At Doyle’s Fine Jewelry auction in New York last Thursday (August 21), the sale offered an impressive line-up of diamond rings along with a wide mix of important signed and unsigned pieces. Signed pieces included Cartier, Barry Kieselstein-Cord, Ilias Lalaounis, Chanel, Sophia D, Mario Buccellati, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Tiffany & Co.
(Watches were also well represented, too, with examples from Chaumet, Piaget, and Baume & Mercier.)
But of course, what caught our attention were the numerous signed pieces by Seaman Schepps.
Seaman Schepps (1881–1972)
Seaman Schepps was one of the most original American jewelers of the 20th century. After the crash of 1929, he rebuilt his career on Madison Avenue and became known as “America’s Court Jeweler.” His flair with form and the use of unconventional gem materials set him apart from the European jewelry houses that dominated the era.
His Recognizable Style
Seaman Schepps favored bold scale, sculptural shapes, and definitely unexpected combinations, using woods (including ebony), shells (one of his trademarks), amber, turquoise, chalcedony, aventurine quartz, even baroque pearls when they were still considered “mistakes.” His designs often looked more like pieces of modern art than conventional jewelry, with whimsical forms such as shrimp earclips, grape-cluster brooches, and carved stone flowers. All of this made his work instantly recognizable and highly collectible.
His Court of Clients
Seaman Schepps’ avant-garde style attracted a remarkable clientele: Katharine Hepburn, Coco Chanel, the Duchess of Windsor, Andy Warhol, and families like the Rockefellers and Vanderbilts. His jewelry graced magazine covers and fashionable society events, ensuring his reputation as a jeweler to America’s celebrity wealth, society’s most influential names.
Doyle’s August Fine Jewelry Auction
The Doyle sale from the estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley gave us a great snapshot of the Seaman Schepps style, and in a more affordable price range.
Highlights of the auction included those “shrimp” earclips we mentioned above, set with amber in 18-karat yellow gold, and the iconic turbo shell earrings topped with turquoise cabochons (seen here). There was a carved blue topaz floral brooch set with multi-blue color gemstones and cultured pearls, along with a grape-cluster brooch set with aventurine quartz (green grapes – obviously), all nature inspired pieces. From his use of woods, shown in a long (41 inches) 16mm ebony beaded necklace, to earclips featuring swoops of “black onyx” – accented by diamonds – all of these pieces showcase why the jewels of Seaman Schepps continue to excite collectors today.
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Auction Results: Fine Jewelry, Thursday, August 21, 2025
Seaman Schepps Pair of Wood Bead and Gold Necklaces/Long Necklace
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., wood beads ap. 16.0 to 15.8 mm., no. 1.5750 A & B, with maker’s marks, detachable into pair of necklaces. Lengths 41 1/2, 21 1/4 and 19 inches.
Sold for $5,120
Estimated at $800 – $1,200
Seaman Schepps Pair of Gold and Carved Ebony Earclips
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., no. 19278, with maker’s marks, ap. 18.3 dwts. gross.
Sold for $3,520
Estimated at $800 – $1,200
Seaman Schepps Gold, White Agate Bead Necklace and Pair of Earclips
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., 28 white agate beads ap. 14.0 mm., basketweave motif rondels, spherical basketweave clasp, 2 oval white agates ap. 13.6 x 10.0 mm., both with maker’s mark, necklace no. 242618, earclips no. 242624. Length 18 inches.
Sold for $5,760
Estimated at $1,000 – $1,500
Seaman Schepps Pair of Gold, Mabé Pearl and Wood Earclips
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., 2 mabé pearls ap. 14.0 mm., round bombé wood, signed Seaman Schepps, no. 1829, with maker’s mark, ap. 23 dwts. gross.
Sold for $2,304
Estimated at $1,200 – $1,800
Seaman Schepps Pair of Gold and Aventurine Quartz ‘Shrimp’ Earclips
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., signed Seaman Schepps, with maker’s mark, ap. 27 dwts. gross.
