The Phillips Geneva Jewels auction, LIVE on May 12, 2025, has the potential to be an outstanding sale, featuring 144 lots of exciting jewels!
We’ve selected a few standouts, including: a beautiful 10-carat Burmese ruby (no heat) diamond ring; a massive 122-carat Mozambique Paraiba-type tourmaline (no heat, high clarity, and accompanied by a glowing Appendix, suggesting no clarity enhancement); and a fabulous 13-carat Burmese sapphire from Graff — so we know we’re talking exceptional quality — along with several other truly impressive gems and jewels!
With a few weeks to go before the auction, it will be exciting to review the full catalog and get ready to watch the results unfold!
Ruby and Diamond Ring
Set with an oval ruby weighing 10.69 carats, between half-moon diamonds weighing 0.92 and 1.04 carats respectively, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, size 53, Italian maker’s mark and assay mark for gold.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 114919, stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; together with two gemmological reports.
Estimate: CHF420,000 – 650,000
Impressive Unmounted Paraiba Mozambique Tourmaline
The oval Paraiba tourmaline weighing 122.77 carats, accompanied by a Gübelin Gem Lab report no. 25037237, stating that the Paraiba tourmaline is of Mozambique origin, with no indications of heating; together with an Appendix Letter and two additional gemmological reports.
“Besides its large size, this extra-ordinary gemstone displays a richly saturated and homogenous colour, combined with a bright appearance. The pleasant shape and finely proportioned cut provide many vivid, internal colour reflections and the high clarity of the gemstone makes it eye-clean. Natural Paraiba tourmalines of this size, endowed with such intrinsic qualities as a high clarity and transparency, combined with a fine cut, which complements its visual appearance, are rare.” – Gübelin Appendix to Report no. 25037237, 05 March 2025.
Estimate: CHF335,000 – 530,000
Natural Pearl and Diamond Brooch
Set with a button-shaped greyish brown natural pearl measuring approximately 11.72-12.26 x 9.35mm and a drop-shaped greyish brown natural pearl measuring approximately 9.95-10.30 x 14.75mm, highlighted with circular-cut diamonds and button-shaped pearls measuring from approximately 3.95mm to 4.45mm, measuring approximately 50 x 70mm.
The natural pearl brooch is accompanied by an SSEF report no. 143039, stating that the two largest pearls are natural, saltwater, with no indications of artificial colour modification.
Pearl Details:
SSEF report no. 143039, dated 18 December 2024, stating that the button-shaped natural pearl measuring 11.72-12.26 x 9.35mm and the drop-shaped natural pearl measuring 9.95-10.30 x 14.75mm are natural, saltwater, with no indications of artificial colour modification.
Button-shaped pearl and drop-shaped pearl of greyish brown body colour, with rosé, green and purple overtones, with some blemishes.
Smaller pearls with minor blemishes.
Diamonds:
Diamonds are bright and lively; one small diamond is missing.
Estimate: CHF22,000 – 30,000
Graff Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 13.24 carats, between pear-shaped diamond shoulders, size 49, signed Graff.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 132185 and Gübelin report no. 19027197, each stating that the sapphire is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; together with a gemmological report.
Estimate: €263,000 – 376,000
Janesich: Rock Crystal and Diamond Brooch, 1920s
The hexagonal frosted rock crystal brooch embellished with circular-, single- and rose-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 29 x 32mm, signed Janesich (Paris, Trieste), numbered, French maker’s mark and assay marks for platinum.
Signed Janesich, numbered 10850, French maker’s mark and assay marks for platinum.
In overall good condition, the metal with scratches, consistent with age and use.
Frosted rock crystal with small scratches, nicks and signs of wear.
Diamonds bright and lively.
Estimate: CHF2,600 – 4,500
Bulgari: Fine Ruby and Diamond Ring
Set with an octagonal ruby weighing 7.37 carats, within a halo of brilliant-cut diamonds, size 51, signed Bulgari.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 145420 and AGL report no. 1122046, each stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.
