You will often see auction previews here in the Roskin Gem News Report. We love to highlight the High Jewelry, Magnificent Jewels and Royal Jewels auctions, simply because they are filled with extraordinarily rare and highly valued pieces.
But there are plenty of other auctions we cover that offer not only beautiful jewels, but pieces at more accessible price points (they’re actually affordable!).
The Heritage Auctions sales we cover are often loaded with jewelry that runs the gamut — antique and estate to modern, signed and unsigned, classic designs to the unique.
Heritage Auctions’ September 28 Fine Jewelry sale catalogue is the perfect model! There are important signed jewels, large colored diamonds, large colored gemstones, important cultured pearls — and more than a few pieces that made us stop for a closer look.
We chose several pieces for you here that have keen gemological interest. And there’s more, but you will need to open up the Heritage Fine Jewelry auction catalogue to see for yourself. (The link is below.)
Yellow Diamonds
There are several important yellow diamonds in this auction, enough that they make an interesting grouping all by themselves.
And they cover quite a range. At one end are two diamonds that aren’t technically “Fancy Color” diamonds yet, but they are very popular at the moment: a 5.10-carat emerald-cut diamond in an Aldo Cipullo for Cartier ring, and a 6.08-carat cut-cornered square modified brilliant in a Takat ring. Both are graded by GIA in the U–V color range. (Close, but …)
Then we move into Fancy Color: a 3.00-carat Fancy Light Yellow; at least four Fancy Yellow diamonds, weighing 5.76, 7.41, 14.11 and 22.09 carats; and a 4.00-carat Fancy Intense Yellow.
The 5.76-carat Fancy Yellow, VVS1, is mounted by Tiffany & Co.
And the 14.11-carat Fancy Yellow, VVS2, is mounted in an Oscar Heyman piece.
Then there is the largest of the group — the 22.09-carat Internally Flawless, Fancy Yellow, known as the “Kimberley Sunshine Diamond,” mounted by British jeweler Pragnell. Reportedly, this diamond was discovered in South Africa’s Kimberley Diamond Mine, hence the name.
Quite a nice lineup of yellows.
Then We Have Colored Gemstones
The colored gemstone selection gave us plenty to choose from, too.
Not surprisingly, two Paraíba tourmalines caught our attention — particularly considering how much we’ve been talking about Paraíba lately. One is a 5.15-carat oval Paraíba-type tourmaline from Mozambique. Good size, and good color. The other is considerably smaller — just 0.68 carat — but the color is great. GIA identifies this one as Brazilian. Even weighing under one carat, with its vivid color and Brazilian origin, we expect some strong bidding on this one.
Tourmaline, weighing 0.68 ct., of Brazilian Origin
And then, sitting elsewhere in the same auction, is a pair of elongated, pear-shaped dark blue indicolite tourmalines weighing approximately 23 carats total weight. You’ll see those below.
There are emeralds as well, including a pair of Colombian emerald earrings totaling 7.48 carats, accompanied by a C. Dunaigre report noting insignificant clarity enhancement, and a Colombian trapiche emerald necklace with that unmistakable six-spoke pattern and central hexagonal growth zone. You will see that one below here as well.
Add an unheated Burma ruby, a stellar-spectacular necklace containing 161.28 carats of Burma star rubies and star sapphires — with one ruby apparently showing a 12-rayed star — and a circa-1935 Bvlgari sapphire and diamond bracelet, and there is plenty here for the colored gemstone crowd.
We Have Pearls Too
We pulled just two pearl lots that, for us, stood out from the rest — but they couldn’t be more different.
One is a 34-inch strand of 62 white South Sea round cultured pearls, graduating from 12.10 to 14.70 mm.
The other isn’t a cultured pearl at all. It’s a near-round Melo melo pearl measuring 18.90 × 18.00 mm, set in a diamond and platinum ring attributed to Adria de Haume.
Melo pearls are non-nacreous natural pearls produced by the Melo melo sea snail. Instead of the orient we associate with nacreous pearls, they can display distinctive patterns and the flame-like structure for which Melo melo pearls are prized.
These are just a handful of the lots in Heritage’s upcoming September 28 Fine Jewelry auction.
They caught our eye, and maybe they will catch yours too.
