As you know, when the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) weighs in on a diamond’s quality, the industry pays attention—and rightfully so. GIA isn’t just a gemology school and gemological laboratory—it’s widely regarded as the most trusted and respected authority in the field.
That trust and respect was on full display as usual at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York City a few weeks ago (June 17, 2025), where the star of the show—the Marie-Thérèse Fancy Purple-Pink, set in a JAR (Joel Arthur Rosenthal) fleur-de-lis mount—sold for a JAR-dropping (sorry) $13.98 Million!
Not only did GIA quality grade the 10.38-carat modified kite-shape brilliant, but it quality graded over 30 other diamonds in this sale.
Continue on as we look at several of the important diamonds from Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction, graded by GIA.
Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
Keeping with French inspiration, JAR used the fleur-de-lis, traditionally used to represent French royalty.
A Royal History Imagined
Of course, this wasn’t just any pink diamond. The stone came steeped in royal history—or at least, presented as such. Said to have most likely originated in the famed Golconda region of India, the diamond has been attributed to Queen Marie Antoinette (1755–1793), although no official documentation confirms the connection.
According to family tradition and historical accounts cited by Christie’s, the diamond was reportedly passed down to her only surviving daughter, Duchess Marie-Thérèse of Angoulême (1778–1851), and later to her niece, the Duchess Marie-Thérèse of Chambord (1817–1886).
What we do know is that Queen Marie Theresa of Bavaria (1849–1919) eventually acquired the diamond— uncovered in her will, described as “a pink solitaire diamond from Aunt Chambord.” [That would be Duchess Marie-Thérèse of Chambord.]
Known today as the Marie-Thérèse Pink Diamond, the stone is distinguished not only by its rare and beautiful color, and its 18th century cutting style, but also for its notable—if only partially documented—royal provenance, carefully preserved through generations.
Examination by the GIA
“GIA evaluated the Marie-Thérèse Pink in advance of the auction, providing a detailed gemological assessment that confirms the diamond’s color origin and internal characteristics,” said Tom Moses, GIA’s Executive Vice President and Chief Laboratory and Research Officer. “Through our evaluations, GIA helps record the properties and history of these notable diamonds.”
That assessment gave the bidders the confidence to push the final selling price of the Marie-Thérèse Fancy Purple-Pink far beyond its pre-sale estimate of $3 to $5 million—ultimately establishing a final hammer price at nearly three times the high estimate.
The Importance of a GIA Diamond Grading Report
Look through any major auction catalogue and you’ll find the same pattern: GIA Diamond Grading Reports accompany nearly every important diamond. In today’s market, a GIA report isn’t just a formality—it’s a necessity, a benchmark. (After all, it was GIA that established the 4Cs and set the global grading standard that every other gem lab follows today.)
Yes, grading is still a professional opinion, and disagreements can happen. But when the report comes from GIA, it’s considered the final word. For auction houses, jewelers, and collectors alike, it’s a trusted tool for verifying quality and protecting value.
The Christie’s Catalogue
To underscore the importance of a GIA diamond grading report, GIA evaluated more than 30 additional lots for Christie’s Magnificent Jewels New York sale, including a 66.74-carat unmounted round brilliant cut diamond—graded “Triple Ex” (Excellent in all three – Polish, Symmetry, and Cut)—and a classically elegant diamond pendant necklace, featuring a 25.45-carat pear shape brilliant, D color, Flawless!
But it was the Marie-Thérèse Pink that stole the show, reminding us once again that for fancy color diamonds, intriguing history, rarity, and a GIA report, make for a powerful combination.
The Cost
Out of curiosity, we checked GIA’s website to see what it might cost to quality grade a 10-carat+ fancy color diamond like the Marie-Thérèse. Based on the current fee schedule (above), without any add-on bells and whistles (like a Diamond Type Letter, a Monograph, Portrait, or Notable Letter), the cost to simply quality grade the Marie-Thérèse would be $1,537.
Tap here of you’re interested in GIA Laboratory Fees.
Diamonds
Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels Auction
THE MARIE-THÉRÈSE PINK A HISTORIC JAR COLORED DIAMOND RING
Here is a Fancy Purple-Pink, modified kite brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 10.38 carats, and accented by numerous round diamonds. The diamonds are all set in blackened platinum. The ring is accompanied by a gold and silver hairpin, circa “likely 1868,” along with a fitted purple hairpin case.
COLOR
The color grade of Fancy Purple-Pink describes a hue that shows equal amounts of purple and pink in the diamond. This is a visual opinion using color master tools. It is not a scientific measure.
The diamond ring was estimated to sell for between USD $5,000,000 – USD $7,000,000.
