Results from Christie’s Geneva Auction: JAR, Graff, Cartier, and more!

Christie’s will proudly boast of the 6 million CHF sale of the 202 carat Fancy Intense Yellow pear shape diamond, the Yellow Rose, and rightfully so. It is certainly impressive… for its face up beauty, and its weight. We did take note of the diamond cutter’s weight saving technique in our May the Fourth newsletter in our review of the upcoming auction. For those of you who did not see that review, we pointed to the profile view of the diamond, which is unexpected. You can see that profile view here, below, in our auction results report.

Moving on, there were many beautiful pieces in this auction, including two fabulous Cartier clocks, a couple of stunning Burma rubies, several Kashmir sapphires including a Graff Burmese sugarloaf, some impressively large colorless diamonds, and several outstanding strands of natural pearls… All of which can be seen below in our highlights review.

One quick note: We do often times rely heavily on the website catalogues from Christie’s, but their website went down last week and is still not quite back up to “normal.” So there are a few items we are reporting on here that do not have quality images.


Lot #4 –
No image, but an amazing matched pair of 4 carat Kashmir sapphire earrings. ILLARIO MID-20TH CENTURY SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, featuring cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphires, weighing 4.31 and 4.06 carats.
Estimated at: 100,000-150,000 CHF – Sold for: 844,200 CHF (over 5 times the high estimate)

Lot #32 –
A 30 carat D, Internally Flawless Pear shape Type IIa diamond. Very pretty! Shown mounted in a plain platinum pendant mounting.
Estimated at: 1,600,000-2,600,000 CHF -Sold for: 2,041,500 CHF


Lot #45 –
Pictured above is this TIFFANY & CO., JEAN SCHLUMBERGER COLOURED SAPPHIRE, TURQUOISE AND DIAMOND ‘HEDGES AND ROWS’ NECKLACE, featuring cushion-shaped yellow sapphires, cabochon turquoises, and round diamonds, made in the 1960s, of 18k yellow gold and platinum, signed Tiffany, Schlumberger.
Estimate at: 250,000-400,000 CHF – Sold for: 1,255,000 CHF (3 times the high estimate!)


Lot #46 –
IMPORTANT EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING
Set with an octagonal step-cut Colombian emerald of 15.94 carats, accented by round emeralds and diamonds, set in platinum.
SSEF, 2024, report no. 136442: 15.940 carats, Colombian, no indications of clarity modification in fissures.
Estimated at: 700,000-1,000,000 CHF – Sold for: 945,000 CHF


Lot #47 –
EXCEPTIONAL SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
You can see that Kashmir blue velvet color here in this cushion-shaped sapphire of 11.03 carats, accented by fancy-shaped diamond shoulders, set in platinum.
With an SSEF, 2024, report no. 137180: 11.033 carats, Kashmir, no indications of heating, with an Appendix Letter stating the exceptional qualities of this sapphire.
Also with a Gübelin, 2024, report no. 24030027: 11.03 carats, also Kashmir, with no indications of heating, and an Information Sheet on Unheated sapphires.
Estimated at: 750,000-1,200,000 CHF – Sold for: 1,255,000 CHF


Lot #48 –
IMPORTANT COLOURED SAPPHIRE RING
Cushion-shaped pink sapphire of 25.20 carats, set in platinum (here seen loose)
Accompanied by an SSEF, 2024, report no. 137644: Ceylon (Sri Lanka), no indications of heating, with an Appendix Letter
Also accompanied by an AGL, 2009, report no. CS 40739: pink sapphire of 25.20 carats, Ceylon (Sri Lanka), with no gemological evidence of heat


Lot #51 –
DIAMOND RING MOUNTED BY CARTIER
Pear shape brilliant-cut diamond of 20.02 carats, accented by round brilliant cut diamonds, set in platinum, signed MT Cartier
GIA, 2023, report no. 1152675820: 20.02 carats, D colour, Internally Flawless, Type IIa
Estimated at: 900,000-1,600,000 CHF – Sold for: 1,376,000 CHF


Lot #66 –
TAFFIN DIAMOND RING
TAFFIN – A New York based high jewellery house founded by James de Givenchy in 1996, renowned for its sculptural designs and use of unusual materials. Using unique and rare stones, he combines them with contemporary designs to create one-of-a-kind works of art.

At auction we have an (almost square) emerald-cut diamond of 23.15 carats, accented by single-cut diamonds, set in platinum, and signed Taffin.
Accompanied by a GIA, 2020, report no. 1122698735: 23.15 carats, D colour, Flawless, excellent polish and symmetry, Type IIa.
Estimated at: 1,250,000-1,800,000 CHF – Sold for: 1,497,000 CHF


Spoiler alert! For those unfamiliar with the Cartier Mystery Clock, the mystery is with the minute and hour hands, floating in what looks like mid air. Yes, you can see right through the clock to the white backdrop of the photography stand. The hands are actually mounted on two separate and geared disks (some reports say “glass disks” while others say “crystal” disks) that rotate as the clock movement, hidden in the base, operates the gears.

