Feeling the need to break away from the pack (or at least from its closest rival, Christie’s) Sotheby’s has changed the name of it’s Magnificent flagship jewelry sale in Geneva to The High Jewelry Auction.
This year’s High Jewelry Auction offered signed jewels from the world’s most esteemed Haute Joaillerie houses, vintage jewels, exceptional coloured stones and remarkable diamonds.
“We are particularly thrilled to announce that the sale will be headlined by The Mediterranean Blue, an exceptionally rare and magnificent Fancy Vivid Blue diamond weighing 10.03 carats. Named for its mesmerizing hue recalling the azure Mediterranean waters, this recently discovered diamond, polished as an elegant cushion-shape, stands as one of the most exciting coloured diamonds to be offered for sale at Sotheby’s in living memory.” The Mediterranean Blue pulled in a respectable 17,860,000 CH ($12.7 million).
Highlights from this auction seen here below are the following:
The showstopping 10-carat Mediterranean Blue diamond
The outstanding Trefoil Brooch with the Big Four – Kashmir Sapphire, Burmese Ruby, Colombian Emerald, and a Circular Brilliant Diamond
A good size Van Cleef & Arpels 26-carat Colombian Emerald Ring
An impressive 6-carat Burmese Ruby and Diamonds Ring
A 64-carat Ceylon Sapphire Pendant attention getter
A Graff Pink Diamond pendant necklace statement piece
A stunning 8-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond ring
A beautiful – yes, beautiful – 16-carat Fancy Deep Grayish Yellowish Green diamond ring
A fabulous Mauboussin gem set and diamond necklace
… and a dozen more! Including a conch pearl and diamond tiara, an incredible 10-carat red spinel, and a regal circa 1910 sapphire and diamond necklace!
So let’s get started!
The High Jewelry Auction
As for the name change, “Sotheby’s continually responds to the changing profiles and behaviors of the modern collector. To this end, our legendary Magnificent Jewels auctions have been renamed ‘High Jewelry,’ a title that aligns more closely with today’s increasingly digital marketplace. This change raises our online visibility, furthering our reach to new audiences and confirming our commitment to outstanding results. What remains unchanged, however, is the extraordinary quality and rarity of the jewels we offer and the superlative client experience provided by our specialists.”
The Mediterranean Blue
Lot Sold: 17,860,000 CHF ($12.7 million)
This incredible diamond was accompanied by a GIA report, no. 2233436003, dated 20 November 2024, stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Blue, Natural Colour, VS2 Clarity, together with a type IIb classification letter; further accompanied by GIA report no. 6237331096, dated 2 July 2024, pertaining to the 31.93 carat rough diamond from which the Mediterranean Blue originates, and a GIA monograph detailing the sources, chemistry and grading of blue diamonds and describing the Mediterranean Blue as “a remarkable example of one of the rarest colour sensations observed in a diamond.”
GemNote: List of inclusions include: Crystal, Feather, Needle, and certainly nothing that would distract from the Vivid Blue Color.
Type IIb – the diamond is colored by Boron.
Van Cleef & Arpels
Important Greek historical emerald and diamond ring, circa 1942
Estimate: 350,000 – 530,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 673,100 CHF – OPA!!
Important Greek historical Colombian emerald, 26.81 carats, and diamond ring, circa 1942
Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 26.81 carats, between baguette diamond shoulders, unsigned, numbered, with case stamped Van Cleef & Arpels.
This impressive Colombian emerald is accompanied by a Gübelin Gem Lab report, no. 25030041, dated 17 March 2025, and no. 23050074, dated 26 May 2023, each stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures; together with a copy of a Van Cleef & Arpels invoice duplicate, dated 20 February 2025, stating that the jewel was purchased at Van Cleef & Arpels New York on 1 April 1942.
History … from the Sotheby’s catalogue.
Formerly in the Collection of Kyriakos and Maria Venizelos
In 1942, this important emerald and diamond ring was acquired by Kyriacos Venizelos and his wife Maria at Van Cleef & Arpels in New York. Kyriacos was the son of the renowned Greek statesman Eleftherios Venizelos (1864-1936), who served as Prime Minister for seven times over the course of two decades. He is still unanimously accepted as the Greek nation’s Leader due to his reforms, donations to the Greek State, and the huge territorial gains for Greece, he managed to secure. His son was also elected Prime Minister of Greece, and his grandson – father of the owner of the ring – served as Vice President of the Greek Parliament.
