Heritage Fall Signature® Auction: Signed Pieces Have a Good Day at the House!

Heritage Fall Signature® Auction: Signed Pieces Have a Good Day at the House!

Gary Roskin –
Roskin Gem News Report –

There were 517 items offered, 416 items sold on Monday in this Fall sale from Heritage Auctions, Dallas, Texas, with seven (7) of the top eight (8) high sales items being noteworthy diamonds. One of the headliners, a 5.01 carat pear shape brilliant, D color, Internally Flawless Type IIa diamond seen here, set in platinum, flanked by two tapered baguettes. The diamond ring sold for $300,000 including the Buyers Premium (BP).

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Fancy Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring

“It’s easy to get lost in the brilliance and scintillation of this stunning 16.07-carat fancy yellow natural diamond!”

The center diamond is set in an 18K yellow gold cage. The two side stones weigh approximately 1.30 carats and 1.35 carats. There is a “DW” hidden in the gallery under the center stone.

SOLD: $337,500.00 – includes Buyer’s Premium (BP)

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Ceylon Sapphire, Diamond, Platinum Brooch

Number four of the top eight on the highest sales list was this beautiful Sri Lankan blue Sapphire, cushion cut, no heat, surrounded by diamonds and calibré cut Sri Lankan blue sapphires.

Condition notes in the catalogue state that the sapphire faces-up silky. Under magnification, one sees “blankets” of reflective rutile silk further reaffirming the AGL call of unheated.

The catalogue goes on to say that “the diamonds are sensational and near colorless with VS clarity on average, ranging in size from 2.50 mm to 3.50 mm. Although the accenting calibré-cut sapphires are slightly mismatched in color, the focus is on the center sapphire with its legendary origins and desirable velvety, unheated disposition.”

Estimate: $45,000 – $55,000.
SOLD: $75,000.00 includes Buyer’s Premium (BP)

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Sabrina Burma Ruby, Ruby, Platinum Ring

Some of the beautiful pieces offered in this sale just did not sell, like this Sabrina platinum ring, set with no heat Burmese rubies.

According to the catalogue, “the Sabrina Ruby ring not only celebrates the richness of the rubies, but also the delicate artistry involved in calibré cutting. The use of platinum not only ensures durability and a timeless appeal but also adds an air of sophistication that elevates any ensemble. Perfect for special occasions or as a luxurious gift, this ring is a testament to classic elegance and modern craftsmanship. It exudes a charm that is both old-world and contemporary, making it a versatile addition to any jewelry collection. Marked Pt950, RU2.72 ct SABRINA.”

Original Estimate: $40,000 – $50,000

This ring is now being offered as a “Post Auction Purchase” with the retail price of $37,500.00 which includes the Buyer’s Premium (BP)

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Verdura Diamond, Coral, Cultured Pearl, Wood, Gold Bracelet

This bombé style wood bracelet is exemplary of Verdura’s masterful artistry and features the Maltese Cross, a hallmark of Verdura’s iconic design language. The captivating cross is adorned with a stunning arrangement of sparkling diamonds, lustrous mabé pearls, and orangy-pink coral cabochons, all set in warm 18K gold. These intricate embellishments contrast beautifully with each other and the soft finish of the hardwood bangle, creating a piece that is both elegant and unique. Minor scuffs on the dense wooden cuff add character and a touch of vintage patina, accompanied by the original Verdura branded clamshell box.

SOLD: $31,250.00 includes Buyer’s Premium (BP)

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Tiffany & Co. Art Deco Diamond, Platinum, Palladium Ring Set
“Transitional Cuts”

Tiffany & Co.: Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812-1902) founded the firm that bears his name in 1837. The boutique style business retailed stationery, silver, jewelry and objects d’art. With the growth of their jewelry interests, Tiffany soared. The company is credited with revolutionizing the jewelry industry by the invention of the open six-prong diamond setting. By 1907, the son of the founder, Louis Comfort Tiffany, rose to international attention for his profusion of the arts: painting, art glass and jewelry. As Tiffany & Company expanded, they offered select designers the ability to sign their pieces designed for the Tiffany & Co. brand; such as in 1955 Donald Claflin and Jean Schlumberger, in 1967 Angela Cummings, later Elsa Peretti in 1974 and most recently Paloma Picasso in 1980.

