Rubellite’s Big Moment in High Jewellery: Drop Everything
Rubellites are riding high (and dropping big) as large clean rubies (and spinels for that matter) have become impossible to acquire at a reasonable/affordable price.
In fact, taking a look at the GemGuide’s latest pricing guide for colored stones (gemguide.com), rubellites are approximately 7 to 10 times less than equivalent spinels, which makes rubellites all the more enticing for the big important jewelry houses. [Note: CNN’s Sarah Royce-Greensill writes, posted November 11, in her well-written and well-sourced feature story, “Move over diamonds, these little known gemstones are heating up,” referring to spinels, is missing the more affordability point.]
The big houses are taking advantage of red tourmalines and making sure the holidays stay red – and green – this season.
And let’s not forget the numerous other affordable gem materials. For the thoughtful designers, there are plenty of affordable gem materials that have the potential to be a part of High Jewelry – we simply need to be reminded that it’s always about color and design, and not necessarily about rarity and monetary value. Mixing in chrysoprase and black onyx cabochons, Cartier, in its Nature Sauvage collection, is doing their best to ignore the [low] cost, and focus solely on beauty and form. Check out Bvlgari’s Lotus necklace below with their turquoise and amethyst cabochons!
Designers get it. They’ve always understood it… Now, go back and check out the antique and estate pieces from important jewelry houses. You will find rock crystal, jet and agate, wood, and bone, and so much more.
Now, take a look at these High Jewelry designs featuring rubellites!
CARTIER:
Chryséis
Butterflies have always been one of Cartier’s favorite insects.
For this necklace, the black-and-white patterns of their wings are used by the jewelers to capture the essence of the insect. The black and white also contrasts with the freshness of the chalcedony beads. Meanwhile, the pendant is set off by a 63.76-carat rubellite in a dazzling harmony of rich color. The overall effect is a vibrant, lyrical palette with naturalist undertones, which revisits the emblematic red-green-black trio that is symbolic of the Maison.
Panthère Chatoyante
An emblematic animal for Cartier since 1914, the panther gives this necklace powerful vigor. With its remarkably fine and precise design, the feline stares back at us with its emerald gaze, enhanced by touches of black lacquer. The necklace unfolds in an array of vivid colors, featuring a composition of rubellites, chrysoprases and emeralds. Enhanced with diamonds and onyx that evoke the coat of a panther, the stones create an intense, rhythmic performance.
Mochelys: The ingenious and formal beauty
Combining surprise and creativity, a turtle is concealed within a seemingly entirely abstract necklace, enhancing an imposing 71.90 carat rubellite. Under the rubellite, hidden in a pattern of diamond and rubellite scales, is a turtle that can be transformed into a brooch. An appearance made possible by an ingenious system which allows two tiny clips to be folded down.
Koaga
You can’t help but feel its shining presence. Its stripes, profile, ears, and face are all enhanced by the precise stylized lines of the design. The Zebra… holding an emerald cut diamond and a 6.25 carat rubellite pear shape drop. And matching earrings – of course.
BVLGARI:
The Bvlgari Lotus Cabochon Necklace
Amid vibrant cabochon gems and bold geometries, a timeless symbol of rebirth emerges. An avant-garde collar inspired by haute couture dances with organic elegance. Impeccably set, each stone finds its place in an elegant fusion of tradition and innovation that sings of vitality and joyful energy. Rubellites, amethysts, and turquoise, along with accent diamonds.
TIFFANY & CO.:
Wings of Fire
Part of the Phoenix Collection, evoking the wing-flame motifs of Jean Schlumberger’s Phoenix clip from 1947, these earrings in platinum and 18k yellow gold showcase two fiery rubellites of over 12 total carats. The motif is comprised of unenhanced Umba sapphires and diamonds.
The Phoenix Necklace
Crafted over a span of 1400 hours, and set with 17 cushion cut rubellites of over 73 total carats, with 590 round unenhanced Umba sapphires of over 46 carats, and 2171 round brilliant cut diamonds of over 51 carats…
HARRY WINSTON:
Seville Necklace
Majestic Escapes by Harry Winston
Channeling the vibrant culture of the Spanish city, the Seville Necklace is an exquisite expression of color and craftsmanship. A striking 9.53 carat cabochon rubellite radiates at the center, while 64 pear-shaped and round rubellites radiate around it. Adding to the richness of this high jewelry piece are morganites, topaz, and diamonds, all set in 18k rose gold and platinum.
Oahu Sunsets Necklace
Okay – we are stretching the definition of rubellite just a bit here, but tourmalines are definitely a key gem material for high jewelry this year! – gr
Inspired by the vibrant hues of a Hawaiian sunset, the Oahu Sunsets Necklace transports the wearer to the island’s shores, where the sky is painted in shades of pink, orange and yellow. At its center, five oval intense pink tourmalines capture the glow of the setting sun, while oval pink tourmalines, oval spessartites, oval yellow topaz, and round brilliant diamonds sparkle like the sun’s final rays dipping below the horizon.
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