The March 27 Hong Kong Jewels auction at Phillips Auction House is taking place as we are finishing up the details of our report! There are some exceptional pieces that we wanted to point out and we will add the final sale prices as we can.
First on our sights, lot #597, a ruby and diamond bracelet, set with 33 no heat Burmese rubies – more than half of the rubies weigh over 1 carat each. This is a very special collection!
Ruby and Diamond Bracelet
Estimate: HK$4,700,000 – 6,700,000 — PULLED (Was not offered at the time of the auction.)
€577,000 – 822,000
$600,000 – 860,000
Auction description: Set with thirty-three graduated cushion-shaped and oval rubies weighing 33.66 carats in total, each embellished with pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum and yellow gold, length approximately 175 mm.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 25021088, stating that two rubies tested are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; also accompanied by thirty three GIA gemmological reports, all stating that the rubies are all Burmese, with no evidence of heat.
… and now we have Lot #592, an emerald and diamond ring. Of course, look at that emerald! 13.65 carats, Colombian, with only minor enhancement. The 2+ carat diamonds on the sides compliment the size of the emerald quite nicely. All in all, it makes for a very impressive ring.
Emerald and Diamond Ring
Estimate: HK$3,500,000 – 5,000,000
€430,000 – 614,000
$450,000 – 650,000
Auction description: Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 13.65 carats, between two rectangular step-cut diamonds weighing 2.56 and 2.41 carats, mounted in platinum, French assay mark, size 6¼.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 139312, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with indications of clarity modification, minor amount of oil in fissures at the time of testing. Also accompanied by with two GIA reports. no. 1236233308 and no. 2235233310, stating that the 2.56 and 2.41 carat diamonds are both F Colour, VS1 and SI2 Clarity respectively.
Lot 608, an impressive pair of Burmese oval unheated sapphires, each set with pear shape and marquise shape diamond surrounds. The photo offers a nicely matched pair, of classic Burma saturated medium to dark blue color. (note: SSEF called both sapphires Burmese, but the Gübelin Gem Lab was uncertain of one country of origin. This sort of thing happens on occasion. Country of origin is not an easy determination. – gr)
Pair of Sapphire and Diamond Earrings
Estimate: HK$2,100,000 – 3,000,000
€259,000 – 369,000
$270,000 – 385,000
Auction description: Each set with an oval sapphire weighing 9.87 and 8.59 carats, within a surround of pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds, mounted in white gold, post and hinged back fittings, length approximately 29 mm.
Accompanied by two SSEF reports no. 122003 and no. 129525, stating that both sapphires are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Further accompanied by two Gübelin reports no. 23091018 and no. 23121135, stating that the 8.59 carat sapphire is of Burmese origin and the 9.87 carat sapphire with origin not determinable, both sapphires with no indications of heating.
Wow! Not THAT is Vivid! Lot 590, Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond. This is a great picture, showing the face-up appearance of the diamond, with its obvious saturated color. Vivid diamonds should, by definition, project its color for quite some distance. And if you are one for detail, note that the diamond was graded as having Excellent Polish. That deserves another Wow!
Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring
Estimate: HK$1,750,000 – 2,800,000
€215,000 – 344,000
$220,000 – 350,000
Auction description: Set with a square emerald-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 5.51 carats, between two tapered baguette diamonds, mounted in white and yellow gold, size 6.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 5234361204, stating that the 5.51 carat diamond is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Colour, VS2 Clarity, Excellent Polish.
Next on our sights, lot 541, a sapphire and diamond ring. Again, the photograph leads us to expect Ceylon, and the laboratory confirms our guess. GRS and GIA both identify country of origin to be Sri Lanka, with no evidence of heat treatment. It’s size is also impressive, almost coming in at 25 carats, weighing 24.44 carats.
Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Estimate: HK$780,000 – 980,000 – DNS PASS
€96,100 – 121,000
$100,000 – 126,000
Auction description: Set with an oval sapphire weighing 24.44 carats, within a brilliant-cut diamond surround, mounted in platinum, size 7.
Accompanied by two gemmological reports.
– Please refer to GRS report no. GRS2025-018120 for further information, dated 7 January 2025, the sapphire is of Sri Lankan origin, with no indication of thermal treatment
– Please refer go GIA report no. 6482732607 for further information, dated 18 March 2024, the sapphire is of Sri Lankan origin, with no indications of heating
This next Lot, #535, displays a nice suite of tourmaline, with the center weighing 8.82 carats. This has good depth of color, without obvious heavy inclusions, so it will be interesting to see how values are holding for the Mozambique material.
Paraíba-Type Tourmaline and Diamond Pendent Necklace/ Ring
Estimate: HK$650,000 – 850,000 — DNS PASS
€79,800 – 104,000
$83,000 – 110,000
Auction description: Set with an oval Paraíba-type tourmaline weighing 8.82 carats, to the oval diamond surround and diamond-set surmount, joined by double oval-link chain highlighted with collet-set Paraíba-type tourmalines and diamonds, mounted in white gold, pendant length approximately 27 mm, link chain length approximately 400 mm, pendant detachable and accompanied by a white gold ring fitting.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 24051116, stating that the Paraíba-type tourmaline is of Mozambican origin, with indications of heating.
