The mid-June New York Fine Watches auction at Sotheby’s featured several gem-set timepieces that caught our attention, from a demantoid-encrusted brooch watch, an ultra-thin sapphire-and-diamond pendant watch, to a diamond-set skeleton watch.
Here’s our quick peek at a watch catalogue worth your time.
Cartier
Reference 3081 Libre Froissée | A white gold and diamond-set asymmetric wristwatch, Circa 2009
Estimate: 15,000 – 25,000 USD
Lot Sold: 21,760 USD
More for design than for time, here is Cartier’s Libre Froissée, produced in 18 karat white gold and diamonds, is deco-inspired architecture, showcasing Cartier’s history of fine craftsmanship and design.
Caliber: cal. 059 quartz, 5 jewels
Case: 18k white gold and diamond-set, case back secured by five screws
All in all, the diamond carat weight is approximately 4.5 carats. Quality ranges from F-G in color, and VVS-VS in clarity.
Patek Philippe
Retailed by Tiffany & Co., this circa 1902 demantoid and diamond set yellow gold brooch watch, really embraces the period.
Estimate: 7,000 – 14,000 USD
Lot Sold: 28,160 USD
Dial: white enamel
Case: yellow gold, with the front lid, bezel, and bow set with demantoid garnets. The case back is further set with demantoid garnets as well as diamonds. The watch is accompanied by a yellow gold fob brooch also set with demantoid garnets, featuring platinum foliate work set with diamonds and detailed with applied green enamel.
Piaget
A white gold, diamond, and sapphire-set open-faced keyless pendant watch, Circa 1980
Estimate: 15,000 – 30,000 USD
Did not sell – but it’s still impressive.
Caliber: cal. 9P mechanical, 18 jewels
Case: 18k white gold, diamond, and sapphire-set case
Size: 41 mm diameter
Piaget
Reference 9385 A6 | An 18 karat white gold and diamond-set bracelet watch with opal dial, Circa 1980
Estimate: 7,000 – 11,000 USD
Lot Sold: 16,640 USD
Dial: opal
Caliber: cal.9P1 mechanical, 18 jewels
Size: 32mm x 29mm
Dial: “The dial with hairlines and minor signs of age present throughout.” – Yes, the opal shows crazing.
The 44 marquise shape diamonds on the bezel (22 inside, 22 outside) “are intact and weigh approximately 1.76 cts., and are approximately F-G in color and VVS-VS in clarity.”
Chopard
An 18 karat white gold bracelet watch with mother-of-pearl and diamond dial, Circa 1995
Estimate: 8,000 – 16,000 USD
Lot Sold: 10,240 USD
Dial: diamond-set white and abalone mother-of-pearl
Caliber: mechanical, 17 jewels
Size: 41mm x 24mm
Gérald Genta
Reference G2099 | An 18 karat white gold and diamond-set skeletonized wristwatch, Circa 1990
Estimated: 8,000 – 16,000 USD
Lot Sold: 12,800 USD
Dial: skeletonized, diamond-set
Caliber: cal. 1007 mechanical, jeweled
Size: 35 mm diameter
The diamonds on the case surrounding the dial weigh approximately 0.62 cts., and are approximately F-G in color and VVS-VS in clarity.
The skeletonized movement is displayed beneath a transparent dial plate set with diamonds, almost certainly fashioned from synthetic sapphire, a material favored in high-end Swiss watchmaking for its exceptional hardness and clarity. The diamonds remain intact and weigh approximately 0.12 cts., and are approximately F-G in color and VVS-VS in clarity.
Tap here to review the entire sale catalog and see some beautiful gem-set timepieces.
