Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction – Lack-Luster
Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem news Report
Up this week, Sotheby’s New York auctioned off an assortment of impressive signed jewels, including creations from Cartier, Bulgari, David Webb, along with an amazing number from Van Cleef & Arpels, and more.
According to Sotheby’s, this auction includes “iconic collections such as ‘Panthère’, ‘À Cheval’ and ‘Serpenti’, alongside exceptional designs such as ‘Mystery-Set’ jewels.”
We take a close look at 32 of these pieces!
There are plenty of talking points for us to mention here so you look for them below:
1.) Glass beads in a piece that’s estimated to sell between $60,000 and $80,000 USD
2.) Several Coral pieces – we discuss the issues of coral*
3.) Does it matter if two diamonds are missing in a piece expected to sell between $250,000 and $350,000 USD
4.) Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds without a lab report? Really? Is that a thing?
5.) Only Wood and Gold in a piece estimated to sell between $20,000 and $30,000?*
6.) Untested Turquoise? Do you buy that?
7.) A $2- to $3-million dollar Fancy Vivid necklace! And the diamonds DO HAVE a laboratory report! BUT WAIT – THERE’S MORE! Of the 52 fancy yellow diamonds, 51 are Fancy Vivid, and 1 is graded Fancy Intense. Wait – WHAT?
8.) A million+ dollar diamond bracelet with mix of sapphires from Kashmir, Burma, and Sri Lanka! This tells us something about origin!
9.) A Burmese Ruby bracelet – tested… no heat. Sweet! Estimated at $250,000 to $350,000. Made by Harry Winston!
And 10.) Oscar Heyman in the spotlight with two beautiful pieces!
*A good number of pieces in this auction as we mention above include woods and corals as the featured gem materials. Sotheby’s makes it clear to buyers of these pieces to please note, “this property cannot be shipped internationally due to endangered species materials.”
The Signature include:
Tiffany & Co., JAR, Harry Winston, Bulgari, David Webb, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Expectations Not Met
For many lots, the low estimates were barely met. Some items sold just below the low estimates. And making the auction even less exciting, there were numerous pieces that did not sell – did not make the reserve. Though, for our report, even those are worth a closer examination.
We will include estimates as well as Pass and Sold prices.
This report includes an edited video from Sotheby’s. – gr
Van Cleef & Arpels – Wood and Gold
Wood, as the gem material of choice is relatively common in fashionwear, but not necessarily in jewelry estimated to sell between $20,000 and $30,000 USD. For wood and gold (and a name designer), this is Fantastic!
A Pair of 18 karat yellow Gold and Wood Earclips, France.
Designed as flowerheads, set with carved wood petals. Diameter 1⅜ inches. [No mention as to what the wood is.]
Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, Made in France, with French assay and maker’s marks.
Sold: $21,590 USD
Van Cleef & Arpels – A Coral Owl
There are a number of varieties of precious corals that are sustainably harvested. The challenge however for many wholesalers and retailers these days is that “Coral” is a complicated conversation. The classifications (precious & common) and numbers of varieties and localities/origins of precious corals all need to be discussed and explained. You need to know the species so you can talk about their localities and their resilience to harvesting. You need to understand the different methods of harvesting. And then you need to now what regulations there are for that particular species/variety for the country that oversees the origin. [CIBJO’s Blue Book on Coral – Annex F — Coral sustainability and regulation for harvesting.]
And this is why many have chosen simply not to offer coral jewelry.
Almost three inches tall, made of 18 karat Gold, Coral, Diamond and Emerald. A Clip-Brooch, France, estimated to sell between $15,000 and $20,000 USD
Designed as an owl, set with pear-shaped and navette-shaped coral cabochons, the eyes set with round diamonds and round emerald cabochons.
Height 2⅞ inches
Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered 112719, with French assay and workshop marks.
Sold: $16,510 USD
Cartier – Turquoise, a matching pair
Turquoise is often times stabilized, and yet for this important piece, there is no gemological report stating whether or not the turquoise in this ring has been treated. And still estimated to sell between $30,000 and $50,000 USD.
