Roskin Gem News Report

$155,552,014! Auction Results Top Estimate, Even Before Day 2

Record Broken

The anticipated auction results of $150 million for the private collection of Heidi Horten, Christie’s Geneva, has already been topped, and the second day of the auction is Friday!

Promoted as an “unparalleled jewellery collection,” and estimated to over take the record set by the private collection of Elizabeth Taylor, Christie’s 2011, at $116 million, this collection has already lived up to its potential.

Proceeds to Benefit the Arts, Medical Research, Child Welfare, and Holocaust Education

After Christie’s Auction House announced the upcoming record breaking sale of Heidi Horten’s personal jewelry collection, the New York Times published an article about Helmut Horten’s controversial ties to WWII atrocities. By writing about the gemological importance of this collection, I am not ignoring this upsetting association. I am very much aware of the deep wounds that the Horten history open. If history is forgotten, it will repeat itself.
The sole purpose of this report is to share my appreciation for the extraordinary gemological significance of this collection, and to share that with my readers.
It is my sincere hope that the Horten Foundation and Christie’s Auction House follow through with their philanthropic promises to help those in need.

Day 1, the MVP – Most Valuable Pieces

Lot #96

Topping the price paid on Day 1, Lot #96, the ‘THE SUNRISE RUBY’ a sensational Cartier ruby and diamond ring, estimated value between 14 and 18 million CHF, sold for USD$14,681,130 (13,055,000 CHF), 7% below the low estimate (USD$15,744,582)

Even though it did not make the minimum estimated bid, do not be disappointed in the ring. This really is a magnificent gem, a Burmese Ruby, no evidence of heat treatment to enhance its color, and 25.59 carats.

Lot #43

Doubling the high estimate, in second place for the highest price paid, Lot #43, the Fancy Intense Pink emerald-cut diamond, 6.99 carats, accented by baguette-cut diamonds, set in platinum, that sold for USD$10,284,604 (9,145,000 CHF).

This collection is full of pink diamonds. Here we have a 6.99 carats, VVS1 Potentially Internally Flawless, emerald cut, graded Fancy Intense ” Pink. Straight pink – no modifier.

6.99 carats? I would assume that the cutter was working to get an Internally Flawless at 7.00 carats but couldn’t quite make it. So now that weight is already below 7 carats, and not really a stopping point, why not re-polish and go for the Internally Flawless. Or are you one to say, “leave it as is, as I will be wearing it and may accidentally bruise it.”

Lot #45

The jewel with the third highest paid hammer price was an exquisite three strand natural pearl necklace with an 11 carat Fancy Light Pink diamond clasp. The pearls range in size from 14 mm down to 7.5 mm, well-matched in color and luster, with one pearl identified as being cultured. Estimated to sell between 6,400,000 CHF and 9,300,000 CHF, the necklace sold below the estimated value, at 6,458,000 CHF.

SENSATIONAL HARRY WINSTON NATURAL AND CULTURED PEARL AND COLOURED DIAMOND NECKLACE
Three strands of graduated natural pearls ranging approximately from 14.00 to 7.50 mm, one cultured pearl, fancy light pink cushion modified brilliant-cut diamond of 11.15 carats, 18k white gold, maker’s mark (Jacques Timey).

Here again we notice a pink diamond. This time graded Fancy Light Pink.

Lot #46

MAGNIFICENT HARRY WINSTON ‘BRIOLETTE OF INDIA’ DIAMOND AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Briolette-cut diamond of 90.36 carats, marquise and pear-shaped diamonds, platinum, two parts of the neckchain are detachable and may be worn as a short necklace, briolette pendant detachable, unsigned, one extension with maker’s mark (Jacques Timey)

The Briolette has a lot of history, with some legend dating it back to the 12th Century. But that is just legend. It was cut and polished in France in roughly 1908 – 1909.

Yesterday at auction, it sold for CHF 6,337,000, far below the low estimate of 9 million CHF.