YELLOW DIAMONDS
Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Diamond, Gold, Sterling Silver Ring
First up, the first of two U–V light yellow color diamonds — we expect this to catch a lot of attention. Here we have a bezel-set emerald-cut diamond weighing 5.10 carats, GIA graded VS2, U–V color. Definitely light yellow in body color, and falls just short of the color needed to move beyond the D-to-Z color grading scale into Fancy Color.
GIA Report #2235984074, dated June 19, 2026.
Estimate: $20,000–$40,000.
Aldo Cipullo, creator of the Cartier Love bracelet
Born in Rome into a jewelry-making family, Cipullo moved to New York in 1959, where his career included work for David Webb, Tiffany & Co. and Cartier. Known for clean, modern designs and unconventional inspiration — from screws and nails to knots and even pasta — he became one of the most distinctive jewelry designers of his generation. Cipullo later established his own firm and, in 1974, received the Coty Award for his influence on men’s jewelry design.
Takat Diamond, Colored Diamond, Gold Ring
Also GIA graded as U–V light yellow, this cut-cornered
square-shaped brilliant weighs 6.08 carats, and was clarity graded SI1.
GIA Report # 6243010244, dated July 21, 2026.
Estimate: $30,000 – $40,000.
Takat, three generations of gemstone expertise
Founded in Jaipur, India, in 1955 by Haji Nisar Ahmed Takat, the family business began by specializing in gemstone cutting and polishing. Under the second generation, brothers Siraj and Rafeeq Takat, the company expanded into an international gemstone business. Today, the third generation continues the family tradition, with operations extending to New York and Hong Kong and a focus on fine gemstones and jewelry.
*Note: Both jewelers chose to bezel set these diamonds in yellow gold, accenting (and accentuating) the diamonds’ natural color.
And Now We Move Into Fancy Color
So, when does a yellow diamond become a Fancy Color diamond? It’s not simply what comes after Z.
Diamonds in the D-to-Z range are color graded through the back, “table-down,” but as they approach the yellow end of the scale, they are also examined face-up. If a diamond does not show enough color face-up to exceed the face-up appearance of the Z master, it remains within the D-to-Z scale.
But here’s where it gets interesting.
A diamond can still have bodycolor that falls within the D-to-Z range when viewed table-down, yet show more yellow than the Z master when viewed face-up. When that happens, the diamond crosses into GIA’s Fancy Color grading system.
And the first grade on the other side of that line is Fancy Light Yellow.
Which brings us to our next diamond…
Fancy Light Yellow Diamond, Colored Diamond, Diamond, Gold Ring
This is a cushion-shaped GIA graded Fancy Light Yellow diamond weighing 3.00 carats, clarity graded SI1.
GIA Report # 6231796593, dated July 21, 2026.
Estimate: $6,000 – $8,000.
A little more face-up color…
Tiffany & Co. Fancy Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring
Now we are seeing more color, with this cut-cornered square-shaped modified brilliant (square Radiant) GIA graded VVS1, Fancy Yellow diamond, weighing 5.76
carats, by Tiffany & Co.
GIA Report # 2231937365, dated April 27, 2026.
Estimate: $50,000 – $70,000.
Tiffany & Co., an American jewelry icon
Founded in New York in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany, Tiffany & Co. grew from a luxury goods retailer into one of America’s best-known jewelry houses. In 1886, the company introduced its now-famous six-prong Tiffany Setting, designed to raise the diamond above the band and allow more light to reach the stone. Over the years, Tiffany has also been home to some of jewelry’s most important designers, including Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Elsa Peretti, Angela Cummings and Paloma Picasso.
Fancy Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring
Like the Tiffany piece, this stone has more face-up color… a cut-cornered rectangular-shaped GIA graded VVS1 (potentially Internally Flawless with minor repolishing), Fancy Yellow diamond weighing 7.41 carats.*
GIA Report # 1242010243, dated July 21, 2026.
*With 7.41 carats, we have more than enough weight to work with to get the Internally Flawless grade and still keep the diamond well above 7 carats. The question is, will it make that much of a difference to the next buyer to risk putting the diamond back on the polishing wheel – where anything can happen? – gr
Oscar Heyman VVS2, Fancy Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring
This rectangular-shaped brilliant GIA graded Fancy Yellow diamond weighs 14.11 carats.