Turquoise and Diamond Ring, France, Circa 1960s.
Centering two turquoise cabochons, further adorned with round diamonds and turquoise cabochons.
18 karat yellow gold, size 7, Signed Cartier France, with French assay and maker’s marks.
Sold: $57,150
JAR – Multicolor Sapphire Necklace
A yard [36 inches] of sapphires pearls and gold, estimated to sell between $200,000 and $300,000 USD
No number of sapphires listed [we counted – there are 40] nor any measurements or estimated weight. [No individual or total weight provided. – gr].
18 karat yellow Gold, Multicolor Sapphire and Pearl Necklace, Paris
Set with numerous square emerald-cut multi-color sapphires within gold frames, accented and spaced by button-shaped to off-round pearls, dividing into two sections for variety of wear.
Overall length 36½ inches, detachable into 20- and 16½-inch sections
Signed JAR, with a French assay mark
**Total weight of the necklace approximately 171 dwts – approx. 9 ounces (approx. 0.5 pounds)
[Please note the pearls have not been tested for origin.]
Sold: $317,500
More JAR – Sterling and 18 karat Gold, Spinel Earclips
5 carat + each octagonal “slightly orangey-pink” spinels, framed by near colorless round diamonds, surrounded by a dome of “brown” diamonds. Estimated to sell between $250,000 and $350,000 USD
Pair of Spinels (weighing a total of approximately 10.85 carats), Colored Diamond (of various brown hues, tones, and saturations, weighing a total of approximately 15.00 to 17.00 carats) and Diamond Earclips, Paris
Signed JAR Paris, stamped OR750 and with French assay marks for 18 karat gold and 925 sterling silver.
Two small diamonds of brown hue missing from one earclip.
[Is it better to say two diamonds are missing or two diamonds have been replaced? Just curious. – gr]
Pass: [Did not sell]
Van Cleef & Arpels – Mystery Set Rubies
There are several mystery set jewels in this Sotheby’s auction. One stand-out is this flower clip brooch, estimated to sell between $200,000 and $300,000 USD
‘Mystery-Set’ Ruby [watch here] and Diamond Clip-Brooch, France
Designed as a flowerhead, the petals set with calibré-cut rubies, the center with round brilliant cut diamonds.
Dimensions 1⅜ x 1¼
Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered SL2146, with French assay and maker’s marks
18 karat gold
The rubies are medium very slightly purplish red, with strong saturation and well-matched, slightly to moderately included. [No gemological laboratory report stating country of origin or enhancement/treatment is included.]
The diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 1.10 carats, are approximately F-G color, VVS-VS clarity.
Sold: $215,900
More Van Cleef & Arpels – Onyx [dyed black chalcedony], green Chalcedony, Diamonds, and Gold, circa 1977
Would you label chalcedony a “semi-precious” gem material when the sale price of this beautiful necklace is estimated between $130,000 and $180,000 USD?
Gold, Onyx, Chalcedony and Diamond Necklace, composed of carved black onyx links and circular gold links set with round diamonds, spaced by green chalcedony cabochons and round diamonds, suspending a similarly set detachable pendant.
Necklace length 21 inches, pendant length 2¾ inches
Unsigned, however… numbered NY 47436, 18 karat yellow gold, and accompanied by a Van Cleef & Arpels Letter of Authenticity dated October 19, 2020, which dates the piece to 1977
The diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 21.95 carats, are approximately G-H color, VS clarity.
Pass: [Did not sell]
Iconic Bulgari – Ceylon, No Heat, 5.35 carats
This unheated Sri Lankan blue sapphire is quite the stunner, set into an 18 karat gold Bulgari Trombino ring, estimated to sell between $30,000 and $50,000 USD.
Gold, Sapphire and Diamond ‘Trombino’ Ring
It is reported that the Trombino ring first introduced by Bulgari in the 1930s. Trombino is translated to, “little trumpet” and is one of Bulgari’s iconic designs. The Trombino focuses everything on the central gem. The broad shank set with accent stones, continues through a graduated tapering down from the centerpiece.
Featuring an oval-shaped sapphire flanked by tapered baguette diamonds and accented by round diamonds.
