This top feature is a review of Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels Auction, on June 17th. Of course, there were diamonds—some of them truly remarkable—and we’ll showcase those in the next newsletter. But today, we’re focusing on the colored gemstone-set jewels that caught our attention.
So let’s dive in.
Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
In the Catalogue
As the catalogue notes, this auction featured “spectacular gemstones and designs from the world’s most renowned jewellery houses, including Bulgari, Cartier, Harry Winston, JAR, Van Cleef & Arpels, and many more.” Christie’s sale also included rare and beautiful Mughal jewels.
The Big, Bold, and Colorful
“Magnificent Jewels” certainly lived up to its name, showcasing some large and attention-getting colored gem-set jewels, period pieces, and signature designs.
Leading the non-diamond side of the sale was The Blue Belle, a very impressive – Big AND Bold 392-carat unheated Ceylon sapphire and diamond necklace (seen above) that achieved over $11 million.
That wasn’t the only sapphire to draw attention—there were three standout rings, each set with an exceptional blue sapphire: 1.) a 23.85-carat unheated Ceylon sapphire, mounted in a ring by JAR that sold for nearly $400,000; 2.) a 15.55-carat unheated Burmese sapphire, set into a ring by Cartier that brought in over $450,000; and 3.) an 8.45-carat unheated Kashmir sapphire, mounted in a ring by Van Cleef & Arpels that achieved more than $600,000!
India’s Gemstone History – Large Carved Colombian Emeralds
Historical significance met bold design in two big and bold Mughal (Mogul) masterpieces: a carved Colombian emerald necklace featuring five carved emeralds that ranged in weight from 106 to 470 carats! (That’s right – just five emeralds weighing almost 1,200 carats in one necklace!) That necklace sold for over $2.7 million. Then there was a three-strand Mughal necklace of large red spinel beads and good size natural pearls that reached more than $3.1 million!
It’s Invisible
Van Cleef & Arpels was certainly well-represented, with several of its signature ‘Mystery-Set’ pieces: a large ruby and diamond pin – the Flower brooch – measuring nearly 4 inches across, that sold for $1.5 million; two pair of sapphire and diamond earrings, that sold for $250,000 each, as well as a similar flower brooch, that sold for $350,000; and two pairs of earrings, these set with ruby and diamonds—one pair that sold for $400,000, while the other sold for $800,000!
Cartier pieces also stood out, including a fabulous suite of coral and diamond jewels, a vivid 8.03-carat unheated Burmese pink sapphire ring flanked by large oval diamonds, which sold for nearly $1 million, and an Art Deco jabot brooch—set with carved rubies, cabochon emeralds, diamonds, with a big and bold 14 mm natural freshwater button pearl—that brought in just under $250,000, highlighting continued demand for signed period pieces.
Now that you’ve read about these standout pieces, let’s take a closer look.
THE BLUE BELLE A SUPERB SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
An outstanding necklace, featuring a cushion modified mixed-cut unheated Sri Lankan sapphire weighing 392.52 carats, with numerous round and oval-shaped diamonds, all set in 18k white gold.
This sapphire was accompanied by three professional laboratory reports.
AGL, report no. 1147856, dated 2025: 392.52 carats, Classic Ceylon, no gemological evidence of heat, clarity enhancement: none
Gübelin, report no. 1490018, dated 2014: 392.52 carats, Ceylon, no indications of heating, Appendix letter
and SSEF, report no. 72359, also dated 2014: 392.52 carats, Ceylon, no indications of heating
Big, Bold, and definitely a statement piece!
Starting out our Big and Bold Colorful auction showcase, the Blue Belle stands out as one of the world’s most rare sapphires, both in size/weight – almost 400 carats! – and quality. According to Christie’s, “sapphires over 100 carats are extremely rare, and few are known by name. Even among royal collections, examples of this caliber are scarce. The Iranian Crown Jewels list only three sapphires of note, the largest weighing 191.58 carats. The Kremlin’s Diamond Treasury holds a 250-carat cornflower blue sapphire from the former Russian royal regalia. Another, linked to Catherine the Great, weighs 337 carats. Yet despite these remarkable stones, the Blue Belle remains nearly unmatched at 392.52 carats.”
