The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) has announced the winners of the 2023 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards, and they are all spectacular!
This year’s competition took place Oct. 24–25 in Dallas, Texas, home of the AGTA. Judging took place over two days early in the week. Jewelry, fashion, and gem trade editors were invited for the final two days of the week to look over the entire collection including all of the award winning pieces.
Judges this year included Allan Koo, A. Koo & Co.; Brent Malgarin, Elegant Gems, Ltd.; Christina Gandia Gambale, Greenwich St. Jewelers; Lika Behar, Lika Behar Jewelry; and Clayton Bromberg, Underwood’s Jewelers (Jacksonville, Fla.).
“The 2023 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards have a new home and a new vibe!” says Kimberly Collins, owner of Kimberly Collins Colored Gems and president of the AGTA board of directors. “Our judges were amazing and worked so well together. They seem to be extremely on the same page with the selections they made. As always, the integrity of the judging competition is of the upmost importance. I felt the winners had a classic, timeless aesthetic this year. I’m so proud to be part of a judging competition that holds itself to the most stringent standards.”
“It was an intense yet incredibly interesting experience,” says judge Lika Behar. “I think I just about used every single usable brain cell I have during the judging process. I savored every minute of analyzing beautifully cut gems, amazing colors, and exquisitely crafted pieces of jewelry. The time was limited which made me focus and work through the entries as efficiently as possible. (I work well under pressure and decide quickly so it worked out.)” And with five judges, one would expect several differences of opinion, yes? “As far as unanimity of opinions of the judges, in most cases our opinions were surprisingly similar. Beauty outshines!”
“It was an amazing experience being a judge,” says judge Christina Gandia Gambale. “To see the best of the best in one room was incredible.”
“I was very, very impressed with how the awards were run. John and Kim, as well as the rest of the board, went above and beyond to make the judging process thorough and impartial. There was zero influence from either the other judges, the AGTA team, or even the entries as everything was 100% anonymous with even jewelry stamps being carefully covered. The voting process was also done electronically which made it easy to get through so many amazing pieces.”
“The multiple rounds of judging and elimination made it near impossible for there to be a five way split, with us having to give final round entries grades in everything from rarity, to design to manufacturing, etc. The winners really stole the hearts and eyes of everyone and once they were announced, we were able to candidly discuss our opinions with our co-judges, which reinforced the results.”
“The most challenging part was when we had to pick Best in Show. It was very difficult to select one entry when each shined in their own right. While previously there was only one Best in Show, the judges requested that we have one Best in Show for each award: Spectrum and Cutting Edge. We felt that since each Award should have one winner which equally measured their strengths against their opponents. Thankfully we were granted our request and we do hope that this is a new tradition.”
Hundreds of entries filled the judging tables, 24% more pieces than last year, with a 28% increase in the Business/Day Wear category, and a 26% increase in the Evening Wear category.
“This year’s Awards are one of our best ever,” says CEO John W. Ford Sr. “We had an additional 100 entries this year over last, and many of them had stunning green and blue-green gems. The Omni Hotels are the new home of the Awards for the next few years, and we hope to take the competition national to other Omni venues.”
Top winners included Niveet Nagpal, from Omi Privé, who took First Place & Best of Show in Spectrum for his Platinum ring featuring a 15.22 ct. black Opal, accented with Paraiba Tourmalines, Tsavorite Garnets, and Diamonds in Evening Wear, along with a Second Place win in Bridal Wear, and a First Place win in Men’s Wear.
In Cutting Edge, Best of Show & First Place, Best of Single Entries in Pairs & Suites, the awards went to Joseph Ambalu, from Amba Gem Corp for his magnificent matching suite of 4 oval Paraíba-type Tourmalines.
Top winners also included Jeffrey Bilgore, from Jeffrey Bilgore LLC, taking home six (yes, 6) Spectrum awards with Best Use of Color (1) & Platinum Innovation (2) for his platinum and sapphire bracelet, Best of Fashion Forward (3), a First Place win in Classical (4), Classical Platinum Honors (5) for his platinum and sapphire choker, and Platinum Innovation in Men’s Wear (6).
What does it feel like to win?
“I was introduced to this beautiful opal earlier this year,” says Niveet Nagpal, Best of Show Spectrum winner. “I immediately fell in love. It really spoke to me.” It obviously spoke to the judges. It is a fantastic piece! “I was particularly drawn to the ‘Caribbean Ocean blue’ within the opal. I knew right away it would be a special piece, and that the opal would be embellished with paraiba tourmaline.”
