In our last report on Heritage Auctions’ September 29 Fall Fine Jewelry Signature® Sale, we focused on a few beautiful pieces of colored gemstone jewels; four loose gems, including a 3.15-carat Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline with spectacular color that sold for $106,250, a 2.46-carat no-heat Burmese ruby that sold for $62,500, an obvious 2.35-carat Kashmir sapphire that sold for $57,500, and a rare 10.96-carat Zimbabwe (Sandawana) emerald (did not sell).
We also highlighted a 10.13-carat Old Mine (Cushion? “Roval”?) Brilliant cut diamond set in platinum, sold for $120,000. Who knew Taylor Swift would be wearing one very similar (although hers is obviously just a tad bit larger)? Check out that report here!
This auction was over loaded with fine estate jewelry, with natural pearls, multicolor sapphires, Burma rubies, Zambian and Colombian emeralds, wood(!), and more, as well as designer and famous house names such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Fred, Oscar Heyman, Cartier, etc.
We logged on for the afternoon sale and it kept going into the night. After a short break, they came back to finish off with the evening sale! A true auction marathon event!
And now, for several other notable jewels from the sale on Monday, September 29th, from the Heritage Fall Fine Jewelry Signature Auction.
NOTE: Interested in seeing just how the sale of a particular item went, log onto HA.com, pull up the item, and watch the actual sale!
Platinum on Gold, 12mm Natural Button Pearl
All images courtesy of Heritage Auctions
Antique Pendant Brooch, featuring a 12mm Natural Pearl, accented by Old European Cut, Old Mine Cut, and Single Cut diamonds (approximately 5.00 carats total weight).
Metal: Platinum-Topped Gold
Approximately 2-1/4 inches across.
Estimate: $10,000 – $15,000
Sold: $12,500
The natural pearl has been identified by GIA as a button pearl, with depth measurements unobtainable due to mounting.
Iconic Cartier: Panthère Ring
Cartier Multi-Stone, Diamond, White Gold Ring, French
Stones: Full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 4.90 carats; pear-shaped emeralds weighing a total of approximately 0.18 carat; buff top sapphires
Metal: 18k white gold
Marked: Cartier; 674671; French hallmarks
Collection: Panthère de Cartier
Gross Weight: 17.60 grams
Size: 7 (not sizeable)
Estimate: $50,000 – $70,000.
Sold: $87,500
The Head Moves
This Panthère de Cartier ring is crafted in 18k white gold and features the sculpted form of Cartier’s iconic panther motif, with a cleverly engineered head designed on a bearing that allows it to be manually rotated in part. The surface is pavé set with brilliant cut diamonds that follow the contours of the design, while buff top sapphires are seamlessly inlaid to form the panther’s signature spotted pattern.
Big Eyes
The eyes are set with standout emeralds measuring approximately 4.2 x 2.00 mm and 4.3 x 1.8 mm, excitingly large for this model. Their elongated, slightly navette-like shape and strong green saturation give the panther a vivid, expressive gaze. Some adhesive overflow is visible upon very close inspection to the nose area.
The ring bears the French eagle head hallmark, indicating its 18k gold content. A French maker’s mark is also present but indistinct due to wear or a weak impression. The ring is additionally stamped Cartier / 674671 / 54 / 18k and is accompanied by a classic red Cartier ring box with gold trim.
“The Big Olive”
Fancy Dark Brown-Greenish Yellow* Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring
Here we have a cushion-shaped fancy colored diamond, weighing 41.54 carats. The ring does not matter… it’s just a place-holder.
Metal: Platinum and 18k gold
Gross Weight: 17.90 grams
Estimate: $100,000 – $150,000
SOLD: $625,000 (including the buyer’s premium)
A remarkable and historically significant 41.54-carat diamond, graded Fancy Dark Brown-Greenish Yellow by GIA, represents the second-largest recorded example of a hydrogen-rich “whiskey colored” diamond. “Fancy Dark Brown-Greenish Yellow”? – see below…
As Seen In G&G
Noted in the Spring 2010 issue of GIA’s Gems & Gemology (pp. 64–65), this cushion-cut specimen belongs to the rare Type IaAB group, exhibiting high hydrogen and nitrogen concentrations, and a subdued yellow luminescence under long-wave UV.