Price realised: USD $13,980,000
Provenance (as listed in the Christie’s Catalogue)
◈ Queen Marie Antoinette of France, Archduchess of Austria (1755-1793), by repute
“By repute” means based on what others say or report, rather than firsthand knowledge or experience. It implies that someone or something is known through reputation or hearsay. It also indicates that the ownership is based on information provided by the consignor or tradition, but has not been independently verified by Christie’s.
◈ Duchess Marie-Thérèse de Angoulême (1778-1851), later Countess de Marnes, her daughter
Yes, the Duchess is the daughter of Queen Marie Antoinette.
◈ Duchess Marie Thérèse de Chambord, Archduchess of Austria (1817-1886), her niece
The niece of Duchess Marie-Thérèse de Angoulême
◈ Queen Maria Theresa of Bavaria, Archduchess of Austria-Este (1849-1919), her niece
Thence by descent
Written in Queen Maria Theresa of Bavaria’s will that the diamond was passed down from Duchess Marie Thérèse de Chambord.
◈ Sotheby’s, Geneva, 20 November 1996, Sale GE0195, Lot 535
Possible History – A Story to be Told
Chritsie’s includes a background of Marie Antoinette, the last queen of France before the French Revolution, and whose jewelry collection, both public and private, was substantial. “These gems were not only adornments, but emblems of her status and aesthetic taste.”
Christie’s tells us that her “love for fashion, design and jewelry was both a reflection of courtly traditions and a personal indulgence. As queen, she had access to the crown jewels of France, but she also commissioned new pieces to suit her own taste, crafted by the best Parisian jewelers.”
And from this, we are to believe that the important Purple Pink kite shaped diamond was hers, then passed down to her daughter, who then passed the jewel down to her niece.
Following the fall of the monarchy and the tragic demise of the royal family, the jewels were entrusted to their sole surviving heir, Duchess Marie-Thérèse de Angoulême. With no heirs of her own, she passed the legacy to her niece, Duchess Marie-Thérèse de Chambord. And then, years later, a note in a will revealed the diamond’s owner: Queen Marie Theresa of Bavaria with the jewel described as “a pink solitaire diamond from Aunt Chambord.”
As Christie’s notes: “this 10.38 carat diamond may have been part of Marie Antoinette’s original inventory before passing through the hands of her direct descendants.”
“Currently mounted in an elegant setting fit for a queen by Parisian jeweler, JAR, the Marie-Thérèse diamond is also accompanied by a velvet case revealing a hairpin mounting bearing a faded Austrian Imperial Warrant, likely commissioned by Duchess Marie-Thérèse de Chambord in 1868. This lot not merely a jewel, but a tangible treasure of royal history.”
GIA results are as follows …
While it is possible to improve the clarity of the pink by reducing the size of the SI1 feather in the table’s edge, there would be insignificant benefits in doing so. Gaining a clarity grade or two, VS2 or even VS1 with minor recutting, there would be no visual evidence of improved beauty. Color and historic provenance far outweigh any marginal improvement in clarity that a recut might achieve.
A MAGNIFICENT UNMOUNTED DIAMOND
Round brilliant-cut diamond of 66.74 carat
Looking for a show stopper? Here’s a 66.74 carat round brilliant-cut diamond, graded by GIA in 2023, report no. 1182650191: 66.74 carats, D color, VVS1 clarity, Triple Excellent (Triple Ex) excellent cut, polish and symmetry, Type IIa
Estimate: USD $3,200,000 – USD $4,200,000
Price realised: USD $3,801,000
They’re not polishing marks for the simple reason that the Polish is graded Excellent. You will never see such obvious polish marks on a diamond graded Excellent.
This is quite extraordinary to see VVS1 graining in a photo such as this. But the diamond is quite large, so maybe this would account for that.
AN EXCEPTIONAL HARRY WINSTON DIAMOND PENDANT NECKLACE
Pear brilliant-cut diamond of 17.50 carats, round brilliant-cut diamond of 5.01 carats, round, pear, emerald and marquise-shaped diamonds, platinum and 18k white gold, signed Winston, maker’s mark (Jacques Timey)
One cannot simply value this necklace based upon just two center diamonds. The total carat weight of the Harry Winston necklace is substantial, and the colors of the suite of diamonds one would assume to be in the colorless grades.
A classic Winston style, with very little metal showing. The use of the marquise and pear shapes to create florets is noteworthy as well.
