The November Sotheby’s High Jewelry Geneva auction put the spotlight squarely on a 10-carat Fancy Vivid Pink cushion-shape diamond known as the Glowing Rose, mounted in yellow gold and platinum with accent diamonds, but, as it happens, it was pulled from the auction – more info below.
Even without the Glowing Rose, Sotheby’s did have a remarkable lineup color diamonds including a good number of Fancy Vivid color diamonds, including a 4.50-carat Fancy Vivid Blue (a modified elongated oval mixed cut measuring 17.46 × 8.88 mm) and an exceptional pair of matching Fancy Vivid Yellow cushion-shape diamonds, each weighing approximately 38 carats — an extraordinary size for matching vivid yellow earrings.
No-Heat Kashmir Sapphires
Collectors were also treated to an abundance of no-heat Kashmir sapphires — a rarity to see in such numbers at once. Highlights included a 10.43-carat square step-cut, a 7.73-carat square cushion-shape, a 5.98-carat cushion-shape, and a beautifully elongated 7.91-carat cushion-shape sapphire.
Photography – a Personal Note:
We are always told to use caution when commenting on the color of a gemstone based solely on a catalogue photo (or an image here in the magazine). Still, there is one hallmark of a Kashmir sapphire — that coveted silky, velvety cornflower blue — that is notoriously difficult to capture, particularly when it isn’t obvious face-up. In these images, however, I believe we are indeed seeing that elusive velvety cornflower glow in all four stones – and this is quite impressive. – gr
By Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
VC&A / Oscar Heyman
The auction additionally featured several jewels from de Grisogono, along with a 1978 invisible-set ruby and diamond flower brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, signed Van Cleef & Arpels © N.Y. 45379. As noted in our recent feature, “Invisible-Set Genius: Inside the Craft of Oscar Heyman,” this piece was created for VC&A by Oscar Heyman — a wonderful bit of provenance now confirmed.
Fancy Color Diamonds – the Headliner not Headlining
The Glowing Rose, the “Rare and Magnificent” Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond, was pulled prior to the auction after being featured as the highlight of the event. We reached out to Quig Bruning, SVP | Head of Jewels, Americas & EMEA, New York, who tells us that “in conversations with the owner, we mutually decided the best path for the glowing rose was to withdraw it prior to the sale.”
This sort of thing happens, maybe more often than auction houses would like, but everyone appears to take it all in stride. Sometimes there’s a financial reason, maybe a forecast of the current economy, that sways a client, while other times it might be more personal. Rarely do we ever find out exactly why, not that it should make any difference.
Image from the Sotheby’s
The item itself, the Glowing Rose, a cushion modified brilliant-cut Fancy Vivid Pink diamond, weighing 10.08 carats, does have a GIA diamond grading report (no. 6233701969, dated 12 September 2025,) stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Pink, Natural Colour, VVS2 Clarity, with Excellent Polish and Symmetry, together with a Type IIa* classification letter and a Rarity Report, dated 28 October 2025.
* If you recall, a Type IIa diamond is one that lacks measurable nitrogen. Typically, that describes a colorless diamond. Here though, it describes a pink, not only lacking in measurable nitrogen, but one that has undergone natural stress – aka plastic deformation of the crystal lattice. For more on this classification, you can read our report: GIA Examines Motswedi… – gr
The diamond also comes with a GIA working diagram, giving the client notes for possible repolishing with minor weight loss, for a potentially Internally Flawless clarity grade. At 10.08 carats, this also suggests that GIA believes there is enough weight for this repolishing without going below 10 carats – and that is extremely important.
Mining in Angola
What made this stone unique, besides the rarity of its vivid color and its 10-carat size, is that the Glowing Rose was reportedly mined in Angola, from the diamond-rich Lunda Norte region where the Australian Lucapa Company operates the Lulo mine.
The Lulo mine is an alluvial deposit which commenced regular production in 2015. Since then, the mine has yielded a large quantity of type IIa colorless diamonds weighing over 10 carats as well as rare coloured diamonds. Notable rough finds include the Lulo Rose, a 170 carat pink diamond, the ‘4th February Stone’, a reportedly Type IIa colorless diamond weighing 404 carats, and pink diamonds weighing 46 and 38 carats. You can follow the Lucapa Diamond Company through our reports here in the Roskin Gem News.
