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TEFAF New York: Where Art and Jewels Collide

July 11, 2024

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TEFAF New York: Where Art and Jewels Collide

Gary Roskin –
Roskin Gem News Report –

This year marked the ninth edition of TEFAF New York at the Park Avenue Armory, May 10-14, 2024. The Roskin Gem News Report covered the show, visiting with a number of fine jewelry exhibitors: Ariadne, FD Gallery, Boghossian, Otto Jakob, and Hemmerle.

TEFAF, the European Fine Art Foundation, is apparently one of the world’s preeminent organizations for fine art, antiques, and design. TEFAF produces two fairs internationally – TEFAF Maastricht, in the Netherlands, and TEFAF New York. New York City is considered by many to have a prestigious and vibrant art market, thus providing the ideal setting for a TEFAF fair outside of Maastricht.

Ariadne

Ariadne, founded in 1972, is an international dealer in ancient art, presenting Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Eurasian, and Byzantine works. According to their promotional materials, Ariadne’s pieces can be found in museums (such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Harvard University Art Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, and the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford) and with private international collectors.

We found it fascinating to find amongst ancient pottery and sculpture, rings and pendants with gem materials, carved cameos and intaglios.

Above Left: Openwork Brooch with Cameo
Severan Period, an Ancient Roman imperial dynasty that ruled the Roman Empire between 193 and 235 AD,
Gold Banded Agate, 3.5 cm tall

Right and Bottom Center : Depicted on this rich carnelian stone (circa first century AD)
is the moment the wine-god Bacchus rescues the distraught Ariadne,
abandoned on the island of Naxos by her lover Theseus,
and carries her to Olympus to be his wife, promising her eternal immortality.

Both are depicted nude save for some diaphanous drapery.

Bacchus faces forwards, holding a beribboned thyrsus in his right hand,
whilst his consort Ariadne gazes at him adoringly, one hand raised to her hair.
The ancient Roman precious stone was mounted in a nineteenth century gold ring.
1.9 cm tall

Images by Gary Roskin and Ariadne Gallery

Aphrodite and Adonis Intaglio Necklace (right)
Roman, late first century BC to early first century AD
Sardonyx and gold, 3 cm x 3.5 cm

Amphoriskos: a miniature version of the two-handled vessels that contained oil or wine (left)
Roman, first century AD (or later)
Rock Crystal, 6 cm tall

Images by Gary Roskin

FD Gallery

This was an unexpected treasure corner, filled with wonderful period works from the major jewelry houses. Here is what they say in their promotional materials for the TEFAF NY show, as well as a few images of pieces we thought would be fun for you to see.

“Modern luxury is about something special, one-of-a-kind, rare, coveted. Ours is a collection of exceptional 20th century jewels, comprised of pieces from the most prestigious houses. With a central case dedicated entirely to Cartier of all periods, icons such as the Tutti Frutti, the Panther and a Mystery Clock are represented. Another case is devoted to Van Cleef & Arpels from the Art Deco, Retro and 1970s eras, while a third case houses an exclusive collection from contemporary designers Hemmerle from Munich and Viren Bhagat of Mumbai. Mixed throughout are modern creations by Taffin, JAR and Wallace Chan; rarities by Bulgari, Boivin, Suzanne Belperron, Flato, Tiffany, Verdura and Boucheron; as well as unsigned parures set with fine Colombian emeralds, gem Burmese rubies and rare natural pearls. Complimenting these great jewels is an array of vintage Chanel and Hermes accessories, photographs by Avedon, Lindbergh and Man Ray, prints ranging from Audubon to Keith Haring, furniture by Claude Lalanne, sculptures by Taubert, stacks of first edition books and a multitude of unusual object d’art rich with provenance and history, all carefully collected, curated and displayed in our gallery on 80th street off of Madison Avenue in New York City.”

