Sotheby’s Hong Kong High Jewelry auction was jam-packed with outstanding gems, important names, and fabulous designs. In fact, there were so many nice emeralds, rubies and sapphires, Paraíba tourmalines, spinels and jadeite, we didn’t know how to cover them all. Brooches, rings, necklaces, earrings — by Harry Winston, Cartier, Graff, Mauboussin…. This was quite the auction to kick off Luxury Week in Hong Kong.
Below, we have seventeen lots for you, and this is just the tip of the diamond-berg. (Get it?) There were so many we wanted to include — we had to stop somewhere. Seventeen sounded like a good number. You’ll just have to log into Sotheby’s (link below) to see all that was offered — and what sold.
Now that the auction is over and the bids are in, let’s see the results.
Burma No Heat Pair of Ruby and Diamond Pendent Earrings
Yes, these ruby earrings were at the top of the “highest estimate” list before the auction, but that’s not the only reason why they lead off our auction review. First of all, they are simply stunning. Second, the rubies are large and beautiful. And third, the layout of overlapping large oval rose-cut diamonds is eye-catching and truly unique*.
Details: So here we have a matched pair of unheated Burmese ruby and diamond pendent earrings. The elongated pear-shaped rubies weigh 5.20 and 5.08 carats. SSEF even notes that “a matching pair of rubies from Burma of this size and quality can be considered rare and exceptional.”
Estimate: 11,500,000 – 20,000,000 HKD
Sold — 12,800,000 HKD. ($1,631,589)
That is notable: HK$1.5 million below the HK$11.5 million low estimate at hammer, for the matched 5.20 and 5.08 ct Burmese rubies, no heat.
The earrings are accompanied by three SSEF lab reports stating Burmese, with no indications of heating. There are also two Gübelin reports that agree with SSEF: Burmese, with no indications of heating.
*The oval rose-cut diamonds are estimated to weigh a total of approximately 7.00-9.00 carats, of G-H colour, and mostly VS in clarity.
Mauboussin Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Necklace, Circa 1930s
Estimate: 9,500,000 – 11,000,000 HKD
SOLD: 12,500,000 HKD
164 Burmese Rubies, Two Synthetics, and Oil
This statement necklace is set with 166 tumbled rubies and ruby beads — 164 are natural rubies, noted as unheated and of Burmese origin. Two of the 166 are synthetic. There are also minor to moderate amounts of oil in fissures, and one ruby has been repaired.
Accenting the rubies are approximately 10-12 carats of brilliant-cut, old European-cut, square and baguette-cut diamonds.
Signed Mauboussin Paris, circa 1930, with fitted case stamped Mauboussin.
Emerald and Diamond Ring; and Diamond Necklace by Harry Winston
The ring is set with a hexagonal step-cut emerald weighing 25.09 carats and brilliant-cut diamonds, 18 karat yellow gold; and a necklace set throughout with marquise-shaped diamonds, 18 karat yellow gold, signed HW, circa 1980s.
SSEF lab report 25.09 carats, Colombian, with “no indications of clarity modification in fissures at the time of testing.” Gübelin’s lab report notes the same, with the emerald weighing 25.09 carats, from Colombia, with no indications of clarity enhancement.
The Harry Winston emerald ring and diamond necklace (Lot 1760), estimated at HKD 8–15 million, was withdrawn from the sale.
Important Paraíba Tourmaline and Diamond Ring – Four Lab Reports!
Estimate: 7,800,000 – 15,500,000 HKD
7.52 ct Brazilian Paraíba tourmaline
SOLD: 10,496,000 HKD ($1,337,900)
The cushion-cut Paraíba tourmaline weighing 7.52 carats and brilliant-cut diamonds, 18 karat white gold.
Accompanied by a GIA report, an AGL report, an SSEF report, and a Gübelin report stating 7.52 carats, from Brazil, with no indications of heating. Also accompanying the tourmaline is a letter from the GIA commending its size, lack of treatment and exceptional color.
Harry Winston: Impressive Pair of Emerald and Diamond Pendent Earrings, Circa 1970s
Estimate: 7,000,000–15,000,000 HKD
SOLD: 7,168,000 HKD ($913,689)
Suspending two pear-shaped Colombian emeralds weighing 17.03 and 16.27 carats, accented by pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds and mounted in platinum and gold. Unsigned, circa 1970s.
