This year marked the ninth edition of TEFAF New York at the Park Avenue Armory, May 10-14, 2024. The Roskin Gem News Report covered the show, visiting with a number of fine jewelry exhibitors: Ariadne, FD Gallery, Boghossian, Otto Jakob, and Hemmerle.
TEFAF, the European Fine Art Foundation, is apparently one of the world’s preeminent organizations for fine art, antiques, and design. TEFAF produces two fairs internationally – TEFAF Maastricht, in the Netherlands, and TEFAF New York. New York City is considered by many to have a prestigious and vibrant art market, thus providing the ideal setting for a TEFAF fair outside of Maastricht.
Ariadne
Ariadne, founded in 1972, is an international dealer in ancient art, presenting Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Eurasian, and Byzantine works. According to their promotional materials, Ariadne’s pieces can be found in museums (such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Harvard University Art Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, and the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford) and with private international collectors.
We found it fascinating to find amongst ancient pottery and sculpture, rings and pendants with gem materials, carved cameos and intaglios.
FD Gallery
This was an unexpected treasure corner, filled with wonderful period works from the major jewelry houses. Here is what they say in their promotional materials for the TEFAF NY show, as well as a few images of pieces we thought would be fun for you to see.
“Modern luxury is about something special, one-of-a-kind, rare, coveted. Ours is a collection of exceptional 20th century jewels, comprised of pieces from the most prestigious houses. With a central case dedicated entirely to Cartier of all periods, icons such as the Tutti Frutti, the Panther and a Mystery Clock are represented. Another case is devoted to Van Cleef & Arpels from the Art Deco, Retro and 1970s eras, while a third case houses an exclusive collection from contemporary designers Hemmerle from Munich and Viren Bhagat of Mumbai. Mixed throughout are modern creations by Taffin, JAR and Wallace Chan; rarities by Bulgari, Boivin, Suzanne Belperron, Flato, Tiffany, Verdura and Boucheron; as well as unsigned parures set with fine Colombian emeralds, gem Burmese rubies and rare natural pearls. Complimenting these great jewels is an array of vintage Chanel and Hermes accessories, photographs by Avedon, Lindbergh and Man Ray, prints ranging from Audubon to Keith Haring, furniture by Claude Lalanne, sculptures by Taubert, stacks of first edition books and a multitude of unusual object d’art rich with provenance and history, all carefully collected, curated and displayed in our gallery on 80th street off of Madison Avenue in New York City.”
Designed as a double strand of lapis beads accented with round lapis and diamond accents, terminating in padlock shaped diamond and turquoise set plaques, completed with a diamond and turquoise set closure, mounted in platinum, circa 1935
Boghossian
The Geneva based Boghossian has a history over 150 years of creativity and gemmological expertise, with artistic heritage and innovative Swiss craftsmanship.
The Maison was founded in 1868 at the centre of the Silk Road. Over generations, the family travelled from East to West, handing down an innate eye for exceptional gemstones and flair for craftsmanship.
“The family is known for reimagining ancient and developing new techniques. Revolutionary creations such as the Art of Inlay, the Kissing technique and the patented Merveilles design has made the Boghossian name synonymous with originality of design.”
Otto Jakob
Otto Jakob is a self taught jeweler. “Inspired by the magic and artistic power of Etruscan, Celtic and Hellenic masterpieces, he learned their complex techniques using treatises by Pliny and Cellini. Between 1977 and 1980 he studied painting with Georg Baselitz,” a German painter, printmaker, and sculptor. “Since 1980, Jakob he has devoted himself exclusively to the creation of jewelry.”
“The earliest collectors of his work were important artists and art dealers. His works are available exclusively at the atelier in Karlsruhe, Germany, at TEFAF Maastricht, and TEFAF New York.”
We saw a Renaissance theme using rough crystals, in traditional motifs, with exceptional metalwork. The combinations of gems, metals work, and design were a real standout at the show.
Hemmerle
“Founded in 1893, Hemmerle is a fourth-generation family-run jeweller known for its one-of-a-kind creations characterised by innovative material combinations and a dedication to craftsmanship and quality. Each jewel is layered with cultural references and is as original as a work of art.”
What we saw at TEFAF NY were cases of beautifully crafted, great use of metals, well-designed jewels, set with fabulous colored gems. We are confident that you will see the same!
We will be back next year to cover the show once again.
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