CARTIER: Art Deco Platinum, Lapis Lazuli, Turquoise And Diamond Bracelet
Lapis Lazuli: 41 round beads, **Turquoise:** 21 pieces, **Diamonds:** Total diamond weight of approximately 5 carats

Image by Gary Roskin

Designed as a double strand of lapis beads accented with round lapis and diamond accents, terminating in padlock shaped diamond and turquoise set plaques, completed with a diamond and turquoise set closure, mounted in platinum, circa 1935

**JAR: A Pair of Orange Garnet, Rubellite and Diamond Ear Clips**
A Pair of Orange Garnet, Rubellite and Diamond Ear Clips, each clip centers on an oval shaped gem – a rubellite (18.00 carats) or a garnet (25.00 carats) within a surround of round garnets or tourmalines, further accented by a single cut diamond frame of 2.20 carats, mounted in silver and gold, signed JAR Paris, circa 2000

Image by Gary Roskin

**BHAGAT: Diamond and Burmese Ruby Wide Bracelet**
A Diamond and Burmese Ruby Wide Bracelet, designed as line of alternating triangular cut rubies of 43.88 carats, and trapezoid cut diamonds of 85.70 carats, suspending a repetitive organic motif of ruby beads and pear shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum, signed BHAGAT, circa 2010

Images by Gary Roskin

**BHAGAT: A Natural Pearl and Diamond Ring**
A Natural Pearl and Diamond Ring, Centering on a pear shaped rose cut diamond of 4.63 carats, wrapped in a row of round diamonds of an additional 0.27 carats, and graduating natural pearl buttons, mounted in platinum, signed BHAGAT

Images by Gary Roskin

**CARTIER: A Carved Coral and Diamond Ring**
A Carved Coral and Diamond Ring, of bombé design set with carved coral sections enhanced with rows of circular-cut diamond accents totaling approximately 2.75 carats, to the carved coral hoop, mounted in platinum and gold, signed Cartier Inc, Paris, circa 1950
Image by Gary Roskin

**HEMMERLE: Two Pair of Gold, Copper, Wood and Moonstone Ear Pendants**
Two Pair of Gold, Copper, Wood and Moonstone Ear Pendants, designed as oval shaped wood tops to the oval shaped copper and moonstone drops, signed HEMMERLE, circa 2015
Hemmerle Gold, Copper, Wood And Moonstone Ear Pendants
*$42,350.00*
Designed as oval shaped wood tops to the oval shaped copper and moonstone drops, circa 2015
(due to the wood) **THIS ITEM CANNOT BE SHIPPED OUTSIDE OF THE USA**
**Size/Dimensions:**
2 1/2 inch drop
**Fittings:**
Clip backs for non-pierced ears
**Moonstone:**
Two oval shapes each measuring 1 3/4 x 1 1/4 inch
**Signed:**
Hemmerle

Images by Gary Roskin (right) and FD Gallery (left)

Boghossian

The Geneva based Boghossian has a history over 150 years of creativity and gemmological expertise, with artistic heritage and innovative Swiss craftsmanship.

The Maison was founded in 1868 at the centre of the Silk Road. Over generations, the family travelled from East to West, handing down an innate eye for exceptional gemstones and flair for craftsmanship.

“The family is known for reimagining ancient and developing new techniques. Revolutionary creations such as the Art of Inlay, the Kissing technique and the patented Merveilles design has made the Boghossian name synonymous with originality of design.”

Part of their “kissing diamonds” collection, this green beryl with kissing diamond baguette, is set in 18 karat yellow gold.

**Kissing Collection – Earth**
The lush oases found on the Silk Road are a celebrated source of hope, vitality and life. The Earth element features precious green gemstones, their verdant hues a symbol of fertility and new beginnings across civilizations.

**Description**
– One baguette-shaped GIA graded diamond, weighing 2.02 carats, D colour, VS1 clarity, 1 GIA certificate
– One emerald-cut green beryl 30.28 carats
– 18 Karat yellow gold

Image by Boghossian

**Kissing Collection – Water**
The Water element celebrates the courage and wisdom of those who successfully traversed bodies of water along the Silk Road’s maritime trading routes. Aquatic blue gems evoke the mystery of the ocean depths.

