The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) announced a significant win this month: loose colored gemstones and natural pearls imported from the European Union will now enter the U.S. duty-free, retroactive to September 1, 2025.
AGTA CEO John Ford told us in a phone conversation over the weekend that this breakthrough came only after months of careful lobbying and coordination at the highest levels of government.
Loose polished diamonds are also included in the US-EU agreement, but not cultured pearls.
Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
Persistence in Washington
Image courtesy of AGTA
Ford emphasized that AGTA’s approach has been “a whole-of-government effort.” Since May, he and AGTA President Bruce Bridges of Bridges Tsavorite, have made countless trips to Washington, educating lawmakers and following up with Cabinet agencies.
As reported here earlier, AGTA also hired full-time trade representatives in Washington to push these issues daily.
“It’s a huge expense,” Ford acknowledged, “but we’re working on issues that directly affect loose colored gemstones, natural and cultured pearls.”
Giving Credit Where It’s Due
In its formal press release, AGTA stressed the importance of collaboration:
“AGTA extends its gratitude to the United States Trade Representative, as well as the Departments of Commerce and Treasury, for their commitment and efforts in achieving this outcome. They have all been extremely receptive and proactive in working with us from the start.”
Next Steps
Both Ford and Bridges stressed “that none of this would be possible without the September 5, 2025, Executive order by President Trump granting an exemption to minerals not mined in the United States. AGTA thanks the many Senators and Members of the House of Representatives that sent letters and made calls to President Trump, USTR, Department of Commerce and Treasury on AGTA’s behalf that provided the industry a path forward on loose gemstone tariff exemption.”
While this is a major victory for AGTA members, and the U.S. jewelry industry as a whole, the work is far from finished. Ford noted that reciprocal tariff and security agreements are still being negotiated between the U.S. and source countries.,
“They’re in different stages,” he noted, adding that agreements can run hundreds of pages long and require patience.
This exemption marks a turning point — but the path forward, particularly AGTA’s role in helping source countries negotiate reciprocal trade agreements, will determine just how far this relief extends across the global colored gemstone trade. – gr
