Sotheby’s New York: Catching up from the Holidays with a few Can’t Miss Jewels!
Sotheby’s
Gary Rosin –
Roskin Gem News Report –
All images courtesy of Sotheby’s
We don’t often revisit past gem news, but the “Magnificent Jewels” auction of December 11, 2024, showcased exceptional colored diamonds, gemstones, and vintage pieces that deserve your attention. Let’s highlight a few standout jewels from famous names such as Bvlgari, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Salvador Dalí.
After all, this is exactly what you’d expect from a December auction of Magnificent Jewels.
Up first, this amazing fancy purplish-pink diamond, with a 16 x 10 mm face-up spread, with unique fan pattern in the pavilion ends that helps this full yet shallow cut bring out the color.
An Elegant Fancy Intense Purplish Pink Diamond Ring
Featuring an “emerald-cut” Fancy Intense Purplish Pink diamond weighing 7.00 carats, signed Valentin Magro, seen here unmounted.
The diamond came accompanied by GIA report no. 1192073560 dated January 5, 2024 stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Purplish Pink, Natural color, Internally Flawless.
Estimate: 3,250,000 – 4,250,000 USD
Lot Sold: 3,420,000 USD
A Diamond Lesson? What is Going On?
If you look carefully at the GIA report, it states that the Shape and Cutting Style of the diamond is an “emerald cut.”
Going out on a Limb
We’re going out on a limb here, because we are not looking at the actual diamond – just an image. We are trying to determine just how this beauty has been cut. The pavilion end facets do not seem to be typical/traditional horizontal step-cuts. However, upon close examination of the images provided by Sotheby’s, we do see pavilion step cut facets at the ends. So why are we seeing all of those fan-like additional facets? Are they additional facets, or are they reflections?
Math and Mirrors
If we trust the report, that this is simply a traditional emerald cut, then this would suggest that what we are seeing as fan facets in the pavilion are reflections of the crown facets. For these reflections to occur, the pavilion must be unusually shallow.
So let’s do the math…
The report confirms this with a total diamond depth of just 46.4% — extremely shallow (as opposed to a more tradition 60%+ total depth). The table measures at 61% (normal), better than average for a modern emerald cut, and the crown appears well-proportioned with angles that quite possibly could be 34 degrees (again, normal). Quick calculations estimate the crown height at approximately 12%, leaving the pavilion depth at a remarkably shallow 32-34% (43%+/- being the normal).
This unique cutting style likely contributes to the diamond’s fascinating face-up appearance and may have even played a part in enhancing its color, supporting the Fancy Intense grade.
Without a doubt, it’s a beautiful diamond — and a true mathematical anomaly.
[Of course, if this diamond’s cutting style is actually a “modified emerald cut,” then it might easily explain the fan pattern on the pavilion, and the intensity of the color at the ends. – gr]
A Superb Ruby and Diamond Ring
What to Look For
Whenever we see a Burma ruby, especially one as beautiful as this, we ask to see the professional gemological report that states country of origin, and treatment disclosure. Because the report is an opinion, albeit a very highly educated opinion, we want more than one opinion. (… especially if the price tag is going to be in the millions!)
In this case, we have three of the best opinions: AGL, the American Gemological Laboratories, SSEF, The Swiss Gemmological Institute, and GGL, the Gübelin Gem Lab. And all three agree, that the ruby is from Burma, and it has no indications of being treated. And because there are additional papers talking about the ruby’s wonderful color and rarity, this gives even greater confidence to both the buyer and the seller.
Auction Details
Centering a cushion-cut ruby weighing 10.33 carats, flanked by two pear-shaped diamonds weighing 0.71 and 0.70 carat.
Accompanied by AGL report no. 1112162 dated January 18, 2021 stating that the ruby is of Classic Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Together with a letter and folio from the AGL attesting to the ruby’s rarity and importance and stating that rubies of this color and clarity have been described as having a “pigeon blood” hue.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 116206 dated February 10, 2021 stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Together with a letter from SSEF stating that “a natural ruby from Burma of this size and quality can be considered rare and exceptional.”
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 20111359 dated December 7, 2020 stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Together with a letter from Gübelin stating that the ruby “possesses a richly saturated colour and a finely proportioned cut.”
