Hong Kong Important Jewels
[This feature has been updated: January 26, 2023]
The February 2023 auction, set to take place on February 3rd, with over 130 lots, has quite a few very interesting gem-set jewels we will highlight here.
This auction marks Sotheby’s 50th anniversary in Asia, and features jewels from renowned jewelry houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bvlgari, Buccellati and others.
But what has our attention are the two Mozambican cuprian tourmalines, “Paraiba-type,” with fabulous color. However, one is clarity enhanced, and the other is heat treated (color enhanced). There are two Kashmir sapphires that look great, with no heat reports. But there’s a third sapphire, that the lab identified as “basaltic.”
Michael Krzemnicki, Director of the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute, tells us that this particular sapphire is not from Kashmir. “All Kashmir sapphires (from the classical source in the Zanskar range, India) are formed by metamorphic processes, same as sapphires from Sri Lanka and most material from Madagascar (e.g. Ilakaka, Andranondambo). Based on our analyses, this sapphire is evidently from a basaltic deposit, so originating from an alkali-basalt, for example from South-East Asia (Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam), Madagascar (e.g. Diego Suarez in the north), East Africa (e.g. Rwanda, Ethiopia…), or many other sources producing similar sapphires. As it is our (and many other labs) standard, in case of basaltic sapphires, we cannot scientifically give a geographic location, as these sapphires are very similar in analytical properties and inclusion features wherever they are found in the world.”
So, in this case, for that square emerald cut basaltic sapphire, an origin from Kashmir or Sri Lanka can definitively be eliminated.
Speaking of the origin matter, it should NOT matter where the ruby seen here came from. It is outstanding! It does have a gemological report stating its origin is Tajikistan. That should not matter as the color is screaming RED! There’s an amazing square emerald cut Colombian emerald, great color, eye clean, and no enhancement! And last but not least, the matching Jadeite bangles, estimated at a half million US dollars!
First on our list for you, the Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., ‘Bird on a Rock’ Kunzite, Diamond and Pink Sapphire Brooch.
Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
‘Bird on a Rock’ Kunzite, Diamond and Pink Sapphire Brooch | Schlumberger ‘Bird on a Rock’
Very nice color, beautiful cutting, Kunzite (named after Tiffany & Co.’s early 20th century gemologist George Kunz).
Estimated at approx. $10,000 – $25,000USD.
Catalogue Estimate: 90,000 – 180,000 HKD
Designed as a parrot with circular-cut pink sapphire eyes and brilliant-cut diamond-set plumes perched on an oval kunzite, mounted in 18 karat yellow gold, signed Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger Ltd, numbered, pouch stamped Tiffany & Co.
Cartier
Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 2.08 carats, decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, size 6, signed Cartier.
Estimate:
450,000 – 650,000 HKD
$58,000 – $83,000 USD
Accompanied by GIA report no. 2225165861, dated 2 December 2021 stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. For further details, please refer to the report. Signed Cartier London. Sapphire is medium deep blue of strong saturation, with typical natural inclusions, colour zoning, nicks and abrasions under 10x magnification. Diamonds are bright and lively. Signs of wear to metal consistent with use. Overall in very good condition.
Ruby & Diamond Ring
Set with a step-cut ruby weighing 3.12 carat, to the shoulders decorated with marquise-shaped diamonds, mounted in 18 karat white and yellow gold, size 6½.
Estimate:
450,000 – 650,000 HKD
$58,000 – $83,000 USD
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 22111096, dated 29 November 2022, stating that the ruby is of Tajikistan origin, with no indications of heating.
Faidee | Emerald & Diamond Ring
Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 4.93 carats, flanked by two square emerald-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold, size 6, signed Faidee, maker’s mark.
Estimate:
1,600,000 – 2,000,000 HKD
$205,000 – $255,000 USD
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 123208, dated 9 June 2022, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity modification. Also accompanied by Gübelin report no. 22072001, dated 1 July 2022, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement.