The Sapphire weighs in at 5.35 carats
Signed Bulgari, and accompanied by SSEF report no. 112743 stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating
Sold: $35,560
Graff – Fancy Vivid (with no reports?)!
The highest saturation call for a fancy color diamond is Vivid. This 18 karat yellow and white gold Graff brooch features 8 carats of round brilliant cut Fancy Vivid and Fancy Intense yellow diamonds, surrounding [and somehow taking the spotlight away from] a 3 carat I/VS2 round brilliant, estimated to sell between $80,000 – 120,000 USD.
This Fancy Colored Diamond and Diamond Clip-Brooch, is designed as a flower, centering a 3.02 carat round diamond, the petals set with approximately 8.00 carats of Fancy Vivid to Fancy Intense Yellow to Greenish Yellow round brilliant cut diamonds, the stem and leaves set with round and baguette near-colorless diamonds.
Signed Graff, numbered 3629, and accompanied by GIA report no. 13281949 dated May 14, 2021 stating that the center diamond weighing 3.02 carats is I color, VS2 clarity
Please note that the fancy yellow diamonds have NOT been tested for natural origin of color. [Isn’t that important? – gr]
Pass: [Did not sell]
David Webb – the Fighting Tigers
18 karat gold and platinum, enamel, ruby and diamond bracelet, designed as a pair of confronting tigers’ heads biting a round diamond-set ring. The heads and articulated links are applied with black enamel stripes, the eyes set with round cabochon rubies, and the heads and necks decorated with pavé-set round diamonds.
Estimated to sell between $35,000 and 55,000 USD
Internal circumference 6½ inches
Signed Webb, and stamped 18K and PLAT.
Some Wear
“The enamel with a few surface chips, one which slightly exposes the gold ground, not noticeable when worn, otherwise intact.”
Sold: $40,640
Bulgari – Colombian Emerald Ring (minor enhancement)
This 6.01 carat Emerald, Ruby and Diamond, 18 karat yellow gold ring, centers the Colombian cushion-cut emerald, the shoulders decorated with calibré-cut rubies, and round, baguette and trapezoid-shaped diamonds, estimated to sell between $180,000 and $220,000 USD.
Signed Bulgari, with maker’s mark, Italian assay and registry marks, and accompanied by an AGL report no.1138213 dated February 12, 2024 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: minor, type: traditional
Pass: [Did not sell]
Harry Winston – Bracelet with approx. 40 carats of accent diamonds!
Colored Stone and Diamond, platinum and 18 karat gold Bracelet, estimated to sell between $250,000 and $350,000 USD
Set down the middle with alternating cabochon sapphires and marquise-shaped diamonds, bordered by lines of alternating cabochon rubies and emeralds, embellished with scalloped lines of round diamonds.
Length 7½ inches
Signed Winston, numbered 8969, with Jacques Timey workshop mark, stamped 950PT and PT950 for platinum and AU750 for 18 karat gold
With approximately 37.00 to 42.00 carats total weight of diamonds, with cabochon sapphires measuring approximately 9×7 to 8×5 mm, accented by rubies and emeralds measuring approximately 7×5 mm.
Pass: [Did not sell]
Van Cleef & Arpels – Blue Chalcedony Ballerina
We do like to see alternative gem materials alongside the big three being used in beautiful jewels, like this Chalcedony, Sapphire and Diamond, Platinum ‘Ballerina’ Clip-Brooch, estimated to sell between $120,000 and $180,000 USD.
Designed as a ballerina with a rose-cut diamond face, the skirt composed of polished blue chalcedony, accented by round and square-cut sapphires and round diamonds.
Sold: $152,400 [hammer price: 120,000 – watch on video…]
Bulgari – Ruby Cuff
Ruby, Diamond and Emerald, 18 karat gold and platinum Cuff-Bracelet, estimated to sell between $250,000 and $350,000 USD
Set with round and oval-shaped ruby cabochons, the terminals designed as rams’ heads pavé set with round diamonds with emerald cabochon eyes, accented by bands of baguette and round diamonds.