Selling the Inclusion!
“Its cuboid phantom cloud inclusion, distinctly observable under darkfield illumination, earns it an SI1 clarity grade—a museum-worthy jewel for the connoisseur of natural diamonds and rare phenomena.” Diamond measures 24.43 x 21.40 x 11.95 mm.
*How to read a Fancy Color call on a GIA report
“Fancy Dark Brown-Greenish Yellow“
When looking at the color call on this 41-carat cushion brilliant, we see three different hues: Brown, Green, and Yellow. Using the suffix -ish indicates that this hue is a modifier, and in this case, green is modifying yellow, therefore “greenish yellow.” Back in the early days of the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory, there would be a hyphen between the modifier and the dominant hue – e.g. greenish-yellow. Today’s reports will have the hyphen between two dominant hues, with the first hue listed being called “subdominant.” In this case, we have two hues, Brown, and Greenish Yellow. The hyphen then is placed between those two relatively equally dominant hues, Brown–Greenish Yellow.
Personally speaking, “Olive” might be a nice color term for this particular look. And color science may actually agree. What do you think? – gr
For reference to the Olive color in diamonds, see Collecting and Classifying Fancy Colour Diamonds by Stephen Hofer, pages 374-391.
Has Pink Lost Its Popularity?
This Kunzite and Diamond Gold Ring did not bring enough sparkle to the auction, and so it remains up for sale.
The pear-shape kunzite weighs approximately 20.00 carats
It is accented by marquise and full-cut round brilliant diamonds weighing a total of approximately 2.00 carats
Estimate: $5,000 – $7,000
Sold: $3,375
A well-balanced design currently installed with a horseshoe-shaped sizing aid for a snug fit around the finger. The accent marquise diamond measures 8.00 x 4.00 mm and has good clarity.
The kunzite measures 22.00 x 13.88 x 9.72 mm, with good faceting and well balanced purplish-pink coloration.
On the other hand, Art Deco Did Well
Art Deco Diamond, Enamel, Platinum, Gold Earrings
Here we see Old European-cut diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 12.20 carats, along with single-cut diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 0.30 carat, in Art Deco dangle earrings, with black enamel, all set in platinum with gold accents.
Estimate: $5,000 – $7,000
Sold: $13,125
“The design showcases the geometric sophistication of the period, highlighted by brilliant diamonds and detailed enamel work. … A striking and authentic representation of early 20th-century craftsmanship.”
Look at the Color, and Ignore the Clarity
Ruser Burma Ruby, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring
Well, size may also factor in to this one as well as color…. Here we have an oval-shaped Burma, no heat, ruby weighing 9.87 carats. The ruby is accented by marquises and round brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 5.45 carats.
There is a fairly large series of inclusions directly under the table of the ruby. In the images and video seen online, they appear to be very low relief, and so remain less of a distraction as you might imagine – judging from its size. Color is obviously what we see, and it is stunning!
Metal: Platinum and 18k yellow gold
Marked: Ruser
Estimate: $60,000 – $80,000
Sold: $60,000
Ruser: William Ruser was a Beverly Hills jeweler to the stars. 1947-1969.
Great Use of Cutting Styles to Match Gem Materials
This is a pair of Fred Multi-Stone, Diamond, 18 karat yellow gold Earrings, French
The gemstones are carved amethysts and pink tourmalines. There are heart-shaped citrines and full-cut diamonds (weighing approximately 3.25 carats), along with carved mother-of-pearl.
Metal: 18k gold
Marked: for FRED; French hallmarks
Gross Weight: 42.20 grams
Estimate: $5,000 – $7,000
“Sold: $7,500“
Measurements on the Amethysts are approximately 20.00 x 13.00 x 7.00 mm, while the pink tourmalines measure approximately 15.00 x 11.00 x 6.00 mm.