Accompanied by two GIA reports: no. 2366448319 dated September 17, 2021 stating that the diamond weighing 0.71 carat is D color, VS2 clarity. No. 1112938877 dated September 20, 2021 stating that the diamond weighing 0.70 carat is D color, VVS1 clarity.
Estimate: 1,000,000 – 2,000,000 USD
Lot Sold: 5,520,000 USD
A Fine Group of Ten Unmounted Sapphires
A Designer’s Dream!
When do you see ten large Kashmir sapphires in one parcel? “Never” NEVER would be a good answer, but at this auction, there they were! WOW! And accompanied by the reports you want to see …. all agreeing that the gems are Kashmir, with no indications of treatment.
A Very Sweet Suite
In very good condition.
The sapphires are richly saturated medium to medium deep blue, very slightly to slightly included.
The sapphire weighing 1.55 carats (the smallest) contains a reflective discoid fracture to the side.
Most contain very faint fingerprints and color zoning seen under 10x magnification.
They are all well-matched for color and clarity.
Accompanied by ten SSEF reports and ten AGL reports.
Comprising ten emerald-cut and square emerald-cut sapphires, weighing 3.55, 2.67, 2.56, 2.46, 2.42, 1.96, 1.89, 1.86, 1.57 and 1.55 carats.
Accompanied by ten SSEF reports:
No. 142366 dated November 11, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 3.55 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 142367 dated November 11, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 2.67 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 142368 dated November 7, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 2.56 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 142369 dated November 7, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 2.46 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 142370 dated November 7, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 2.42 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 142371 dated November 7, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 1.96 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 142372 dated November 7, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 1.89 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 142373 dated November 7, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 1.86 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 142374 dated November 7, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 1.57 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 142375 dated November 7, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 1.55 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
Accompanied by ten AGL reports:
No. 1142266 dated August 29, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 3.55 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 1142265 dated August 29, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 2.67 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 1142264 dated August 29, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 2.56 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 1142263 dated August 29, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 2.46 carats is of Classic Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. No. 1142262 dated August 29, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 2.42 carats is of Classic Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. No. 1142261 dated August 29, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 1.96 carats is of Classic Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. No. 1142260 dated August 29, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 1.89 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 1142259 dated August 29, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 1.86 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
No. 1142257 dated August 29, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 1.57 carats is of Classic Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. No. 1142258 dated August 29, 2024 stating that the sapphire weighing 1.55 carats is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
Estimate: 600,000 – 800,000 USD
Lot Sold: 912,000 USD
Unmounted Alexandrite
The oval-shaped alexandrite weighing 40.52 carats. Accompanied by AGL report no. 1143904 dated October 28, 2024 stating that the alexandrite is of Classic Ceylon origin, with no indications of treatment, degree of color change: prominent.
The alexandrite is medium deep in tone, medium deep in saturation, with strong color-change from grayish green in daylight to reddish purple under incandescent light, slightly to moderately included with a small crystal under the table, a feather with an accompanying fingerprint extending from one side of the table and under the bezel facets, a section of which reaches the pavilion, a few small scratches and chips to facet junctions.
A Quick Discussion of Color
While it is always understood that an image of a gem in a catalog should never be assumed to be accurate, we would like to compare this Sri Lankan gem with the Brazilian alexandrites that are listed below.
Size here is certainly amazing, and the color change being “prominent” is very important.
The color change of the Sri Lankan alexandrite is noticeably different from the Brazilian gems, mainly due to the tone and saturation of the hues. Comparing the Sri Lankan’s grayish-green to the Brazilian’s medium deep strongly bluish-green, the difference in hue, along with greater saturation, is noticeable. And while both are described as having a reddish-purple change, these too are noticeably different, mainly in saturation, with the Sri Lankan having hints of a brownish component (less in saturation), while the Brazilian displays a medium deep (more saturated) reddish-purple.
Estimate: 150,000 – 350,000 USD
Lot Sold: 216,000 USD
An Exceptional Pair of Alexandrite and Diamond Earrings & An Exceptional Alexandrite and Diamond Ring
Earrings
Suspending oval-shaped alexandrites weighing 7.69 and 7.38 carats, decorated with round and baguette diamonds.
Country of Origin: Color is Key
Because of the importance of such a distinction between Sri Lankan and Brazilian, because of that color difference noted above, two gemological reports are presented.
