The numbers reached from Christie’s Geneva auction during Luxury Week were impressive to say the least. Beyond the headline-grabbing sale of “The Ocean Dream” — the amazing 5.50-carat Fancy Vivid Blue-Green diamond that brought more than CHF 13.5 million — this auction delivered something gem lovers like us rarely get to see all in one catalogue: enormous unheated sapphires, exceptional natural pearls, important historic Cartier creations, and genuinely rare color.
The sapphire section alone was astonishing. And the Natural Pearls were outstanding!
There was a 76.39-carat unheated cabochon sapphire, mounted by Harry Winston, surrounded by a beautiful pear shape diamond skirt, that sold for CHF 1.768 million. There was a 22.28-carat unheated Kashmir sapphire ring by Chaumet that reached CHF 2.744 million. And a Bvlgari 9.82-carat Kashmir sapphire that crossed CHF 1.36 million.
There was JAR, Hemmerle, and several Burmese sapphire pieces that performed very well, reminding us that top unheated sapphires continue to command extraordinary attention at the highest end of the market.
Then came the natural pearls.
There was this incredible double-strand natural pearl necklace (below) containing 91 matched saltwater pearls that realized CHF 4.147 million, while Cartier’s Belle Époque natural pearl “Cravate” necklace featuring 536 natural pearls sold for CHF 838,200! Even individual natural pearl jewels and pearl-centered Bhagat designs climbed well beyond estimates — including a 15 mm natural button pearl ring that sold for CHF 304,800 — reinforcing just how difficult truly fine natural pearls remain to source today.
Add in important Art Deco Cartier jewels, a vivid 8.56-carat orange-yellow diamond ring, a major paraíba tourmaline, historic emerald carvings, and this Christie’s Geneva auction became a showcase of rarity across nearly every category of fine jewelry.
Ocean Dream may have dominated the headlines, but the sapphires and natural pearls ensured this was far more than a one-lot auction.
All images courtesy of Christie’s
IMPORTANT HARRY WINSTON SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: CHF 600,000 – CHF 1,100,000
Price realised: CHF 1,768,000
IMPORTANT HARRY WINSTON SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Here we have an eye-catching 76.39-carat oval-shaped cabochon sapphire, surrounded by 1-carat pear-shaped diamonds (of 1.15, 1.12, 1.12, 1.10, 1.10, 1.09, 1.07, 1.07 and 1.05 carats), round diamonds, in platinum.
Accompanied by Gübelin, 2026, report no. 26020100: 76.39 carats, Burma (Myanmar), no indications of heating, with Information Sheet on Unheated sapphires and Appendix attesting the exceptional rarity and quality.
Also accompanied by a report from SSEF, 2026, report no. 152080: 76.398 carats, Ceylon (Sri Lanka), no indications of heating,
and 10 GIA reports, 2007-2010: from 1.15 to 1.05 carats, D to F colour Internally Flawless to VS1 clarity.
NATURAL PEARL, RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Estimate: CHF 80,000 – CHF 120,000
Price realised: CHF 228,600
NATURAL PEARL, RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
12 mm down to 5.5 mm strand of natural pearls.
They couldn’t make it 50?
One strand of 49 natural pearls measuring approximately from 12.30 to 5.50 mm, large ruby cabochon, old-cut diamonds, in 18k red gold and platinum.
Accompanied by an SSEF, 2026, report no. 153881: 49 natural pearls, saltwater and 1 ruby, Burma (Myanmar), no indications of heating
CARTIER BELLE ÉPOQUE NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND ‘CRAVATE’ NECKLACE
Estimate: CHF 260,000 – CHF 480,000
Price realised: CHF 838,200
CARTIER BELLE ÉPOQUE NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND ‘CRAVATE’ NECKLACE
Over 500 natural pearls!
536 round to oval and button-shaped natural pearls ranging approximately from 4.30 to 3.85 mm, old-cut diamonds, platinum (French marks), 1910, signed Cartier, Paris, maker’s mark (Henri Droguet)
SSEF, 2026, report no. 153364: 536 natural pearls, saltwater
Cartier, 2007: Certificate of Authenticity no. GE2007-140
BHAGAT PEARL, SEED PEARL AND DIAMOND EARRINGS
Estimate: CHF 32,000 – CHF 55,000
Price realised: CHF 304,800
BHAGAT PEARL, SEED PEARL AND DIAMOND EARRINGS
Pearls and big oval shaped rose cut diamonds…. Wow! Just a great design. Pearls have not been tested, and we believe we saw a faceted girdle on one of the rose cuts. We should consider the possibility of a modern pair of earrings.