**Description**
– One oval-shaped paraiba 4.78 carats, 1 GTL certificate
– Two oval-shaped paraibas 2.44 carats
– One white jadeite “Huaigu” 52.45 carats, Type A
– Twelve oval-shaped hauynite 1.49 carats
– Carre[square step]-cut diamonds 5.44 carats
– Small brilliant diamonds 4.34 carats
– Opal doublets 8.25 carats
– Lapis lazuli 109.60 carats
– 18 Karat white gold

Images by Gary Roskin (lft) and Boghossian (rt)

**Description**
One natural saltwater button-shaped pearl 9.93 carats
One natural saltwater button-shaped pearl 3.16 carats
One natural saltwater drop-shaped pearl 2.62 carats
Three pear-shaped paraiba 2.27 carats
Sixteen round-shaped paraiba 2.32 carats
Six carved flower-shaped moonstone 107.73 carats
Nineteen pear-shaped diamonds 5.37 carats
Nine half pearls 0.91 carats
Small brilliant diamonds 15.46 carats
18 Karat white gold

Image by Gary Roskin

Otto Jakob

Otto Jakob is a self taught jeweler. “Inspired by the magic and artistic power of Etruscan, Celtic and Hellenic masterpieces, he learned their complex techniques using treatises by Pliny and Cellini. Between 1977 and 1980 he studied painting with Georg Baselitz,” a German painter, printmaker, and sculptor. “Since 1980, Jakob he has devoted himself exclusively to the creation of jewelry.”

“The earliest collectors of his work were important artists and art dealers. His works are available exclusively at the atelier in Karlsruhe, Germany, at TEFAF Maastricht, and TEFAF New York.”

We saw a Renaissance theme using rough crystals, in traditional motifs, with exceptional metalwork. The combinations of gems, metals work, and design were a real standout at the show.

**Eopsin II**
Ring with a ruby entwined by a yellow gold snake. When exposed to focused illumination,
the ruby reveals both a star and a superimposed web in the center (part of the hexagonal growth pattern).
*Yellow gold, star ruby, and one of a kind.*
[Eopsin I, seen only Jakob’s website is set with a rock crystal cabochon with a rutile star inclusion.]

Images provided by Otto Jakob

**Huon**
Ring with a cornflower blue sapphire set by four strong claws in a quatrefoil of ruby cabochons.
Closed settings protect the yellow and white gold mirrors underneath the stones.
The ornately engraved yellow gold ring hoop abuts the bezel of oxidized white gold.
*Yellow and oxidized white gold, sapphire, rubies*

Image provided by Otto Jakob

**Cgunta XII**
Pendant with a natural (uncut and unpolished) rock crystal from Brazil.
A yellow gold cap with engraved patches made of white gold covers the crystal
and leads to the suspension loop, which is composed of multi-axially interconnected
links of yellow gold with vitreous enamel on their inner surface.
*Yellow and white gold, rock crystal, vitreous enamel – one of a kind.*

Image provided by Otto Jakob

**Greta XI**
Earrings with baroque keshi pearls from Tahiti.
The visible pearl halves are separated by diamond-set white gold frames,
which were inspired by coral reefs overgrowing rock formations.
The diamond-set universal joint connects the pearls to the clasps
in a manner that allows for subtle multi-axial movement.
*White and yellow gold, keshi pearls, diamonds – one of a kind.*

Image provided by Otto Jakob

**Prospera 2/2024**
Cross pendant with arms made of natural (uncut and unpolished) rock crystals,
the front shows a dark green tourmaline, and the reverse an ornament in the form of diagonally crossed
dumbbells set with 4 rose-cut diamonds. The arms of the cross end with engraved caps in blackened white gold.
On top of these sit spherical ornaments modelled from soft beeswax rods and cast in yellow gold.
*Yellow and partially oxidized white gold, rock crystals, tourmaline, diamonds – one of a kind.*

Image provided by Otto Jakob

Hemmerle

“Founded in 1893, Hemmerle is a fourth-generation family-run jeweller known for its one-of-a-kind creations characterised by innovative material combinations and a dedication to craftsmanship and quality. Each jewel is layered with cultural references and is as original as a work of art.”

What we saw at TEFAF NY were cases of beautifully crafted, great use of metals, well-designed jewels, set with fabulous colored gems. We are confident that you will see the same!