An alluvial mine is one where the diamonds found have already been removed from their Kimberlite host rock by natural erosion. The mining activity is concentrated on the floodplains along the Cacuilo River. This area is only accessible during the summer months when rainfall does not hinder transportation.
Sold – Adjugé!
He may have missed the Glowing Rose, but Bruning did bring the hammer down on this superb and rare Internally Flawless, Fancy Vivid Blue diamond — an oval mixed-cut weighing 4.50 carats. It sold for a little over $6 million USD, and was the big important sale of the auction.
Estimate: 4,400,000 – 5,800,000 CHF
SOLD: 4,808,000 CHF
Accompanied by GIA report no. 2195917555, dated 26 August 2025, stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Blue, Natural Colour, Internally Flawless, together with a Rarity Report, dated 28 October 2025.
Made by Schreiner
Next up on our Fancy Vivid color diamonds list is this magnificent pair of earrings, featuring matching 38-caraters, cushion modified brilliant-cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds, weighing 38.66 and 38.88 carats respectively, and suspended from rectangular modified brilliant-cut diamonds (princess cuts), weighing 2.00 and 2.03 carats respectively, and accented by brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow tint set around the cushion Vivid Yellows, and colorless similarly shaped diamonds surrounding and above the princess cuts.
Estimate: 2,000,000 – 3,800,000 CHF
SOLD: 2,200,000 CHF ($2.76 million USD)
Accompanied by GIA reports no. 6187856474 and no. 1152748160, dated 29 September 2025, stating that the diamonds weighing 38.66 and 38.88 carats, are Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Colour, VS1 and VVS2 Clarity respectively, each with Excellent Symmetry; together with GIA reports no. 14322007, dated 5 April 2005, and no. 13935028, dated 22 November 2004, stating that the diamonds weighing 2.03 and 2.00 carats are F and G Colour, VS2 Clarity respectively; further accompanied by a Schreiner certificate/warranty and a copy of an original Schreiner invoice, dated 14 August 2019. Further accompanied by two Rarity Reports, dated 28 October 2025.
Please note that the remaining diamonds of yellow tint were not tested for colour origin.
Fancy Vivid Yellow Round Brilliant
Not overly large, but certainly an impressive color. Here we have a Fancy Vivid Yellow, 2.05-carat round brilliant cut diamond, accompanied by GIA reports no. 15230758, dated 30 September 2025, and no.15230758, dated 25 September 2005, each stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Colour, VS1 Clarity, together with a Rarity Report, dated 28 October 2025.
Why two reports?
GIA tells us that if the report is more than 5 years old, then you should get a new report. While grades seldom change, there is a remote possibility that fancy color grading standards have changed or that physical damage has occurred over the years. In this case, as with most, nothing changed.
Estimate: 48,000 – 65,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 63,500 CHF ($80,000 USD)
Also Made by Schreiner
Not Vivid, but still …. Here is an impressive 42.89-carat Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond and Coloured Diamond ‘Rondelle’ Necklace
Estimate: 280,000 – 480,000 CHF
SOLD: 825,500 CHF (Just over $1 million USD)
The adjustable slide set with a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut Fancy Intense Yellow diamond weighing 42.89 carats, to a chain composed of rondelles suspending two ovoid pendants set throughout with brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow and black tint. Length of the necklace is approximately 590mm, and it is adjustable.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 2155261900, dated 29 September 2025, stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Yellow, Natural Colour, VS1 Clarity, Excellent Polish and Symmetry; together with a Schreiner certificate/warranty and a copy of an original Schreiner invoice, dated 30 April 2016. Further accompanied by a Rarity Report, dated 28 October 2025.
Please note that the remaining diamonds of yellow and black tint were not been tested for colour origin.
Kashmir Sapphires
Lot 592 was a superb Van Cleef & Arpels no-heat Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring/Pendant Combination
Here we see a sapphire and diamond ring, set with a no-heat Kashmir cushion-shape sapphire, weighing 7.69 carats, within a border of pear-shape and round brilliant-cut diamonds. The shoulders are accented by round brilliant-cut diamonds. The ring is signed Van Cleef & Arpels N.Y. with pendant detachable (there was a note that the screwdriver was missing – “deficient”); circa 1978.
