Roskin Gem News Report

Heritage: September 28 Fall Fine Jewelry Signature® Auction

This Heritage auction coming up on September 28th is a wonder of gemological wish list items, complete with several Tiffany & Co. treasures, a few classic collectible gems & jewels, as well as unusual labels, country of origins, and gems to watch.

Here are what we found:

Burma Ruby, Diamond, Gold Bracelet

This bracelet is made up of cushions, ovals and round-cut classic no-heat Burma rubies, weighing
a total of approximately 15.15 carats!

That alone should have you making a list of what you want for your birthday.

Complete with approximately 3.50 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds (100+), set in 18k white gold; with yellow gold plate ruby mounts.

AGL Report # 1120268, dated January 13, 2022,
stating Natural Corundum, Ruby, Burma Origin,
No Gemological Evidence of Heat

GRS Report # GRS2021-061557, dated August 4, 2021,
stating Natural Ruby, Burma Origin,
No Indication of Thermal Treatment,

Estimate: $40,000 – $50,000.

“This opulent bracelet showcases the harmonious union of radiant diamonds and exotic crimson red Burma rubies. Set a series of artfully designed and articulated 18k gold links that ensure fluidity and comfort, this statement bracelet is perfect for an extravagant affair or to add a touch of luxury to a casual event. The blood red rubies measure 3.60 mm to 6.00 x 5.00 mm and most display eye-visible natural inclusions (mostly obscured within the color and not too distracting), with some surface reaching inclusions. As noted on both Gemological reports – not every ruby was tested for origin and treatment. The flat length of the bracelet measures 6-3/4 inches (excluding the tongue of the clasp. Completed by a gemstone-set concealed box clasp with an underside latch.”

Tiffany & Co. Tanzanite, Diamond, Platinum Earrings

Drops: Tanzanite briolettes weighing a total of 46.84 carats.
Tiffany of course was instrumental in naming this gem “Tanzanite,” so it is of historical significance that we have enormous faceted briolettes of tanzanite in these Tiffany & Co. earrings.

Gross Weight: 18.00 grams
Dimensions: 2-1/8 inches x 1/2 inch
*Note: Earrings are designed for pierced ears (for someone with very strong ear lobes! Or as we have seen recently on the red carpet, matching lapel pins!)

Tiffany & Co. Retail Replacement Valuation dated December 12, 2013 stating – $85,000

Estimate: $30,000 – $40,000.

“If you are seeking the rare or the unique, look no further! These earrings are very special due to the quality of tanzanite used in the design. The briolettes dramatically change from tanzanite blue to a purple-violet color with the most subtle of movement, such is the pleochroism in these stones. These earrings are accompanied by an official Tiffany & Co. retail replacement valuation and signed Tiffany blue jewelry bag. Each earring has 29170134 inscribed into it as well as PAT No. 6557220 and appropriate Tiffany & Co. markings. The briolettes exhibit minute and non eye-visible nicks to some facet junctions.”

Tiffany & Co.: Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812-1902) founded the firm that bears his name in 1837. The boutique style business retailed stationery, silver, jewelry and objects d’art. With the growth of their jewelry interests, Tiffany soared. The company is credited with revolutionizing the jewelry industry by the invention of the open six-prong diamond setting. By 1907, the son of the founder, Louis Comfort Tiffany, rose to international attention for his profusion of the arts: painting, art glass and jewelry. As Tiffany & Company expanded, they offered select designers the ability to sign their pieces designed for the Tiffany & Co. brand; such as in 1955 Donald Claflin and Jean Schlumberger, in 1967 Angela Cummings, later Elsa Peretti in 1974 and most recently Paloma Picasso in 1980.

Tiffany & Co. Belle Époque Diamond, Platinum, Gold Brooch
Stones: European-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 10.00 carats
Platinum, 14k gold
Gross Weight: 39.80 grams
Dimensions: 2-7/8 inches x 3 inches

Estimate: $15,000 – $20,000.

Condition Report*:Diamonds:
Avg Color: G-H-I
Avg Clarity: VVS
Shape(s): European-cut
Count: 100+

“The delicate, soft and flowing diamond encrusted ribbons are the epitome of femininity in this graceful Tiffany & Co. brooch. The two ribbon ends are articulated and have a gentle swaying motion when worn. Marked “Tiffany & Co.” on pinstem. Mounting tests platinum, pinstem tests 14k, while catch tests 18k. Metal shows stress and evidence of minor gold repairs. Accompanied by original signed Tiffany & Co. box. Circa 1915.”

Lorraine Schwartz Diamond, Colored Diamond, Sapphire, Gold Bracelet
Stones: Full-cut near colorless diamonds weighing a total of approximately 1.45 carats; full-cut yellow diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.40 carat;
rose-cut multi-color sapphires
Metal: 18k white and yellow gold; gold plating
Marked: Lorraine Schwartz
Gross Weight: 79.60 grams
Dimensions: 6-1/4 inches x 3 inches
*Note: Colored diamonds not tested for origin of color

Estimate: $8,000 – $12,000.