Kyriakos Venizelos was a shipowner based in New York and was also elected as Member of the Parliament. His wife Maria, heiress of the shipping magnate Nikitas Roussos, was one of the richest women in the world during the 60’s and the 70’s.
There are thousands of roads and squares in Greece and Cannes France named after the Venizelos name, while the airport of Athens is also named ‘Eleftherios Venizelos’.
Superb sapphire, ruby, emerald and diamond pendant/brooch, late 19th-century and later
A fabulous foursome in a lucky three leaf clover!
Estimate: 280,000 – 500,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 685,800 CHF
Circular Brilliant Cut Diamonds
Designed as a trefoil, the leaves set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 5.96 carats, a similarly shaped emerald weighing 3.26 and an oval ruby weighing 5.06 carats respectively, centring a circular-cut diamond* weighing 2.29 carats, framed by circular-cut diamonds, bail detachable, brooch fitting and screwdriver, fitted case.
* The “Circular Brilliant” is a transitional cut, the step between Old European and Modern Round Brilliant. [For more detail on the Circular Brilliant, tap here!]
Kashmir Sapphire, Burmese Ruby, and Colombian Emerald!
The three leaf cover brooch comes with two gemological reports, one from SSEF, report no. 145394, dated 25 March 2025, and one from the Gübelin Gem Lab, report no. 25040029, dated 14 April 2025, each stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating, each stating ‘Royal Blue’ colour, together with an appendix letter; further accompanied by SSEF report no. 145399, dated 21 March 2025, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures; and SSEF report no. 145398, dated 21 March 2025, stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.
“Attractive” Ruby and Diamond Ring
Estimate: 280,000 – 480,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 279,400 CHF (Not quite the low estimate.)
Set with an oval ruby weighing 6.14 carats, between oval diamond shoulders.
The Burmese ruby is accompanied by Gübelin Gem Lab report no. 0706535, dated 29 June 2007, stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; together with a gemmological report.
Stamped PT900 and 750 for platinum and 18 karat yellow gold respectively. The ruby is described as medium purplish red and strong saturation, with typical inclusions, minor cavities and few nicks as examined under 10x magnification. Diamonds are estimated to weigh approximately 2.00-2.50 carats in total, on average F-G colour, mostly VS clarity as gauged and graded in the mount.
Sapphire and diamond pendant/brooch, ‘The Maharaja Blue’
Estimate: 260,000 – 480,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 495,300 CHF
This lot features a large cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 64.32 carats, within a pear-shaped diamond border, signed Asprey, maker’s mark, with a retractable bail.
The sapphire is accompanied by a Gübelin Gem Lab report no. 24071116, dated 18 September 2024, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin [Sri Lankan], with no indications of heating together with a gemmological profile and a gemstone rating awarding the sapphire an outstanding score; further accompanied by fifteen gemmological reports for each of the diamonds.
“On 16th July 2024, the Gübelin Gem Lab in Hong Kong had been entrusted with testing the 64.32 ct gemstone presented here. Because of this gem’s large size and regal appearance, it has been given the name The Maharaja Blue Sapphire. With a final weight, after polishing, of 64.32 ct, The Maharaja Blue Sapphire is an extremely large specimen. While sapphire crystals occasionally do grow in large sizes, most sapphires expose significant zoning or other inhomogenities of the colour, affecting their visual appearance. Large, unheated specimens of sapphire such as this 64.32 ct sapphire, are considered rare.”
Graff
Colorless fine diamonds and fancy pink color diamond pendant
Estimate: 220,000 – 300,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 304,800 CHF
Here we have a tiered surround of floral design set with brilliant-cut, oval, marquise- and pear-shaped diamonds of pink tint, accented by brilliant-cut diamonds, centring a pear-shaped diamond pendant weighing 6.37 carats, embellished with pear-shaped diamonds weighing 2.97, 0.79 and 0.72 carats respectively, and a brilliant-cut diamond weighing 1.25 carats, signed Graff, maker’s marks for Kevess and Chanson & Cie.
Fancy Vivid Purplish-Pink and Fancy Deep Purplish Pink
The pendant is accompanied by several GIA reports. The first, report no. 1488533676, dated 19 February 2024, stating that the diamond weighing 6.37 carats is D Colour, VS2 Clarity; together with GIA reports no. 2235199216, no. 7235199209 and no. 2235199213, dated 29 February 2024, stating that the diamonds weighing 0.30, 0.23 and 0.19 carat respectively, are Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink to Fancy Deep Purplish Pink, Natural Colour, I1 to I3 Clarity; further accompanied by five gemmological reports; further accompanied by GGTL coloured diamond short report no. 25-D-39882, dated 8 May 2025, stating that the eight tested diamonds with a total weight of 1.33 carats, are of natural colour origin.
