Roskin Gem News Report

Phillips New York Jewels

So many interesting period pieces and gem materials in this auction.

From a Belperron cuff to Boivin brooches and cuff, to a David Webb necklace, a Spaulding cuff, to “black onyx,” rock crystal, wood, and even a color shift sapphire!

If you are looking for a fun gemological read today, this is it.

René Boivin
Magnificent Art Deco Sapphire and Diamond Brooch ‘Starfish’

René Boivin
Magnificent Art Deco Sapphire and Diamond Brooch ‘Starfish’

1938
Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire, surrounded by old-, circular- and single-cut diamond-set rays accented by circular-cut sapphires and blue enamel, mounted in platinum and 18K white gold, fold-down double pin stems each with sweater hook, length approximately 11/16 inches, with French assay mark and maker’s mark.
Accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity from René Boivin and a Letter of Expertise from Jean-Norbert Salit.
Accompanied by AGL report no. 1130767 stating that the main sapphire is of Ceylon origin with no gemological evidence of heat or clarity enhancement.
Also accompanied by SSEF report no. 127799, stating that the main sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indication of heating; together with an additional gemological report.
Estimate
$500,000 – 800,000 
SOLD FOR $571,500

Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Ring

Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Ring

Set with a rectangular step-cut emerald, flanked by old-cut diamonds, within a frame of single- and circular-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, size 5.
Accompanied by AGL report no. 1127494, stating the emerald is of Colombian origin, with minor traditional clarity enhancement.
Estimate
$30,000 – 50,000 
SOLD FOR $114,300

Belperron Citrine Cuff

Suzanne Belperron
Citrine Cuff Bracelet, “Tranche”

Suzanne Belperron Cuff with Citrine

1940
The cuff set with step-cut citrines, mounted in 18K yellow gold, inner circumference approximately 5 3/4 inches, with French assay mark and partial maker’s mark.

Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Olivier Baroin.

Estimate
$20,000 – 30,000
SOLD FOR $53,340

Aldo Cipullo
Onyx & Gold Necklace

Aldo Cipullo
Onyx and Gold Necklace

Late 1970s
Set with circular onyx discs, alternating with gold disc links, mounted in 18K yellow gold, length approximately 21 1/4 inches, signed Aldo Cipullo.

Estimate
$20,000 – 30,000
SOLD FOR $57,150

Aldo Cipullo
Onxy and L:apis Lazuli Necklace

Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Onyx and Lapis Lazuli Necklace

1970s
Set with alternating black circular onyx rings and pyramidal lapis lazuli, mounted in 18K yellow gold, length approximately 21 1/2 inches, signed Cartier, A. Cipullo.

Estimate
$20,000 – 30,000 
SOLD FOR $40,640

René Boivin
Art Deco Sapphire Cuff Bracelet

René Boivin
Art Deco Sapphire Cuff Bracelet

Circa 1935
Each terminal set with an oval-cabochon sapphire set within a ribbed arch, mounted in silver, inner circumference approximately 6 1/8 inches, French assay marks.

Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from René Boivin and a letter of expertise from Françoise Cailles stating this cuff was designed by Juliette Moutard.

Estimate
$15,000 – 20,000 
SOLD FOR $82,550

David Webb
Rock Crystal and Diamond Link Necklace

Composed of faceted ellipses linked by brilliant-cut diamond-set loops, mounted in 18K yellow and platinum, length overall approximately 23 inches; without extender, length approximately 17 inches, signed David Webb, and numbered.
Estimate
$15,000 – 25,000 
SOLD FOR $35,560

Color-Change Sapphire Ring

“Color-Change Sapphire Ring”*

Set with an oval mixed-cut color-change sapphire weighing 4.39 carats, mounted in platinum and 18K yellow gold, size 6.

Accompanied by AGL report no. 1132131, stating that the color-change** sapphire weighing 4.39 carats exhibits color shift from pink to pinkish orange, and does not show gemological evidence of heat; together with two additional gemological reports.

Estimate
$7,000 – 10,000
SOLD FOR $17,780

*None of the three gemological reports label this pink sapphire as “color change,” because the sapphire does not show the classic “color change” property of changing color due to different light sources (incandescent/candle light to fluorescent, as would an alexandrite.)

**AGL did NOT state that this is a color change sapphire, but does note that “this gemstone exhibits a color shift. As a result, the color appearance may vary.” And in the color appearance, AGL notes that the color is Pink to Pinkish Orange.

There are certain sapphires that shift in color, not from under different light sources as you might be thinking, but from long term exposure to ultraviolet light. The color of this sapphire is “relaxed” when it is pink. As it is exposed for long continuous periods of ultraviolet light, it will change/shift to a pinkish orange. After a period of time when the sapphire is no longer being exposed to ultraviolet, it will revert back to its relaxed color of pink. Therefore, it has been labeled as a Pink Sapphire on two reports, and “Fancy Sapphire” with AGL.

Q: Is it a Padparadscha?
Pinkish-orange to orangy-pink sapphires are commonly referred to as Padparadscha – the color of a lotus blossom. If this sapphire were that color in its relaxed state, then it may have been considered as such.

Spaulding & Co.
Modernist Gold Bracelet

Spaulding & Co.
Modernist Gold Bracelet

We like this piece even though it is simply a gold bracelet (no gems), but with obvious artistic flair that commands a sale price of well-over 3 times its high estimated price range. Even without gems, it is a powerful bracelet.

Of tribal influence, with opposing swirl motifs, mounted in 18K yellow gold, inner circumference approximately 6 3/4 inches, signed Spaulding & Co.
Estimate
$5,000 – 7,000 •
SOLD FOR $25,400

René Boivin
Wood Suite, ‘Osselet’

René Boivin
Wood Suite, ‘Osselet’

Comprising a necklace, bracelet, and a pair of ear clips, each composed of knucklebone-shaped links
of alternating gold and wood, mounted in 18K yellow gold, length of necklace
approximately 27 1/2 inches, length of bracelet approximately 7 3/4 inches,
ear clips with clip back fittings, each with French assay marks and maker’s marks for Robert Davière,
Each accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from René Boivin and a letter of expertise from François Cailles.
Estimate
$18,000 – 26,000 
SOLD FOR $66,040

To see the entire auction offering and the results, tap here.

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