Paraiba-Type tourmaline & diamond pendant necklace, necjklace by Van Cleef & Arples
Set with an oval Paraíba-type tourmaline weighing 22.43 carats, to the pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamond surround, suspended from a detachable brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamond necklace, mounted in platinum, length approximately 400mm, necklace signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, French assay mark, case stamped Van Cleef & Arpels.
Estimate:
2,800,000 – 3,500,000 HKD
$358,000 – $447,000 USD
Accompanied by GRS report no. GRS2023-018349, dated 1 January 2023, stating that the tourmaline is of Mozambican origin, greenish-blue colour (GRS-type “Paraiba”-colour), with indication of clarity enhancement. Please refer to the report for further details. Necklace signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered M40634, with French assay mark for platinum. Pedant metal tested as platinum. Paraíba-type tourmaline is of medium neon blue colour and medium saturation, under 10x magnification, with some typical inclusions, a few surface reaching. Diamonds are bright and lively, estimated to weigh approximately 17.00 carats in total, on average about G – H colour, VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Overall in very good condition. Accompanied by a case stamped Van Cleef & Arpels.
Paraíba-type Tourmaline and Diamond Ring
Set with a cushion-shaped Paraíba-type tourmaline weighing 11.45 carats, decorated with brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in 18 karat white gold, size 6¼.
Estimate:
600,000 – 800,000 HKD
$77,000 – $102,000 USD
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 126087, dated 9 December 2022, stating that the Paraíba-type tourmaline is of Mozambican origin, with indications of heating. Please refer to the report for further details. Stamped 750 for 18 karat white gold, 11.45 referring to the weight of the Paraíba-type tourmaline. Paraíba-type tourmaline is of neon blue colour and medium strong saturation, under 10x magnification, with a few minor inclusions, a few surface reaching. Diamonds are bright and lively, estimated to weigh approximately 1.80 carat in total, on average about G – H colour, VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Overall in very good condition.
Bvlgari
Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Estimate:
2,400,000 – 3,500,000 HKD
$307,000 – $447,000 USD
Accompanied by two copies of SSEF and Gübelin reports no. 64804, dated 5 September 2012 and no. 12090077, dated 11 September 2012 respectively, both stating that the sapphire is of Kashimir origin, with no indications of heating. For further details, please refer to the copies of reports. Signed Bvlgari. Stamped PT950 for platinum. Sapphire is medium deep blue of strong saturation, with few typical natural inclusions, abrasions, nicks and chips as examined under 10x magnification. Diamonds are bright and lively. Signs of wear to metal consistent with use. Overall in very good condition.
Wallace Chan
Ruby and Diamond Ring
Set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 3.88 carats decorated with brilliant-cut and oval diamonds, highlighted with brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow tint, mounted in titanium, size 5½, signed Wallace Chan.
Estimate:
2,000,000 – 3,000,000 HKD
$255,000 – $383,000 USD
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 9612114, dated 18 December 1996, stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of thermal treatment. Please note that the report is more than (20) years old and might require an update.
Sapphire & Diamond Ring
Set with a step-cut sapphire weighing 7.21 carats, decorated with shield-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in 18 karat white gold, size 6.
Estimate:
200,000 – 300,000 HKD
$26,000 – $38,000 USD
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 125546, dated 9 November 2022, stating that the sapphire is of basaltic deposit, with no indications of heating.
Pair of Jadeite Bangles
Each jadeite bangle of intense green colour and very good translucency, with flattened inner rim.
Inner diameter and thickness approximately 57.25 x 14.51mm and 57.11 x 14.46mm.
Estimate:
3,000,000 – 5,000,000 HKD
$383,000 – $639,000 USD
Accompanied by two Hong Kong Jade and Stone Laboratory certificates no. KJ 20890 and KJ 20891, both dated 26 February 2007, each stating that the jadeite is natural, known in the trade as “A Jade”. Please refer to the certificates for further details. Jadeite bangles of intense green colour, very good to good translucency, with some white patches, one with two yellowish streaks, surface reaching, and a few minor tiny black spots. Overall in very good condition.
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