Sold for $2,432
Estimated at $1,000 – $1,500
Seaman Schepps Gold, Aventurine Quartz Bead and Wood Grape Bunch Clip-Brooch
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., flexibly-set drop-shaped aventurine quartz, signed Seaman Schepps, no. 4084, with maker’s mark, ap. 38.8 dwts. gross.
Sold for $2,880
Estimated at $2,000 – $3,000
Seaman Schepps Pair of White Gold, South Sea Cultured Pearl, Turquoise Bead and Diamond Earclips
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., 2 pearls ap. 12.2 mm., 2 turquoise beads ap. 12.0 mm., 26 round diamonds ap. 1.85 cts., signed Seaman Schepps, no. 19442, with maker’s marks, ap. 13 dwts. gross.
Sold for $3,520
Estimated at $2,000 – $3,000
Seaman Schepps Pair of White Gold, South Sea and Golden Cultured Pearl and Diamond Earclips
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., 4 white and golden pearls ap. 12.2 to 11.9 mm., 26 round diamonds ap. 1.85 cts., signed Seaman Schepps, no. 8383, with maker’s marks, ap. 14.5 dwts. gross.
Sold for $7,040
Estimated at $2,000 – $3,000
Seaman Schepps Pair of White Gold, Shell and Turquoise ‘Turbo Shell’ Earclips
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., two white shells, 4 oval cabochon turquoise, signed Seaman Schepps, no. 6835, with maker’s marks, ap. 15.7 dwts. gross.
Sold for $4,160
Estimated at $1,200 – $1,800
Seaman Schepps Pair of Two-Color Gold, Coral and Diamond Heart Clip-Brooches
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt. yellow and white gold, 2 coral hearts ap. 38.0 x 38.0 mm., 48 round diamonds ap. 1.45 cts., signed Seaman Schepps, with maker’s mark, ap. 38.3 dwts. gross.
Sold for $4,160
Estimated at $2,500 – $3,500
Seaman Schepps White Gold, Carved and Cabochon Blue Topaz, Sapphire, Mother-of-Pearl, Aquamarine, Cultured Pearl and Diamond Flower Clip-Brooch
Mother-of-Pearl, Aquamarine, Cultured Pearl and Diamond flower clip-brooch.
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., carved blue topaz and mother-of-pearl flowers and calla lilies, carved sapphire leaves, one oval cabochon aquamarine, one oval and one round cabochon sapphire, one oval sapphire ap. 1.00 ct., 3 pearls ap. 5.3 and 3.2 mm., one round diamond, no. 13596, with maker’s mark, ap. 15 dwts. gross.
Sold for $5,440
Estimated at $2,000 – $3,000
Seaman Schepps White Gold, Carved Colored Stone and Baroque Cultured Pearl ‘Baroque’ Necklace/Pair of Bracelets Combination
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., 10 oval and round fluted, polished and faceted aquamarine, green beryl, iolite and sapphire beads, 9 pearls ap. 9.0 to 8.4 mm., with maker’s marks. Lengths 15 1/2, 8 and 7 3/4 inches.
Sold for $6,080
Estimated at $3,000 – $5,000
Seaman Schepps Blue Chalcedony Bead and White Gold Necklace and Pair of Earclips
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., 26 chalcedony beads ap. 18.6 to 14.4 mm., 2 round cabochon chalcedony ap. 20.0 mm., both signed Seaman Schepps, with maker’s marks, necklace number obscured, earclips no. 5877. Length 19 inches.
Sold for $6,400
Estimated at $1,500 – $2,000
Seaman Schepps Long Ebony Wood Bead, White Gold and Diamond Necklace/Pair of Necklaces
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
Ebony beads ap. 16.0 mm., twenty-three diamond-set rondels ap. 2.70 cts., with maker’s marks, nos. 17155 A & B. Lengths 41 1/2, 21 1/4 and 19 1/2 inches.
Sold for $6,080
Estimated at $1,200 – $1,800
Seaman Schepps Pair of White Gold, Black Onyx and Diamond J-Hoop Earclips
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., 60 round diamonds ap. 2.90 cts., with maker’s marks, no. 23H04, ap. 21.4 dwts. gross.
