Sotheby’s June New York High Jewelry auction presents a standout selection of exceptional gemstones and important pieces from renowned collections.
Highlights include a rare 9.60-carat unheated Burmese ruby from the Collection of Jeptha H. Wade III and Emily Vanderbilt Wade, along with Joie de Vivre: A Journey in Jewels, a single-owner collection “defined by bold color and distinctive design.”
Also featured are masterworks by Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Graff, Tiffany & Co., and Jean Schlumberger—offering collectors the opportunity to acquire jewels of lasting beauty and notable provenance.
Seen above, a Graff 35-carat emerald cut diamond ring, D / VVS2.
Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
The Wade and Vanderbilt Families
No doubt the Wade and Vanderbilt families played prominent roles in shaping American industry, culture, and civic life. Their legacies do however reflect the complexities of their eras—times of extraordinary growth and innovation, but also deep social and economic divides. While their wealth was built in part through systems that often favored expansion over equity, both families became known for using their influence to support public institutions, art, science, and environmental causes that continue to serve society today.
The Wade Family
Jeptha Homer Wade, founder of Western Union, helped knit the country together through the telegraph, but like many industrialists of the 19th century, his success came during a time when worker protections were minimal and labor rights still emerging. In Cleveland, he used some of his wealth to support public life—donating land for what became Wade Park and helping to found institutions like the Cleveland Museum of Art. His descendants, including Jeptha H. Wade II and Ellen Garretson Wade, continued that civic-minded tradition, giving generously to the city’s cultural and charitable causes.
The Vanderbilt Family
The Vanderbilt name is nearly synonymous with the Gilded Age—a time of unprecedented wealth and equally stark inequality. Cornelius “Commodore” Vanderbilt built a vast transportation empire, becoming one of the richest men in American history.
Later Vanderbilt generations transformed that wealth into a different kind of legacy: architectural landmarks, art collections, and philanthropic ventures. Their homes—from New York’s Fifth Avenue to the Biltmore Estate in Asheville—remain lasting symbols of both ambition and excess.
Where the Legacies Came Together
Jeptha H. Wade III and Emily “Paddy” Vanderbilt Wade, who brought these two families together, inherited not just material wealth but also a sense of responsibility to community and environment.
Jeptha supported institutions across Cleveland and worked to protect natural spaces. Paddy—one of just seven women in MIT’s class of 1945—devoted herself to science education and conservation, backing organizations like the Harvard Museum of Comparative Zoology and the New York Botanical Garden.
The jewels they lived with and passed down carry that layered legacy: reflections of privilege, yes—but also of individuals who chose to give back, engage deeply, and support public institutions that endure to this day.
Exceptional Jewelry
Each piece in this exceptional group of jewels, offered from the family of Jeptha Homer Wade III and Emily Vanderbilt Wade, is a masterpiece in its own right, bearing the unmistakable touch of some of the world’s greatest jewelry maisons.
The Cartier Art Deco diamond bracelet is a study in precision and elegance, its meticulously positioned stones and geometric design a quintessential expression of the era’s highly sophisticated aesthetic.
Showcasing a superb ruby of impressive size and clarity, the Marcus & Co. necklace quietly underscores the refined craftsmanship and careful gem selection that defined the house’s celebrated reputation.
Dreamlike Art Nouveau lines characterize the René Lalique pendant, offering a lyrical counterpoint – an intriguing blend of nature and fantasy.
And finally, the sumptuous tassel sautoir, richly adorned with rubies, emeralds, pearls and diamonds, reflects the likely hand of Paulding Farnham and exemplifies the tradition of artistry and excellence for which Tiffany & Co. is renowned.
Together, these jewels present a compelling narrative of design innovation across eras. Their artistic and historical significance offer a rare and evocative window into the world of two families whose influence helped shape American society.
Property from the Collection of Jeptha H. Wade III and Emily Vanderbilt Wade, Boston
Marcus & Co. – Superb 9-carat Burmese Ruby and Diamond Sautoir
Suspending a drop-shaped pendant featuring a cushion-cut ruby, weighing 9.60 carats, within a surround of old European-cut diamonds, framed and topped by calibré-cut rubies, the chain set at intervals with old European-cut diamonds, the openwork clasp set with pear-shaped, old European- and single-cut diamonds, length 28½ inches with a 3-inch pendant, signed Marcus; circa 1915.
