The Heritage May 4th Spring Signature Fine Jewelry Auction was the familiar Heritage marathon—an all-day affair packed with everything from important signed jewels to fun and affordable estate pieces.
There were the expected heavyweights—colored diamonds, Kashmir sapphires, Burmese rubies, Colombian emeralds, tourmalines, opals, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Oscar Heyman, Bvlgari, Boucheron, Chopard, Jean Schlumberger, Henry Dunay, and Aletto Brothers. Not too surprisingly, the Kashmir sapphire emerged as the big winner.
Below, you will see the jewels we covered pre-auction, along with notes on how well they performed at the live auction, including their final sale prices.
We also have comments for those jewels that did not make the finals.
So let’s see who and what brought the top bids (… and which ones did not).
38.05 cts. Purple Tourmaline
Estimate: $8,000 – $10,000.
Sold: $35,000
This rare 38.05-carat purple cuprian tourmaline soared well past its estimate, and sold for $35,000. Actually, we were not surprised. If anything, we were surprised it did not go even higher.
Here we have a rare gem: a copper-bearing elbaite tourmaline with strong natural purple color, accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America report stating no indications of heating.
And that is the important point. It is certainly possible—though never guaranteed—that heating could shift the color of this gem towards the more familiar Windex electric blue-green associated with paraíba tourmaline. Commercially, that blue-green material, even heated, may command higher prices. But gemologically, finding a large copper-bearing tourmaline with natural unheated purple color is exceptionally uncommon.
That distinction was apparently not lost on the bidders.
Kashmir Sapphire, Diamond, Platinum Ring
Estimate: $300,000 – $600,000.
Sold: $906,250
The popularity of fine Kashmir sapphires has clearly not diminished. This 6.59-carat Kashmir sapphire climbed well beyond its estimate to realize $906,250.
Accompanied by both American Gemological Laboratories and Gemological Institute of America reports stating Kashmir origin with no indications of heating, the stone also received AGL’s coveted Classic™ Kashmir designation. GIA added a special comment recognizing the sapphire’s notable color.
And color is exactly what this level of Kashmir sapphire is all about. Its silky medium-dark blue carries almost universal appeal, while its rarity places it within reach of only a select few collectors.
Spinel, Diamond, Platinum Ring
Estimate: $6,000 – $8,000.
Sold For: $5,000
This purple-pink spinel ring may not have been one of the highest-priced lots of the sale, but for the gemologist, it was definitely one for our wish list.
The approximately 4.70-carat spinel displayed exceptional clarity, and as Heritage noted, with octahedral crystal inclusions just under the table—exactly the kind of inclusion we hope to find in a spinel.
Octahedral crystals are classic diagnostic spinel inclusions that are not only exciting to find just because they are cool, but also tell you the gem is of natural origin.
Kudos to Heritage that wisely highlighted them in the catalog description, since many collectors find inclusions like these fascinating rather than distracting.
And of course, this is one of the reasons we chose this ring to highlight in our pre-auction report.
Cartier Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond
Estimate: $600,000 – $800,000
Sold For: $625,000
Cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut (a Radiant Cut) fancy intense yellow diamond weighing 20.03 carats, accompanied by a GIA Report #5231576111, dated May 1, 2025, stating, Natural, Fancy Intense Yellow color, Even, VVS2 clarity.
The diamond is cut as a radiant cut, the design developed by Henry Grossbard.
Henry used to purchase large yellow emerald-cut diamonds and recut them into radiant cuts to improve the face-up color appearance.
This diamond is a classic example of why that cutting style became so important for fancy color diamonds.
At over 20 carats, with Fancy Intense Yellow saturation and VVS2 clarity, the stone carried more than enough presence on its own. And in a stone like this, that was definitely a good thing.
100.31-carat “Paraíba-Type” Tourmaline
Estimate: $50,000 – $70,000.
Sold For: $275,000
Size is clearly the story here. At over 100 carats, this Mozambique copper-bearing tourmaline enters a category few transparent colored gemstones of any species ever reach. The stone was accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America report (#5231837997) stating Mozambique origin.
What made this result especially interesting was the market question behind it: when does a gem this size in this species appear again?
Apparently, several bidders did not want to wait to find out.
Edwardian Peridot, Diamond, Platinum, White Gold Pendant-Brooch
Estimate: $6,000 – $8,000.
Sold For: $5,625
This Edwardian peridot brooch-pendant slipped slightly below estimate, perhaps reminding us that not every beautiful period piece turns into a bidding battle.
Still, the appeal here went well beyond the approximately 14.50-carat peridot center stone. The airy platinum-and-gold mounting, ribbon motifs, and lace-like Edwardian metalwork gave the piece exactly the kind of elegance collectors of the period continue to appreciate.
And then there were the diamonds. Heritage noted approximately 3.00 carats total weight of European and transitional-cut diamonds, giving the jewel a small lesson in diamond-cutting evolution tucked inside the design. For gemologists and antique jewelry enthusiasts alike, that combination may have been part of the charm.
Perhaps it was the peridot. Beautiful as it may be, peridot has long been a tougher sell in the marketplace—and just maybe one of the reasons why spinel was added as an additional August birthstone.
Colombian Emerald, Diamond, White Metal Ring
Estimate: $25,000 – $35,000.
Sold For: $65,625
This 17.48-carat Colombian emerald ring nearly doubled its high estimate, and the reason may be summed up in just a few words from the lab report: Colombia, Minor Enhancement.
Large emeralds are common enough to discuss. Large emeralds with attractive color, strong transparency, and only minor traditional enhancement become a very different conversation.
