Christie’s Geneva: An Update – Magnificent Jewels Geneva: Emeralds & Natural Pearls, Sapphires & Diamonds Top of Sale
As we reported in our last newsletter, Christie’s Geneva: Magnificent Jewels, there were “too numerous wonderful pieces to explore in the Report.” Not only were there too many to report, there was one that set a world record for the most expensive emerald ever sold at auction!
Let’s see if the Lots we were watching did well. We think you will be impressed with many of the results!
The Aga Khan emerald sets
new world auction record
55 years after its original sale
in Geneva!
#1 THE AGA KHAN EMERALD – This was the featured piece of the auction, and rightfully so. The square-shaped Colombian emerald, weighing 37.00 carats, and measuring 4.9 cm high, is surrounded by marquise-shaped diamonds, set in platinum and 18k yellow gold (with French marks), and can be worn as a pendant or a brooch. It was created in 1960, and has a very prominent history.
Gemological Reports
The important gemological reports come from SSEF, stating that the famous emerald shows no indications of clarity modification (no fillers). The Gübelin Gem Lab has also examined the Aga Khan, also noting that there were no indications of clarity enhancement.
Provenance
As noted above, this brooch has important history. It was commissioned by Prince Aga Khan to Cartier Paris in 1960. It was gifted to his wife, Nina Dyer. The brooch was offered for sale at Christie’s inaugural Magnificent Jewels auction on 1 May 1969 in Geneva, Switzerland, at the Hotel Richemond as part of the collection of Nina Dyer. A few years later, the brooch passed to famous New York Jewelry House, Harry Winston.
Selling Price
The sale estimate was CHF 5,200,000 – CHF 7,000,000, and SOLD for CHF 7,765,000
From Christie’s
The Aga Khan Emerald was sold today at Christie’s in Geneva for CHF7,765,000 | US$8,859,865, 55 years after it was originally offered at the first Christie’s Jewellery auction to be held in Switzerland. It was formerly part of the Collection of Nina Dyer, the British socialite who was briefly married to Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan, sold in 1969 to benefit animal welfare. The highlight of the Collection at the time, the emerald was offered as lot 106 and made CHF 900,000 | US$205,486.
Francois Curiel, now Chairman Christie’s Europe but then Christie’s intern to be, remembers the sale: “The emerald was breathtaking 55 years ago and is even more admired today. It is so rare to see a jewel of its size and quality and I feel privileged to have had the winning bidder on the phone 55 years later, here in Geneva in 2024.”
The emerald was the highlight of the Magnificent Jewels auction.
Max Fawcett, Head of Jewellery Europe commented: “The Magnificent Jewels auction was a huge success with bidding activity on every lot from collectors all over the world. The market for signed vintage jewels and coloured gemstones of the highest quality is as strong as it has ever been, and we are very proud to have set a world record for the most expensive emerald ever sold at auction. We now look to New York, London and Paris to finish what has been an extraordinary year in a challenging macroeconomic environment.”
For more on this amazing emerald, tap here!
#2 THE MAHARAJA NECKLACE
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
TRANSFORMABLE DIAMOND NECKLACE AND EARRINGS
This massive necklace featured three FLAWLESS pear shape brilliant-cut diamonds of 25.50, 11.24 and 11.13 carats, and accompanied by too numerous diamonds of various shapes and weights, all set in 18k white gold (with French marks).
The most remarkable feature, as if three large Flawless pear shapes weren’t enough, is that this necklace can transform into seventeen pieces of jewellery: seven necklaces, three bracelets, one brooch, and four pairs of earrings! Now THAT is a convertible!
Selling Price
The sale was estimated at CHF 3,500,000 – CHF 5,000,000 and SOLD for CHF 5,490,000
#3 RARE 20 CARAT UNMOUNTED KASHMIR SAPPHIRE
This was a rare 20.18 carat Kashmir sapphire, measuring 15.50 x 15.11 x 8.82 mm., with no evidence of heat treatment, a cushion-shape, accompanied by an SSEF report, noting that there are no indications of heating. The Kashmir sapphire was also provided a Gübelin Gem Lab report confirming no indications of heating.
Selling Price
Estimated to sell for CHF 1,200,000 – CHF 1,700,000, the loose sapphire SOLD for CHF 2,767,500.