Christie’s goes on to provide a “very short list of faceted sapphires weighing over 350 carats,” including 1.) the Blue Giant of the Orient (486.52 carats), 2.) the Queen of Romania’s Sapphire (478.68 carats), and 3.) the Logan Sapphire (423 carats), now at the Smithsonian.
The Blue Belle’s history begins in 1926, a Sri Lankan sapphire, “weighing approximately 400 carats after having been cut and polished,” showing what was described as “peacock blue color and excellent clarity.” In 1937, the Blue Belle sapphire was sold to the founder of British car manufacturer, Morris Motors Limited.
In 2014, the Blue Belle sapphire was sold at Christie’s in Geneva, for $17.3 million (and hence the two laboratory reports from 2014 mentioned above).
Estimate: USD 8,000,000 – USD 12,000,000
Price realized: USD $11,335,000
A MUGHAL CARVED EMERALD NECKLACE
This amazing necklace is strung with three carved hexagonal shaped and two carved pear-shaped emerald beads that weigh approximately 470 carats, 294 carats, 199 carats, 108 carats, and 106 carats – almost 1,200 carats total!!
The center emerald is inscribed “Ahmad Shah Durr-i Durran” (Pearl of Pearls)
Circa 1750, the gold and magenta cords were added later.
The SSEF report, dated 2022, no. 126237 states: Colombia, indications of clarity modification, minor (C) to moderate (A, B, D, E) amount of oil in fissures at the time of testing, with appendix letter regarding this Exceptional Emerald Strand
from the Christie’s Catalogue…
“Carved emeralds held great significance for Indian royalty, particularly during the Mughal dynasty and thereafter, due to deeply rooted cultural and aesthetic traditions.
“Fine large emeralds were unknown until their discovery in Colombia by the Spanish Conquistadors during the 16th and 17th centuries. They were extremely popular in all three of the great Islamic empires of the time: Ottoman Turks, the Safavid Persians and Mughal Indians; so much so that none appear to have been retained at the time in Europe.
“Emeralds were brought to India by Spanish and Portegese merchants as trade goods during the Mughal dynasty. They were highly prized for many reasons, specifically their rich green color – a color in Islam that represents paradise, life and renewal.
“Used as beads or as part of artifacts, these stones were often large in size but, by nature, internally flawed, making them unsuitable for traditional faceting. Rather than discarding imperfect areas, artisans skillfully carved intricate designs into the stones, transforming each emerald into a unique artistic creation that maximized its visual and symbolic value.
“The present series of emeralds (Lot 41) centers upon an impressively sized 470 carat emerald with a carving of floral motif. The design emulates the popular architectural styles of 17th century Mughal India, masterfully carved to best bring out the full color and beauty of the stone. Its impressive size and precise craftsmanship, along with it’s ideal rich Colombian color, would have made it an ideal prize for Nader Shah following his 1739 capture of Delhi and subsequent control over the Mughal royal treasury.”
Estimate: USD 2,000,000 – USD 3,000,000
Price realized: USD $6,221,000
A MUGHAL THREE STRAND SPINEL AND NATURAL PEARL NECKLACE
Estimate: USD 1,000,000 – USD 2,000,000
Price realized: USD $3,014,500
Here we have a triple strand necklace with forty-five large polished red spinel beads, and forty-eight near round and off-round natural pearls ranging in size from approximately 10 to 13 mm, circa 1750.
The necklace comes with an SSEF report from 2022, report no. 126236, stating that the spinels are from Tajikistan, with no indications of heating, and none to moderate amounts of oil in the fissures.