Estimate: 400,000 – 650,000 CHF
SOLD: 914,400 CHF ($1.148 million USD)
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 145830, dated 11 April 2025, and Gübelin report no. 25040222, dated 23 April 2025, each stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating, each stating ‘Royal Blue’ colour and together with an appendix letter.
The sapphire and diamond cluster can be worn suspended from Lot 591.
Lot 591. – Signed Van Cleef & Arpels and VCA, numbered N.Y. 48575. All stated weights are based on the Van Cleef & Arpels invoices: Sapphires stated to weigh a total of 32.48 carats, slightly violetish-blue of medium strong saturation, slightly to moderately included, needles and reflective inclusions to some examples, etc. Diamonds stated to weigh a total of 39.81 carats, on average G-H colour, VS clarity, as graded in the mounting.
SOLD: 152,400 CHF
Impressive Sapphire and Diamond Demi-Parure
Estimate: 480,000 – 800,000 CHF
SOLD 400,000 CHF ($500,000 USD)
This is a spectacular eye-catching necklace, featuring 21 cushion-shaped and oval no heat “Royal Blue” Burmese sapphires, set within a frame of pear-, marquise-shaped, princess- and brilliant-cut diamonds. The Parure comes with a pair of pendent earrings of similar design with 4 similar no heat “Royal Blue” Burmese sapphires and accent diamonds, fitted with detachable surmounts, and collapsible posts. Don’t want to wear the necklace, or you just need a ring to go with? In addition, there is a semi-mount ring fitting for the central pendant.
26 Gem Lab Reports!! Accompanied by twenty-five Gübelin reports, dated from 2016 to 2017, stating that the sapphires, ranging from 10.08 to 1.96 carats, are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating, stating ‘Royal Blue’ colour for the sapphire weighing 2.38 carats
The Lab Reports are accompanied by a jeweller’s letter, explaining how the demi-parure can be transformed for different wear
Further accompanied by SSEF report no. 87718, dated 20 September 2016, stating that the sapphires originally set on another necklace before the present reconfiguration are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating, together with an appendix letter.
Attractive Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Seen here is a delicious cushion-shape no heat Kashmir sapphire, weighing 5.98 carats. It is set in a yellow gold ring and surrounded by round brilliant cut diamonds.
Personal Note: What we like about this particular sapphire (and the 7.69-carat seen above) is that the image shows that classic Kashmir silky texture. Often times, this Kashmir color phenomenon is difficult to see, and almost impossible to photograph. – gr
Estimate: 280,000 – 440,000 CHF
SOLD: 355,600 CHF ($445,000 USD)
Gem Lab Reports: Accompanied by Gübelin report no 25082027, dated 18 August 2025, stating that the cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 5.98 carats is of Kashmir origin with no indications of heating. Further accompanied by a Gubelin gemstone rating of 90.3 and a Gubelin information sheet stating further information on unheated sapphires.
The sapphire is also accompanied by an AGL report, no 8093202, dated 26 June 2025, stating that the cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 5.98 carats is of Kashmir origin with no indications of heating.
Jewels
de Grisogono… A Pair of Emerald and Diamond Pendent Earrings
The pendant earrings seen here, designed by de Grisogono, feature 5 carat oval diamonds, surrounded by round-cut emerald melee. The articulated palmettes suspended from oval diamonds weighing 5.01 and 5.02 carats respectively, are pavé-set with seemingly random size round diamond melee weighing approximately 45.00 – 48.00 carats, and accented by more round emeralds and diamond melee. Fabulous design and workmanship deserved the winning bid of $285,000 USD.
Estimate: 120,000 – 170,000 CHF
SOLD: 228,600 CHF ($285,000 USD)
Gem Lab Report: Accompanied by GIA reports no. 2231712325 and no. 2235712334, dated 29 September 2025, stating that the diamonds are VS2 Clarity, the diamond weighing 5.02 carats is D Colour, the diamond weighing 5.01 carats is E Colour.