The emeralds are accompanied by reports from Gübelin, AGL and GRS, all stating Colombian origin and minor clarity enhancement with oil-type filling material.
Although the earrings are unsigned, they are accompanied by a copy of the original Harry Winston S.A. of New York purchase receipt, dated July 6, 1971, as well as a pouch stamped Harry Winston.
31 Natural Conch Pearls — But Only 25 in the Necklace
Estimate: 6,500,000–9,500,000 HKD
This necklace is set with 25 graduated natural conch pearls, alternating with cultured pearls and faceted diamond beads. The clasp is set with a step-cut emerald surrounded by round brilliant-cut diamonds.
But there are actually 31 conch pearls.
The owner shortened the necklace, leaving six conch pearls loose. Those six pearls — ranging from approximately 2.69 to 6.94 carats — accompany the necklace.
An SSEF report covers all 31 conch pearls, stating that they are natural, with no indications of artificial color modification.
Sotheby’s notes that the majority of the conch pearls display a visible flame structure, with the flame structure more pronounced in some than others.
The necklace (Lot 1714), estimated at HKD 6.5–9.5 million, was withdrawn from the sale.
Padparadscha Sapphire and Diamond Necklace
Estimate: 2,900,000 – 5,500,000 HKD
Now this has to break some kind of record. More than 50 padparadscha sapphires — all in one necklace!
Set with pear-shaped padparadscha sapphires weighing approximately 50.61 carats in total, accented by pear-shaped and oval diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18 karat white and pink gold.
And then there is the paperwork.
Two of the larger pear shapes, weighing 3.12 and 2.04 carats, are accompanied by Gübelin Gem Lab reports stating Madagascar origin, with no indications of heating.
There are 53 GRS reports for sapphires ranging from 3.12 to 0.19 carat. Of those, 39 were determined to be from Madagascar, with no indications of thermal treatment; the origin of one additional sapphire was undeterminable.
There are also six GIA reports, covering sapphires ranging from 1.96 to 0.19 carat, all stating no indications of heating.
Bidding reached HKD 2 million, but that wasn’t enough. The necklace (Lot 1676) passed.
One Sapphire and Diamond Ring – Four Lab Reports
Estimate: 5,500,000 – 9,500,000 HKD
Sold: 4,500,000 HKD Hammer Price ( $573,589)
This is an important sapphire — a 20.84-carat sugarloaf Kashmir.
The sapphire is accompanied by four laboratory reports — from SSEF, Gübelin, AGL and GIA — all stating Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
21.36-Carat Tanzanian Spinel and Diamond Ring
Estimate: 4,500,000–6,000,000 HKD
SOLD: 5,184,000 HKD ($660,747)
Big Red
This is a big spinel — 21.36 carats, cushion-shaped, slightly purplish red, with strong saturation.
The spinel is accompanied by two laboratory reports. AGL calls it “Classic™ Tanzania,” with no evidence of enhancement or treatment. SSEF states Tanzanian origin, with no indications of treatment.
The spinel is accented by round brilliant-cut diamonds and mounted in 18 karat white and yellow gold.
438.84 Carats of Colombian Emerald Beads – Necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels
Estimate: 4,600,000 – 6,000,000 HKD
Composed of 72 carved emerald beads weighing approximately 438.84 carats in total, accented by two shield-shaped diamonds. Clasp signed Van Cleef & Arpels.
72 Emeralds — 72 Gübelin Reports
All 72 emerald beads are accompanied by individual Gübelin Gem Lab reports stating Colombian origin, with indications of minor clarity enhancement using a traditional filling material (oil-type).
Bidding reached HKD 3.5 million, but that wasn’t enough. The necklace (Lot 1810) passed.
Tiffany & Co. Paraíba Tourmaline and Diamond Pendent Necklace
Estimate: 3,150,000–4,800,000 HKD
Set with a pear-shaped Brazilian Paraíba tourmaline weighing 4.25 carats, accented by round brilliant-cut diamonds and mounted in platinum. Signed Tiffany & Co., numbered, with maker’s mark.
The tourmaline is accompanied by an AGL report, stating Brazilian origin and noting Color Stability: Excellent. There is also a GRS report stating that the tourmaline has been heated.
Bidding reached HKD 1.9 million, but that wasn’t enough. The Tiffany & Co. Paraíba tourmaline and diamond pendant necklace (Lot 1797) passed.