[No measurements or estimated weight on the rubies. Wouldn’t that be nice to know, especially when it is the featured gem?- gr]
Set with approximately 30.00 to 35.00 carats of diamonds. [They give us the diamond weight but not the ruby weight… ]
Sold: $304,800
Van Cleef & Arpels – an Important Emerald Necklace
Emerald and Diamond, 18 karat white gold ‘Bals de Légende’ Necklace, France
Accompanied by a Van Cleef & Arpels Certificate of Authenticity, estimated to sell between $500,000 and $700,000 USD
The Van Cleef & Arpels Bals de Légende collection was inspired by “five great balls from history.”
1. The first was held Palais d’Hiver in St Petersburg on a cold February night in 1903 and the pieces are inspired by Russian imperialism.
2. The second is the Bal du Siècle which was hosted in Venice in 1951 and the jewelry is inspired by baroque glory, masquerades and architecture.
3. The Bal Oriental in Paris in 1956 had an Eastern theme which is reflected in the jewelry with vibrant yellow, blue and pink colors.
4. The Black and White Ball held in New York in November 1966 to celebrate Truman Capote’s successful writing career, the jewelry has black and white Art Deco inspired jewels that pick up on the architecture of Manhattan’s early skyscrapers.
5. Le Bal Proust held at the Château de Ferrières in December 1971 celebrated the centenary of the birth of Proust and each guest came dressed as their favourite Proust character and the collections includes an eclectic range of jewelry.
Many pieces of the collection are one off items whilst the others are part of an extremely limited series which was only available from Van Cleef & Arpels.
Featuring a central dome motif affixed to flexible links forming columnar arches, each suspending an articulated panel set with variously shaped emerald cabochons, set and accented throughout with round, baguette, pear-, marquise-, square- and oval-shaped diamonds.
Length 16 inches
Signed Van Cleef & Arpels and VCA, numbered JH000871, French assay and maker’s marks
The diamonds weigh a total of approximately 40.25 carats. [Again – There is no mention of the number or weights of the featured emeralds. – gr]
Did not sell – Pass $420,000 (highest bid)
Asprey – Fancy Vivid Diamonds, this time, with Reports!
Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond (51 diamonds, 55 carats total weight) and near colorless Diamond, 18 karat white gold Necklace and Pair of Earrings, estimated to sell between $2,000,000 – $3,000,000 USD
The necklace and earrings composed of 50 graduated Fancy Vivid Yellow round diamonds and one Fancy Intense Yellow round diamond, connected by links pavé set with round diamonds.
[Is anyone else thinking what we are thinking… why didn’t they simply replace the one Fancy Intense Yellow diamond with a Fancy Vivid? They were all graded out of the mounting. It would not have been that hard to do, would it? – gr]
Necklace length 15¾ inches, earring length ⅞ inch
Each signed Asprey
Accompanied by 51 GIA reports dated December 1, 2022 to December 14, 2022 stating that the 50 round diamonds weighing 3.40 to 0.25 carats are Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural color, VVS1-SI2 clarity, and one 0.45-carat diamond graded Fancy Intense Yellow, Natural color, VS1 clarity
There are approximately 14.20 carats of accent colorless/near colorless diamonds, F-G color, VVS-VS clarity.
Withdrawn. [Maybe to find another Vivid?]
Harry Winston – Convertible Platinum Diamond Wreath Necklace
Platinum and Diamond Necklace, designed as a line of round diamonds, bordered by alternating pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds, estimated to sell between $800,000 and $1,200,000 USD
Length 15¾ inches, detachable into sections of 6¾, 3½, 3½ and 1¾ inches
Maker’s marks for François Tavernier
Weights – 148 to 163 carats total weight!
The pear-shaped diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 65.00-70.00 carats.
Round diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 45.00-50.00 carats.
Marquise-shaped diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 38.00-43.00 carats.
Detachable to wear as two bracelets (seen above).
