Heritage presents the May 4th Spring Signature Fine Jewelry Auction, with all the expected heavyweights—colored diamonds, Kashmir sapphires, Burmese rubies, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Tiffany & Co. But that only tells part of the story.
A closer look reveals a catalog with far more range and personality than the headline alone might suggest. Collectors will also find signed pieces from Oscar Heyman, Bvlgari, Boucheron, Chopard, Jean Schlumberger, Henry Dunay, and Aletto Brothers—names that speak to design history as much as gem value.
Then come the statement gems: a rare 38-carat purple cuprian tourmaline, an 87-carat tanzanite, and a remarkable 100-carat paraíba tourmaline—pieces that should catch the eye of anyone who still appreciates size, rarity, and a bit of wow factor.
In short, this is not merely another branded-jewelry auction. It is a sale with breadth: signed houses, collector gemstones, designer names, and enough unexpected material to reward anyone willing to browse beyond the first page.
We picked out a number of pieces below that we thought had some fun gemological interest. Enjoy!
38.05 cts. Purple Tourmaline
Estimate: $8,000 – $10,000.
Triangular modified brilliant-cut, cuprian tourmaline… not paraíba. (explanation below)
Accompanied by GIA report #1232732914, stating no Indications of Heating
Purple to violet tourmaline of this depth of color represents a rare segment of the species.
Cuprian Elbaite? Paraíba?
While copper-bearing tourmaline in this color range is often associated with deposits in Mozambique and Nigeria, GIA specifically notes: “Although this tourmaline contains copper and manganese, the properties are not consistent with what is called ‘paraíba tourmaline’ in the trade.” In the marketplace, and at Heritage, stones of this chemistry are often described as “Paraíba-Type.” Chemisty, yes. Purple Color?
There are a couple of points at play here. According to the LMHC (Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee) the accepted range of paraíba color spans only from Green to Blue. Purple is not in the range, hence GIA’s comment. More interesting, we have also been told that purple tourmaline is not only rare, it is unheated. If heated, as some paraíba tourmalines are heated to enhance their color, the rare purple color would most likely become a paraíba green or blue.
Kashmir Sapphire, Diamond, Platinum Ring
Estimate: $300,000 – $600,000.
Octagonal-shaped sapphire weighing 6.59 carats
Trapezoid-shaped diamonds weighing a total of approximately 1.00 carat
This sapphire is accompanied by an AGL Report # 1155057, dated March 12, 2026,
stating Natural Corundum, Sapphire, Classic™Kashmir Origin, with No Gemological Evidence of Heat
Also comes with a GIA Report # 2235825361, dated January 13, 2026,
stating Natural Corundum, Sapphire, Kashmir Origin, No Indications of Heating
This Kashmiri stone presents royal blue in a particularly pure expression, with AGL denoting this example as Classic™ Kashmir, and GIA including a specific comment acknowledging its notable color.
Spinel, Diamond, Platinum Ring
Estimate: $6,000 – $8,000.
Cushion-shaped purple-pink spinel weighing approximately 4.70 carats, surrounded by full-cut diamonds, weighing a total of approximately 2.50 carats; with baguette-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.50 carat.
This ring features a rectangular cushion shape spinel measuring 10.20 x 9.00 x 6.00 mm. Clarity is exceptional, with the most prominent inclusions consisting of octahedral shaped prismatic crystals located just below the table, accompanied by a second similar inclusion positioned further into the pavilion near the culet. That’s perfect! (Well, isn’t this exactly what you want to see in a spinel? Your answer is “Yes!” of course.)
Cartier Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond
Estimate: $600,000 – $800,000
Cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut (a Radiant Cut) fancy intense yellow diamond weighing 20.03 carats.
GIA Report #5231576111, dated May 1, 2025, stating, Natural, Fancy Intense Yellow color, Even,
VVS2 clarity.
