On Friday April 15th, the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fine Jewelry Auction hammered out several beautiful and notable pieces to spotlight in the Roskin Gem News.
But two headliners did not appear on the sold list.
1. “An Important Jadeite Bead, Ruby and Diamond Necklace | 天然翡翠珠 配 紅寶石 及 鑽石 項鏈,” featuring 46 translucent strong green beads and a cabochon ruby clasp, estimated to sell between 20,000,000 and 35,000,000 HKD,
2. “An Important Ruby and Diamond Necklace | 天然「緬甸」未經加熱紅寶石 配 鑽石 項鏈 (紅寶石共重約49.18克拉),” estimated to sell between 9,500,000 and 18,000,000 HKD.
Not On The List
One never really knows why a particular piece is pulled from an auction, or doesn’t make the minimum during a sale. You can make assumptions that there was a change of heart, or a lack of confidence in the economy, or even a lack of proper description that defeats confidence. But for whatever the reason, we have two items that we find gemologically important that did not end up on the sold list.
Should we be concerned about a troubling trend, or is this just business as usual?
Natural, No Treatment
First headliner not on the final sale list was this “Important Jadeite Bead, Ruby and Diamond Necklace | 天然翡翠珠 配 紅寶石 及 鑽石 項鏈”
It was estimated to sell for between 20,000,000 and 35,000,000 HKD.
Set with forty-six slightly graduated highly translucent jadeite beads of vivid green colour, completed by a cabochon ruby and brilliant-cut diamond-set clasp, mounted in 18 karat white gold, with a length approximately 560mm.
The Jadeite beads measure approximately 11.95 to 9.92mm.
Accompanied by Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory certificate no. KJ 107510(1-46), dated 10 January 2025, stating that the jadeites are natural, known in the trade as ‘A Jade’.
Our second headliner that did not make the sold list:
Natural Burmese, No Heat
A Natural Burmese unheated ruby and diamond necklace (rubies weighing approximately 49.18 carats).
The rubies are described as having a medium slightly purplish red color of strong saturation, with typical inclusions, few surface reaching and minor abrasions as examined under 10x magnification. The diamonds are of decorative quality.
Interesting to note, this necklace is accompanied by two gemological reports: one from the Gübelin Gem Lab, and one from the GRS lab. Both state that the rubies tested (not all were tested) are of Burmese origin with no indications of heating. The diamonds weigh approximately 50.00 carats in total, with an average color of H-I colour, (“a few J”), with a range of clarity graded VS-SI.
One of the challenges with jewels set with colored gems is that there is usually no comment as to the quality of the gems. Burmese gives us country of origin, and no heat tells us that there has been no enhancement of color (and most likely no enhancement of clarity.) But this does not give us the clarity or quality of the gem. This is why we must attend as many auctions as possible to examine the quality in person.
Now, we do have an interesting comment regarding the diamonds.
Decorative quality?
Does someone want to tell us what qualifies a diamond as “decorative quality?”
Is this a nice way to say that the colors and clarities are a bit off the high standards
we are used to seeing at an important auction? Just curious.
On the SOLD List
Cartier Diamond Earrings
A Highly Important ‘Écho’ Pair of Fancy Intense Pink Diamond and Colorless Diamond Pendent Earrings | 卡地亞 | 6.32克拉 濃彩粉紅色鑽石 配 6.03克拉 梨形 D色 內部無瑕 Type IIa 鑽石 耳環一對
Lot 1746, a highly important pair of Cartier earrings, where one earring featuring a Fancy Intense Pink pear shape diamond weighing 6.32 carats, “dances alongside” a 6.03 carats D color, Internally Flawless Type IIa pear shape diamond.
They danced off the podium for 22 million HKD!
Estimate: 24,000,000 – 32,000,000 HKD
Lot Sold: 22,335,000 HKD
Each earring suspending a pear-shaped fancy intense pink diamond weighing 6.32 carats and a colorless pear-shaped diamond weighing 6.03 carats, from a surmount set with a brilliant-cut diamond weighing 0.54 carat or a brilliant-cut fancy intense pink diamond weighing 0.62 carat respectively, decorated with baguette diamonds, mounted in platinum. Signed Cartier, and numbered, shows a French assay and maker’s marks, along with a case stamped Cartier.
The earrings are accompanied by two GIA reports no. 17429586, dated 6 December 2017 and no. 6177410361, dated 12 December 2017, stating that the 6.32 and 0.62 carat diamonds are both Fancy Intense Pink, Natural Colour, SI2 and VS2 Clarity respectively.