Pearls and seed pearls, rose-cut and round diamonds, platinum, signed Bhagat.
Size/Dimensions: 4.1 cm high
Please note that the pearls have not been tested for natural origin.
BHAGAT NATURAL PEARL, PEARL AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: CHF 160,000 – CHF 200,000
Price realised: CHF 304,800
BHAGAT NATURAL PEARL, PEARL AND DIAMOND RING
Here we have a good size (15 mm) natural button pearl as the central gem in an all pearl ring, accented by some fairly large faceted diamond beads – that’s impressive!
Button-shaped natural pearl measuring approximately 14.90 – 15.21 x 11.06 mm, pearls, facetted diamond beads and round diamonds, platinum, unsigned
SSEF, 2012, report no. 64217: 17.680 carats, natural pearl, saltwater
Bhagat: copy of descriptive letter
COLOURED SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: CHF 220,000 – CHF 280,000
Price realised: CHF 304,800
COLOURED SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
GREAT Color! Burmese no heat! Sweet!
Octagonal-shaped pink sapphire of 13.47 carats, trapezoid step-cut diamonds of 0.55 and 0.53 carat, round diamonds, 18k white gold
Gübelin, 2025, report no. 25031029: 13.47 carats, Burma (Myanmar), no indications of heating
AGL, 2025, report no. 8093230: 13.47 carats, Burma (Myanmar), no gemological evidence of heat
GIA, 2021, report no. 6405765128: 0.55 carat, F colour, VS2 clarity, excellent polish, faint fluorescence
GIA, 2021, report no. 6405769910: 0.53 carat, F colour, VS1 clarity, excellent polish
JAR SAPPHIRE RING
Estimate: CHF 100,000 – CHF 160,000
Price realised: CHF 622,300
JAR SAPPHIRE RING
It’s JAR – What’s not to like?
Octagonal-shaped sapphire of 15.08 carats, round sapphires, gold plated platinum (French mark), signed JAR, Paris, JAR case
SSEF, 2026, report no. 153361: Burma (Myanmar), no indications of heating
Gübelin, 2013, report no. 13055036: 15.08 carats, Burma (Myanmar), no indications of heating, with Information Sheet on Unheated sapphires
RARE CARTIER ART DECO EMERALD, ONYX AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Estimate: CHF 210,000 – CHF 310,000
Price realised: CHF 495,300
RARE CARTIER ART DECO EMERALD, ONYX AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Elegant, and important.
Hexagonal-shaped cabochon emerald drop carved to the front and reverse with Indian floral motifs, carved and polished emerald beads and cabochons, onyx beads and plaques, old and rose-cut diamonds, pendant detachable, 1920s, signed Cartier, Londres, numbered
EARLY 20TH CENTURY COLOURED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: CHF 200,000 – CHF 300,000
Price realised: CHF 1,737,500
EARLY 20TH CENTURY COLOURED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING
An 8-carat Fancy Vivid. This is rare – and beautiful. Remember, “Orange-Yellow” means that there is approximately 50% of each hue. It’s an
Fancy vivid orange-yellow cushion brilliant-cut diamond of 8.56 carats, old, single-cut and round diamonds, platinum, 1910s
GIA, 2026, report no. 5231843749: 8.56 carats, Fancy Vivid Orange-Yellow, natural colour, VS2 clarity
HEMMERLE SAPPHIRE RING
Estimate: CHF 240,000 – CHF 400,000
Price realised: CHF 482,600
HEMMERLE SAPPHIRE RING
Just another big beautiful fabulous 6-carat unheated Kashmir sapphire.
Cushion-shaped sapphire of 6.61 carats, 18k white gold, signed Hemmerle, maker’s mark, Hemmerle case
SSEF, 2026, report no. 153873: Kashmir, no indications of heating
SSEF, 2021, report no. 115897: 6.611 carats, Kashmir, no indications of heating
TABBAH TOURMALINE AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: CHF 160,000 – CHF 240,000
Price realised: CHF 698,500
TABBAH TOURMALINE AND DIAMOND RING
That looks like Windex to me! Fabulous color!
