“Cartier, Crystallization of Time,” an exhibition at Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul
By Choi Si-young, Lee Yoon-seo, Kim Da-sol
The Korea Herald
CRYSTALLIZATION OF TIME
Held at the DDP (Dongdaemun Design Plaza), Art Hall 1, Conference Hall, the May-June exhibition “Crystallization of Time” by Cartier, is organized by the DDP operator Seoul Design Foundation for the landmark’s 10th anniversary.
Experience eternal moments. The world of Cartier’s creations transcends time.
“Gemstones, born from immense periods of time, and design, inspired by natural wonders and cultures worldwide, are crystallized in Cartier’s jewelry, where exceptional craftsmanship fuses the blessings of earth and humanity. This exhibition focuses on the powerful cultural and
creative dimensions of Cartier Collection and archive documents together with contemporary creations from private collections, usually not displayed for the public.” – Cartier
Prologue – Space of Time
The mystery of time.
The wonders of the mystery clock.
The exhibition opens with the mystery clocks and prism clocks, masterpieces that epitomize Cartier’s artistry, creativity, and technical skill. Offering more than just a perspective on ornamental art, these clocks express and embody the mysterious truth of time as a moment-by-moment pursuit of the future, while the present slips ceaselessly into the past.
Cartier, 2023
White gold, rock crystal, obsidian, chrysoprases, emeralds, onyx, diamonds
Cartier Collection
Mystery clocks, called “marvels of horology”, and prism clocks, are based on skillful optical illusions. On mystery clocks, the two hands appear to float on the dial as if there were no connection to any mechanism. In fact, the movement is hidden within the base or concealed by other surrounding decoration. Although the secret behind this mysterious complication has been disclosed, the mystery clock has been made throughout the generations, and continues to be treasured as an art piece. Cartier’s prism clocks, meanwhile, feature a remarkable design: when the clock is placed at a specific angle, directly opposite the viewer, the reflected dial appears.
Cartier Paris, 1918
Platinum, yellow gold, rock crystal, nephrite, white enamel, sapphires, diamonds
Cartier Collection
Chapter 1 – Material Transformation and Colors
What materials will be used? What colours will be conveyed?
This chapter analyzes how Cartier applies its exceptional savoir-faire to materials and colors to create the most innovative designs. From platinum enhancing diamonds to unexpected materials, such as fossilized wood, and bold color combinations of vibrant stones, this chapter testifies to Cartier’s relentless exploration of new creative approaches to jewelry design.
Treasure Pieces
At the end of each chapter is a display of Korean and Japanese antiques with Cartier jewels, highlights of this exhibition. They were specially selected by Hiroshi Sugimoto among the treasures of his personal collection and, exclusive to this venue, from a Korean private collector. It is interesting to discover how these artworks resonate with each other – the unique aesthetics and historical value of Korean and Japanese antiques and the refined art of Cartier jewelry, rooted in European culture.
Cartier, 2012
Platinum, one 141.13-carat engraved emerald, diamonds The emerald can be detached from the tiara to be worn as a brooch.
Collection of business woman Pansy Ho
This engraved emerald was first set in the ‘Berenice’ necklace exhibited at the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris in 1925.
Chapter 2 – Forms and Designs
Just as the Earth has been blessed with its beautiful gemstones, humanity, in turn, has the blessing of ideas, creativity, and crafstmanship.
This chapter showcases Cartier’s fundamental quest for pure lines and forms, which is exemplified through several key themes: “Essential Lines” and “Spheres” that represent the perfect expression of natural lines; “New Architecture” dedicated to architectural elements in jewelry design; “Optics”, or how movement can be brought into a piece of jewelry both visually and physically; “Harmony in Chaos” and “Beauty all Around”, which celebrates Cartier’s seeking of beauty wherever it might be, whether in accident or in fields seemingly unrelated to jewelry, such as couture or industry.
Stone Techniques
Tiara
Cartier Paris, special order, 1912
Platinum, carved rock crystal, diamonds
Cartier Collection
Right
Necklace
Cartier, 2021
White gold, one 275.70-carat engraved morganite, fossilized wood, rubies, morganite, onyx, diamonds
Private Collection
Evident throughout Cartier’s creations is the incomparable technical ability of its in-house artisans. One example of the crafts mastered at Cartier is glyptic, the extremely demanding art of engraving hard stones like jade, agate, jasper, quartz, or even fossilized wood. Glyptic art awakens stones that have slumbered for unimaginable eons to reshape them into new forms. The unique characteristics of each uncovered stone are used as the creative starting point. Today, this artisanal tradition is in danger of extinction and Cartier is making every effort to ensure that this knowledge is passed on to the next generation. Gemstone engraving and stringing—an art in which bead-shaped gemstones are strung on metal or fabric wire—are other stone techniques that contribute to the richness of a creation.
Cartier, 2015
White gold, one 189.345-carat opal, purple sapphires, blue sapphires, emeralds, diamonds
Cartier Collection
Chapter 3 – Universal Curiosity
Humanity’s curiosity forces it to travel, and travel provides humanity with insights.
The last chapter introduces “Universal Curiosity” as the origin of Cartier design, inspired by cultures, flora and fauna from all over the world. Born out of Louis Cartier’s vivid interest in the world, his art collection and library, this curiosity became a signature trait at Cartier, and has since freely traversed the past and the present, East and West, leading to the creation of unique and innovative pieces.
Panthère – A Timeless Symbol
The iconic Cartier image is the panther. It has been bonded with the free independent woman as she lives each new era from the past through to the future
Since its first appearance as a pattern on a wristwatch in 1914, the ‘panthère’ has become an emblematic motif for Cartier, representing the freedom of women in a new era. From figuration to abstraction, this ever-changing two-or-three dimensional motif, featured in a multitude of attitudes and gestures, is a true timeless Cartier symbol.
The Archives – The Inquisitiveness of Louis Cartier
Cartier hunted throughout the world and captured materials. The curious room in which this collection of materials is preserved is an invaluable resource.
The Cartier archives contain a wealth of documents and books on Asian, Egyptian, and Islamic art and architecture, gathered by Louis Cartier and his grandfather, along with records of artworks that belonged to Louis Cartier, who was an art collector. These materials, put together with sketches and drawings, reveal the designers’ inspiration and creative process, and reflect the Maison’s inquisitive and pioneering spirit.
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