That combination clearly caught bidders’ attention here.
Aletto Bros. Amethyst, Prasiolite, Gold Bracelet
Estimate: $10,000 – $15,000.
Result: Passed – maybe later?
Well, not every unusual design finds the right bidder on auction day.
This distinctive bracelet by Aletto Brothers did not sell, although the matching earrings did, coming very close to the low estimate, and sold for $4,750.
That may simply reflect the challenge of bold jewelry design. This bracelet combines soft pastel gemstone colors with polished gold spikes, creating something that feels less like traditional gemstone jewelry and more like high-fashion couture with a touch of rock-and-roll edge and a bit of Italian attitude.
This was never a “quiet” jewel. And perhaps that is exactly why some collectors loved it, while others hesitated.
Barbara Westwood Convertible Jewelry Suites
Estimates: $7,000 – $9,000 / $6,000 – $8,000
Opals: Sold For $9,375
Amethyst/Ametrine: Sold For $5,375
Two one-of-a-kind convertible suites by Barbara Westwood brought very different auction results. The Andamooka boulder opal suite featured colorful sweeping ribbons of play of color, while the second suite centered on fantasy-cut ametrine and amethyst by the legendary lapidary artist Bernd Munsteiner.
Both suites reflected Westwood’s distinctive modular design style, allowing the pendants and earrings to be worn in multiple combinations.
Interestingly, the opal suite slightly outperformed the high estimate, while the Munsteiner suite surprisingly sold below even the low estimate. Maybe it was the ribbon patterns in the opals that carried more immediate visual impact. Maybe the amethyst/ametrine fantasies speak more directly to collectors who appreciate modern lapidary history.
Still, in both suites, the larger story may be Barbara Westwood herself. No matter what gem material she is setting, the workmanship and design remain very desirable.
Georland Coral, Black Onyx, Gold Jewelry Suite, French
Estimate: $9,000 – $12,000.
Sold For: $21,250
Apparently, we were not alone in admiring this French Georland suite. The combination of carved coral, black onyx, diamonds, and strong mid-century design carried the piece well beyond its estimate to $21,250.
This result was also a reminder that high jewelry does not always depend on ruby, emerald, sapphire, or diamond. Sometimes color, texture, contrast, and confident design are more than enough to capture the bidder’s attention.
Here, the personality came from the ornamental materials themselves. Together, the coral and black onyx simply worked beautifully.
Karin Tremonti Colored Diamond, Wood, Gold Bracelet
Estimate: $20,000 – $25,000.
Result: Passed – maybe later?
Wood, and a $20,000 to $25,000 estimate?
This sculptural bracelet attributed to Karin Tremonti may simply have been too modern, too artistic, or too design-driven for the auction room that day.
Combining dark hardwood, heavy 18k gold, and colored diamonds, the bracelet presents itself as wearable art. The elongated spindle-shaped wood segments remind us of mid-century modern furniture design more than jewelry.
And perhaps that was the challenge. This was never a conventional jewel built around a large center stone or a familiar signed-house precious metal creation. It asked bidders to appreciate alternative materials, balance, movement, and design personality first.
Still, as one of the more unique pieces in the sale, it remains memorable—and now becomes part of the post-auction offering.
Sabrina Aquamarine, Sapphire, Platinum Ring
Estimate: $6,000 – $8,000.
Result: Passed – maybe later?
This platinum-set aquamarine, and sapphire ring may simply have needed the right buyer.
Sabrina’s signature use of contrast, with the light blue aquamarine surrounded by rows of dark blue sapphires, gave the aquamarine greater visual presence.
The ring also carried a subtle bombe-style look, with the sapphire-set surround framing the 5.48-carat aquamarine. This ring is definitely not for petite hands.
Perhaps that quieter large look sophistication worked against it in a lively auction room. Still, the combination of strong gemstones, thoughtful color contrast, and distinctive design made this one of the more interesting passed lots in the sale.
Gucci Tsavorite Garnet, Diamond, White Gold Convertible Jewelry Suite
Estimate: $30,000 – $50,000.
Sold For: $31,250
Thirty thousand dollars for a tsavorite-centered Gucci suite? That says quite a bit about the growing appreciation for fine tsavorite.
There is absolutely nothing subtle about this Gucci suite—and that is exactly why it works.
Gucci’s lion-head motifs are seen here gripping tsavorites with their teeth—fitting, perhaps, given that one of the world’s most famous tsavorites is the Lion of Merelani, the 116.76-carat tsavorite now in the Smithsonian Institution National Gem Collection.
This convertible suite combined approximately 13.65 carats of tsavorite garnets with over 13 carats of diamonds in a necklace-and-bracelet design that could also be worn as one longer necklace.
The vivid green tsavorites stand out sharply against the white gold and diamonds, while the repeating lion-head motifs give the suite personality, movement, and unmistakable Gucci attitude.
Gucci did not hide the tsavorites here. The lions carried them front and center—exactly where stones of this quality belonged.
Van Cleef & Arpels Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Gold Ring
Estimate: $150,000 – $200,000.
Sold For: $156,250
Natural Fancy Intense Yellow diamonds continue to perform well at auction, and this 6.88-carat square emerald cut sold solidly within estimate at $156,250.
Remember, a square emerald cut holding its color like this, rather than relying on the face-up color-enhancing radiant cut, says a lot about the true body color of this diamond.
Combined with the Van Cleef & Arpels signature, this was exactly the kind of important natural fancy color diamond buyers continue to pursue.
Tap here to look over ALL of the items of this sale.
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