Sold for $5,440
Estimated at $2,000 – $3,000
Seaman Schepps Pair of Long Cultured Pearl, Ebony Wood and Diamond Necklaces and Pair of Pendant-Earclips
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., 157 pearls ap. 10.6 to 9.6 mm., two tumbled wood clasps, 2 round wood buttons ap. 12.6 mm., 2 drop-shaped wood pendants ap. 20.5 x 14.0 mm., 36 round diamonds ap. 1.10 cts., necklaces nos. 14122A and B, with maker’s marks, detachable as two necklaces or combinable as one longer necklace, earclips signed Seaman Schepps, no. 14394, with maker’s marks. Lengths 74, 38 and 36 inches.
Sold for $11,520
Estimated at $2,000 – $3,000
COMING UP…. Fine Jewelry & Luxury Handbags, September 18, 2025
Again, the gem materials chosen by Seaman Schepps are unconventional. Here in the lots coming up in the September Jewelry and Handbags auction we see amber with 18 karat yellow gold twisted wire, unidentified wood, and carnelian in luxury jewels. It’s not necessarily the gem materials, but in how they are fashioned and used. After these chosen pieces, we include two high-tier Jewelry Seaman Schepps jewels.
Seaman Schepps Pair of Gold and Amber ‘Shrimp’ Earclips
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., signed Seaman Schepps, no. 3085, with maker’s mark, ap. 10 dwts. gross.
Estimate: $1,000 – $1,500
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Seaman Schepps Oversized Gold, Carved Wood and Jasper and Colored Stone Flower Clip-Brooch
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., carved wood and jasper petals, one orange citrine, 13 round pink tourmalines and 14 collet-set round yellow sapphires, signed Seaman Schepps, no. 14210, with maker’s mark.
Estimate: $1,500 – $2,000
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Seaman Schepps Pair of Gold and Carnelian ‘Shrimp’ Earclips
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., signed Seaman Schepps, no. 4508, with maker’s marks, ap. 14.3 dwts. gross.
Estimate: $1,000 – $1,500
Seaman Schepps Gold and Carved Carnelian Shell Clip-Brooch
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., signed Seaman Schepps, no. 9801, with maker’s mark, ap. 31.5 dwts. gross.
Estimate: $1,500 – $2,000
Image from Doyle Auctions.
Seaman Schepps Two Pairs of Gold and Wood Earclips
Estate / Collection: From the Estate of Alfred D. and E. Temma Kingsley
18 kt., both signed Seaman Schepps, nos. 10780 and 3534, with maker’s marks, drop-shaped pair reversible.
Estimate: $1,500 – $2,000
Top-Tier Examples from past auctions… using ebony, rock crystal …
The auction lots below underscore the high ceiling for Seaman Schepps jewels when materials, scale, and design converge to create something truly rare. They illustrate how top-tier jewelry—even those blending unconventional gem materials with bold design and exquisite craftsmanship—can command audience attention with luxury prices. (While the ebony bracelet here did not sell, the rock crystal bracelet below did sell, for $144,900!)
1. 18 K White Gold, Diamond & Ebony Bracelet and Ear-Clips Set (Sotheby’s)
This dazzling suite featured alternating curb links of ebony and diamond‑set white gold—approximately 25 carats of diamonds on the bracelet alone, plus about 5 carats on the ear‑clips. It carried a high estimate of $50,000–$75,000 (Did not sell).
2. AN IMPRESSIVE SEAMAN SCHEPPS ART DECO ROCK CRYSTAL, MULTI-GEM AND DIAMOND BRACELET
Estimate: $40,000 and $60,000
Sold: $144,900
Carved rock crystal, square-cut emeralds, pyramidal chrysoprase cabochons, round and single-cut diamonds, platinum, circa 1935, signed Seaman Schepps…
Don’t Say “Semi-Precious” Just Because It’s Rock Crystal!
Estimated to sell for between $40,000 and $60,000, the selling price quickly shot up to $144,900. At almost $150,000, it’s precious!
Dimensions: 17.8 x 3.8 cm (7 x 1 1⁄8 in), just so you can imagine wearing it.
Tap here for more results from the Doyle August Auction!
To visit Seaman Schepps Jewels, Tap Here!