Accompanied by an AGL report no. 1142334 dated August 26, 2024 stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.
Estimate: $1,000,000 – 2,000,000 USD
Property from the Collection of Jeptha H. Wade III and Emily Vanderbilt Wade, Boston
Possibly Paulding Farnham for Tiffany & Co. – Gold, Emerald, Ruby, Pearl, Sapphire, Diamond and Enamel Necklace
Of lariat design, combining Renaissance Revival and Mughal elements, this necklace is composed of stylized floral and cruciform motifs set with square-cut emeralds and sapphires and rose- and old European-cut diamonds, interspersed with old European-cut diamond-set gold links, ruby beads and pearls. Suspended is a pair of tassels with caps decorated with purple enamel and old European-cut diamonds, the tassel caps opening to reveal secret compartments, suspending ruby and carved emerald beads, pearls and round diamond-set gold rondelles. The floral element at the back displays centering rose-cut diamonds surrounded by calibré-cut emeralds, length 33¾ inches; circa 1900, with circa 1930 modifications.
The metal is 18 karat yellow gold and platinum.
Estimate: $40,000 – 60,000 USD
Property from the Collection of Jeptha H. Wade III and Emily Vanderbilt Wade, Boston
Cartier – Diamond Bracelet
Of geometric design, composed of articulated panels set with old European- and single-cut diamonds, length 7 inches, signed Cartier, numbered 2419207; circa 1930.
In good condition, with minor wear and abrasions to the mounting. Tests as platinum. The diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 34.00 to 35.00 carats, are approximately G-H color, VS-SI clarity. Gross weight approximately 44 dwts. Closes securely with a foldover clasp. Width approximately 1 inch.
If a condition report is provided to assist you with assessing the condition of the lot, it is for guidance purposes only. Such condition report may not refer to all faults, restoration, alterations, or adaptations because Sotheby’s is not a professional conservator or restorer but rather a condition report is a statement of subjective, qualified opinion genuinely held by Sotheby’s. For these reasons, any such condition report is not an alternative to taking your own professional advice regarding the condition of the lot. Prospective buyers should also refer to the Guide for Buyers at Auction which includes important notices concerning the type of property in this sale.
Estimate: $60,000 – 80,000 USD
Property from the Collection of Jeptha H. Wade III and Emily Vanderbilt Wade, Boston
René Lalique – Gold, Enamel, Emerald and Pearl Pendant
Designed as a double-sided woman’s face with long hair morphing into strands of seaweed, this long and beautiful pendant is decorated with enamel in various shades of green and blue, surmounted by a baroque pearl, signed Lalique; circa 1900.
Estimate: $20,000 – 30,000 USD
Graff – Magnificent Pair of Emerald and Diamond Pendant-Earclips
The emerald ear-clips feature four sugarloaf cabochon emeralds weighing 26.19, 25.92, 15.83 and 15.57 carats, spaced by two square emerald-cut diamonds, weighing 5.07 and 5.02 carats, and further accented by 14 pear-shaped diamonds, weighing a total of 10.50 carats, signed Graff, numbered 5492, with signed box.
The emeralds are accompanied by an AGL report no. 1147289A and B dated April 4, 2025 stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with clarity enhancement noted as minor to moderate, type: modern.
The diamonds are accompanied by two GIA reports: no. 2235592117 dated May 21, 2025 stating that the diamond weighing 5.07 carats is G color, VS1 clarity,
and no. 5232592114 dated May 21, 2025 stating that the diamond weighing 5.02 carats is G color, VS1 clarity.
Estimate: $800,000 – 1,500,000 USD
Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. – Moonstone, Sapphire and Diamond ‘La Meduse’ Clip-Brooch
This stylized jellyfish is decorated with a domed cluster of round cabochon moonstones, interspersed with small round diamonds, above curling arms of textured gold set with baguette sapphires, and articulated tentacles of polished gold, signed Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Std., France, numbered 19251349, with signed box.
The piece is stamped 750 for 18 karat gold and PT950 for platinum.