Triangular-shaped paraíba tourmaline of 13.44 carats, calibré-cut diamonds, 18k white gold, signed Tabbah, maker’s mark, numbered
SSEF, 2020, report no. 113743: 13.446 carats, paraíba tourmaline, Mozambique, treatment undetermined, stable colour, with Appendix Letter underlining the exceptional qualities of this paraíba tourmaline
BULGARI SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: CHF 400,000 – CHF 600,000
Price realised: CHF 1,365,250
BULGARI SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Kashmir, no heat, almost 10 carats, and beautifully cut. WOW.
Octagonal-shaped sapphire of 9.82 carats, tapered baguette-cut diamonds, platinum, signed Bulgari
SSEF, 2026, report no. 154112: 9.822 carats, Kashmir, no indications of heating, Royal Blue, with Appendix Letter underlining the exceptional quality of this sapphire
Gübelin, 2026, report no. 26040063: 9.82 carats, Kashmir, no indications of heating, Royal Blue, with Information Sheet on Unheated sapphires and Appendix attesting to the rarity of this sapphire
CARTIER ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR
Estimate: CHF 240,000 – CHF 400,000
Price realised: CHF 444,500
CARTIER ART DECO EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR
Another magnificent pearl and carved emerald necklace from Cartier. These are special!
Hexagonal carved emerald depicting a Hindu scene with Shiva and Parvati, carved emerald beads and emerald beads, round pearls, old and baguette-cut diamonds, platinum, pendant detachable, 1925, necklace and pendant signed Cartier
Cartier, 2000: Certificate of Authenticity no. GE2000-45
Retrospective Louis Cartier, One Houndred & One Years of the Jeweler’s Art, Cartier. Inc., New York, 1976, p. 10, ill. 4
Retrospective Louis Cartier, Masterworks of Art Deco, Cartier, Incorporated, 1982, ill. 80
H. Nadelhoffer, Cartier Jewellers Extraordinary, Thames and Hudson, London, 1984, p. 110
J. Rudoe, Cartier 1900 – 1939, British Museum Press, London, 1997, pp. Contents and 180, ill. 101
EXCEPTIONAL NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Estimate: CHF 800,000 – CHF 1,200,000
Price realised: CHF 4,147,000
EXCEPTIONAL NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Exceptional? I’d say so… 91 natural pearls, with the centers measuring approximately 12 almost 13 mm!
Two strands of graduated natural pearls ranging approximately from 12.70 to 7.40 mm, old and baguette-cut diamonds, 14k white gold, clasp from circa 1920
SSEF, 2026, report no. 153363: 91 natural pearls, saltwater, and 1 natural pearl, freshwater, with Appendix letter attesting to the rare and exceptional matching qualities of these pearls
CHAUMET SAPPHIRE RING
Estimate: CHF 1,600,000 – CHF 2,000,000
Price realised: CHF 2,744,000
CHAUMET SAPPHIRE RING
Okay – Kashmir, no heat, and 22 carats!! Fantastic!
Cushion-shaped sapphire, platinum, unsigned, maker’s mark (Joseph Chaumet, partially indistinct)
Gübelin, 2026, report no. 26030001: 22.28 carats (as indicated by client), Kashmir, no indications of heating, Royal Blue, with Information Sheet on Unheated sapphires and Appendix stating a rare combination of high qualities
SSEF, 2026, report no.152279: declared weight of 22.28 carats, Kashmir, no indications of heating, with Appendix letter underlining the rare and exceptional qualities of this sapphire
THE OCEAN DREAM SPECTACULAR COLOURED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: CHF 7,000,000 – CHF 10,000,000
Price realised: CHF 13,567,500
THE OCEAN DREAM
SPECTACULAR COLOURED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING
Last but not least – an incredible Fancy Vivid Blue-Green triangular-cut diamond of 5.50 carats, surrounded by fancy-shaped diamonds, set in 18k white gold; with an additional ring mount set with sculpted rock crystal, round diamonds and pink diamonds. Delicious.
GIA, 2026, report no. 12617808: 5.50 carats, Fancy Vivid Blue-Green, natural colour, SI1 clarity, Type Ia, with GIA Monograph and GIA Letter stating this diamond to be the largest Fancy Vivid Blue-Green diamond ever graded by the laboratory
Can’t get enough? Tap here to check out the complete auction results