Measuring 16.57 x 14.51 x 9.17 mm and weighing over 20 carats, this radiant cut diamond exhibits a nice even saturated Fancy Intense Yellow hue, further amplified by the cutting style.
As Heritage notes, “Radiant cuts are particularly well suited to stones of this scale. Developed to optimize light performance, the design merges the rectangular outline of an emerald cut with a brilliant style pavilion engineered for concentrated light return. The result is a tightly organized matrix of internal reflections that yields sharp, staccato scintillation rather than broad, mirror like flashes” (broad mirror like flashes of, say, an emerald cut). The result is that it helps make your diamond appear more yellow face up. And that’s a good thing.
100.31-carat “Paraíba-Type” Tourmaline
Estimate: $50,000 – $70,000.
Size is what this gem is all about. At 100.31 carats, this cuprian elbaite immediately enters a category few tourmalines ever reach. It is accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America report (#5231837997) stating origin as Mozambique, with no evidence of treatments.
Heritage describes it as an extraordinary Paraíba-type tourmaline, “a gemstone whose scale alone places it in rare company.” That is difficult to argue with. Stones over 100 carats in any fine transparent colored gem are uncommon enough. In copper-bearing tourmaline, they become rarer still.
As Heritage further notes, the designation “Paraíba type” is used for copper-bearing tourmaline of African origin—most notably Mozambique or Nigeria—whose trace element chemistry reflects the copper and manganese profile associated with the original Brazilian discoveries.
For many buyers, the decision here may come down to one simple factor: when does a gem this size in this species appear again?
Edwardian Peridot, Diamond, Platinum,
White Gold Pendant-Brooch
Estimate: $6,000 – $8,000.
Sometimes the side stones tell as much of the story as the center gem. Here, Heritage offers an “airy Edwardian brooch pendant” built around a large square emerald-cut peridot of approximately 14.50 carats, set in platinum and 14k white gold.
The brooch design reflects the lightness so often associated with the Edwardian period—lace-like metalwork, ribbon motifs, and a graceful scalloped surround. The peridot provides the burst of color, but collectors of antique and period jewelry may find themselves equally drawn to the diamonds.
Heritage notes approximately 3.00 carats total weight of “European and transitional-cut diamonds.” That is where things become especially interesting.
Old European cuts carry the charm of an earlier era—round brilliants with smaller tables, higher crowns, broader flashes of light from fat pavilion mains. Transitional cuts came later, bridging the move from Old European styles toward the modern round brilliant. Today, the Gemological Institute of America often classifies many of these in-between stones as “circular brilliants.” (https://roskingemnewsreport.com/what-is-a-circular-brilliant/)
So this piece offers more than Edwardian elegance. It also captures a moment in diamond-cutting history, when cutters were refining the path from candlelight sparkle to electric-light brilliance standards we know today.
For the right buyer, the appeal may be threefold: a substantial peridot, period craftsmanship, and a small lesson in diamond evolution tucked into one jewel.
Colombian Emerald, Diamond, White Metal Ring
Estimate: $25,000 – $35,000.
Sometimes, one or two lines in a lab report tells the full story. In this case, we have Provenance: Colombia, and Enhancement Degree: Minor, Type: Traditional.
This ring features a substantial 17.48-carat emerald-cut emerald, accompanied by an American Gemological Laboratories report (#1153499, dated January 30, 2026) identifying the stone as natural beryl emerald from Colombia with only minor enhancement. For a gem of this size, that combination alone is enough to command attention.
Large emeralds are common enough to discuss. Large emeralds with attractive color and only minor treatment become a different conversation entirely. Colombian material continues to hold a special place in the trade, particularly when paired with strong saturation and transparency that remains open despite visible inclusions.
Heritage notes the stone measures 17.64 x 14.99 x 9.56 mm, giving it impressive face-up presence, and describes a vivid green with a subtle bluish modifier—often associated with fine Colombian material. The surrounding ring is set with approximately 11.25 carats total weight of diamonds in baguette, marquise, and round shapes, creating a substantial diamond frame around the center.