Did not sell – Pass $750,000 (highest bid)
David Webb – Rock Crystal and Diamonds
Here we are again, with an alternative gem material – rock crystal quartz – getting the attention as the centerpiece of the jewel! Gold, Rock Crystal, Enamel, Emerald and Diamond Cuff-Bracelet, designed as a dolphin, the body and tail composed of carved rock crystal, the eyes set with emerald cabochons, accented by black enamel and round diamonds, estimated to sell between $35,000 and $55,000 USD.
Signed Webb
18 karat gold and platinum, stamped 18K and PLAT.
Pass: [Did not sell]
Cartier – Spinel Beads with Diamond Briolettes
Spinel and Diamond platinum Necklace, France, composed of three rows of spinel beads, necklace enhanced by boteh-shaped [aka – paisley] ornaments set with round diamonds, suspending three briolette diamonds, estimated to sell between $30,000 and $50,000 USD
Length 16 inches, with a 3¼-inch center drop
Signed Cartier, numbered 41520C, with French assay and workshop marks
Sold: $40,000
Chopard – Pear Shape Drop Ruby Necklace
Gold, Ruby and Diamond 18 karat gold Necklace, of negligée design, the rigid collar pavé set with round rubies and diamonds, suspending eight pear-shaped rubies alternating with round diamond-set accents, estimated to sell between $60,000 and $80,000 USD.
Pear shaped rubies weighing a total of 13.55 carats, round rubies weighing a total of 3.82 carats
Diamonds weighing a total of 13.55 carats
[Hmmm. Isn’t that interesting, that the weight of the diamonds equals the weight of the pear shape rubies – 13.55 cts. Was this planned, or is it a typo? And shouldn’t we be getting a lab report on those rubies – for origin and enhancement? – gr]
Signed Chopard, numbered 81/6265/1 and 3087707, and accompanied by a Chopard certificate of authenticity dated February 16, 2008, including a copy of an invoice dated February 16, 2008, stating a purchase price of CHF 415,000.
[Using an inflation tool, we have calculated that 415,000 CHF in 2008 would be the equivalent of 435,000 CHF today, or roughly $495,000 USD. And the piece is estimated to sell between $60,000 and $80,000. This will be interesting! – gr]
Sold: $55,000
Harry Winston – Unheated Burmese Ruby Bracelet
Ruby and Diamond Platinum Bracelet, of intertwined design, set with round and cushion-cut Burmese rubies, complemented by pear-, marquise-shaped, and round brilliant cut diamonds. Circa 1965. Estimated to sell between $250,000 and $350,000 USD
Length 7 inches
Maker’s mark for François Tavernier, and accompanied by an AGL report no.1131096 dated April 28, 2023 stating that an excess of 50% of the rubies tested at random are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating
The diamonds have an estimated total weight of approximately 22.00-24.00 carats [and again, no estimated ruby weight. Sorry, not our fault. – gr].
Did not sell – Pass: $220,000 (highest bid)
Bulgari – Colombian Emerald and Diamond Bracelet
Emerald and Diamond Bracelet, set with four emerald-cut Colombian emeralds, rare no enhancement, weighing approximately 9.92 carats, accented by square-cut diamonds, spaced by oval-shaped links set with marquise-shaped, single-cut and baguette diamonds. Circa 1930s. Estimated to sell between $200,000 and $300,000 USD
Signed Bulgari, with maker’s mark, and accompanied by an AGL report no.1094396 dated August 1, 2018 stating that the 4 emeralds weighing approx. 9.92 carats, are of Classic Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: none
Did not sell – Pass: $170,000 (highest bid)
David Webb – Lapis, Enamel, and Diamonds
A beautiful piece of Lapis taking center stage in this Lapis Lazuli, Enamel and 18 karat yellow gold Diamond Ring, featuring a carved lapis lazuli cabochon, framed by round diamonds, within a surround of fluted white enamel. Estimated to sell between $15,000 and $20,000 USD
Sold: $11,000
Van Cleef & Arpels – Diamond Necklace, with Ruby and Diamond Pendant
Platinum and Diamond Necklace, with Ruby and Diamond Pendant, suspending a detachable pendant featuring an oval-shaped ruby, framed by round diamonds, the necklace set with round diamonds and a pear-shaped diamond, estimated to sell between $300,000 and $500,000 USD
Burmese unheated Ruby weighs approximately 7.28 carats. The necklace measures 17 inches and is signed VCA, numbered 339H20. The pendant is unsigned. “Please note that only the necklace is signed VCA, and therefore Sotheby’s does not guarantee the unsigned pendant as such.”