Lot #70 –
CARTIER ART DECO MOTHER-OF-PEARL, ROCK CRYSTAL, ONYX AND DIAMOND ‘MODEL A’ MYSTERY CLOCK
This is a classic Cartier mystery clock, designed with a mother-of pearl dial and panels, carved rock crystal case, carved onyx base, gold Roman numerals, with rose-cut diamonds, a key wound movement, accented by silver and 18k yellow gold (French marks), circa 1925, signed Cartier. Comes with a key and later red fitted Cartier case.
Size/Dimensions: 13.8 x 9.1 x 5.2 cm (including the base)
Estimated at: 250,000-400,000 CHF – Sold for: 541,800 CHF


Lot #71 –
CARTIER ART DECO LACQUER AND MULTI-GEM MINUTE REPEATER TABLE CLOCK
Here we have a clock with a rectangular burgauté lacquer dial, with mother-of-pearl Roman numerals, accented by rose-cut diamonds, carved jade and jade panels, an onyx top and base, with red enamel, and 18k yellow gold. This key-wound movement art deco clock was made circa 1927, and signed Cartier. Comes with a key and red fitted Cartier case.
Size/Dimensions: 12.3 x 6.1 x 4.5 cm
Estimated at: 100,000-150,000 CHF – Sold for: 945,000 CHF (WOW! Over 6 times the high estimate!)


Lot #98 –
NATURAL COLOURED PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE

This is a marvelous necklace with variously-shaped natural pearls and seed pearls of different hues, some faceted beads, with single-cut and round diamonds, with platinum and gold.
Accompanied by an SSEF, 2023, report no. 133418: natural pearls, saltwater (except for a few seed pearls,) no indications of artificial colour modification (based on a sampling).
Size/Dimensions: 41.0 cm long
Estimated at: 180,000-270,000 CHF – Sold for: 252,000 CHF


Lot #99 –
TWO EXTRAORDINARY NATURAL PEARL SAUTOIRS

Beautiful long sautoir comprising a total of 171 round to oval and button-shaped natural pearls, ranging approximately from 12.55 to 4.45 mm; along with another beautiful shorter sautoir comprising a total of 182 round to roundish and button shaped natural pearls, ranging approximately from 10.75 to 4.10 mm.
These two necklaces are accompanied by two reports from SSEF, one from 2021, report no. 117029: 171 natural pearls, saltwater, with Appendix Letter attesting to the rare and exceptional quality of the pearls, and another also from 2021, report no. 116696: 182 natural pearls, saltwater, with Appendix Letter attesting to the rare and exceptional quality of the pearls.
Size/Dimensions: longest sautoir – 119.0 cm; shortest sautoir – 112.0 cm
Estimated at: 1,600,000-2,300,000 CHF – Sold for 2,404,000 CHF


Lot #102 –
JAR LAPIS LAZULI AND DIAMOND ‘FAN’ EARRINGS

We love showing examples of quality high end jewels created with beautiful affordable gem materials. This is a pair of earclips, created by jewelry designer JAR, using lapis lazuli plates, round brilliant cut diamonds, with 18k yellow gold and blackened silver. Signed JAR, Paris, with a pink JAR case. The value is in the jewelry artist’s design and creation of the jewels.
Estimated at: 90,000-150,000 CHF – Sold for: 107,100 CHF


Lot #104 –
JAR PAIR OF MULTI-GEM ‘VIOLET’ EARRINGS

Once again we have a jewelry artist who knows what to do with quality affordable gem materials. These earrings feature round amethysts and colorless diamonds, purple and pink sapphires, … and just a couple of round yellow diamonds, set in 18k rose gold and blackened silver, signed JAR, Paris, with an accompanying pink JAR case.
Estimated at: 150,000-250,000 CHF – Sold for: 289,800 CHF


Lot #105 –
RARE GRAFF SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING

A magnificent Burmese no heat sugarloaf sapphire of 30.37 carats, accented by diamond trilliants, set in platinum, and signed Graff in large bold letters.
Accompanied by a Gübelin, 2006, report no. 0606075: 30.37 carats, Burma (Myanmar), no indication of heating.
Estimated at 600,000-800,000 CHF – Sold for: 1,170,300 CHF


From this view, if you are familiar with the standard pear shape profile, you can see why it weighs above 200 carats. We understand the reasoning behind the design, but from the face up view showing a beautifully crafted outline, the profile view was, as we stated above, totally unexpected.

Lot #106 –
THE YELLOW ROSE
UNMOUNTED COLOURED DIAMOND

Fancy intense yellow pear modified brilliant-cut diamond of 202.18 carats
GIA, 2022, report no. 5222440622: 202.18 carats, Fancy Intense Yellow, natural colour, SI1 clarity, with excellent polish and symmetry, medium blue fluorescence
Size/Dimensions: 46.56 x 30.23 x 19.23 mm
No estimate given – Sold for: 6,095,000 CHF/ $6,710,595 US, the second highest price ever paid for a yellow stone above 200 carats at Christie’s.


Lot #107 –
EXCEPTIONAL BULGARI RUBY AND DIAMOND ‘TROMBINO’ RING

An emerald cut Burmese ruby, accented by baguette-cut and round diamonds, set in 18k yellow gold (Italian mark), signed Bvlgari.
Accompanied by an SSEF, 2023, report no. 130822: declared weight of 5.05 carats, Burma (Myanmar), no indications of heating, Pigeon Blood color.
Also accompanied by a Gübelin, 2024, report no. 24030077: Burma (Myanmar), no indications of heating, with Information Sheets on Unheated rubies and Rubies from Mogok.
Estimated at: 300,000-500,000 – Sold for: 705,000 CHF


Lot #108 –
EXCEPTIONAL CARTIER ART DECO DIAMOND AND ONYX BROOCH

And finally, a jewel for a lapel just waiting in the wings, featuring old (mostly old European cuts with a few old mine cuts) and single-cut diamonds, with an amazing assortment of meticulously fashioned and set calibré-cut, pear, square and fancy-shaped onyx, set in platinum, circa 1920, signed Cartier, New York.
Measuring 9.6 cm high
Estimated at: 280,000-450,000 CHF – Sold for: 579,600 CHF

Roskin Gem News Report
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