Briolette-cut diamond acquired by Cartier in 1909
By repute sold to Mrs. George Blumenthal in 1911, later acquired by Harry Winston in 1946 and allegedly sold to a Maharaja in 1947
Repurchased by Harry Winston and sold to Mrs. I.W. Killam
Upon her death Harry Winston purchased her entire jewellery collection, including the Briolette of India, in 1967
Acquired by Heidi Horten in the current design at Harry Winston in 1971

The diamond measures 1 3/4 inches tall. (44mm, 4.4cm)

LITERATURE

L.S. Krashes, Harry Winston: A Story Told in Diamonds, Gems & Gemology, Spring 1983, Vol. 19, No. 1, pp. 22-23, ill.1
H. Nadelhoffer, Cartier, Editions du Regard, Paris, 1984, p. 288, ill. 153
L.S. Krashes, Harry Winston, The Ultimate Jeweler, Ronald Winston, Editor, pp. 48-49

Lot #21


MORE FROM

DETAILS

EXCEPTIONAL BULGARI JADEITE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Twenty-five jadeite beads measuring approximately from 21.10 to 15.90 mm, carved jadeite, round diamonds, 18k white gold, unsigned, clasp later replaced

Price sold: CHF 4,885,000, Estimated at between CHF 2,700,000 – CHF 4,500,000
Selling for just above the high estimate, it is a wonderful translucent, matching large beads, Jadeite necklace.


HK Jade & Stone Lab, 2023, report no. KJ 105198(1-3): natural colour Fei Cui (Jadeite Jade), without resin
SSEF, 2009, report no. 54539: 25 jadeite-jade beads, for a total weight of 1’421.362 carats, Burma (Myanmar), no indications of any treatment, Type A

Lot #88

Sold for CHF 4,582,500

Estimated at between CHF 4,500,000 and CHF 6,400,000

EXCEPTIONAL BULGARI COLOURED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND BROOCH

Yes it is! A Fancy Intense Orange pear shape brilliant-cut diamond, 5.14 carats, a Fancy Intense Purple-Pink modified heart portrait-cut diamond of 5.00 carats, a Fancy Blue marquise brilliant-cut diamond of 4.26 carats, and a Fancy Intense Yellow marquise brilliant-cut diamond of 3.82 carats, baguette-cut and round diamonds, platinum and 18k white gold (Italian marks), signed Bvlgari

A Fancy Intense Orange is extremely rare! Yellowish-Orange, Brownish-Orange … these are much more common (still rare, but we hardly ever see a straight Orange color call. And large! For an Orange diamond. 5.14 carats. The pin is worth having just for that stone alone!

[The only thing wrong with this pin is that it is hanging upside down. [see smaller image] With quick use of PhotoShop, the pin (and modified heart shape) are now right-side up. – gr]

The Fancy Intense Purple-Pink is a great color too, having an equal part of purple and pink.

GIA, 2023, report no. 11346236: 5.14 carats, Pear Shape Fancy Intense Orange, natural colour, I1 clarity, faint fluorescence
GIA, 2023, report no. 11699023: 5.00 carats, Modified Heart Portrait Cut Fancy Intense Purple-Pink, natural colour, SI2 clarity, faint fluorescence
GIA, 2023, report no. 10165806: 4.26 carats, Marquise Fancy Blue, natural colour, VS1 clarity
GIA, 2023, report no. 10165863: 3.82 carats, Marquise Fancy Intense Yellow, natural colour, SI1 clarity, faint fluorescence
Accompanied by original drawing by Bulgari

Size/Dimensions: 8.2 cm (3.25 inches)
Gross weight: 49.0 grams

Lot #54

Sold for under the Low estimated value, at CHF 4,280,000

Estimated between CHF 4,500,000 and CHF 6,300,000

RARE COLOURED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING
Fancy pink pear modified brilliant-cut diamond of 20.06 carats, round diamonds, 18k white and yellow gold

Again, we have yet another Pink diamond in the collection, and this time, it is big! 20 carats! A bit of an odd shape, one can only assume that the rough dictated the look.