Signed Graff. Maker’s marks for Kevess and Chanson & Cie, 8 rue de Hanovre, 75002 Paris. Stamped PT950 for platinum. Diamonds of pink tint estimated to weigh a total of approximately 17.00- 20.00 carats, on average I, some SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Remaining diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 2.00 – 2.20 carats, on average E-F colour, VVS-VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Very minute minute scratches to the metal. In good condition. Measuring approximately 70 x 45mm. Gross weight approximately 45 grams.
As is common with Graff, the remaining diamonds of pink hue have not been tested for natural colour origin.
Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Ring — a Real Stunner!
Estimate: 190,000 – 300,000 CHF
But did not sell …
Seen here is a yellow gold & diamond ring set with a cushion modified-brilliant-cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond weighing 8.21 carats.
Accompanied by GIA report, no. 2231352671, dated 26 July 2024, stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Colour, VS2 Clarity. The saturation of color seen here is outstanding! But that does not guarantee a sale.
Fancy Deep Grayish Yellowish Green Diamond Ring
Estimate: 190,000 – 260,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 406,400 CHF
This ring features a cushion modified brilliant-cut Fancy Deep Grayish Yellowish green diamond weighing 16.41 carats, flanked by a pair of cushion-shaped colorless diamonds weighing 0.80 carat each.
The fancy color diamond is accompanied by a GIA diamond grading report, no. 2235370488, dated 23 September 2024, stating that the diamond weighing 16.41 carats is Fancy Deep Grayish Yellowish Green, Natural Colour, SI2 Clarity; together with GIA report no. 6375882445, dated 27 March 2021, and no. 1378917866, dated 30 March 2021, stating the diamonds weighing 0.80 carat, are F Colour, VS2 Clarity, respectively.
GemNote: When presented with a diamond grading report that reads “Fancy Deep Grayish Yellowish Green,” one might be tempted to ignore such a color grade. But as you can see here, this is a beauty, and to the buyer, worth at least $500,000 (that’s roughly $30,000/ct.)!
Mauboussin
A unique gem set and diamond necklace/brooch combination, circa 1935
Estimate: 170,000 – 250,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 177,800 CHF
This didn’t set any records, but it such a fascinating and unique design, that we felt it was note worthy.
As per the Sotheby’s catalogue, the beautiful necklace has been “designed as an articulated spray of carved emeralds and rubies, with ribbons of calibré-cut rubies and sapphires, accented by brilliant-cut diamonds and cabochon rubies, the clasp featuring a detachable brooch centring a cabochon sapphire, within undulating borders of carved emeralds, rubies and baguette diamonds, to a six strand sapphire bead torsade with diamond and ruby set cusps, inner circumference approximately 320mm, signed Mauboussin Paris, French assay marks for platinum and gold, with a jewel case stamped Mauboussin.
The blue sapphires are considered to be “of light to medium light saturation, fairly included with natural inclusions, such as colour zoning and silk, minor surface wear such as nicks and abrasions.
The largest sapphire measures approximately 20.4 x 17.7 mm.
The emeralds of bluish-green colour of medium saturation, are moderately included with natural inclusions, surface wear such as nicks and abrasions.
The rubies of slightly pinkish red to red colour of medium to strong saturation, are moderately included with natural inclusions such as internal fissures.
We have an estimated total diamond weight of approximately 14.00 – 15.00 carats.
Quick honorable mentions before we get to the remaining 11 pieces we want to highlight for you …
Lot 597. Magnificent pair of unmounted diamonds, 23.88 & 23.76 carats Estimate: 3,100,000 – 4,000,000 CHF Lot Sold: 3,222,000 CHF
Lot 573. Attractive Fancy Blue diamond pendent necklace, 4.05 carats Estimate: 850,000 – 1,300,000 CHF Lot Sold: 952,500 CHF
Lot 596. Attractive Fancy Light Blue diamond ring, 5.83 carats Estimate: 750,000 – 1,000,000 CHF Lot Sold: 1,206,500 CHF
Lot 589. Boodles – An Orange Diamond!! A 3.03-carat Very Fine and Rare Fancy Vivid Yellowish Orange diamond, rock crystal and enamel ring, ‘Havana’, Boodles | ‘Havana’ 3.03
Estimate: 400,000 – 600,000 CHF Lot Sold: 508,000 CHF
Lot 567. Michele della Valle – A Pair of sapphire, tsavorite garnet and diamond ear clips
Estimate: 15,000-20,000 CHF Lot Sold: 38,100 CHF
Lot 511. Spinel ring, 6.24 carats Estimate: 16,000 – 22,000 CHF Lot Sold: 48,260 CHF
Lot 544. Cartier – A pair of diamond brooches, circa 1930s Estimate: 15,000 – 26,000 CHF Lot Sold: 40,640 CHF
Pair of emerald and diamond ear clips
Estimate: 110,000 – 150,000 CHF
But did not sell!