“These two Tiffany & Co rings shine with an allure that transcends mere fashion with unique inscriptions that serve as a romantic script marked by dates so close together they spin a narrative of celebration and commitment, a tangible connection to a moment sealed with a promise. The first, a platinum ring, cradles an emerald-cut diamond flanked by twinkling transitional-cut companions with a hand-inscribed note ‘H.W.B. Jr. – E.F.I. 8-10-47’ and ‘Tiffany & Co’ on the inside of the band. Its companion is a diamond and palladium eternity band with approximately 0.55 carats of 34 mostly high-clarity diamonds with only four lower-clarity stones, hand-inscribed ‘H.W.B. Jr. – E.F.I. December 6, 1947’ along the outside and, though mostly worn away on the inside, there’s just enough left to make out that this creation is made by Tiffany & Co.”

Diamond Cutting History in a Ring
This is a very interesting ring in that it is set with, according to the auction house description above, “transitional cuts.” The term “Transitional” refers to the diamond’s cut transitioning from the Old European Cut to the Modern Round Brilliant. GIA now calls these diamonds “circular brilliants” so that the round shape is described.

But what is even more interesting, is that the emerald cut appears to be in transition as well. The first emerald cut diamond, the Asscher Cut, had heavy corners, small table, high crown, steep pavilion, and large culet. Here we can see that the corners are still fairly prominent, and the culet, while not large, is still noticeable. The side view image, seen in the online catalogue, suggests a high crown and deep pavilion, but maybe not as obvious in the decades earlier Asscher Cut. Can we then call this a transitional cut, transitioning from the Asscher to the modern Emerald Cut? A ring in transition!

SOLD: $20,625 Includes Buyer’s Premium (BP)

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Oscar Heyman Bros.

The Heyman family emigrated from Russia to New York in 1906 where they launched Oscar Heyman & Brothers in 1912. The brothers were master platinumsmiths who utilized only the finest diamonds and colored gems. The firm manufactured and supplied jewelry for the most prestigious American jewelry houses of the 1930s. Oscar Heyman & Brothers continues to be a self-contained, family owned and operated business where the old world techniques of tool making, fine platinum and gold metalsmithing in the production of each piece.

A beautifully complex pansy flower design coupled with the prestigious provenance of Oscar Heyman—what more is there to say? This piece, designed for pierced ears, is in very good condition, embodying the unique artistry and heritage of one of the most esteemed names in jewelry.

SOLD: $16,875 includes Buyer’s Premium (BP)

Oscar Heyman Diamond, Colored Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum, Gold Brooch, circa 1997

 At the heart of this brooch lies a stunning arrangement of blue sapphires, yellow diamonds, and brilliant white diamonds, expertly set to form a striking floral motif. The deep blue sapphires are cut with precision, creating a vivid contrast against the radiant yellow diamonds, which add a warm, sunny glow. Surrounding these are dazzling white diamonds, enhancing the piece’s overall brilliance and elegance. Crafted in a sophisticated blend of white and yellow gold, the brooch offers versatility and durability, ensuring it remains a cherished accessory for years to come. The back of the brooch reveals an intricate setting that showcases the meticulous craftsmanship involved in its creation.

SOLD: $14,375.00 includes Buyer’s Premium (BP)

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Craig Drake

Craig Drake, son of a German watchmaker, graduated from the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania. He crafted and sold jewelry for retailers like Tiffany & Co. before establishing his own company based in Philadelphia, PA. He created custom pieces for some of the highest profile residents in the city. His appointments were highly coveted, and one had to get a client referral in order to meet with him. He accumulated over 50 years in the jewelry industry before passing in March 2015. His son, Craiger Drake, enthusiastically continues his father’s legacy and owns his own jewelry company, Craiger Drake Designs. He graduated from Roanoke College in 1988, and went on to study jewelry manufacturing in Hong Kong. Having 25 years of experience in the industry, Craiger has access to the rarest stones, and he has a talent for creating customized jewelry based on his client’s preferences.