“The kaleidoscope of colors in this stunning sapphire and diamond gold mesh bracelet embodies grace, confidence and a sense of refined elegance that would undoubtedly make anyone feel like a true fashion icon! Rose-cut sapphires measuring from 4.00 mm diameter to 10.62 x 7.07 x 2.59 mm. Metal shows minor porosity, 10+ mesh links were observed with stress or breaks which do not affect the overall integrity of the bracelet. The flat length of the bracelet measures 6-1/2 inches (excluding the tongue of the clasp). The bracelet drapes gently around the wrist. Accompanied by signed box.”

This piece was made for its look, and not necessarily for the natural color origin of its gems. Like the jewelry at the turn of the 20th century, the use of gem materials was for their color. Origin had very little to do with the design.

Lorraine Schwartz: The jewelry business has been a part of Schwartz’s family for three generations–she took over in 1989. Her works are sold only at Bergdorf Goodman in New York City, by appointment at her 5th Avenue showroom in Manhattan, and by private commission. She has designed for celebrities such as Beyoncé Knowles, Jennifer Lopez and Cate Blanchett. Kim Kardashian wears a 15-carat diamond engagement ring by Schwartz.

Tiffany & Co. Montana Sapphire, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Brooch

Tiffany & Co. was instrumental in identifying the first Montana sapphires discovered in the late 1800s. They would use Montana sapphires throughout the first two decades of the 20th century, helping to establish the reputation of Montana sapphires as high-quality gemstones. This bar pin is significant in that it represents Tiffany history in the use of North American gems, specifically Montana sapphire.

“Tiffany & Co. historically uses only the finest and most sought after gems in its jewelry. Its no surprise this Tiffany & Co. brooch features the exceptional and historically famous USA gemstone, Montana sapphire. The primary setting of this brooch is comprised of platinum while the pinstem and catch on the reverse consists of 14k gold. The sapphires are accompanied by a report from London based lab Gemological Certification Services.”

Stones: Round-shaped sapphires weighing a total of approximately 2.00 carats;
Swiss and transitional-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.25 carat
Metal: Platinum, 14k gold
Marked: Tiffany & Co. 2547
Gross Weight: 4.70 grams
Dimensions: 2-1/4 x 1/4 inches

GCS London Report #5783-2677, dated April 18, 2023, stating Natural Corundum, Montana Origin
No Indications of Heating

Estimate: $7,000 – $9,000.

What is a Swiss cut diamond?

The term “Transitional Cut” is usually reserved for those diamonds fashioned in between the Old European style and the modern round brilliant style. It is transitioning from one style to the other. Today’s labs use the term “Circular Brilliant” which seems to be a little more descriptive of its shape.

David Webb Omphacite Jade, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring
Stones: Carved omphacite jade; single and full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.50 carat
Metal: Platinum, 18k gold
Marked: for David Webb

GIA Report # 5222396807, dated April 19, 2022,
stating Omphacite Jade, Natural Color,
No Indications of Treatment

LMHC – Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee

Jadeite is a pyroxene mineral and forms solid solutions with other pyroxene members such as augite and diopside, aegirine, omphacite and kosmochlor. Gem quality called as ‘jadeite jade’ is not a single crystal but a rock consisting of aggregated fibrous or granular crystals of jadeite and considerable amount of various minerals. Its colour commonly ranges from white through pale green to deep green but can also be blue-green, dark green to black, and other rare colours of pink, lavender varieties. Mineralogically jadeite has the ideal chemical formula NaAlSi2O6.

Omphacite is a member of the pyroxene group with a chemical formula of (Na, Ca) (Al, Mg, Fe) Si2O6. Gem quality
omphacite displays pale green, deep green, black or nearly colourless varieties.

Kosmochlor is a green chromium and sodium rich pyroxene with the chemical formula NaCrSi2O6.
Pyroxenes have a solid solution reaction and each coexists or aggregates to make up a rock.

For the desk gemologist, identification of Omphacite is not possible. As Shane McClure of GIA’s Gem Identification Laboratory in Carlsbad, California wrote about their first encounter of Omphacite, “the stone’s identity was questioned by a staff gemologist, even though it tested gemologically as jadeite (1.66 RI, chrome lines, and a 437 nm line in the desk-model spectroscope).” By using Raman spectroscopy, and X-Ray diffraction as well as EDXRF (X-Ray fluorescence) GIA was able to make a positive identification of Omphacite.

Estimate: $20,000 – $30,000.

“A fascinating and intricately carved omphacite jade; like nephrite jade, both technically fall under the jade category but slight chemical differences in makeup separate the three.”

