Phillips – The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE

The Phillips THREE Geneva Auction was a relatively small sale, with only 113 Lots. Surprisingly, there were a good number of items that did not sell, including almost half of the “Rocks to Watch.”

Of the lots that did sell, you should pay close attention to the fabulous Burma Ruby that sold for over $5 million – size and quality matter here. And the Red diamond – what some would call “brick red” – which sold for over $1 million. It’s Red. It’s Rare.

Geneva Auction, 11 November 2024 – Some of the Lots we were watching….


Pair of Emerald and Diamond Ear Clips

Each set with a cabochon emerald weighing 19.08 and 18.92 carats respectively, accented with marquise-shaped diamonds, each measuring approximately 40 x 32mm, each signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, case stamped Van Cleef & Arpels.

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 18090108 and no. 18090107, stating that the emerald weighing 19.08 is of Colombian origin with a minor amount of oil in fissures; and that the emerald weighing 18.92 carats is of Colombian origin, with a moderate amount of oil in fissures.

Estimate
CHF340,000 – 500,000 
€364,000-535,000
$400,000-600,000

SOLD: CHF355,600 [$404,000]


Diamond Jabot Pin, Circa 1926

Set with a pear-shaped diamond weighing 4.04 carats, highlighted with single-, circular-cut and baguette diamonds, measuring approximately 69 x 29mm, signed Cartier, and numbered.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 6193570340, stating that the diamond is E Colour, VS2 Clarity.
Also accompanied by a certificate by the International Antique Jewelers Association Expertise (IAJA Expertise).

Provenance: Sotheby’s Parke-Bernet, New York, 13 October 1976, lot 23.

Estimate
CHF75,000 – 100,000 
€80,200-107,000
$90,000-120,000

SOLD: CHF101,600 [$115,000]


Important Emerald Ring

Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 20.49 carats, size 52.

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 140910 and Gübelin report no. 22040098, each stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement; together with an SSEF Appendix Letter and a Gübelin Gemmological Profile.

Estimate
CHF650,000 – 850,000 
€695,000-909,000
$750,000-1,000,000

SOLD: CHF1,330,500 [$1.5 million]


Citrine, turquoise and diamond necklace, circa 1960

The five step-cut citrines suspended from a gold cord, accented with cabochon turquoise and brilliant-cut diamonds, the central citrine within a surround of gold grain de café motifs, length approximately 490mm, signed Monture Cartier, French maker’s mark for Cartier, assay marks for gold and platinum.

Estimate
CHF85,000 – 130,000 
€90,900-139,000
$100,000-150,000

DNS: Did Not Sell

Provenance: Formerly in the collection of French actress, Marie Bell (1900-1985).

Marie Bell: A French Icon
Marie Bell, née Marie-Jeanne Bellon-Downey, was a French actress, an honorary member of the Comédie Française and the director of the Théâtre du Gymnase in Paris. Born in Bordeaux in 1900 to an Irish father, she shared her childhood between France and England.

After completing her studies at the conservatory in Paris, she joined the Comédie Française in 1921 and made her debut in film in 1924. Bell quickly rose to fame and was featured in several movies throughout the 1920s and 1930s.

During the German Occupation of France (1940-1944), Bell partook in the French Resistance and was awarded the Légion d’Honneur by President Charles de Gaulle.

The latter part of her career was largely dedicated to theatre, working as both an actress and a stage director. From 1962 until her death in 1985, she directed the Théâtre du Gymnase, which was renamed after her as a tribute to her inspiring vocation.

Marie Bell was an icon of grace and embodied the archetype of French elegance, which she infused in the many roles she interpreted. Although she was primarily a classical actress, she did not shy away from embracing avant-garde artistic trends, incarnating timeless virtuosity and distinction.


Fine Fancy Intense Pink diamond ring

Set with a pear-shaped fancy intense pink diamond weighing 5.09 carats, size 52.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 5221432498, stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Pink, Natural Colour, SI1 Clarity, Excellent Polish and Symmetry.

Estimate
CHF1,870,000 – 2,970,000 
€2,000,000-3,180,000
$2,200,000-3,500,000

DNS: Did Not Sell


Exceptional Ruby and Diamond Ring

Set with an oval ruby weighing 17.97 carats, between pear-shaped diamonds.

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 97486 and Gübelin report no. 24090030, each stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating; together with appendix letters from both SSEF and Gübelin, and a Gübelin Gemmological Profile.

Estimate
CHF4,100,000 – 4,800,000 
€4,380,000-5,130,000
$4,800,000-5,500,000

SOLD: CHF4,779,000 [$5.42 million!]


‘The Red Miracle,’ Rare Fancy Red Diamond Ring

Set with a cut-cornered rectangular-cut fancy red diamond weighing 1.21 carats, highlighted with heart-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds and circular-cut pink sapphires.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2155674401, stating that the diamond is Fancy Red, Natural Colour, SI2 Clarity; together with a GIA monograph.

Estimate
CHF420,000 – 680,000 
€449,000-727,000
$500,000-800,000

SOLD: CHF977,900 [$1.1 million]


Ruby, emerald, onyx and diamond brooch, 1920s

Depicting two roses, the petals composed of buff-top rubies, the leaves embellished with calibré-cut emeralds, the stems set with polished onyx, within a frame of circular-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 68 x 33mm, French assay marks for platinum.

Estimate
CHF30,000 – 42,000 
€32,100-44,900
$35,000-50,000

DNS: Did Not Sell

Roskin Gem News Report
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