GEMMES: Spring 2024
In this issue, you will find the contributions of Stéphane Renard, Thomas Cagniard, Féodor Blumentritt, Aurélien Delaunay, Franck Notari, Ingrid Lerouyer, Boris Chauviré, Clara Allirol-Mouton, Marianna Corre, Emmanuel Fritsch, Chloé Picard, Lauriane Pinsault, Marine Bouvier, Jean-Pierre Gauthier, Jacques Fereire, Thanh Nhan Bui, Francesco Mazzero.
GEMMES, Spring 2024
AT THE HEART OF GEMS • Glyptics: from the cradle of civilizations to the present day, an age-old art in constant evolution – Stéphane Renard
GLYPTICS: FROM THE DAWN OF CIVILIZATION TO THE PRESENT DAY – The art of stone or gem engraving was invented at the dawn of civilizations. It has played an essential role in the history of art and culture from its start to nowadays, evolving over the centuries to become a means of artistic expression. The earliest forms of glyptic art were observed among ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt, around 4,000 BC. Engraved cylindrical seals and scarabs served both as objects of art and means of personal identification. Glyptic art reached its first peak in Greece and Rome. Talented artisans produced intaglios featuring mythological motifs, portraits, and historical scenes, used as personal seals, jewelry, amulets, and collectibles. Throughout the ages of medieval Europe, the art of glyptics survived mainly through ancient collections and a few scattered monastic workshops. The Renaissance saw a renewed interest in engraved gemstones, with the development of a new form of tourism driven by the bourgeoisie. Glyptic art experienced its second peak in the 18th-19th centuries with the fashion for cameos. Today, glyptic art is gradually making a comeback, not only drawing the interest of collectors of ancient pieces but also coming back to the front of the jewelry scene.
FAIRS & EXHIBITIONS • A group of French-speaking people in Tucson 2024 – Boris Chauviré, Clara Allirol-Mouton, Marine Bouvier, Marianna Corre, Emmanuel Fritsch, Chloé Picard and Lauriane Pinsault
A GROUP OF FRANCOPHONES AT THE 2024 TUCSON SHOW – For lovers of gemology and mineralogy, Tucson is the one-month world’s center during the winter. During these 4 weeks, some 43 independent shows of all kinds of stones, minerals, jewelry and even fossils take place in the form of openair fairs, in sheds or tents, or in private homes. In 2024, a number of French-speaking visitors joined forces to experience this gathering of mineralogy and gemology enthusiasts, and for most of them it was their first time. They have decided to share their journey with you, each with their own vision.
LABORATORY GEMMOLOGY • The eye of Saint Lucia – Thomas Cagniard, Jean-Pierre Gauthier & Jacques Fereire • L’antlérite, a new gem species – Aurélien Delaunay, Emmanuel Fritsch, Ingrid Lerouyer
THE EYE OF SAINT-LUCIA – Highlighted by popular belief, the eye of Saint-Lucia is a biomineral, which is of undoubted gemological interest by its nature and through its use. As gastropod operculum of the species Bolma rugosa, its name is not protected and may have been used for other gastropod species. Calcareous opercula are showcased in jewelry on both their outer and inner sides. The latter features a logarithmic spiral pattern that can be found on opercula of various Turbininae species, and whose opening parameter seems constant for a given species**.
SCHOOL CASE • Inclusions in a composite stone – Boris Chauviré
ASSOCIATION • Buy antique jewelry… Why & How? – Gemmology & Francophonie • How to create content for a jeweler/seller guide – customer information? A working session at GemGenève, November 2023 – Gemmology & Francophonie • A winter garden 2024: between conferences, samples and games – Gemmology & Francophonie
BUYING ANTIQUE JEWELRY. WHY & HOW? – Buying an antique piece of jewelry is – often – buying a piece of history and sometimes even a fragment of the History. Sentimental, historical and even f inancial value are often associated with the notion of lifespan. And yet, the materials used for jewelry are sometimes less precious than the contemporary one. But there is a more specific notion to consider with the concept of provenance and provenance research. What should we say/reveal about the history of a jewel? Can we sell everything? There is also the notion of sustainability with the way of restoring an old piece of jewelry: should it be restored? How much? Should we apply the same rules as for the art market with the notion of 30%? A round table which invites us to reflect on the act of purchasing an old piece of jewelry and which offers a parallel with the art market.
GEMMES NEWS • Edition GGTL – The latest news from the laboratory – Féodor Blumentritt, Clara Allirol-Mouton, Candice Caplan & Franck Notari
GEMQUIZZ • GemmoCroisés – Gemmologie & Francophonie
ONE DAY, A CURIOSITY • Diffraction colors in a broken opal from Wollo (Ethiopia) – Jean-Pierre Gauthier, Jacques Fereire and Francesco Mazzero
Tap here for this and more in the latest edition of GEMMES (Gemmology en Français)!