GIA Report # 12535019, dated June 25, 2026.
Heritage Auction Estimate: $100,000 – $150,000.
(Heritage notes that the original Oscar Heyman Retail Value – $350,000)
Oscar Heyman, master jewelers behind some very famous names
Founded in New York in 1912 by members of the Heyman family, Oscar Heyman & Brothers became known for extraordinary platinum work and for creating jewels for some of America’s most prestigious jewelry houses. RGNR readers may remember our feature on Oscar Heyman and the remarkable craftsmanship behind its invisible-set jewels. More than a century after its founding, Oscar Heyman remains a family-owned New York jewelry house.
Pragnell Fancy Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring, English
Auction Highlight, The Kimberley Sunshine Diamond, a cushion-shaped GIA graded Internally Flawless, Fancy Yellow diamond, weighing 22.09 carats, set in Platinum and 18k yellow gold, signed, Pragnell.
GIA Report # 5221906615, dated April 25, 2023, stating Fancy Yellow
color, Even, Internally Flawless clarity
Estimate: $200,000 – $250,000.
The 22.09-carat Fancy Yellow, Internally Flawless “Kimberley Sunshine Diamond” takes its name from its documented origin at South Africa’s historic Kimberley Mine. The ring is accompanied by a GIA Natural Colored Diamond Report, Pragnell Certificate of Origin, original hand-drawn design rendering, and Pragnell presentation boxes.
Pragnell, a third-generation British family jeweler
Founded in Stratford-upon-Avon in 1954 by gemologist George Pragnell, the company remains family-owned and is now led by its third generation.
And There Are Some Loose Stones…
Here is just a sampling of some large unmounted gemstones also included in the Heritage Fine Jewelry auction:
35.76 ct Tourmaline
Lot 55129
Estimate: $15,000–$20,000
62.97 ct Tanzanite
Lot 55130
Estimate: $10,000–$15,000
34.17 ct Tanzanite
Lot 55131
Estimate: $8,000–$10,000
171.59 ct Kunzite
Lot 55132
Estimate: $5,000–$7,000
And a 4.00 ct. GIA Graded VS1, Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond
A cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut (Radiant) measuring 9.58 x 7.92 x 5.65 mm
GIA Report: # 5232775947
Estimate: $40,000 – $60,000.
COLORED STONES
Mozambique Paraíba-Type Tourmaline, Diamond, Platinum Ring
Here we have an oval-shaped tourmaline weighing 5.15 carats, the first of two paraiba tourmalines we have highlighted here.
GIA Report # 6462738131, dated June 14, 2023, stating Tourmaline,
Mozambique Origin / Treatment: N/A.
Estimate: $30,000 – $40,000.
Brazil Paraíba Tourmaline, Diamond, White Gold Ring
This pear-shaped tourmaline weighs 0.68 carats
GIA Report # 5242030337, dated August 12, 2026, stating Paraíba
Tourmaline, Brazilian Origin
Estimate: $10,000 – $15,000.
Indicolite Tourmaline, Diamond, Platinum, White Gold Earrings
Even though Paraíba has been getting most of the attention, these indicolites should be showstoppers. Elongated pear-shaped indicolite tourmalines, weighing a total of
approximately 23.00 carats, set in platinum and 18k white gold.
Estimate: $20,000 – $30,000.
Colombian Trapiche Emerald, Diamond, White Gold Necklace
We love the rare and unique gem materials, too.
Here’s a beautiful trapiche emerald cabochon, with six very distinct sections, and a nice hexagonal core.
GIA Report # 2241037047, dated August 20, 2026
Estimate: $15,000 – $20,000.
Trapiche
Named after the spoked grinding wheels once used in the Muzo region of Colombia for sugar, trapiche emeralds are the rarest form of emerald. They are typically fashioned as cabochons to showcase their distinctive six-rayed structure.
Colombian Emerald, Diamond, Gold Earrings
Colombian pear-shaped emeralds weighing a total of 7.48 carats, accompanied by a C. Dunaigre Lab Report # CDC 2411034/1&2, dated November 5, 2024, stating Natural Beryl, Emerald, Colombian Origin, Indications of Insignificant Clarity Enhancement
Heritage notes that these emeralds exhibit “the richly saturated
green coloration characteristic of fine Colombian material.”