Accompanied by an AGL report no.1114452 dated April 21, 2021 stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating
The diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 18.40 carats, are approximately F-G color, VS clarity.
Sold: $355,600
Bulgari – Turquoise and Diamond Necklace and Pair of Pendant-Earrings
The platinum, turquoise and diamond necklace of bib design, featuring round, oval- and pear-shaped turquoise cabochons, embellished with round and baguette diamonds, with a matching pair of earrings, is estimated to sell between $150,000 and $200,000 USD.
Necklace length is just shy of 16 inches at 15⅞ inches, earring length 2⅜ inches
Necklace signed Bulgari, the earrings are unsigned
The turquoises are medium blue to greenish blue, some with minor discoloration, mottling and visible gray matrix, a few with significant matrix to the reverse.
Weight of the necklace is approximately 104 dwts.
Did not sell – Pass: $140,000 (highest bid)
Harry Winston – Ruby, Pink Sapphire and Diamond Platinum Necklace
The Burmese unheated rubies and pink sapphires range in color from medium deep pink (sapphire) to pinkish red (ruby), with strong saturation, and slightly to moderately included, estimated to sell between $400,000 and $600,000 USD
This is interesting, as the necklace is set with a combination of ruby and sapphire – all very close in hue. When there is more pink than red, it is considered a sapphire. When there is more red than pink, it is considered a ruby. – gr
Of swag design, featuring oval-shaped and cushion-cut rubies and pink sapphires and pear-, oval-shaped and round diamonds, suspending a fringe of graduated pear-shaped diamonds.
Estimated total weight on the Rubies and pink Sapphires is 43.88 carats
Signed Harry Winston, with French import marks, and accompanied by a copy of an SSEF report no.123505 dated July 11, 2022 stating that the rubies and pink sapphires are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating
The diamonds are estimated to have a total weight of approximately 56-59 carats.
Did not sell – Pass: $350,000 (highest bid)
Cartier – Fancy Colored Diamond and Diamond Pendant-Necklace
The 18 karat yellow gold necklace is composed of oval-shaped diamonds of brown and yellow hues, suspending a detachable pendant set with an oval-shaped near-colorless diamond and a 9.64 carat pear-shaped Fancy Brown-Orange diamond, estimated to sell between $300,000 and $500,000 USD
Signed Cartier, stamped 18K, and numbered 93232, is accompanied by GIA report no.2195164086 dated March 2, 2018 stating that the 9 carat pear-shaped diamond is Fancy Brown-Orange, Natural color, SI1 clarity. The oval brilliant diamond set above the 9 carat pear, comes accompanied by GIA report no.2195164088 dated March 5, 2018 stating that the oval-shaped diamond weighing 4.10 carats is Fancy Deep Brown-Orange, Natural color, SI1 clarity
The remaining color diamonds (without gemological reports), are estimated to weigh a total of approximately 65-70 carats with colors ranging from approximately Fancy Light to Fancy Intense Yellow and Fancy Light to Fancy Deep Brown to Orangey Brown.
Sold: $260,000
Van Cleef & Arpels – Glass, Sapphire, and Diamond Necklace
18 karat gold, Sapphire, Enamel, Diamond and Glass Necklace, France, composed of fluted and drilled glass beads, with drilled spheres and button-shaped sapphire beads, interspersed with black enamel and round diamond-set rondelles, estimated to sell between $60,000 and $80,000.
Overall length 32½ inches, detachable into two 17½- and 15-inch segments
Signed VCA, numbered CS10712, with French assay and workshop marks
The glass is predominantly eye-clean, with the exception of a few gas bubbles and small chips.
The sapphires are medium light blue and heavily included, several with surface-reaching inclusions and fissures.
The diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 19.50 carats, are approximately F-H color, VVS-VS clarity.