Dive into elegance with this enchanting 18K white gold sea horse brooch, meticulously crafted by Craig Drake. Embellished with approximately 4.00 carats of dazzling full-cut diamonds, accentuated by carved black onyx, and a vibrant ruby cabochon eye captures the sea horse’s mystical essence. The brooch features a double pin with a sliding trombone catch, ensuring both security and sophistication.

SOLD: $5,750 w/ Buyer’s Premium (BP) 

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Nini Jewels

Born to a family of prestige jewelers, Nini Hale decided to carry on the family tradition that originated from her grandmother. Nini started her business in 1997, based out of Houston Texas, and made a name for herself by standing apart from any other designer with her bold use of brightly colored stones and intricately designed one of a kind pieces.

A stunning combination of near colorless diamonds and pink sapphires! After inspection it is likely this necklace was shortened at one point in time by a jeweler hence the wayward diamond count in comparison to the accompanying Statement of Value.

Overall this is quite the necklace with good quality diamonds and bright pink sapphires all in very good condition. Marked Nini 18K, and operated by box clasp with under gallery safety latch.

SOLD: $42,500.00 includes Buyer’s Premium (BP)

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J. Aragon Black Opal, Diamond, Gold Pendant

This breathtaking pendant showcases a magnificent Australian black opal, renowned for its vibrant play of colors and mystical allure. The scintillating diamond halo enhances the opal’s brilliance while the rich yellow gold setting provides a warm contrast, making the opal’s cool blue, green and violet colors pop.

Partially marked 18K J. Aragon on stationary bale completed by a figure-8 latch. Full-cut diamonds measuring 2.80 mm – 4.50 mm. Emerald-cut diamond measures 6.50 x 3.50 x 2.50 mm with M-N color, SI color and faint fluorescence. Opal displays crazing, and is polished on reverse.

SOLD: $7,500.00 includes Buyer’s Premium (BP)

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More to Share

Other pieces worthy of a mention here are:

Colombian Emerald, Diamond, Gold Ring – SOLD: $35,000
Sporting a bezel setting, this ring showcases a captivating emerald at its heart, surrounded on all sides by channel-set baguette-cut diamonds.

Garavelli Citrine, Diamond, Ruby, White Gold Brooch – SOLD: $12,500
The incorporation of darker Madeira-esque citrine set centrally, with lighter yellow citrine along the perimeter, gives the turtle’s shell a design only gemstones can achieve.

Tanzanite, Diamond, Freshwater Pearl, Convertible Gold Necklace – SOLD: $10,000
The star of this necklace is the massive 26.00 x 18.00 x 13.85 mm oval-shaped tanzanite, weighing approximately 47.00 carats! This elegant pendant features box clasps on either side, designed for easy attachment and detachment from the accompanying pearl torsade, which bears two male end clasps on either side.

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond, Sodalite, Gold Enhancer-Pendant – SOLD: $10,000
“This exquisite Van Cleef & Arpels enhancer-pendant design captures the essence of the zodiac, featuring a round-shaped sodalite plaque that measures 47.50 x 4.00 mm set in a luxurious 18K gold frame wrapped with a twisted gold rope. The celestial charm of Aquarius is highlighted by a beautifully rendered figure in gold, reaching out to a star symbolized by a 2.00 mm full-cut diamond. The deep blue of the sodalite embodies the night sky and magnificently contrasts with the gold. Light scratches are present on the gold and the sodalite.”

Van Cleef & Arpels Sapphire, Diamond, Gold Convertible Necklace – SOLD: $21,250

David Webb Diamond, Coral, Enamel, Platinum, Gold Ring – SOLD: $10,625

Art Deco Russian Emerald, Diamond, Platinum Bracelet – SOLD: $22,500

Jadeite Jade, Ruby, Sapphire, Diamond, Platinum Bracelet – SOLD: $20,000

Seaman Schepps Cultured Pearl, Diamond, White Gold Ear clips – SOLD: $3,750

Colombian Emerald, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring – SOLD: $52,500

Invisible set Sapphire, Diamond, Platinum, White Gold Brooch – SOLD: $20,000

Diamond, Platinum Ring – SOLD: $75,000
Emerald-cut diamond weighing 5.62 carats, I Color, VS1 Clarity

Tap here to review the entire auction catalogue at Heritage Auctions!