Sabrina Burma Ruby, Diamond, Platinum Ring-Pendant Stones:
Oval-shaped ruby weighing 2.56 carats; pear-shaped rubies weighing a
total of 1.89 carats; full-cut diamonds weighing a total of
approximately 1.00 carat Metal: Platinum Marked: Sabrina Gross Weight:
13.00 grams Pendant Dimensions: 7/8 inch x 5/8 inch Ring Size: 6-1/2
(sizeable)
Sabrina Burma Ruby, Diamond, Platinum Ring-Pendant
One central “oval”-shaped Burmese ruby, weighing 2.56 carats, surrounded by ten (10) pear shaped rubies, weighing a total of 1.89 carats.
Marked: Sabrina
This ruby ring is accompanied by a Gübelin Report #23112057, dated November 20, 2023, stating Natural
Corundum, Ruby, Burma (Myanmar) Origin, No Indications of Heating.
Estimate: $30,000 – $40,000.
Burma Star Ruby, Burma Star Sapphire, Diamond, Platinum, Gold
Necklace
Star rubies and star sapphires, weighing a
total of 161.28 carats
GIA Report # 2235559114, dated April 17, 2025, stating Natural
Corundum, Three (3) Natural Star Sapphires, Burma (Myanmar) Origin, No
Indications of Heating.
Estimate: $10,000 – $15,000.
The accompanying GIA report affirms that all the stones
tested by GIA are natural corundum hailing from Burma, and with no
indications of treating.
While we do not see it in the image above, apparently, one of the star rubies displays a 12-ray star.
Bvlgari Art Deco Sapphire, Diamond, Platinum Bracelet, circa 1935
This beautiful bracelet was made using baguette-cut diamonds, approximately 4.00 cts. t.w.,
single-cut diamonds, approximately 5.70 cts. t.w., square-shaped sapphires, approximately 10.35 cts. t.w., and sapphire cabochons.
Platinum, marked Bvlgari
Estimate: $20,000 – $30,000
Bvlgari, one of Italy’s great jewelry houses
Founded in Rome in 1884 by Greek-born silversmith Sotirio Bulgari, Bvlgari developed a distinctive Italian style drawing upon its Greek and Roman heritage. The family business became known for important gemstones, bold use of color and jewels that attracted an international clientele of aristocrats, collectors and celebrities. More than 140 years after its founding, Bvlgari remains one of the world’s best-known luxury jewelry houses and is today part of LVMH.
Sapphire, Diamond, White Gold Brooch
Set with square and calibré-cut sapphires weighing a total of approximately 13.50 carats, with full-cut
diamonds weighing a total of approximately 4.00 carats, has been estimated to sell between $10,000–$15,000. (If you were considering a gift for your favorite gemstone editor, please place this at the top of the list. – gr)
Ilka Bahn Spessartine Garnet, Diamond, Ring
It’s not all that often we see Spessartine Garnet at auction. This large round-shaped spessartine, weighing approximately 14.00 carats, sits atop this 18 karat yellow gold ring.
By Ilka Bahn, with matching earrings with spinel drops.
GIA Report # 5242027340, dated August 19, 2026, stating Natural
Spinel, Burma (Myanmar) Origin, No Indications of Heating
Estimate: $5,000 – $7,000.
Bird on a Rock – This Time, a Citrine
Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Citrine, Diamond, Ruby, Platinum, Gold
Brooch
In the classic Tiffany Bird on a Rock brooch, we have a cushion-shaped citrine, weighing approximately 65.00 carats, accented by approximately 2.65 carats of full-cut diamonds
Marked: Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Estimate: $20,000 – $30,000.
A Portion of the Proceeds to Benefit Charities
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.: French-born Jean Schlumberger began his career designing costume jewelry for Elsa Schiaparelli before joining Tiffany & Co. in 1956, where he became one of the firm’s most celebrated designers. Inspired by the natural world — birds, flowers, butterflies and sea life — Schlumberger transformed those forms into imaginative jewels using important gemstones and colorful enamel. He was also one of the few Tiffany designers permitted to sign his creations, which remain highly collectible today.