Padparadscha Sapphire and Diamond Pendent Necklace
Estimate: 2,000,000 – 3,000,000 HKD
SOLD: 2,048,000 HKD ($261,039)
Set with an oval padparadscha sapphire weighing 23.63 carats, heart-shaped diamonds, brilliant-cut diamonds and diamonds of pink tint, 18 karat white and pink gold.
SSEF report no. 92205, 22 May 2017: 23.630 carats, Ceylon, no indications of heating
GRS report no. GRS2017-052127, 17 May 2017: 23.63 carats, Ceylon, no indication of thermal treatment
Please note the reports are more than 5 years old and may require an update.
Oval padparadscha sapphire weighing 23.63 cts, of medium orangy pink colour and strong saturation, lightly included with typical inclusions and feathers, as examined under 10x magnification.
Kat Florence — 144 Carats of Paraíba-Type Tourmaline
Estimate: 3,000,000–4,000,000 HKD
SOLD: 2,048,000 HKD ($261,036)
Now these are big!
Two unmounted Mozambique Paraíba-type tourmalines weighing 71.24 and 72.84 carats — 144.08 carats combined.
Both are accompanied by Gübelin Gem Lab reports. The 72.84-carat stone received a Gem Rating of 90.6, “Outstanding,” while the 71.24-carat stone received an even higher 92.1, also “Outstanding.”
The tourmalines are described as medium to light greenish blue, with medium-light saturation, and mostly eye-clean. Are they too big for earrings?
Kat Florence — A 424.80-Carat Tanzanite
Estimate: 2,000,000–2,800,000 HKD
SOLD: 2,048,000 HKD ($261,036)
424.80 carats. Yes, you read that correctly.
The Kat Florence pendent necklace features an enormous 424.80-carat step-cut tanzanite, surrounded by princess- and round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds have a stated total weight of 34.75 carats.
The tanzanite is accompanied by a Gübelin Gem Lab report stating indications of heating and giving the stone a Gem Rating of 91.9, “Outstanding.”
Signed Kat Florence and accompanied by a Kat Florence Certificate of Authenticity.
And in an interesting coincidence, both Kat Florence lots in our review sold for exactly the same price: HK$2,048,000.
Paraíba-Type Tourmaline, Hauynite and Diamond Ring
Estimated at 600,000–1,200,000 HKD, the ring sold for 1,984,000 HKD — well above its high estimate. ($252,879)
Set with a saturated heart-shaped Paraíba-type tourmaline weighing 5.48 carats, accented by circular-cut hauynes and epaulette-shaped diamonds.
The ring is accompanied by a Gübelin report stating that the 5.48-carat tourmaline is of Mozambican origin, with no indications of heating.
The Paraíba-type tourmaline is described as medium greenish blue in color and medium-strong in saturation.
Dusausoy Art Deco Natural Pearl, Seed Pearl and Diamond Brooch
Estimate: 550,000 – 700,000 HKD
SOLD: 576,000 HKD ($73,422)
200 Natural Saltwater Seed Pearls
This beautiful Art Deco brooch is composed of 200 graduated natural seed pearls and old European-cut diamonds. Circa 1930s.
Seed Pearls range in size from approximately 5.5 to 1.7 mm
The seed pearls have a cream body color, with green and rosé overtones, good to very good luster, and minor surface blemishes including pitting and growth marks.
200 Pearls Tested
Accompanied by a Gemological Certification Services (GCS), London, report, stating that the 200 pearls tested are natural, saltwater pearls, with no indications of treatment.
Lot 1736 Coloured Diamond and Diamond Bracelet – 85 GIA Lab Reports!
Last in our review is this pink diamond bracelet — which did not sell.
So why are we featuring it?
The bracelet is set with 85 square and rectangular modified brilliant-cut diamonds of pink hue, weighing a total of 10.58 carats, accented by colorless round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 4.81 carats.
85 Reports!
Because there are 85 pink diamonds, there are also 85 GIA reports!
We are often impressed by the gems. This time, we’re also impressed by the paperwork.
The colored diamonds range from 0.06 to 0.25 carat and include Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink, Fancy Intense Purplish Pink, Fancy Intense Purple-Pink, Fancy Deep Purplish Pink, Fancy Purplish Pink, Fancy Intense Pink, Fancy Deep Pink, Fancy Pink, Fancy Intense Orangy Pink and Fancy Orangy Pink — all natural color.
That’s all from here.
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