Accompanied by AGL report no. 1144268 A and B dated November 4, 2024 stating that the alexandrites are of Classic Brazilian origin, with no indications of treatment. Together with a letter from the AGL attesting to the rarity and quality of the alexandrites.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 24102128 dated October 28, 2024 stating that the alexandrites are of Brazilian origin, with no indications of treatment.
The alexandrites of moderate to strong saturation, displaying strong color change, from medium deep strongly bluish green in daylight to medium deep reddish purple in incandescent light, eye-clean. The diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 2.90 carats, are approximately G-H color, VS clarity. The drops hinged for movement when worn.
Estimate: 200,000 – 300,000 USD
Lot Sold; 1,200,000 USD
Ring
Featuring an oval-shaped alexandrite weighing 16.53 carats, embellished with round and baguette diamonds.
Two Reports
Accompanied by AGL report no. 1144269 dated November 4, 2024 stating that the alexandrite is of Classic Brazilian origin, with no indications of treatment. Together with a letter from the AGL attesting to the rarity and quality of the alexandrite.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 24102127 dated October 28, 2024 stating that the alexandrite is of Brazilian origin, with no indications of treatment. Together with an appendix attesting to the high degree of transparency and distinct colour-change effect of the alexandrite.
Estimate: 400,000 – 600,000 USD
Lot Sold: 1,920,000 USD
Pair of Diamond Earclips and ‘Mystery-Set’ Ruby Pendants, the Pendants by Van Cleef & Arpels
Just Because
The surmounts designed as clusters featuring pear-shaped diamonds, accented by marquise-shaped diamonds, suspending detachable drop-shaped pendants set with calibré-cut rubies, topped by round diamonds, unsigned.
With signed box. Fitted with posts.
The pendants accompanied by a copy of a Van Cleef and Arpels insurance valuation dated November 15, 1989.
Estimate: 100,000 – 150,000 USD
Lot Sold: 144,000 USD
Bulgari – Sapphire and Diamond Necklace
Of stylized basketweave design, set with 79 oval-shaped and cushion-cut sapphires weighing a total of 122.88 carats, embellished with round diamonds, length adjustable from 16 to 14½ inches, signed Bulgari.
Accompanied by AGL report no. 1140187 dated April 15, 2024 stating that the sapphires are of Ceylon and Madagascan origin, with no indications of heating.
Estimate: 100,000 – 200,000 USD
Lot Sold: 264,000 USD
Bulgari -An Impressive Multi-Colored Sapphire Necklace and Pair of Earclips
The necklace featuring 24 variously shaped sapphire cabochons in hues of blue, pink, purple and yellow, length 15 inches, the earclips similarly set, each signed Bulgari. Earclips fitted with posts.
Estimate: 250,000 – 350,000 USD
Lot Sold: 264,000 USD
Salvador Dalí – Ruby and Diamond ‘Honeycomb Heart’ Pendant-Brooch
Designed as an asymmetrical heart, the border clustered with round and oval-shaped rubies, the openwork center of gold honeycomb design studded with round diamonds, suspending a gold ‘honey drop’ pendant, signed Dalí, numbered 199; circa 1949. With signed box.
Accompanied by a copy of Joyas de Artista: Del Moderinismo a la Vanguardia, the catalogue for the exhibition at the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya in Barcelona.
Estimate: 80,000 – 120,000 USD
Lot Sold: 90,000 USD
Matching Earrings
Estimate: 60,000 – 80,000 USD
Lot Sold: 84,000 USD
David Morris – Fancy Dark Orangy Brown Diamond and Diamond Ring
Because You Might Not Have Looked If You Just Saw the Description, “Fancy Dark Orangy Brown”!
Featuring a fabulous emerald-cut Fancy Dark Orangy Brown diamond weighing 14.12 carats, accented by round diamonds of yellowish and orangy brown hues, signed David Morris, numbered 326. With signed box.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 16194503 dated June 20, 2007 stating that the center diamond is Fancy Dark Orangy Brown, Natural color, VS2 clarity.
Estimate: 80,000 – 120,000 USD
Lot Sold: 144,000 USD
Tap here to go directly to Sotheby’s Catalog for the December Magnificent Jewels Auction.