Originally from Kalarites, Greece, Sotirios Voulgaris emigrated to Rome because of Greece’s rising poverty and difficulty separating from the Ottoman Empire. He set foot on Italian soil in 1880 with little money in his pocket and spent the next four years preparing what would go on to become Italy’s oldest jewelry company.
In 1884, Bulgari opened its doors to the Italian people with its offering of jewelry and accessories. Bulgari’s style takes from traditions in Greek and Roman craftsmanship to elegantly balance volume and subtlety. Later, in the late 1960s, Bulgari bridged classicism and modernity by introducing its seductive, now-iconic Serpenti collection of snake-shaped coil bracelets and watches. It is through its meticulous combination of influences that Bulgari has garnered an international and loyal high-profile clientele, which included Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn. These Hollywood stars have immortalized the house’s unique gem-adorned bracelets, necklaces and earrings in rounded forms.
Estimate: CHF400,000 – 530,000
Impressive Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Diamond Pendant
Impressive Indeed!
A 53-carat beautifully cut cushion brilliant (labeled Old Mine Cut on the GIA report – with a 63% table, which is somewhat wider than your typical OMC) and color graded Fancy VIVID Yellow. Weighing exactly 53.14 carats, the center stone is accented by a circular-cut diamond.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 5212934582, stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Colour, Internally Flawless, with Excellent Polish.
Estimate: CHF2,150,000 – 3,100,000
Van Cleef & Arpels: Very Fine Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 7.10 carats, highlighted with brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Van Cleef & Arpels.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 135125, Gübelin report no. 22023149, and AGL report no. 1120259, each stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating; together with SSEF and AGL appendix letters, the AGL letter mentioning ‘Royal Blue’ colour, and an additional SSEF special letter, stating that the sapphire has an approximate age of about 24 million years.
Accompanied by the accolades of the Gem Labs:
The sapphire described in Gemstone Report No. 135125 from the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF possesses extraordinary characteristics and merits special mention and appreciation.
The described gemstone exhibits a remarkable size and weight of 7.107 ct and is characterised by an attractive and saturated blue colour and a very fine clarity, a combination rarely encountered in sapphires from Kashmir of this size. (…) In addition to these qualities, this sapphire has been spared exposure to heat treatment and its clarity and colour are thus entirely natural.
A sapphire from Kashmir of this size and quality can be considered rare and exceptional.” – SSEF Appendix Letter no. 135125, 19 December 2023.
“This sapphire has received the highest origin determination issued by AGL: Classic Kashmir. In this particular case, the combination of size, origin and quality elements signifies a gem of importance. It possesses the quintessential, richly saturated blue colour that distinguishes a top-quality Kashmir sapphire. (…) The beautiful colour of this very fine gem is further enhanced by the cushion-shape, mixed cut fashioning which results in deep, internal colour reflections and brilliance that complements the overall visual appearance of the stone. In addition, it possesses a high clarity which results in a heightened degree of transparency. (…) Augmenting its importance is the fact that it also does not exhibit any gemmological evidence of heating or clarity enhancements, which are commonly employed today to improve the colour and quality of many sapphires.
At 7.10 cts, this Classic Kashmir sapphire possesses a unique combination of quality factors that further elevates the character and desirability of this rare gem. For the aficionado of Kashmir material, this gemstone represents a superb example of why Kashmir has earned the status for being the source for sapphires to which all others are compared.” – AGL Appendix Letter no. 1120259, 13 January 2022.
“The natural sapphire of 7.10 ct described in the above mentioned Gübelin Gem Lab Report possess a richly saturated and homogenous colour, combined with a high degree of transparency, and a finely proportioned cut. In addition, this remarkable gemstone has been spared of thermal treatment. Such a combination of characteristics is rare in natural Kashmiri sapphires of this size.” – Gübelin Appendix Letter no. 16052002, 24 May 2016.
Estimate: CHF880,000 – 1,325,000
… and that’s all we have for you here in our report.