PEARLS
South Sea Cultured Pearl Necklace
A very nice necklace of 62 South Seas round cultured pearls, measuring 12.10 mm – 14.70 mm 34 inches x 1/2 inch
Estimate: $7,000 – $9,000.
Adria de Haume Melo Melo Pearl, Diamond, Platinum Ring
Melo Melo pearl measuring 18.90 x 18.00 mm, accented by over 50 full-cut round brilliants weighing a total of approximately 0.50 carats.
In platinum, attributed to: Adria de Haume
Estimate: $15,000 – $20,000.
from the Heritage catalogue: The size and shape of this pearl variety are exceptionally rare and spectacular. The setting of the ring lets the pearl’s natural shape and flame structure shine. The pearl appears to be perched within a delicate circlet of diamonds and platinum and attached to a shank of diamonds and platinum. There is a very small amount of adhesive present, helping to secure the pearl in place, though it is only visible under magnification. The inside of the shank is marked for platinum and with a maker’s mark attributed to Adria de Haume. Due to the delicate tension holding the pearl in place, this ring is not resizable.
Adria de Haume, artist and jewelry designer
New York-based Adria de Haume founded her jewelry company in 2000. A graduate of the University of Michigan, her work has been exhibited internationally and is represented in institutional collections including the Yale Peabody Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, and the University of Michigan Museum of Art. Drawing inspiration from fashion, nature, literature and history, de Haume is known for combining unusual materials with jewelry design.
Others To Watch For
Ruven Perelman Diamond, Plique-à-Jour Enamel, Gold Brooch
Plique-à-jour enamel in 18k yellow gold.
By Ruven Perelman
3-7/8 inches x 2-1/2 inches
Estimate: $5,000 – $7,000.
from the Heritage catalogue: This intricate iris flower design features exceptional plique-à-jour enamel throughout the
twisting, organic design of the flower. The panels of translucent enamel graduate through green, purple, pink, and yellow tones, allowing light
to pass through the open panels and animate the surface in a stained-glass effect. The stems of the iris flowers are diamond-studded
18k gold. This type of enamel, exquisitely difficult to achieve with such perfection, is in phenomenal condition here. One or two enamel
panels show a minute scratch, but overall, there are no chips or damage of note.
Ruven Perelman, seventh-generation goldsmith
Born into a family with six previous generations of goldsmiths, Perelman began enameling gold in his father’s workshop at the age of 10. He later studied at the Art Institute Benvenuto Cellini in Italy, where he trained in gemology and the art of precious metals. Based in Naples, Florida, since 1982, Perelman creates one-of-a-kind art jewelry, continuing a family tradition that reaches back to pre-revolutionary Russia.
Seaman Schepps Rock Crystal Quartz, Gold Bracelet
Carved rock crystal quartz with 18 karat yellow gold.
Marked Seaman Schepps
Estimate: $15,000 – $20,000.
Seaman Schepps, master of unconventional materials
One of America’s most distinctive 20th-century jewelry designers, Schepps began creating his own jewels in the 1920s and became known for bold designs incorporating unexpected materials — shell, wood, coral, turquoise, rock crystal and even glass — alongside precious gemstones. His colorful, sculptural jewels attracted an extraordinary clientele, from the Rockefellers and British royalty to Marlene Dietrich and Andy Warhol. Schepps died in 1972, but the company continues his distinctive design legacy today.
Last on our list today…
Vhernier Ebony, Gold Necklace
Whenever there’s an unusual gem material, we love to highlight it. And here, we have wood.
Carved ebony with 18 karat yellow gold. 16 inches x 1 inch
Estimate: $5,000 – $7,000.
**Condition Report*:**Colored Gems: Type(s): Ebony Wood Shape(s):
Carved Count: 1 – 25 Avg Quality: Good
Metals: Gold
Vhernier, modern Italian design
Founded as a jewelry workshop in Valenza, Italy, in 1984, Vhernier is known for sculptural, contemporary jewelry created by highly skilled Italian craftsmen. The house frequently combines precious metals and gemstones with unconventional materials, including ebony, rock crystal and titanium. Carlo Traglio became president in 2001, expanding the company while maintaining its emphasis on traditional Italian craftsmanship.
Tap here to visit the full catalogue of what’s coming up in the Heritage Fine Jewelry Auction