Each cabochon emerald, weighing 12.71 and 11.41 carats respectively, are set within a tiered half-cluster of marquise-, pear-shape and brilliant-cut diamonds.
Accompanied by an AGL report no. 1138446 A and B, dated 22 March 2024, stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures.
Stamped PT950 for platinum and OR for gold. Emeralds very slightly bluish green of medium saturation, slightly included, some surface reaching inclusions with minor resulting cavities, dark crystals to one example, one example with chips on the girdle, one emerald slightly loose in the mount. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 7.00 – 8.00 carats, the brilliant-cut diamonds on average F-G colour, the pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds on average I-J colour, VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Minute scratches to the metal. The hinged back fittings display somewhat weak tension. In good condition. Measuring approximately 30 x 23mm. Total gross weight approximately 26 grams.
Natural pearl, ruby and diamond devant-de-corsage, circa 1860 and later
Estimate: 100,000 – 150,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 406,400 CHF
Designed as coiling serpents holding a button-shaped pearl, suspending three detachable slightly baroque drop-shaped natural pearl pendants measuring approximately (width / depth / length) 12.55 – 14.25 x 26.20 mm, 14.55 – 15.70 x 22.50 mm and 12.60 – 14.10 x 25.90 mm respectively, each suspended from a button-shaped pearl, set with old cushion-shaped, oval and rose-cut diamonds, the serpents’ eyes are made of small cabochon rubies.
The pearl brooch is accompanied by an SSEF report no. 145833, dated 11 April 2025, stating that the seven slightly baroque drop-shaped and button-shaped pearls were found to be natural, saltwater pearls; together with an appendix letter.
the Pearls
Pearls of cream bodycolour, with green and rosé overtones, internal fractures, wrinkled skins, with typical blemishes to the nacre, noodling to the reverse of the button-shaped pearl mounted among the serpents, some areas lacking in orient, remnants of glue visible near the drill holes, with satin-like lustre.
the Possible Replacement
The slightly baroque drop-shaped pearl on the central pendant likely a later replacement, of white bodycolour, with green and rosé overtones, wrinkled skins and typical blemishes to the nacre, with good lustre.
Rubies are described as purplish-red of medium saturation, slightly included.
Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 8.00 – 9.00 carats, on average J-K, some L-M colour, I clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.
Much appreciated natural pearl and diamond necklace, circa 1950s
Estimate: 100,000 – 150,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 508,000 CHF
An important natural pearl and diamond necklace, of foliate design suspending a fringe of slightly baroque oval and drop-shaped natural pearls measuring from approximately 13.45 – 14.80 x 19.90 mm to approximately 10.90 – 13.10 x 14.20 mm, embellished with marquise-shaped, brilliant-cut, tapered baguette and baguette diamonds, set in platinum.
The necklace is accompanied by an SSEF report, no. 145403, dated 17 March 2025, stating that the pearls were found to be natural, saltwater; together with an appendix letter.
The natural pearls are described as white to slightly cream bodycolour, with green and rosé overtones, minor wrinkled skins, light pitting and typical blemishes to the nacre on some examples, with good lustre.
The central pearl is fully drilled and the drill hole has been plugged.
Diamonds are estimated to weigh a total of approximately 30.00 – 32.00 carats, on average G-H colour, VVS-VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.
Pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings
Estimate: 100,000 – 150,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 495,300 CHF
Here’s a pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings, each set with a drop-shaped natural pearl measuring approximately 12.55 – 13.30 x 18.50 mm and 12.80 – 12.90 x 17.50 mm respectively, to a surmount decorated with brilliant-cut and marquise-shaped diamonds.
The earrings are accompanied by a Gübelin Gem Lab report no. 25050001, dated 5 May 2025, stating that the pearls were found to be natural, saltwater; together with a gemmological report.