GIA, 2025, report no. 2235529025: 17.50 carats (pear), D color, VVS1 clarity, potentially Internally Flawless, Type IIa
GIA, 2025, report no. 6233530494: 5.01 carats (round), D color, SI1 clarity
Estimate: USD $1,400,000 – USD $1,800,000
Price realised: USD $2,409,500
A SUPERB DIAMOND PENDANT NECKLACE
Pear brilliant-cut diamond of 25.45 carats, platinum
Nothing subtle here. A 25-carat Flawless pear shape. Flawless is a grade that demonstrates the masterful skills of the cutter, not leaving any polish marks, having the facets shaped and aligned beautifully. It is a rare talent. To actually wear a large D Flawless diamond in a pendant allows everyone to enjoy the beauty. Protecting the diamond when it is not being worn is the responsibility of the wearer. Bumping up against another piece of diamond jewelry can quickly reduce the Flawless grade to Internally Flawless.
GIA, 2025, report no. 5202970330: 25.45 carats, D color, Flawless, excellent polish and symmetry, Type IIa
Estimate: USD $1,500,000 – USD $2,000,000
Price realised: USD $2,349,000
AN ELEGANT HARRY WINSTON DIAMOND RING
Here we have a beautiful emerald-cut diamond, weighing 23.26 carats. It is accented by shield-shaped diamonds, and set in platinum.
Excellent polish and symmetry, GIA does not yet have a Cut grade for fancy shape diamonds.
Graded Internally Flawless with no mention of graining, we can assume that the diamond is potentially Flawless with minor repolishing. GIA offers a service to mark the diamond where finish details need to be removed in order to obtain a Flawless grade.
GIA, 2025, report no. 5171509207: 23.26 carats, D color, Internally Flawless, Type IIa
Estimate: USD $1,200,000 – USD $1,800,000
Price realised: USD $1,804,500
A FINE COLORED DIAMOND RING
Not quite “Fancy” color, but still a very pretty and rare diamond, this pear shape brilliant-cut weighing 17.98 carats, was graded Light Blue, VVS2, and set in platinum.
GIA, 2025, report no. 5232529029: 17.98 carats, Light Blue, natural color, VVS2 clarity, potentially Internally Flawless, Type IIb. You can see in the “Clarity Characteristics” that “feather” is listed. This is a very small fissure that can be easily removed with minor repolishing. GIA has supplied a working diagram to help the cutter in repolishing the diamond for Internally Flawless (or Flawless!)
Estimate: USD $1,000,000 – USD $1,500,000
Price realised: USD $1,502,000
AN IMPORTANT VAN CLEEF & ARPELS DIAMOND RING
One more large emerald-cut diamond, this one weighing 24.99 carats, accented by trapezoid-shaped diamonds (two on each shoulder), set in platinum, and signed Van Cleef & Arpels.
Accompanied by a 2025 GIA report no. 1232576801: 24.99 carats, F color, VVS1 clarity. (This may be academic, but since the weight is now below 25 carats—maybe due to the chip—all of the clarity characteristics appear to be removeable with minor repolishing. It is likely that this diamond is potentially Internally Flawless, and should stay above 24 carats.)
Estimate: USD $800,000 – USD *1,200,000
Price realised: USD $1,071,000
CARTIER DIAMOND RING
Another Emerald Cut? Well, maybe not as the corners are quite large. GIA has called this a “cut-cornered rectangular step-cut,” weighing 12.06 carats, accented by triangular-cut diamonds, platinum, signed Cartier.
Estimate: USD $150,000 – USD $200,000
Price realised: USD $630,000
GIA, 2025, report no. 2235529031: 12.06 carats, D color, VVS1 clarity, potentially Internally Flawless.
Note that the Clarity Characteristics that will need to be removed for Internally Flawless are 1. feather and 2. an indented Natural. The indented Natural is considered as you would a chip, since the indentation goes into the diamond – it doesn’t simply lay on the surface.
TAFFIN MULTI-GEM AND DIAMOND RING
And last but certainly not least, we have a cushion-shaped diamond of approximately 5.18 carats, surrounded by round sapphires, demantoid garnets, rare purple topaz, and citrines, all set in rose gold, signed Taffin.
This is one diamond that was NOT graded by GIA. It is quite intersting!
“The diamond featured in this ring was originally purchased from Christie’s Los Angeles in 2001. At that time, the diamond was accompanied by a Gübelin certificate stating that the stone was D color, Internally Flawless, together with a letter stating Type IIa classification. In order to preserve the current Taffin setting, this diamond has not been unmounted and sent for certification.”
This is what makes it interesting – the mounting. Look at how the diamond is cradled in the setting. No one in their right mind would unmount this diamond simply to confirm a clarity or color grade. Its provenance is good enough to provide substantial information to confirm that this diamond is the one graded by Gübelin. You can find out more about Taffin jewelry in the Christie’s catalogue. Just follow the link below.
Estimate: USD $120,000 – USD $180,000
Price realised: USD $201,600
Tap here to see more diamond jewelry in the June Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction.