Beautiful flame spinels will always be sought after. Great vivid color, and a very durable stone. Lot #542, an 8 carat spinel set with diamonds.
Spinel and Diamond Ring/ Pendant
Estimate: HK$420,000 – 600,000 — SOLD HK$571,500
€51,600 – 73,600
$54,000 – 77,000
Set with a cushion-shaped spinel weighing 8.14 carats, between marquise- and pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in white gold, size 6¾.
Accompanied by a gemmological report. Also accompanied by two GIA dossiers, stating that two marquise-shaped diamonds weighing 0.23 carat each are E and F Colour respectively, both VVS2 Clarity.
Lot #553, listed as the “Property of a Gentleman,” is a fantastic carved Type A jadeite jade happy buddha. He’s good size – 34x44mm (about 1.3×1.7 inches), and has a very nice translucent even texture. Color is a strong green.
Jadeite and Diamond Pendent Necklace
Estimate: HK$380,000 – 650,000 — SOLD HK$406,400
€46,800 – 80,000
$50,000 – 83,000
Set with a carved jadeite buddha, measuring approximately 33.96 x 43.91 x 5.03 mm, of intense green colour and very good translucency, decorated with brilliant-cut diamond gallery, surmount and rondelle, to a black cord with white gold finals, mounted in white gold, pendant length approximately 40 mm, cord maximum length approximately 680 mm.
Accompanied by Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory certificate no. SJ 239175, stating that the jadeite is natural jadeite and no resin is detected.
– Please refer to Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory certificates no. SJ 239175 for further information, dated 15 January 2015, the jadeite is Type A jadeite, natural colour without any resins
– Jadeite of intense green colour and very good translucency, under strong illumination and close inspection, there are some green streaks
Lot #512 is a VCA cultured pearl and diamond brooch. The popularity of the brooch has grown so much over the past decade, especially since men have been wearing them on the red carpet. The size of the brooch, the quality of the design, and the color, lustre, and size of the cultured pearl, all gives this brooch very strong appeal.
Van Cleef & Arpels
Cultured Pearl and Diamond Brooch
Estimate: HK$280,000 – 400,000 — SOLD HK$254,000
€33,100 – 47,300
$36,000 – 50,000
– Pearl approximately 17.10 x 14.45 x 13.35 mm, of white bodycolour with pink and green overtones, good lustre, minor blemishes
– Diamonds gauged to weigh approximately 10.50-11.50 carats in total, mainly F-G Colour, VS Clarity
– Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. N.Y. 29647
– Tested as white gold
– Length approximately 72 mm
Lot #595, listed as “Property of a Lady,” is a Cartier sapphire ring. The image of the cushion sapphire shows a body color with a silky, sleepy texture, exactly what one would expect of a Kashmir sapphire. The Gübelin Gem Lab has identified the sapphire as having a Kashmir origin, with no evidence of heat treatment.
Cartier
Sapphire Ring
Estimate: HK$250,000 – 450,000
€30,800 – 55,400
$32,100 – 57,700
Auction description: Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing approximately 2.00 carats, mounted in yellow gold, signed Cartier, numbered, French assay mark, size 6.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 25011130, stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. Also accompanied by a gemmological report.
And now the last on our list, lot #515, an alexandrite and diamond ring. The images show the ring in two different lighting environments so you can see the color change. This specific color change, a teal green-blue to a raspberry slightly reddish-purple, is very indicative of the Brazilian material. What makes this piece so incredibly special are the large number of matching ovals, with the show-stopping alexandrite cat’s-eye, having a nearly perfectly straight eye!
Cat’s Eye Alexandrite Chrysoberyl, Alexandrite Chrysoberyl and Diamond Ring
Estimate: HK$120,000 – 200,000 — SOLD HK$165,000
€14,700 – 24,500
$15,000 – 25,000
Auction description: Of floral design, centering upon a cabochon cat’s eye alexandrite chrysoberyl weighing 2.57 carats, petals set with oval alexandrite chrysoberyls and brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, size 6¼.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 20081102, stating that the cat’s eye alexandrite chrysoberyl is of Brazilian origin, with no indications of treatment.
– Please refer to Gübelin report no. 20081102 for further information, dated 25 August 2020, the cat’s eye alexandrite chrysoberyl is of Brazilian origin, with no indications of treatment
– Cat’s eyes alexandrite chrysoberyl displays strong colour change, from brownish-bluish-green in daylight to purple under incandescent light, cat’s eyes well centred, distinct and display strong chatoyancy. Upon 10X magnification, there are a few typical inclusions but hardly noticeable with unaided eyes
– Stamped A2.57ct referring to the weight of the cat’s eye alexandrite chrysoberyl
– Stamped A3.04ct referring to the total weight of the alexandrite chrysoberyl of approximately 3.04 carats, eye clean and matching in colour, displays prominent colour change, from brownish-bluish-green colour in daylight to purple colour under incandescent light
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