When Does it Become “Over the Top?” Jacob & Co.’s Billionaire Collection Now in Living Color
In a recent article from WorldTempus.com magazine, Jacob & Co., famous for their over-the-top gem encrusted time pieces, have really pushed themselves one better with a new design.
The Billionaire collection has been all about diamonds – lavish, large, colorless diamonds. Of course, to be in the Billionaire category, fancy color diamonds are even more appropriate.
In 2016, with the release of a skeleton tourbillon, the Billionaire collection began.
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This timepiece is made entirely of natural yellow diamonds: 425 Asscher-cut, IF to VVS fancy yellow diamonds, and 57 baguette-cut fancy yellow diamonds, set on its skeleton tourbillon movement.
Total weight of the 482 fancy yellow diamonds: 216.9 carats.
Added to the collection, with yellow gold case and bracelet, set with 425 Asscher-cut fancy yellow diamonds (215 ct.) and 76 Kite-shape and Emerald-cut Tsavorites (3.59 ct.). The skeleton movement is set with 57 baguette-cut fancy yellow diamonds.
For the watch enthusiast, this is a One-minute tourbillon, 167 components, with a 72-hour power reserve.
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Now in this recent article by David Chkron for WorldTempus.com,. Jacob & Co.’s Billionaire collection has expanded to colored stones.
Billionaire Colour Bomb
Jacob & Co. unleashes a trio of colour explosions in a single stroke, as its Billionaire collection replaces cool white diamonds with a dazzling array of colourful gemstones
Jacob & Co. has made a powerful statement with the release of three jewellery watchmaking marvels: Billionaire III Rubies, featuring 714 emerald-cut rubies (and a few baguette-cut rubies on the skeletonised tourbillon) totalling 147 carats; Billionaire III Emeralds, adorned with 714 emeralds weighing 102 carats; and the pièce de résistance, Billionaire III Rainbow, arguably the most ambitious Rainbow watch ever created. These are incredibly extravagant jewellery watches, from a brand that has made extravagance its signature – individual and collective masterpieces unlike anything we’ve seen before. But they didn’t appear out of thin air.
The groundwork was laid in 2023 when Jacob & Co. unveiled the Billionaire Timeless Treasure, a $20 million marvel showcasing an incredible fusion of jewellery and watchmaking. It featured 216 carats of extremely rare Asscher-cut yellow diamonds on a single watch, which also contained a skeletonised tourbillon and a gem-set movement encircled by tsavorites. Prior to this, since 2016, the Billionaires were all crafted with white diamonds, making the shift to colour a significant development.
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While high jewellery watches are not uncommon, Jacob & Co. occupies a unique position in the fully paved segment. Pieces as costly and exceptional as those with gem-set cases, bracelets and movements can certainly be found. So, what sets these three watches apart? Beyond the obvious abundance of gems, the associated price tag (in the 8-figure range) and the blast of colour, the true achievement lies in the stones themselves.
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The ruby, the queen of precious stones, is found in very few locations, and only rarely in a size, purity and colour saturation suitable for the intricate context of a watch setting. Unlike, say, a ring, where light can enter the jewel from every angle, the setting in a watch, and particularly a Billionaire, is closed, demanding stones with a delicate balance of light, colour and purity.
Moreover, a ruby like those on the Billionaire III Rubies case, the largest of which is 0.56 carats (enough for a solitaire), weighs 1.5 carats in its rough form. That’s a substantial stone, especially considering that the emerald cut requires rough stones of a specific geometry and generates significant waste during cutting. Remarkably, Jacob & Co. was able to source 714 of them – all unheated and of the same colour. That’s almost a miracle.
Tap here to read the original feature story in WorldTempus.com
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