Anthony DeMarco, Senior Contributor for Forbes.com, will travel to Europe to cover the TEFAF Maastricht art and antique fair. His first of two pre-show reports, dated February 23, highlights four new contemporary jewelry artists at the fair: Margot McKinney, Santi, Buccellati, and Feng J. “They will join fair regulars: Hemmerle, Otto Jakob, Anna Hu, Forms, and Van Cleef & Arpels,” reports DeMarco.
Tony also provides an inside look at his personal experience with two high jewelry artists who will not be exhibiting this year: Indian high jeweler, Bhagat, and Swiss high jeweler, Boghossian.
We have introductions to DeMarco’s two pre-show reports, as we found them both to be enjoyable and gem-news worthy.
Pre-Fair Report: Four High Jewelers Will Make Their Debuts At TEFAF Maastricht
2025 TEFAF Maastricht notes 260 galleries and artists, including the handful of jewelers. TEFAF, The European Fine Arts Fair Maastricht (its full name), runs from March 15–20.
While the fair is more about fine art and classical paintings by the masters, there is a small group of specialty jewelers and antique dealers who have notable contemporary as well as important signed estate works. DeMarco covers the European Fair, which is a much larger fair than its New York edition.
TEFAF Maastricht Newcomers
As we mentioned in the preview above, DeMarco writes about four new exhibitors to the fair in his first pre-show report. One of these “newcomers” is Margot McKinney, whose necklace certainly caught our attention. As DeMarco describes, McKinney creates “big, bold and classic gem-centric jewels for her well-heeled and well-connected private clients.” We can easily point to necklace’s large South Seas Baroque Pearls, but it would be a guess to label the eight very large blue-green cushion cut colored gems. As DeMarco tells us, pre-show “details are almost non-existent.” (The necklace is called the Marina, so one would expect the gems to be aquamarine. – gr)
Next is Santi Jewels. New to the fair – yes – but not new to the industry, as these jewelers are in their tenth generation. While they are expected to bring older Indian style to the fair, they will also be bringing contemporary pieces with Indian inspiration. Case in point, the emerald pyramid ring seen here.
Established TEFAF Jewelers
Munich based Hemmerle is a long-time TEFAF exhibitor, according to DeMarco. Known for unique designs, exceptional gems and handcraftsmanship, Hemmerle is a standout. The earrings seen above are just one small example, made with matching natural drop pearls, matching fancy brown diamond briolettes, with copper pinecones to match.
Other standouts will be Otto Jakob – German goldsmith, Anna Hu – Taiwanese high jewelry artist, Hong Kong based Forms, and French jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels.
In the estate side of the fair, “eight dealers and galleries are listed by TEFAF as specializing in jewelry.” However, as DeMarco notes, TEFAF will have antique and estate dealers who will also have a few jewels on display. One of the eight antique and estate houses that DeMarco lists, A La Vieille Russie, New York, specializes in Fabergé. (Brooch seen here.)
English, circa 1890. Each sheaf can be worn separately.
On offer from A La Vieille Russie
alvr.com
Wartski, another important estate house, was founded in North Wales. They too have Fabergé in their collections as well as Castellani, Giuliano, Boucheron, Rene Lalique, Van Cleef & Arpels, just to name a few. The Fabergé chrysoprase brooch set in gold with diamonds with royal provenance, is one from Wartski.
DeMarco will introduce you to more antique and estate houses, those of S.J. Phillips, Somlo, Marjan Sterk, Epoque Fine Jewels, and VKD Jewelry.
RGNR: Forbes.com allows four free reads, and then you must subscribe.
Tap here to read Anthony DeMarco’s first of two pre-fair reports in Forbes.com
Tap here to read Anthony DeMarco’s second pre-fair report in Forbes.com