David Webb: Formed in 1946 by partners David Webb and Nina Silberstein, David Webb Inc. created colorful jewelry recognized for its bold, sculptural design. Webb drew inspiration from the work of Cartier, Seaman Schepps, Faberge and Verdura. His passion for color, texture, enamel, gems and unusual materials brought him to the forefront of jewelry design in the 1950s and 1960s. His fondness for nature and ancient cultures influenced his most famous motifs, stylized animals and flowers. David Webb created contemporary wearable gold sculptures until his death in 1975. He left behind a legacy as one of the pioneers of American jewelry design. David Webb Inc. continues to produce jewelry based upon original artwork and sketches, under new ownership.

Tap here for the full listing

A Ruby to Watch

Mozambique Ruby, Diamond, Gold Ring
Stones: Cushion-shaped ruby weighing 12.10 carats;
full-cut diamonds weighing a total of 3.46 carats
Metal: 18k white and yellow gold

GRS Report # GRS2018-092459, dated September 26, 2018,
stating Natural Ruby, Origin Mozambique, Heated, Minor Residue

Estimate: $50,000 – $60,000.

Here is a large Mozambique ruby, enhanced by heat. Earlier this year, the 55 carat Estrela de Fura (no heat) sold at Sotheby’s in New York for $34 million. Will the Estrella have any effect on the selling price of this 12 carat heated Mozambique ruby? It will be interesting to watch.

“A ring fit for royalty featuring a large sized, deep red ruby surrounded by a halo of brilliant diamonds! Marked “DANWAK” and “18K”, tests as marked. Stone weights are known. Ruby displays a gorgeous red color, with natural eye-visible inclusions, some surface reaching. *Ring measures slightly larger on the mandrel; sizing within reason to avoid compromising the integrity of the setting since the diamonds extend more than halfway down the shank.”

Fancy Intense Pink Diamond, White Gold Ring

Stones: Round brilliant-cut fancy intense pink diamond weighing 0.27 carat
Metal: 18k white gold

GIA Report # 2225799265, dated January 31, 2023,
stating Natural, Fancy Intense Pink, Even color, VS1 clarity

Estimate: $30,000 – $50,000 (for a quarter carat diamond!)

“Pretty in Pink! This dainty ring packs a mighty pop of color. It showcases a sparkling diamond set in a mounting with heart shape gallery cutouts- how romantic!”

It is very pretty. No doubt. $30,000 to $50,000 estimated for the ring, which places the per carat price at an estimated $110,000/ct. to $185,000/ct.

Sapphire, Diamond, Gold Ring
Stones: Round-shaped sapphire weighing 16.17 carats; full and marquise-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 4.00 carats
Metal: 18k gold; rhodium

GIA Report 6282195749 dated February 11, 2020,
stating Natural Sapphire, Ethiopia Origin,
No Indications of Heating

Estimate: $20,000 – $30,000.

This is very impressive and very unusual! 16 carats, a very nice saturated color, and from Ethiopia!

“According to GIA literature the main source of Ethiopian sapphire comes from the alkali-basalt outcrops around the town of Chila. The miners dig deep pits to reach the river bed placer deposits responsible for yielding large beautiful stones that have since weathered out of their host rock. This offering measures an astounding 14.51 x 14.64 x 9.53 mm and weighs in at 16.17 carats. Certainly an unusually large sapphire from the locality and Ethiopia in general. Despite having the classic appearance of a basaltic sapphire this stone has a unique color, uncommon locality, and certified no heat by GIA.”

Others to Watch

Kimberly McDonald Tourmaline,
Diamond, Colored Diamond, Gold Earrings

Peter Schmid for Atelier Zobel Mabe Pearl,
Colored Diamond, Gold, Sterling Silver Bracelet

… and …

DeBeers Diamond, Gold Plated Brass Hourglass
Stones: Octahedral diamonds
Element: Acrylic
Metal: Gold-plated brass
Marked: De Beers, Louis Glick & Company
Gross Weight: 1,090 grams
Dimensions: 7 inches x 4-1/2 inches (with stand)

Estimate: $5,000 – $7,000.

“An opulent masterpiece that encapsulates the essence of time’s preciousness and DeBeer’s unrivaled mastery in creating breathtaking treasures. This mesmerizing hourglass measures time with serenity as it captures the natural beauty of diamonds as they descend gracefully with eternal allure. Marked “De Beers” and “Louis Glick & Company” on either end, weighing 760 grams. Including a stand marked “Manufactured in the UK Number: G 982″ on interior, having LED illumination (four AA batteries required – not included), and a blank plaque for engraving, weighing 330 grams. Accompanied by an Hourglass User Manual, and also having a signed De Beers velvet-lined presentation box and outer cover.”

For even MORE, Tap here to log into the Heritage Auction Catalogue.

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