Still, the larger story here is the emerald itself. That is why this ring belongs on the list.
Aletto Bros. Amethyst, Prasiolite, Gold Bracelet
Estimate: $10,000 – $15,000.
Not every memorable jewel needs rare gems. Sometimes design does the heavy lifting.
Here, Aletto Brothers—best known to many collectors for fine invisible-set jewelry—takes comparatively modest materials and turns them into something far more playful and distinctive. Faceted beads of amethyst and prasiolite are center-drilled, capped with polished 18k gold spikes, and suspended in dense articulated clusters along the bracelet.
[Prasiolite is the pale green quartz produced by heat-treating amethyst—sometimes sold as “green amethyst”—an affordable gem material that can look surprisingly elegant in the right design.]
The effect is almost like a charm bracelet reimagined through a modern Italian lens: dozens of gem-set forms gathered tightly together, moving freely at the wrist, each bead catching light while the gold spikes add attitude and edge.
What makes the piece interesting is the contrast. Amethyst and prasiolite are accessible gem materials, yet in the hands of a maker with imagination they become something fun, eye-catching, and unexpectedly luxurious. That is often the sign of real jewelry design—elevating the ordinary through craftsmanship and vision.
For buyers who appreciate named makers, movement, and a bit of personality, this bracelet may be one of the more enjoyable surprises in the sale.
Barbara Westwood Convertible Jewelry Suites
Estimates: $7,000 – $9,000 / $6,000 – $8,000
Sometimes jewelry is interesting because of the gems. Sometimes because of the maker. Here, it is both.
Barbara Westwood is represented by two one-of-a-kind convertible suites from the same Colorado collection—similar in overall design, yet telling two very different gem stories. Both include a pendant and matching earrings with modular construction, allowing the drops to be worn separately or combined with their diamond-set upper sections. That kind of versatility has long been part of Westwood’s appeal.
The first suite features boulder opals from Andamooka, South Australia—material prized for its natural host rock patterns. These pieces that Westwood found have the host rock playing background to vivid sweeping ribbons of color running through the stone.
The second suite may be the collector’s prize. It features fantasy-cut ametrine and amethyst attributed to Bernd Munsteiner, the lapidary artist who pioneered the modern fantasy cut. Munsteiner changed the way many people thought about gem cutting, treating stones not simply as faceted gems, but as sculptural objects shaped for light, depth, and internal reflection.
With Bernd Munsteiner and his son Tom now gone, pieces connected to the Munsteiner name carry added historical weight for collectors. These suites pair that lapidary legacy with Westwood’s wearable, adaptable design.
Two similar suites. Two very different personalities. One celebrates the natural drama of opal. The other honors one of the most influential gem cutters of the modern era.
Georland Coral, Black Onyx, Gold Jewelry Suite, French
Estimate: $9,000 – $12,000.
There is something gemologically appealing about the use of ornamental materials in fine jewelry, and this French suite is a good example of why.
Georland combines carved coral and black onyx with approximately 5.00 carats total weight of diamonds, set in 18k gold, to create a bracelet and matching brooch with strong visual contrast and unmistakable mid-century style.
Black onyx and vivid coral alternate across the gold mounting, creating a bold rhythm of color. It is a reminder that high jewelry does not always depend on emerald, ruby, sapphire, or diamond. Sometimes materials chosen for color and texture can be just as effective, given the right jewelry designer and gem cutter.
The diamonds here add sparkle and tradition, but the personality of the suite comes from the coral and onyx. Together, their contrast works beautifully.
Both pieces bear French hallmarks and the maker’s mark for Georland, adding another layer of appeal for collectors who appreciate signed European jewelry.
This lot belongs on the list for one simple reason: it proves that ornamental materials, in the right hands, can look every bit as luxurious as the traditional precious gems.
Karin Tremonti Colored Diamond, Wood, Gold Bracelet
Estimate: $20,000 – $25,000.