Fred: Fred Samuel was a Parisian jeweler to the stars. Unlike Ruser, FRED became a globally recognized name.
It’s Not About The Gem Material
Here we have a pair of Diane Von Furstenberg for H. Stern Rock Crystal Quartz and Diamond, 18K yellow Gold Convertible Earrings.
H Stern is known for taking available Brazilian gem materials, like rock crystal quartz, cutting them in an artful manner – unique from the traditional style, setting them with diamonds in yellow gold, and creating something note-worthy. And these earrings are just that. Set with just under a carat of diamonds, these rock crystal quartz earrings sold for $10,000!
Estimate: $5,000 – $7,000
Sold: $10,000
Heritage tells us that the overall condition of the earrings is Excellent.
“Both upper and lower sections bear the maison’s signature star mark for H. Stern. The earrings are preserved in excellent condition with faint evidence of previous handling.”
4.41 Carats, Internally Flawless, E Color, Emerald Cut Diamond – What’s Not To Like?
Next up, a Diamond and Platinum Ring, featuring an Emerald-cut diamond weighing 4.41 carats, graded E, Internally Flawless by GIA, accented by two pear shape diamonds weighing a total of approximately 1.00 carat, and graded D-E-F, Internally Flawless
What drew our attention was the East-West setting of the emerald cut, and the diamond’s very large table, allowing us to view the reflections of facets in the pavilion. As a former diamond grader, we would tend to be quite judgmental on measurements, but the beauty speaks for itself. (See the Marquise below for further evidence of beauty vs. measurements.)
Sold: $100,000
What Were They Thinking?
The Mounting May Be The Issue Here
Can you guess what caught our attention here? While the Fancy Light Bluish Green center diamond is quite beautiful, that dome of surrounding rose cut pear shape diamonds is “Interesting.”
The Fancy Color diamonds are pretty, and the large rose cut diamonds certainly note-worthy. But together, in this design? mmm
2.21-carat Fancy Light Bluish Green Colored Diamond, accented by a halo of pink diamonds.
*Note: Pink colored diamonds not tested for origin of color
GIA Report # 5151210769, dated May 31, 2024, stating Natural, Fancy Light Bluish Green, SI1 clarity, Even Color
Estimate: $80,000 – $100,000
Sold: ?
“This architectural ring centers a cushion-cut Fancy Light Bluish Green diamond, prong-set in rose gold and framed by a halo of pink diamonds.”
“The high-domed design is pavé-set with rose-cut diamonds, forming a dense, layered texture that evokes the intricate structure of a woven nest.”
*Due to the complexity of the design, sizing should be approached with caution. Radical adjustments are not recommended and may pose structural challenges.
Compliments to the Cutter: Very Shallow, But Very Pretty
Diamond, Platinum Ring
Stones: Marquise-shaped diamond weighing 5.34 carats; tapered baguette-cut diamonds
weighing a total of approximately 0.50 carat
Metal: Platinum
Gross Weight: 5.70 grams
Estimate: $80,000 – $100,000
Sold: $150,000.00
At the center lies a marquise-cut diamond measuring 19.41 x 9.84 x 4.73 mm, framed by a pair of tapered baguette diamonds measuring 7.00 x 2.50 mm each.
Should we do the math?
By the numbers, we have a 63% table with a 48.1% total depth. The online views from the side show very shallow crown angles, and quite possibly, pavilion angles too. We are all taught that to have better light return, this diamond should have taller crown angle and steeper pavilion angles. But for whatever reason we are obviously not aware of, the diamond looks great!
“Graded D color, the center stone sits at the top of the GIA scale, signifying a complete absence of body color, a distinction especially notable in a diamond of this size. Clarity characteristics include a low-relief feather on one crown facet and a crystal near the center, both internal and not visible without magnification.”