Also accompanied by GIA report no. 2185133831, dated 6 December 2022, stating that the 6.03 carat diamond is D Colour, Internally Flawless; together with a diamond type classification letter stating that the diamond is determined to be a Type IIa diamond. Type IIa diamonds are the most chemically pure type of diamond and often have exceptional optical transparency. Further accompanied by GIA dossier no. 7243916614, dated 13 February 2017, stating that the 0.54 carat diamond is D Colour, Internally Flawless.
Take Two
TWO Large Diamonds – a 45 carat Fancy Intense Yellow Square Emerald Cut (left), and a 61 carat Fancy Greenish-Yellow Radiant Cut (right).
Why Gold?
Large and impressive, these two attention getters certainly got our attention!
While it could simply be a personal preference, the choice of metal is quite important. The yellow gold ring (“Metal tested as yellow gold”) will enhance the body color of the Fancy Intense Yellow diamond, while the white gold ring (“Stamped 750 for 18 karat white gold”) acts more for contrast than enhancement. A yellow gold mount may overpower, or clash with the slight greenish secondary hue of the 61-carat diamond.
Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond Ring | 45.15克拉 濃彩黃色鑽石 戒指 and a Fancy Greenish Yellow Diamond Ring | 61.47克拉 彩綠黃色鑽石 戒指
The 45.15-carat square emerald cut comes with a GIA report no. 2215466475, dated 22 February 2021, stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Yellow, Natural Colour, VS1 Clarity.
Estimate: 7,500,000 – 15,000,000 HKD
Lot Sold: 8,636,000 HKD
The 61.47-carat Radiant Cut diamond, is accompanied by GIA report no. 6224645999, dated 22 September 2022, stating that the diamond is Fancy Greenish Yellow, Natural Colour, VS2 Clarity.
Estimate: 7,000,000 – 12,000,000 HKD
Lot Sold: 10,867,000 HKD
Kashmir Sapphire
Sapphire and Diamond Ring | 11.56克拉 天然「克什米爾」未經加熱藍寶石 配 鑽石 戒指
Estimate: 5,500,000 – 8,000,000 HKD
Lot Sold: 6,350,000 HKD
Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 11.56 carats, the center stone is flanked by two old European-cut diamonds, mounted in 18 karat white gold.
No Less than Four Gemological Reports
The sapphire is accompanied by an SSEF report no. 139020, dated 11 June 2024, stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
The sapphire also come with a Gübelin report no. 24091132, dated 10 October 2024, stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
And the sapphire is further accompanied by an AGL report no. 8092338, dated 25 June 2024, stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no gemological evidence of heat and clarity enhancement.
And a fourth report, a GRS Lab report stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir, with no indication of thermal treatment.
Conch Pearl and Diamond Necklace | 海螺珠 配 鑽石 項鍊
Composed of forty-five graduating conch pearls measuring approximately from 11.20 x 7.47mm to 5.94 x 4.62mm, spaced by diamond beads, mounted in silver, length approximately 460mm.
A beautiful necklace of conch pearls of organic shapes, separated by faceted diamond beads. We are puzzled by the use of silver for the clasp. This is an important necklace, and deserves an important clasp.
Estimate: 500,000 – 1,000,000 HKD
Lot Sold: 698,500 HKD
Diamond Ring | 10.01克拉 長方形 D色 內部無瑕 Type IIa 鑽石 鑽石
Estimate: 2,700,000 – 4,300,000 HKD
Lot Sold: 5,715,000 HKD
This is a fabulous 10-carat emerald cut diamond. The diamond is accompanied by a GIA report no. 6224649436, dated 30 September 2022, stating that the diamond is D colour, Internally Flawless, with Excellent Polish and Symmetry. Also accompanied by a diamond type classification letter stating that the diamond is determined to be a Type IIa diamond. Type IIa diamonds are the most chemically pure type of diamond and often have exceptional optical transparency.
Nothing wrong with this diamond – 10.01 carats, Internally Flawless and D color! And the bidding on this diamond agreed!
Ruby and Diamond Necklace | 天然 「緬甸」未經加熱紅寶石 配 鑽石 項鍊（紅寶石總重約56.47克拉）
This spectacular matching Burmese ruby and diamond necklace is composed of a series of oval and cushion-shaped rubies weighing 56.47 carats in total, each suspending a foliate motif of marquise-shaped diamonds, spaced by brilliant-cut diamonds, with a length approximately 410mm.
It is accompanied by Gübelin no. 25021016, dated 21 February 2025, stating that the rubies are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.
Set in white gold, the diamonds are approximately 47.00-49.00 carats in total weight, on average G-I colour, and VS-SI clarity as gauged and graded in the mount.
Estimate: 2,200,000 – 3,800,000 HKD
Lot Sold: 2,032,000 HKD
Tap here to see all sold lots and the hammer price.
