Cartier Art Deco Clocks in the Watch Auction: XIX – Phillips Hong Kong
Hong Kong Auction 23 – 24 November 2024
Auctions always give us the opportunity to see what was, and might still be, in fashion. Mostly, the Roskin Gem News Report covers loose gems and gem-set jewelry. But on occasion, we cover other gem-set items, including watches, clocks, and decorative arts. The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction XIX allows us to venture into that area, with Cartier’s Art Deco Clocks.
Whether it be jewelry, watches, clocks, or accessories, Cartier’s use of rock crystal, mother-of-pearl, and hard stones such as onyx, rose quartz, agate, obsidian, nephrite, lapis lazuli, and more, is never ordinary, and always artful.
Take for example, Cartier’s Mystery Clocks. The use of rock crystal discs to hide the inner workings of the clock, along with its gemstone accents, are technologically amazing, and beautiful works of art. Lot 910, the Modèle A, rock crystal, mother-of-pearl, diamonds and onyx, is the pinnacle of the auction (in our humble opinion).
Art Deco Clocks by Cartier
Let’s take a look at Cartier’s Art Deco Clocks coming up for auction in Phillip’s Hong Kong Watch Auction XIX.
LOT 910
A unique, extremely rare and historically important rock crystal, mother-of-pearl, yellow gold, onyx, diamonds Art Deco mystery clock with original key and presentation box
Manufacturer: Cartier
Year: Circa 1929
Case No: 2818, stamped 0970, 1104
Model Name: Modèle A
Material: Rock crystal, mother-of-pearl, yellow gold and onyx
Calibre: Manual key-wind, European Watch & Clock Co Inc, 15 jewels
Dimensions: 13.5cm in height x 8.5cm width X 5cm length
Signed: Base signed Cartier Paris Londres New-York Made in France, further numbers 2818 and hand stamped 0970, inner yellow gold base signed European Watch & Clock Co. Inc France. Movement signed European Watch & Clock Co Inc.
Accessories: Accompanied by original Cartier presentation box and numbered key.
Literature: The gouache of the present clock is illustrated in The Cartier Collection: Timepieces by Francois Chaille et Franco Cologni, p 145
Estimate
HK$2,800,000 – 5,600,000
€333,000-666,000
$359,000-718,000
Sold for HK$5,016,500
$645,000
Why we are fascinated by Cartier’s Mystery Clocks
Truly first of its kind, the Modèle A Mystery clock captures the audience attention with its seemingly levitating hands within its transparent rock crystal frame. These first mystery creations of the Modèle A were bejewelled art pieces that shows us Cartier’s craftmanship and design.
The Secret
First devised with a double-axle mechanism, and soon after, a single central axle, the “Mystery” is solved thanks to the separate rock crystal discs hidden between two blocks of rock crystal. These discs are each set with a tooth-edged boarder that are rotated by screws fixed at the ends of the axles, hidden at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions, with the driving pinions of the hands hidden in each column of the frame. The rotation of the axles is activated by the clock movement hidden in the base. The hands appear to move because they are mounted on these discs that are turning, each disc individually set at the two different speeds, one for the hours and one for the minutes.
Celebrity History
A ground breaking timepiece, Modèle A Mystery Clocks were bought by glamourous celebrities and important figures of the society such as banker John Pierpont “J.P.” Morgan who bought the second clock created in 1913, Count Greffulhe (in 1914), Sir Bhupindra Singh, the maharajah of Patiala (in 1921), etc..
Each of these handmade clocks boast variations on the type of base: agate, onyx, obsidian, nephrite, lapis lazuli, gold and jade, while others varied by design – decorations on the frames, etc.
Made by Cartier France, the present Modèle A is incredibly important as the original drawing is documented in The Cartier Collection: Timepiece by Franco Colongi and François Chaille – the official tome by Cartier for their extensive archives. Crafted in rock crystal, gold, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds, it states that it is from 1929 in the Cartier Archives.
SIMPLE YET ELEGANT
Lot 911
A unique and magnificent rose quartz, diamonds, mother-of-pearl, enamel and yellow gold Art Deco desk clock with original key
Manufacturer: Cartier
Year: Circa 1930s
Case No: 583
Model Name: La Pendule Art Deco
Material: Rose quartz, mother-of-pearl, diamonds, enamel and 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Manual, key winding
Dimensions: 24cm height x 16cm length X 13.5cm width
Signed: Case signed European Watch & Clock Co. Inc, dial signed Cartier
Accessories: Accompanied with winding key numbered “1511”.
Estimate
HK$1,200,000 – 2,400,000
€143,000-285,000
$154,000-308,000
Sold for HK$2,921,000
$375,000
Since 1920s, Cartier mastered the Art Deco era of the Far East decorative objects for decades. Louis-Francois Cartier having been a distinguished connoisseur of oriental languages, Louis Cartier and his brothers were exposed to exoticism via fairs such as the late nineteenth century Universal Expositions in Paris at an early age. This new curiosity from the East extends from arts to architecture were known as Chinoiserie and Japonaiserie. Other sources also enriched their imagination such as the illustrations in Owen Jones’s Examples of Chinese Ornaments. Seeded with cultural inspiration, it was not until the 1920s that Cartier’s exotic taste would be translated into a series of clocks and art objects. A three-dimensional playground and a desire to “Never copy, only create”, an impressive range of techniques and exotic influences can be found in an array of mystery clocks, screen clocks, and desk clocks. From mythical creatures, animals, figurines to exotic materials, many were sourced from antique merchants or from their travels to the East. Notably these includes the Chimera carved from nephrite from China, Kuan Yin figurines, carps and elephants from 18th century jade sculptures, or lacquered scenery from screens all founded amongst Cartier’s clock creations.