GIA, 2023, report no. 6227870051: 20.06 carats, Modified Pear Shape Fancy Pink, natural colour, VVS2 clarity, medium orange fluorescence, Type IIa

PROVENANCE

Pink diamond originally acquired at Harry Winston in 2001
Mounted by Cecile von Croy in 2020

Lot #95

EXCEPTIONAL HARRY WINSTON DIAMOND BRACELET/TIARA

A stunning piece, but sold for far less than the low estimated value at CHF 3,191,000

Estimated between CHF 4,500,000 and CHF 6,400,000

EXCEPTIONAL HARRY WINSTON DIAMOND BRACELET/TIARA
Pear brilliant-cut diamonds of 14.26, 12.66, 12.05, 10.79, 8.08, 7.16, 6.72 and 5.02 carats, pear modified brilliant-cut diamond of 9.78 carats, round and pear-shaped diamonds, platinum, unsigned, maker’s mark (Jacques Timey), numbered (partially indistinct), with 18k white gold and resin tiara fitting

9 pear shape diamonds all weighing over 5 carats each, ranging in size up to 14.26 carats! And it can be worn as either a bracelet or as a tiara.

9 GIA reports, 2023: 14.26 to 5.02 carats, D to E colour, VVS1 to VVS2 clarity. All Type IIa, apart from diamond of 9.78 carats
5 GIA reports, 1994 – 2001: 1.27 to 1.01 carats, E to G colour, Internally Flawless to VS2 clarity
Accompanied by 6 copies of drawings by Monsieur Alexandre presenting different hairstyles for wearing the tiara

Size/Dimensions: bracelet 20.0 cm; tiara inner circumference 44.0 cm
Gross weight: 79.5 grams (excluding tiara fitting); 122.6 grams (including tiara fitting)

Lot #93

Also selling for under the lower estimated value, at CHF 3,796,000

Estimated at between CHF 4,500,000 and CHF 6,400,000


MAGNIFICENT DIAMOND NECKLACE
Pear brilliant-cut diamonds of 23.07, 12.16, 9.74, 9.60, 8.86, 8.76, 6.35, 6.03, 4.04 and 3.66 carats, pear modified brilliant-cut of 14.64 round, pear and marquise-shaped diamonds, platinum and 18k white gold, numbered.

Definitely a statement piece, only this time we see a pendant necklace set with 11 pear shape brilliants, all over 3 carats each, but with the center weighing 23.07 carats!

11 GIA reports, 2023: 23.07 to 3.66 carats, D to G colour, VVS1 to VS1 clarity. Six diamonds Type IIa, one diamond Type Ia, one diamond Type IIb

PROVENANCE

A large amount of diamonds in this necklace originate from a similar necklace acquired at Cartier in 1970
Redesigned by Harry Winston with additional diamonds

Lot #68

It’s all about design and use of color. Love the detail in the chain! Now THAT is craftsmanship!

Estimated value between CHF 2,200,000 and CHF 3,200,000

Selling price: CHF 2,707,000

EXCEPTIONALLY RARE VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ART DECO EGYPTIAN REVIVAL MULTI-GEM SAUTOIR
Cabochon and old-cut rubies, cabochon emeralds, onyx panels, old, single and rose-cut diamonds, platinum and 18k white gold (French marks), 1924, signed Van Cleef & Arpels Paris, numbered

Size/Dimensions: pendant 11.0 cm; necklace 75.5 cm
Gross weight: 91.9 grams

PROVENANCE – It has been up for auction a couple of times previously …
Christie’s, Geneva, 17 November 1998, sale 1254, lot 230
Christie’s, Geneva, 13 November 2018, sale 16112, lot 300

Lot #94

EXTRAORDINARY BULGARI DIAMOND EARRINGS

Extraordinarily large! 20 carat drops with 4 carat heart shapes! You may need reinforced earlobes for these!