Estimate: $60,000 – 90,000 USD
Joie de Vivre: A Journey in Jewels
Graff – Highly Important Diamond Ring
This diamond ring features an emerald-cut diamond weighing 35.01 carats, flanked by a pair of triangular cushion brilliant diamonds, size 4¾, expandable, signed Graff.
The central diamond is accompanied by GIA report no. 2235531227 dated March 17, 2025 stating that the diamond is D color, VVS2 clarity. Together with a letter from the GIA stating that the diamond has been found to be type IIa.
The ring also comes with a signed box.
The ring tests as platinum, and has a hinged shank, engraved 35.01 DIF, referring to the weight, color and clarity of the diamond.
Gem Notes on Clarity – A Change due to Wear
The triangular-shaped diamonds, weighing a total of 3.00 carats, are approximately D-E color, VVS clarity.
The central diamond, the emerald cut, is accompanied by TWO GIA reports, one no. 2235531227 dated March 17, 2025 stating that the diamond is VVS2 in clarity, due to three tiny bruises on the table and table edge. The second report, the older of the two, states that the diamond is/was Internally Flawless.
VVS2, Potentially Internally Flawless – again?
Currently, the diamond is VVS2 due to three tiny bruises. These are inclusions that can be removed with minor recutting/repolishing. The questions are: 1. Do we have enough weight to remove the bruises without going below 35 carats? and 2. Do we want to?
Graff Value
A copy of a Graff insurance valuation dated October 28, 2010 stating the center diamond to be D color, Internally Flawless and further stating the weights of the triangle-shaped diamonds and a value of $7,000,000 is available upon request.
Estimate: $2,000,000 – 3,000,000 USD
Rare and Important Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Ring
Featuring a modified rectangular mixed-cut Fancy Vivid Blue diamond weighing 2.02 carats, size 5 ¾, signed Valentin Magro, illustrated unmounted.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 2225830619 dated April 17, 2024 stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Blue, Natural color, VS2 clarity.
The ring is stamped PT950 for platinum. The diamond is accompanied by GIA report no. 2225830619 dated April 17, 2024 stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Blue, Natural color, VS2 clarity.
Estimate: $1,400,000 – 1,800,000 USD
Rare Unmounted Fancy Red Diamond
Here we have an unmounted oval-shaped Fancy Red diamond weighing 0.47 carat – just under half a carat.
It is accompanied by GIA report no. 2155756274 dated March 5, 2024 stating that the diamond is Fancy Red, Natural color, SI2 clarity.
It is estimated to sell for between $500,000 and $700,000 USD!
Group of Seven Unmounted Fancy Red, Purplish Red and Purple-Red Diamonds
Comprising seven variously shaped Fancy Red, Purplish Red and Purple-Red diamonds weighing 0.18, 0.18. 0.17, 0.16, 0.15, 0.14 and 0.14 carat.
This group of diamonds is accompanied by seven GIA reports, dated February 29, 2012 to June 6, 2019, stating that the diamond weighing 0.14 carat is Fancy Red; the diamonds weighing 0.18 to 0.15 carat are Fancy Purplish Red; and the diamond weighing 0.14 carat is Fancy Purple-Red; each with Natural color, SI2 to I1 clarity.
Report no. 2155394833 dated August 26, 2013 – rhomboid modified brilliant-cut, 0.18 carat, Fancy Purplish Red, I1
Report no. 1142609967 dated October 26, 2012 – cut-cornered rectangular mixed-cut, 0.18 carat, Fancy Purplish Red, I1
Report no. 2145969386 dated November 15, 2012 – oval modified brilliant-cut, 0.17 carat, Fancy Purplish Red, I1
Report no. 1152554753 dated June 20, 2014 – cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut, 0.16 carat, Fancy Purplish Red, SI2
Report no. 2145456998 dated March 12, 2012 – cut-cornered square modified brilliant-cut, 0.15 carat, Fancy Purplish Red, I1
Report no. 2205327659 dated June 6, 2019 – cushion modified brilliant-cut, 0.14 carat, Fancy Red. (Color Origin report – no clarity)
Report no. 2145412110 dated February 29, 2012 – round-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut, 0.14 carat, Fancy Purple-Red. (Color Origin report – no clarity)
Estimate: $250,000 – 450,000 USD
For more on Red Diamonds, read out report on the Winston Red, Here!