Different Fred, Better Results
Fred Leighton Sapphire, Diamond, White Gold Earrings
Fine quality Sapphire beads, accented up top by full-cut round brilliant diamonds weighing a total of approximately 2.20 carats, and below, faceted diamond beads – LOVE the look! The quality of the sapphire beads make all the difference.
Metal: 18k white gold
Marked: Fred Leighton; 30671
Estimate: $8,000 – $10,000
Sold: $8,750.00
300 Carats of Sapphire in this 40-inch Necklace!
Multi-Color Sapphire, Diamond,
White Gold Convertible Necklace
Stones: Oval-shaped multi-color sapphires weighing a total of approximately 300.00 carats;
full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.50 carat
Metal: 18k white gold, black rhodium
Gross Weight: 175.60 grams (just under a half pound.)
Estimate: $6,000 – $8,000
Sold: $35,000.00
“Color takes the lead in this two-piece necklace set, composed of bezel-set, oval-shaped sapphires in a wide range of hues. Measuring 19 inches and 20 inches respectively, the necklaces are fitted with precision clasps that allow them to connect seamlessly into a single, continuous strand measuring approximately 40 inches. The combined necklace offers versatile styling, worn long, doubled, or layered, without visible breaks or mismatches between the two sections.”
Classic, and Stunning
South Sea Cultured Pearl, Colored Diamond, White Gold Necklace
Stones: Full-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 2.25 carats
Pearls: South Sea cultured pearls measuring 13.00 mm – 14.50 mm
Metal: 18k white gold
Gross Weight: 113.90 grams
Dimensions: 17 inches x 9/16 inch
*Note: Colored diamonds not tested for origin of color
Property Sold to Benefit the St. Vincent Ferrer Church Restoration Fund
Estimate: $7,000 – $9,000
Sold: $13,750
“The pearls in this strand exhibit a rich and varied palette, characteristic of Tahitian pearls, renowned for their naturally dark body colors and enticing overtones. The strand showcases body colors ranging from deep charcoal gray and steel to light silver-gray, with several pearls revealing bronze, aubergine, and greenish-black tones. A few pearls display less common hues, such as pistachio green and rosé-tinted gray, adding to the strand’s visual complexity.”
“Fitted with a twist-style diamond ball clasp, the necklace offers secure closure with ease of use. Though unmarked, the piece bears all the hallmarks of a high-quality mixed South Sea pearl strand, distinguished by its lustrous surfaces, color variation, and steady graduation in size.”
And Finally for Us Here – Carved Russian Emeralds!
Maybe More Testing and More History is Needed
Russian Emerald, Diamond, Natural Pearl, Cultured Pearl, White Gold Necklace
Here we see emerald beads and carvings, accented by Old European, full, and octagonal-cut diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 2.20 carats.
The emeralds and diamonds are strung with at least one natural pearl, measuring approximately 5.52 x 5.41 mm, and cultured pearls, measuring 2.00 – 4.50 mm
Estimate: $10,000 – $15,000
Sold: $7,500
“A masterwork of old-world opulence! Curiously, the drop portion just below the largest emerald carving has been affixed by tying cord to a segment of the under gallery. The tassel is capped with a prominently placed pearl measuring 5.52 x 5.41 mm, the only one tested by GIA and confirmed to be of natural origin.
The smallest emerald carving measures approximately 13.00 x 16.30 x 4.40 mm, while the largest, GIA-assessed, measures 20.75 x 23.25 x 4.89 mm. The clasp is crafted in a classic box design and accented with full-cut diamonds. Some of the European cuts set into the main display bear minor, non-eye-visible chips. The necklace is stamped for 18k gold and bears an unidentified maker’s mark alongside the fineness.”
After seeing so many Colombian and Zambian emeralds over the years, seeing a Russian emerald is quite the novelty.
All right – That’s all for us here, but there are hundreds more items to see!
Tap here to see all of the Heritage Auction items up for sale last Monday