Estimated value between CHF 2,700,000 – CHF 4,500,000
Sold for CHF 2,586,000

Pear shape brilliant-cut diamonds of 21.20 and 20.42 carats, with heart shape brilliant-cut diamonds of 4.11 and 4.07 carats,
platinum and 18k white gold, signed Bvlgari

GIA, 2023, report no. 10383209: 21.20 carats, D colour, VS1 clarity, potentially Internally Flawless, excellent polish and symmetry, Type IIa
GIA, 2023, report no. 10490678: 20.42 carats, D colour, VVS2 clarity, excellent polish and symmetry, Type IIa
GIA, 2023, report no. 10353582: 4.11 carats, D colour, VVS1 clarity, potentially Internally Flawless
GIA, 2023, report no. 10888123: 4.07 carats, D colour, VVS1 clarity, potentially Internally Flawless

Lot #79

UNIQUE BULGARI SAPPHIRE, COLOURED SAPPHIRE, EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE

This is worth taking a look at the three main center stones: a cushion-shaped modified brilliant-cut blue sapphire of 37.84 carats, a 33.59 carat unheated Sri Lankan Padparadscha sapphire, and a Colombian emerald of 33.20 carats, signed Bvlgari, numbered, green Bvlgari fitted case

Sold for DOUBLE the High Estimated Value at CHF 2,586,000

Estimated between CHF 900,000 – CHF 1,350,000

SSEF, 2023, report no. 128139: sapphire with a declared weight of 37.84 carats, Madagascar, no indications of heating; padparadscha sapphire with a declared weight of 33.59 carats, Ceylon (Sri Lanka), no indications of heating; emerald with a declared weight of 33.20 carats, Colombia, minor amount of artificial resin in fissures
4 GIA reports, 2006-2011: 2.85 to 1.51 carats, D to E colour, VVS2 to VS2 clarity
Accompanied by design by Bulgari

Lot #66

Another Large Pink Diamond!

Sold for CHF 2,586,000

Estimated between CHF 1,800,000 and CHF 2,700,000

COLOURED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING
Fancy pink heart shape brilliant-cut diamond of 12.27 carats, pear-shaped and round diamonds, 18k white and rose gold, signed Croy

GIA, 2023, report no. 15154372: 12.27 carats, Fancy Pink, natural colour, VVS1 clarity, Type IIa

Lot #63

A wonderful very rare double strand of natural “black” pearls,
Sold for CHF 2,525,500

Estimated value between CHF 2,700,000 and CHF 4,500,000

KERN MAGNIFICENT COLOURED NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Two strands of graduated light grey to grey and greyish brown natural pearls ranging approximately from 16.35 to 5.80 mm, pear-shaped diamond of 2.94 carats, platinum, clasp signed Kern

SSEF, 2023, report no. 128105: 98 natural pearls, saltwater, no indications of artificial colour modification (based on sampling), with Appendix letter attesting the exceptionality and rarity of these pearls

Lot #52

FINE COLOURED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND RING
Fancy intense blue square emerald-cut diamond of 3.06 carats, round diamonds, 18k white gold, signed Croy

Sold for CHF 2,465,000

Estimated value between CHF 1,350,000 and CHF 2,300,000

GIA, 2023, report no. 2223876803: 3.06 carats, Fancy Intense Blue, natural colour, SI2 clarity

PROVENANCE

Blue diamond originally acquired at Harry Winston in 2001

And last but certainly not least ….

Lot #64

DIAMOND RING
Almost 40 carats!
Pear shape brilliant-cut diamond of 39.82 carats, tapered baguette-cut diamonds, 18k white gold

sold for CHF 2,041,500

Estimates value between CHF 1,800,000 and CHF 2,700,000

GIA, 2023, report no. 11306525: 39.82 carats, D colour, VVS1 clarity, Type IIa

MORE FROM THE COLLECTION ON CHRISTIE’S AUCTION HOUSE WEBSITE: TAP HERE.

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