Gross weight approximately 146 dwts.
Did not sell – Pass: $50,000 (highest bid)
Oscar Heyman & Brothers – Amethyst, Peridot, Tsavorite and Diamond Earclips
One of two Oscar Heyman pieces in the auction, a pair of 18 karat yellow gold and platinum Amethyst, Peridot, Tsavorite Garnet and Diamond Earclips, designed as pansy heads set with calibré-cut amethysts and peridots, round tsavorite garnets and diamonds, estimated to sell between $20,000 and $30,000 USD.
Maker’s mark for Oscar Heyman & Brothers, numbered 706491
Did not sell – Pass: $17,000 (highest bid)
David Webb – Impressive Amethyst, Coral, Emerald, Enamel and Diamond Sautoir
This Amethyst, Coral, Emerald, Enamel and Diamond Sautoir is composed of two rows of carved amethyst beads interspersed with fluted amethyst and coral beads, accented by white enamel and round-diamond-set rondelles, suspending a pendant featuring a carved coral Mesoamerican jaguar motif and an emerald bead, further accented by white enamel and round diamonds, completed by a clasp set with an oval-shaped amethyst cabochon, and estimated to sell between $120,000 and $180,000 USD.
Necklace length 26 inches, pendant length 5 inches, and shows some wear.
Signed Webb, 18 karat gold and platinum, stamped 18K and PLAT.
Weight of the necklace is approximately 234 dwts.
Did not sell – Pass: $90,000 (highest bid)
Van Cleef & Arpels – Unheated Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet
Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet, designed as a line of all unheated oval-shaped sapphires of Sri Lanka, Burma, and Kashmir origin, spaced and bordered by baguette and tapered baguette diamonds, the clasp completed with square-cut and round diamonds, estimated to sell between $1,000,000 and $1,500,000 USD
This matching sapphire bracelet demonstrates that even with three different country of origins, colors can match beautifully. This is quite extraordinary, and highlights the jeweler’s expertise in sorting this matching suite.
Sapphires weighing a total of 47.63 carats
Diamonds weighing a total of 27.54 carats
Length 7¼ inches
Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered 48.869, with partial French assay marks, stamped PT950 and with French assay mark for platinum, and accompanied by a Van Cleef & Arpels Certificate of Authenticity dating the piece to 1938. With an applied plaque bearing maker’s mark for Jacques Timey, the Van Cleef & Arpels signature in a font most closely associated with jewels of more recent manufacture and possibly added at the time of certification.
Also accompanied by an AGL report no.1116855 dated October 8, 2021 stating that sapphires 1, 2, 3, 11, 14 and 15 from the clasp are of Kashmir origin, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12 and 13 of Burmese origin and 8 of Ceylon origin, all with no indications of heating
The sapphires are medium to medium deep slightly violetish blue to blue, slightly included, one with moderate and two with minor color zoning noticeable under close inspection.
Pass: [Did not sell]
Oscar Heyman & Brothers – Diamond Necklace
This platinum and Diamond Necklace, suspends eleven graduated pear-shaped diamonds, and is composed of lines of baguette diamonds, accented by round and marquise-shaped diamonds, circa 1960, estimated to sell for between $320,000 and $420,000.
Maker’s mark for Oscar Heyman & Brothers, numbered 503346
Accompanied by three GIA reports: no. 5234192888 dated February 8, 2024 stating that the diamond weighing 3.74 carats is G color, VS2 clarity; no. 2235192896 dated February 7, 2024 stating that the diamond weighing 2.75 carats is G color, VS2 clarity; no. 2239192892 dated February 8, 2024 stating that the diamond weighing 2.57 carats is G color, VS1 clarity
The three largest pear-shaped diamonds with diamond grading reports, have a total weight of 9.06 carats, with the 8 remaining pear-shaped diamonds weighing a total of approximately 9-11 carats.
Baguette diamonds have a total of approximately 17-21 carats.
The round diamonds weigh in at a total of approximately 12-14 carats.
The marquise-shaped diamonds have a total weight of approximately 11-13 carats.
Did Not Sell – Pass $260,000
