Large 15 mm natural button pearls - image from Christie's

Natural Pearls Riding High on the Wave at Christie’s NY Magnificent Jewels!

Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report

At Christie’s New York live Magnificent Jewels auction on June 11, 2024, we noticed that Natural Pearls did very very well (when compared to the estimates)! Natural pearls have been riding high on the wave for several years now, and if we are not mistaken, they seem to have crested into a consistently higher demand.

Let’s take a look at a few auction pieces:

Starting off with single strands, Lots 71, 75 and 107 all sold well over estimates.

Lot 71, an 18 inch graduated knotted strand of natural pearls, measuring 9.80 mm. to 5.23 mm., enhanced with a marquise-cut diamond and platinum clasp, signed Tiffany & Co. The pearls are accompanied by a GIA report, dated 2024, report no. 2235186716, noting 61 natural saltwater pearls, with no indications of treatment.

Lot 71, strand of natural pearls, a nice graduating strand from 9.8 to 5.23 mm.
Clasp stamped Tiffany & Co.

Estimated at $30,000 – $50,000, the necklace sold for $201,600, over 4 times the high estimate.


Lot 75, a 16.25 inch graduated knotted strand of natural and cultured pearls ranging from approximately 12.20 mm. to 7.25 mm., accented by old-cut diamonds and platinum clasp. The pearl necklace is accompanied by an SSEF report, dated 2023, report no. 134501, noting 32 natural saltwater pearls, and 11 cultured saltwater pearls. The SSEF report notates which pearls are cultured, mostly near the clasp, and more than likely measuring from 7.25 mm. to approximately 8 mm. All of the pearls in the front of the necklace are natural.

Lot 75, strand of natural (32) and cultured (11) pearls, measuring 8 mm for the center pearl, and measuring 7.25 mm for the rest of the strand.
The 11 cultured pearls are located in the necklace towards the back clasp.

Estimated to sell between $50,000 and $70,000, the (mostly) natural pearl strand sold for $378,000, over 5 times the high estimate!


And last in the natural single strand necklaces, Lot 107 is an 18 inch graduated natural and cultured pearls necklace ranging from approximately 10.95 mm. to 6.35 mm., accented by a marquise shape brilliant, surrounded by single-cut and bullet-shaped diamonds, in platinum, circa 1930. The pearl necklace is accompanied by an SSEF report, dated 2024, report no. 137829, noting 48 natural saltwater pearls and 5 cultured saltwater pearls, accompanied by a copy of a diagram of the necklace, created by SSEF. Interestingly enough, the large central pearls are mostly cultured pearls! (see SSEF report)

Estimated to sell between $100,000 and $150,000, the necklace sold for $302,400, twice the high estimate.

Of the seven central pearls, four of them are cultured, and yet the strand still sold for twice the high estimate (48 natural pearls of approximately 6.5 mm).
SSEF Report showing Cultured Pearls amongst the Natural Pearls, with four of the largest pearls identified as Cultured.
This did affect the overall value of the necklace, but even with that, the number of Natural Pearls was significant enough to warrant the $300,000 selling price.

There were also two sets of Natural pearl earrings that sold at Christie’s.

Let’s begin with Lot #78 (left), matching drop pearls, measuring approximately 18.5 mm high, and weighing 16.09 and 15.14 carats, suspended from baguette and round diamonds, in platinum. Estimated to sell between USD 50,000 and USD 70,000, the pair of drop natural pearl earrings sold for USD 182,700, over twice the high estimate.

Lot #83 (right), is a pair of large matching button shape natural pearls, slightly baroque measuring approximately 14.80 – 15.25 x 13.20 mm and 14.80 – 15.55 x 12.00 mm, accented by round diamonds, and set in white gold. The earrings are accompanied by an SSEF report stating that the pearls are “natural pearls, saltwater.”

Estimated to sell between USD 20,000 and USD 30,000, the large button earrings sold for USD 277,200 – NINE times the high estimate!!


What About the May 27 Hong Kong Auction?

Sales of natural pearl jewels in Hong Kong appear to be near or at estimated values. If we are to somehow compare the sales from HK and NY, it appears that the estimates in Hong Kong are simply closer to what the market is anticipating. We shall keep a close eye on the results from upcoming Hong Kong and New York auctions.

NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND EARRINGS
As an example, Lot #1861, a pair of drop-shaped natural pearls measuring approximately 18 mm tall (10.4 – 10.5 x 18.7 mm and 10.3 -10.5 x 17.8 mm,) highlighted by cushion brilliant-cut diamonds of 1.10 and 1.01 carat, and accented by round diamond melee, all set in platinum. Estimated to sell between HKD 800,000 and HKD 1,200,000, sold for HKD 1,260,000 – at the high estimate (and very similar to the 18.5 mm drops – Lot #78 – from New York).

Roskin Gem News Report
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