GemNote: A half million dollars for a pair of natural pearl drop earrings – now THAT is impressive! No, wait – the Pearls are Impressive!
Regal sapphire and diamond necklace, circa 1900
Estimate: 90,000 – 130,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 444,500 CHF
Designed as a fringe, this sapphire and diamond necklace is set with cushion-shaped and oval sapphires, framed by circular-cut diamonds.
The necklace is accompanied by an SSEF report no. 145897, dated 23 April 2025, stating that the sapphires are of Burmese and Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating.
The sapphires are estimated to weigh a total of approximately 140.00 – 150.00 carats, are slightly violetish blue of medium to medium strong saturation, well-matched for colour, moderately included, showing colour zoning, with some surface reaching inclusions, and reflective inclusions, and fingerprints, with feathers, nicks and abrasions to the facet junctions.
Diamonds are estimated to weigh a total of approximately 40.00 – 42.00 carats, on average I-J colour, SI clarity, with some VS and I examples.
200+ carats of sapphire and diamonds – now THAT is a necklace!
Prominent gem set and diamond necklace
Estimate: 80,000 – 120,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 82,550 CHF
Set with various cabochon, oval, step- and circular-cut gemstones including emeralds, sapphires, yellow and colourless sapphires, tanzanites, peridots, aquamarines and tourmalines, alternating with circular-cut diamonds.
Suzanne Belperron – emerald and sapphire bracelet, circa 1948
Estimate: 20,000 – 30,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 82,550 CHF
The front set with a line of cabochon emeralds framed by cushion-shaped sapphires and step-cut emeralds and sapphires, on a sprung gold mesh bracelet, inner circumference approximately 140mm, expandable, unsigned.
Accompanied by Olivier Baroin certificate of authenticity no. 2500405b, dated 5 April 2025, stating that the jewel was created by Suzanne Belperron in June 1948.
from the Sotheby’s catalogue…
‘My style is my signature’
With these immortal words, the trailblazing female designer Suzanne Belperron perfectly summarized her unparalleled oeuvre. Her distinct flair, artistic sensibilities and original vocabulary of motifs, immediately render her works recognizeable to the discerning eye. Throughout her almost fifty year-long career, Suzanne Belperron created some of the most stylish and innovative jewels of the 20th century. Belperron’s work is characterized by a well-balanced use of volume, sleek lines and unusual colour combinations.
Very fine spinel ring, 10.91 carats
Estimate: 70,000 – 110,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 381,000 CHF
Yellow gold ring set with a 10.91 carats cushion-shaped red spinel. The ring is accompanied by a Gübelin Gem Lab report no. 21050123, dated 8 June 2021, stating that the spinel is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.
This 10-carat Spinel is a vibrant red of strong saturation, highly crystalline, very slightly included to mostly eye-clean, with a minute chip on the pavilion, and a minute nick on the culet.
Fancy Deep Orange-Brown diamond ring
Estimate: 45,000 – 60,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 127,000 CHF
Centring a brilliant-cut fancy deep orange-brown diamond, weighing 9.46 carats, the fancy color diamond is flanked by tapered baguette diamonds.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 2221981616, dated 31 January 31 2025, the diamond has been quality graded as a Fancy Deep Orange-Brown, Natural Colour, Internally Flawless, with Excellent Polish and Symmetry.
GemNote: Orange-Brown is hyphenated such as to say that the diamond’s color is half (approximately 50%) brown and half orange. This is an estimate using color comparisons.
Bvlgari
Gem set and diamond demi-parure, ‘Celtaura’
Estimate: 30,000 – 50,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 120,650 CHF
This beautiful necklace is designed as a series of bombé links pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, alternating with various polished gemstones including citrines, amethysts, tourmalines and blue topazes; and a pair of ear clips of similar design included; each signed Bvlgari, Italian maker’s and assay marks for gold, along with a jewelry pouch stamped Bvlgari.
Conch pearl and diamond tiara, early 20th-century
Estimate: 38,000 – 55,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 82,550 CHF
Of foliate design, this conch pearl tiara is set with rose, circular- and single-cut diamonds, supporting a graduated series of slightly baroque drop-shaped conch pearls, measuring approximately 10.0 to 15.5 mm, capped by rose diamonds.
The conch pearls are all of baroque drop-shape, light pink to pink colour, with typical flame structure. There are some minor areas of discolouration and minor pitting.
The estimated total diamond weight is approximately 18.00 – 22.00 carats, on average I-M colour, SI, some I clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount, missing one small diamond.