#4 EXCEPTIONAL COLOURED NATURAL PEARL
COLOURED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
This was a spectacular four (4) strands graduated coloured natural salt-water pearls of various hues, ranging approximately from 12.80 to 3.65 mm, with an “old-cut yellow diamond” and diamonds clasp, in silver and yellow gold.
The necklace is accompanied by an SSEF report, noting 274 natural pearls, saltwater, with no indications of artificial colour modification.
For more details of the necklace, you can refer back to last week’s Roskin Report newsletter.
Selling Price
Estimated to sell for CHF 900,000 – CHF 1,200,000, the natural peal necklace SOLD for CHF 1,134,000.
#5 UNMOUNTED 11 CARAT D-COLOUR DIAMOND, POTENTIAL
This was an 11.44 carat long slender oval brilliant, potentially Internally Flawless with minor recutting/repolishing, of D color.
Selling Price
This wonderful elongated oval was estimated to sell for between CHF 300,000 – CHF 500,000, and SOLD for CHF 592,200.
The diamond was accompanied by a GIA report, graded D colour, VVS1 clarity, and potentially Internally Flawless. The grading report came along with a working diagram for recutting.
Repolishing to Attain Internally Flawless and to Remove the Double 4s
The number 4 is pronounced “si” (死) in Chinese, which is the word for “death.” Chinese buildings often don’t have a fourth floor, and drivers avoid license plates ending in 4. It is certainly possible that this diamond would need to be recut, not only to achieve the Internally Flawless grade, but to get rid of the double 4s (11.44 cts.) – double death.
Two more lots that we were watching … somewhat surprising results on the mystery clock, and past expectations on the VCA ZIP necklace.
IT IS A WONDERFUL CLOCK
CARTIER MULTI-GEM ‘MYSTERY’ CLOCK
Round carved rock crystal dial, rubies and emeralds of various shapes, nephrite and rose quartz, mother-of-pearl plaque, cultured pearl, round diamonds, manual movement, 18k yellow gold (French marks), signed Cartier, and numbered.
Selling Price
Estimate to sell for CHF 180,000 – CHF 260,000, the mystery clock SOLD for CHF 176,400
OUTSTANDING RESULTS
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS EMERALD, CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND ‘ZIP’ NECKLACE
THE ‘ZIP’ NECKLACE, AN ICON BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
One of the most innovative jewels ever created, the Van Cleef & Arpels’ ‘Zip’ necklace is an iconic design. Legend has it that during the 1930s the Duchess of Windsor asked Renée Puissant, the creative director of the brand between 1926-1942 and daughter of Alfred Van Cleef & Esther Arpels, to create a jewelled zip fastener to wear with her evening gowns.
Although the patent for the design was registered in 1938, it was not until 1951 that Van Cleef & Arpels presented the first ‘Zip’ necklace. The Zip Collection still pays homage to the world of fashion today, recreating zippers adorned with filigree, precious stones, and ingenious mechanisms.
Selling Price
Estimate: CHF 180,000 – CHF 260,000 SOLD for CHF 819,000!
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND ‘ÉTOILE DU NORD’ CLIP-BROOCH
This wonderful brooch featured a central cushion-shaped sapphire of 9.37 carats, surrounded by round sapphires and diamonds, in 18k yellow gold and platinum (French marks), from the 1980s. It has a Gübelin Gem Lab report that states country of origin as Sri Lanka (Ceylon), with no indications of heating.
Selling Price
Estimated to sell for CHF 60,000 – CHF 80,000, this beautiful sapphire and diamond brooch SOLD for CHF 151,200!
And finally, a VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SPINEL AND DIAMOND FLOWER BROOCH
Black, red and pink spinels, round diamonds, 18k rose, white and yellow gold (French mark), signed Van Cleef & Arpels and VCA, and numbered. This lot was a unique Van Cleef & Arpels jewel from their High Jewellery Collection.
Selling Price
Estimated to sell for CHF 45,000 – CHF 70,000, the multi-color spinel and diamond brooch SOLD for CHF 126,000!
To check out MORE from the Geneva Magnificent Jewels Auction at Christie’s, Tap Here!