Wood, and a $20,000 to $25,000 estimate? That alone should be enough to stop you and take a closer look.
This bracelet, attributed to Karin Tremonti, combines dark hardwood, 18k gold, and approximately 2.00 carats of colored diamonds in a design that looks like wearable sculpture.
The elongated smooth, spindle-shaped pieces of wood are the backbone of the bracelet. The weight comes from the heavy gold matching spindle-shaped links between them.
The colored diamonds add sparkle and luxury, but the real story here is the wood. In lesser hands, wood can feel casual or decorative. Here, it is elevated into high jewelry.
There is also something refreshing about seeing a bracelet that uses wood with diamonds and gold. No center stone needed. No traditional formula required.
For me, this is one of the more interesting lots in the sale. It proves that fine jewelry can still offer up a bit of a surprise.
Sabrina Aquamarine, Sapphire, Platinum Ring
Estimate: $6,000 – $8,000.
Here we have a platinum ring featuring a light blue aquamarine, accented by rows of dark blue sapphires. The dark blue of the sapphires sets off the light blue of the aquamarine beautifully. That kind of contrast seems to appear often in Sabrina’s work, and it works especially well here.
The ring features a 5.48-carat cushion-shaped aquamarine, bezel set in platinum, with the shoulders and crown framed by channel-set sapphires in French and calibré cuts.
Aquamarine can sometimes look too light or pastel when left on its own. Here, the darker sapphire surround gives it plenty of contrast, giving the aqua center-stage presence. The result is what we see here: an aquamarine that stands out among a sea of dark blue sapphires.
Gucci Tsavorite Garnet, Diamond, White Gold Convertible Jewelry Suite
Estimate: $30,000 – $50,000
Gucci’s lion-head motifs are seen here gripping tsavorites with their teeth—fitting, perhaps, given that one of the world’s most famous tsavorites is the Lion of Merelani, the 116.76-carat precision-cut tsavorite now in the Smithsonian’s National Gem Collection.
This convertible suite by Gucci uses approximately 13.65 carats of tsavorite garnets and 13.05 carats of diamonds in a necklace-and-bracelet combination that can also be joined into one longer necklace.
The repeating lion-head motifs each hold an oval tsavorite, letting the vivid green stones become part of the design rather than simple accents. Against white gold and a substantial field of diamonds, the vivid green tsavorites clearly stand out.
Tsavorite is one of the more exciting green gems, from the vivid green seen here to mint green, a very popular color today. It’s nice to see how Gucci gives it scale, contrast, and a chance to show just how good tsavorite can look, even in the mouth of a lion.
Van Cleef & Arpels Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Gold Ring
Estimate: $150,000 – $200,000.
This is the last piece in our Heritage preview, but it sits near the top of the list in terms of importance.
Here, Van Cleef & Arpels presents a 6.88-carat Fancy Intense Yellow diamond, accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America report stating Natural, Fancy Intense Yellow, Even, VS1 clarity.
That combination does get our attention. At nearly seven carats, and Fancy Intense Yellow, VS1, this is not simply another branded jewel—it is a serious fancy colored diamond. And the Van Cleef & Arpels signature helps, too.
The center stone is described by GIA as a cut-cornered square step-cut, though most of us would simply call it a square emerald cut. The exact name is less important than what the cutting style suggests. Step cuts tend to show bodycolor honestly through broad open facets, and many fancy color diamonds are instead fashioned into radiant cuts or other brilliant styles to help intensify face-up color.
That makes this stone especially interesting. A yellow diamond cut in square emerald fashion still carrying a Fancy Intense grade suggests the diamond has enough natural body color to hold its color and project it face up without relying on a more color-concentrating cutting style.
There are many signed jewels in auction catalogs. Far fewer combine a globally recognized maker with a diamond that brings its own credentials. This one does both.
Tap here to look over ALL of the items listed for sale at
Heritage Auctions’ May 4th Spring Signature Fine Jewelry Auction.