An impressive creation by Cartier Paris, the present desk clock from the 1930s is inspired by the Far East. Translucent with a calming soft pink hue crafted from a massive block of rose quartz stone, the corners are elegantly shaped with smooth rounded corners also known as the “coins Japonais, Japanese corners”. Anchored with a decorative base frame with black enamel and yellow gold, the motif further encircles the Cartier signed dial of this desk clock. Set with rose-cut diamonds Roman numerals, the 5 min markers are decorated with a five petal Sakura flower graphic that harmonize with the cherry blossom glow of the rose quartz. The fanned-out marquetry works crafted with mother-of-pearl radiates in iridescent sheen, cleverly planned out in symmetry the hours are clearly divided. A large diamond sets the centre of the Art Deco hands, an “Shou” symbolled gold plate meaning longevity, adds as a finishing finesse of the Far East theme.
Lot 1021
A unique and exquisite screen table clock with green jade, rock crystal, yellow gold, enamel, marquetry mother-of-pearl and kingfisher feather mosaic dial and original winding key
Manufacturer: Cartier
Year: Circa 1928
Movement No: 2’978’659
Case No: 2619
Model Name: La Pendule Écran Art Deco
Material: Rock crystal, green jade, yellow gold, mother-of-pearl, kingfisher feather, enamel and diamonds
Calibre: Manual, European Watch and Clock Co. cal. 19.41, 19 jewels
Dimensions: 11cm length x 14.5cm height x 7.3cm width
Signed: Signed Cartier, Paris, Londres, New York, made in France
Estimate
HK$640,000 – 1,280,000
€75,500-151,000
$82,100-164,000
Sold for HK$1,587,500
$204,000
Inspired by Oriental screens, the Écran, French term for panel, was first produced in 1923. Very few examples were ever produced, thereby making each and every one a rare collectable. Crafted with in rich green jade and yellow gold, the arches are contrasted with the translucent rock crystals that are often used for Mystery clocks. The panels that frames the clock is decorated with enamel and ribbed jade columns to add a three-dimensional hand feel to the overall smooth silhouette.
Crafted from Cartier Paris as denoted on the dial, the impressive marquetry mother-of-pearl floral motif reflects a touch of femininity in contrast with the dark green jade. Extremely elegant, Cartier topped it off with a rare craft to this already stunning clock. Tian-Tsui, is a Chinese craft featuring kingfisher feathers. For 2,000 years, the Chinese have been using the iridescent quality of these blue feathers of the majestic bird as inlay for fine art objects, panels and screens. Its unique electric blue sheen from the bird achieves a vivid colour that no enamel can replicate. An extremely painstaking artisanal technique that demands the most skilled craftsmen, back in the days Cartier was able to deliver this rare trade in their Parisian workshop.
Lot 1022
An extremely attractive, well-preserved and rare rose quartz, lapis lazuli and gold desk clock with black enamel, gold and silver and diamond-set bezel, applied Roman numerals, diamond-set hands and lapis lazuli dial
Manufacturer: Cartier
Year: Circa 1927
Movement No: 305’972
Case No: Handle stamped 3306, inner case stamped 3459, 2014, hands stamped 2014 on reverse
Material: Rose quartz, lapis lazuli, yellow gold, enamel and diamonds
Calibre: Manual
Dimensions: 78 mm height, 65 mm width and 28 mm length
Signed: Dial signed Cartier
Provenance: Christie’s, Jewellery by Cartier, Geneva, 21 May 1992, lot 666
Literature: For another example of a Cartier desk clock with rose quartz case, please see The Cartier Collection, page 306.
Estimate
HK$120,000 – 240,000
€14,000-28,100
$15,400-30,800
Sold for HK$355,600
$46,000
Influenced strongly by Art Deco during the late 1910s and 1920s, Cartier’s timepieces featured distinctive identities and geometric lines, culminating in the iconic Cartier Tank and its sub-models which epitomized the golden age of design. Not limited to wristwatches, Cartier also created numerous clocks with utmost craftsmanship and timeless designs that continue to be cherished by collectors today.
The present clock is an iconic Cartier desk clock, strikingly crafted from pink quartz. Known as a symbol of love, pink quartz has historically been associated with emotional balance and the release of negative energies, often used in meditation practices. This heavy block of stone features a Japanese-style smooth rounded edge, elegantly corner-cut.
Decorated with exquisite artistry from the esteemed Haute Joaillerie maison, the dial incorporates pieces of lapis lazuli, adorned with applied gold Roman numerals and rose-cut diamond hands. A rosace pattern encircles the dial, with diamonds set at the hour markers. The striking contrast between the black enamel and blue lapis lazuli enhances the pink quartz body. The handle is further embellished with a lapis lazuli base and 18K yellow gold, contributing to the overall symmetrical appeal.
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