The tourmalines matched the opal’s blue, while the tsavorites matched the opal’s greens. And once everything was laid out, there it was. “I knew this would be a special piece, and we would have a chance to win an AGTA Spectrum Award.”
Getting the phone call from AGTA to tell you that your piece has won is one of the highlights of the competition. “I received a call from John Ford [AGTA CEO] and Kimberly Collins [AGTA President] that we had won 3 awards, and that the opal ring was Best of Show!! I was speechless!”
“Winning Best of Show is an incredible honor,” says a grateful Nagpal. Like many of us, he grew up in the gemstone business. “To do something you love and are so passionate about every day is already a blessing, but to receive the Best of Show is the ultimate validation! I am so happy and proud of my team who work hard every day to help turn my dreams into a reality.”
“It is humbling!” says Jeff Bilgore after winning six Spectrum Awards. Six! “I guess it’s kind of cliché to say that, but it’s really beyond belief!” Bilgore has been in the gem industry since 1980, working in many different capacities. And now it’s as if all the stars have aligned.
So what’s the secret to his latest wins? “I took the stones out of the safe and just started making my tweezers work,” says Bilgore. And work well, they did. But no one says it’s easy. “The biggest challenge today for designers is that people look at fine jewelry and say, ‘where am I going to wear it?’ So, you’ve got to come up with something that can be elegant and still wearable.”
Bilgore has now won two years in a row in the Fashion Forward category, this year for a piece that complements the one from last year. “It’s unimaginable!” exclaims Bilgore. “I still can’t believe it.” His six wins this year means he has won eleven awards over the past two years. Believe it, Jeff – It is truly remarkable!
And now, for the Big List of Winners!
Congratulations to all!
Best of Awards
Best of Show – Two Winners This Year!
And in the Bridal Wear Category …
In Business/Day Wear
In the Classical Category
Fashion Forward
In the Evening Wear Category …
In the Men’s Wear Category …
In the Editor’s Choice Category
Winners of the 2023 AGTA Cutting Edge Awards are:
All Other Cut Gemstones
Carving
In the Classic Gemstone Category…
In the Innovative Faceting Category …
In the North American Mined Gemstones Category …
In the Objects of Art Category …
In the Pairs & Suites Category …
And in the Phenomenal Category …
Editors covering the awards were, Left to Right: Jennifer Heebner, ePrism Editor-in-Chief,Amy Elliott, JCK contributing editor, Brecken Branstrator, G.G. (GIA) the GemGuide Editor-in-Chief, Benjamin Guttery, G.G. (GIA) freelance writer, Becky Stone, jewelry writer, Darshan Gress, personal stylist, Kyle Roderick, Bijoux Review, Gary Roskin, G.G. (GIA), FGA, Roskin Gem News Report Editor-in-Chief, and David Brough, Jewellery Outlook founder & editor.
*Judging Guidelines
AGTA Spectrum Awards entries are judged on overall beauty and wearability, innovative design, effective use of materials, quality of gemstones, quality of workmanship, broad‐based consumer appeal and potential to generate positive publicity for natural colored gemstones.
AGTA Cutting Edge Awards honor excellence and creativity in lapidary arts, including natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls, carvings and other gem materials.
Platinum Honors, sponsored by Platinum Guild International (PGI), recognizes the outstanding use of platinum in colored gemstone and/or cultured pearl jewelry in 11 Spectrum Awards categories and for the Platinum Honors Innovation Awards in Bridal Wear, Business/Day Wear, Evening Wear, Classical, and Men’s. Platinum Innovation. PGI also awards two “Best of” awards – Best Use of Platinum and Color and Best Use of Platinum Crown.
WJA Gem DIVA Awards, sponsored by the Women’s Jewelry Association, grants awards in the Bridal Wear, Evening Wear, Classical and Business/Day Wear categories. All women who enter the AGTA Spectrum Awards competition are eligible for this category.
Manufacturing Honors recognizes outstanding use of colored gemstones and cultured pearls along with exceptional design in jewelry that can be readily manufactured for high volume (repeatable) distribution and sale. All designs that qualify for judging in the AGTA Spectrum Awards competition will also automatically be qualified for Manufacturing Honors judging.
Fashion Forward Honors recognizes the outstanding use of colored gemstone and/or cultured pearl in artful, trend‐setting jewelry. All designs that qualify for judging in the AGTA Spectrum Awards competition are eligible for Fashion Forward Honors judging.
AGTA would like to thank their sponsors this year, including the Omni Hotels, Platinum Guild International, and the Women’s Jewelry Association.