Big Names, Big Color, & Big Natural Pearls

… and a Big Jigha!

More from the Hong Kong Sotheby’s sale, as we look at the big brands, like Graff, Winston, Buccellati, Bulgari, Hemmerle, Boucheron, Tiffany, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels. We also looked at a few very impressive diamonds, rubies, natural pearls, and, of course, being in Hong Kong, jadeite.

Cartier sold well with most being sold within the estimated range (the same being true for Graff, Boucheron, Winston, VCA, and Tiffany), with the exception of several Cartier ‘Panthères’ that just peaked over the high estimates.

Here is a ‘Panthère’ Onyx, Emerald and Diamond Necklace

Estimated at 750,000 – 1,200,000 HKD, and selling for 1,206,500 HKD

View full screen - View 2 of Lot 316. 'Panthère' Onyx, Emerald and Diamond Necklace | 卡地亞 | 'Pantheré' 縞瑪瑙, 祖母綠 及 鑽石 項鏈.

and of course, the Fancy Intense Purplish Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring. That touch of purple gives the pink diamond a darker hue, a more sophisticated appearance than a straight pink.

Estimated at 3,200,000 – 6,300,000 HKD, it sold for 9,767,000 HKD, well over the high estimate. (approximately $1,250,000 USD)

Set with a pear-shaped Fancy Intense Purplish Pink diamond weighing 2.58 carats, embellished with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, size 6, signed Cartier, numbered, French assay and maker’s marks.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 1152965427, dated 21 March 2014, stating that the Fancy Intense Purplish Pink diamond is Natural Colour, VS2 Clarity. 


The Big House winner of the night was Bulgari, with all of their Serpenti pieces reaching well-over the high estimate.

Here is a ‘Serpenti’ Emerald, Enamel and Diamond Wristwatch

Estimated at between 240,000 – 400,000 HKD, selling for 1,016,000 HKD, well over the high estimated value. (approximately $130,000 USD)

Diamond Jigha, Belle Époque

Impressive Size Diamonds

The turban ornament set with variously-shaped diamonds, weighing approximately 140 to 150 carats, mounted in white and yellow gold, fitted with a plume holder to the reverse, lower cluster and pear-shaped drop can be detached and worn as a brooch. Made in 1907, and then remodeled circa 1935.

Formerly in the collection of a Royal House, this turban ornament was also featured in two books, and has been on exhibit in several important museums.


According to the catalogue, “Feather featured in the catalogue image is not accompanied with the lot.” Seriously? They couldn’t throw that in? It sold for $1.26 million. I think they could afford to gift the feather.

Estimated at 8,000,000 – 16,000,000 HKD, and selling for 9,888,000 HKD (approximately $1,265,000 USD)

The 19th Century Convertible Tiara

“… assembling a selection of natural pearls of this size and quality is very rare and in combination with its documented royal provenance, this historic pearl tiara can be considered a true treasure of nature’.” – SSEF

Big Natural Pearls

Lot 326. Musy | Magnificent and Historic Natural Pearl and Diamond Tiara, Late 19th Century

Composed of graduated scroll motifs set with cushion-shaped, circular- and single-cut diamonds, framing eleven slightly baroque drop-shaped natural pearls measuring from approximately 11.75 x 14.10 x 21.00mm to 7.90 x 8.80 x 11.40mm, the central natural pearl supported by a rose diamond mount; the band composed of cluster and bar motifs set with cushion-shaped diamonds, inner circumference approximately 380mm, the top detachable and may be worn as a necklace, length approximately 380mm, band detachable, tiara frame signed Musy.

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 116436, dated 11 March 2021, stating that the eleven pearls were found to be natural, saltwater; further accompanied by an appendix letter stating that ‘The natural pearl tiara…possesses extraordinary characteristics and merits special mention and appreciation…assembling a selection of natural pearls of this size and quality is very rare and in combination with its documented royal provenance, this historic pearl tiara can be considered a true treasure of nature’.

Provenance: Maria Vittoria dal Pozzo della Cisterna (1847 – 1876) who married in 1867 Prince Amedeo of Savoy, Duke of Aosta, King of Spain.

Henceforth remaining in the family.

Estimated to sell between 8,000,000 – 16,000,000 HKD, the natural pearl and diamond tiara sold for 9,017,000 HKD (approximately $1,154,000 USD)

There were a few pieces we were watching that did not sell. Either there was an over estimate of the value, or an overestimate of interest. In the end, it is art. Everyone has their own taste, and opinion as to what something is worth, or affordable.

1. “The Ember Diamond”

Estimate: 4,800,000 – 6,500,000 HKD

Diamond ring set with an octagonal-shape Fancy Reddish Orange diamond weighing 1.26 carats, embellished with pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 5121038439, dated 10 May 2010, stating that the diamond is Fancy Reddish Orange, Natural Color, SI1 Clarity. 
Please note that the report is more than (10) years old and might require an update. Also accompanied by GIA Monograph stating ‘Some colors…can truly be thought of as “one in a million.” But in any given year experts would be hard-pressed to recall seeing even one reddish orange diamond…diamonds that possess a blazing reddish orange color are extremely rare…it is the largest natural color Fancy Reddish Orange diamond graded by GIA at the time…’

2. Jadeite Necklace

An Impressive Jadeite Bead, Diamond and Ruby Necklace

Estimate: 13,000,000 – 18,000,000 HKD

Composed of forty-six slightly graduated jadeite beads of intense green colour and very good translucency, completed by a clasp decorated with rose- and brilliant-cut diamonds, and calibré-cut rubies, length approximately 555mm. 

Jadeite beads approximately 12.95 to 10.34mm.

Accompanied by Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory certificate no. KJ 105480(1-3), dated 18 May 2023, stating that the jadeite tested are natural, known in the trade as “A Jade”.

Condition: Accompanied by Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory certificate no. KJ 105480(1-3), dated 18 May 2023, stating that the jadeite tested are natural, known in the trade as “A Jade”. Please refer to the certificate for further details. Metal tested as 18 karat white gold. Jadeite beads are of intense green colour, very good translucency, with some clouds and minor streaks, commonly seen in natural jadeite, not noticeable when worn. Rubies are of medium purplish red to medium red colour, strong saturation, with typical inclusions, a few surface reaching, some minor abrasions. Diamonds and bright and lively, estimated to weigh approximately 3.00 carats in total, are on average about F colour, VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Overall in very good condition.

3. Ruby and Diamond Necklace

Estimate: 8,800,000 – 12,000,000 HKD

Not only is the necklace impressive, but add to that the number of gemological reports, on the rubies, as well as all fifty diamonds!

Set with sixty-five circular-cut rubies weighing approximately 53.80 carats in total, decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18 karat yellow gold, length approximately 420mm. 

Accompanied by SSEF report and appendix no. 129787, dated 30 May 2023, stating that the rubies are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating, part of these rubies may also be called “Pigeon Blood Red”. SSEF Appendix further stating ‘The small inclusions found…are consistent with …the reputed deposit in Mong Hsu (southeast of Mogok) and for one of the larger stones from the classical ruby mines in the Mogok valley…’ . Further accompanied by Gübelin report and appendix no. 23011144, dated 12 May 2023, stating that the rubies are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating, thirty-one rubies are “Pigeon Blood Red”.

Also accompanied by fifty GIA dossiers, stating that the diamonds ranging from 0.90 to 0.30 carat are D to E Colour, Internally Flawless to VS1 Clarity.   

Roskin Gem News Report
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