Cartier Sapphire, Emerald, Onyx and Diamond ‘Panthère’ Demi-Parure; Pendant and Earrings
Cartier’s signature panther is pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, with pear-shaped emerald eyes and a polished onyx nose. Its collar is reverse-set with circular-cut sapphires (culets out), suspending an articulated fringe embellished with sapphire beads and briolette diamonds. Signed Cartier.
Estimate: 95,000 – 140,000 CHF
SOLD: 254,000 CHF
The stated weights are based on a Cartier document:
The briolette diamonds on the pendant are stated to weigh a total of 17.97 carats, whereas the briolette diamonds on the earrings are estimated to weigh a total of approximately 2.00 – 2.50 carats.
The pendant measures approximately 150 x 20mm. The earrings each measure approximately 80 x 10mm.
Attractive Paraíba Tourmaline and Diamond Ring
Next we have this fashion forward diamond ring featuring a 7.05 carats, Brazilian, medium-strong, slightly greenish blue Paraíba tourmaline, encircled by pear-shape, rose- and brilliant-cut diamonds. The shoulders are decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds as well. All diamonds have a total carat weight of 3.12 carats
Estimate: 80,000 – 160,000 CHF
SOLD: 342,900 CHF ($428,000 USD)
Gem Lab Report: Accompanied by AGL report no. 8093446, dated 16 September 2025, stating that the tourmaline is of Brazilian origin, with minor clarity enhancement.
Van Cleef & Arpels Ruby and Diamond ‘Mystery-Set’ Brooch
If you’ve been reading the Roskin Gem News Report, you’ll know that we recently ran a feature on New York jeweler Oscar Heyman and their incredible history with invisible-set jewels — in fact, it was the most-read story in our last newsletter. (click here to read the full feature!)
Which is exactly why this next piece caught our attention the moment we saw it in the catalog.
“Of floral design, the petals set en serti mystérieux with calibré-cut rubies, the stamen set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the leaves and stem set with baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Van Cleef & Arpels NY 45379; circa 1978.” And yes — that NY 45379 stamp tells us it’s an Oscar Heyman creation made for VC&A.
And it delivered: the jewel achieved an impressive $175,000 USD at auction.
Estimate: 65,000 – 95,000 CHF
SOLD 139,700 CHF ($175,000 USD)
Attractive Pair of Natural Pearl and Diamond Pendent Earrings
Every once in a while, we see a jewel that may not be one of eth top sellers, but that has a design and quality about it that stands out. Not that $100,000 is inexpensive, but it isn’t the million dollar Kashmir sapphire.
Yet, here we are, looking at this set of earrings, one with a drop-shaped slightly brownish gray natural pearl measuring 12.42 – 12.44 x 15.04mm and the other with a drop-shaped slightly cream natural pearl measuring 12.62 – 12.69 x 15.48mm respectively, capped by millegrain-set rose-cut diamonds, from surmounts collet-set with calves head cut (truncated kite shapes) and old European-cut diamonds.
According to the lab report, the pearl of gray bodycolor exhibits partially lilac and silver overtones, with signs of circular growth, and minor noodling to the nacre, with satin-like lustre. The pearl of white to slightly cream body colour, shows partial rosé overtones, with very minute typical blemishes to the nacre, and good lustre.
Estimate: 40,000 – 65,000 CHF
SOLD: 82,550 CHF
Gem Lab Report: Accompanied by SSEF report no. 149322, dated 2 October 2025, stating that the pearls were found to be natural, saltwater, with no indications of colour modification.
… and finally …
Cartier Rock Crystal, Onyx and Diamond Brooch
We simply love jewels that use inexpensive gem materials, and create jewelry art. Cartier has been one who has gained its reputation on such practice.
Here we have a rock crystal ring, gathered at the sides with arrow motifs, set with Old European- and single-cut diamonds, accented by polished black onyx, signed Cartier; circa 1924.
Estimate: 28,000 – 48,000 CHF
SOLD: 69,850 CHF ($87,000 USD)
Cartier Certificate: Accompanied by Cartier certificate of authenticity no. GE2013-129, dated 27 February 2014, stating that the jewel was created by Cartier Paris in 1924, together with copy of an original Cartier invoice.
Tap here to see all of the pieces brought to the Sotheby’s High Jewelry auction.