Eight of the spinels have been inscribed (example: see image to the right):
Upper Strand
1. The Sultan Muhammad Tuqhluq
2. Jahangir Shah (son) of Akbar Shah, 1022
Second inscription: Second Lord of the Auspicious Conjunction, 1045 / 8
Middle Strand
3. Jahangir Shah (son) of Akbar Shah, 1017
4. Unclear inscription
5. Jahangir Shah (son) of Akbar Shah
6. The Sultan Mahmud Shah, 951(*)
Lower Strand:
7. Babur Shah Badshah, 891
Second inscription written in Devanagari
8. Jahangir Shah (son) of Akbar Shah, 1017(*)
Second inscription: Second Lord of the Auspicious Conjunction
Inscriptions Signify Respect – for the Gem
One interesting note in the Christie’s catalogue states, “Inscribing a gemstone with an emperor’s name with lineage and dates was a mark of appreciation for the exceptional beauty of the stone, and bestowed on it respect and imperial dignity. In some examples where more than one inscription is noted, it is suggested that the stone was passed down through generations.”
Tajikistan
More interesting history of spinels is noted here: “One famous example of an historical spinel is the Carew Spinel, which is housed in the Victoria and Albert Museum. Prized for its color and history, the Carew Spinel is inscribed with the names of Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Alamgir, also known as the former Mughal Prince Aurangezb. These spinels originated from the Badakhshan mine, in the ‘Pamir’ region located between Afghanistan and Tajikistan. This province gave its derived name to spinels, described as ‘Balas Rubies’ for decades. Later in the 19th century it would be determined that spinels and rubies are chemically two different gems, but for hundreds of years, any red stone was described as a ruby. Another famous historical inscribed spinel is the ‘Timur Ruby’ which is indeed a spinel. Residing in England like the Carew Spinel, the Timur Ruby is part of the illustrious Royal Collection of HM Queen Elizabeth II of England.”
SUZANNE BELPERRON STAR SAPPHIRE AND SAPPHIRE ‘PLASTRON’ NECKLACE
This sapphire bib necklace is set with oval and round star sapphires and other sapphire cabochons, bezel set in 18k white gold (French import mark), circa 1935.
[Plastron: an ornamental front of a woman’s bodice or shirt consisting of colorful material with lace or embroidery, fashionable in the late 19th century.]
Estimate: USD 250,000 – USD 350,000
Price realized: USD $327,600
In 1921, Suzanne Belperron (née Vuillerme) joined the prestigious jewelry house Boivin as a modelist-designer. During her decade-long tenure working under Jeanne Boivin, the widow of René Boivin, she produced some of the firm’s most remarkable jewels. Rejecting the rigid geometry of the dominant Art Deco style, Belperron’s designs embraced flowing, organic forms and bold, oversized stones, creating a dramatic, modern aesthetic.
In 1932, Belperron left Boivin to make a name for herself. And that she did.
Christie’s offers a nice historical perspective, which you can find in the auction catalogue here.
CONCH PEARL AND DIAMOND BEAD LONGCHAIN NECKLACE
Estimate: USD 80,000 – USD 120,000
Price realized: USD $151,200
Here we have a necklace comprised of ninety-five (95) near-round and oval conch pearls ranging from approximately 10.5 mm to 3.5 mm, interspaced with varying sized faceted diamond beads.
The necklace is accompanied by a GIA, report from 2025, no. 6237580276, stating natural saltwater pearls, Aliger gigas (conch), with no indications of treatment.
The necklace measures 123.1 cm (48 ½ in), a rope necklace length.
Natural Conch Pearls – Non-nacreous
“A true organic beauty, conch pearls are the product of an entirely natural formation with no human intervention. The pearls are harvested from the Aliger gigas, or Queen conch, a mollusk found in the warm waters spanning from Bermuda to the Yucatán Peninsula. An estimated one in 10,000 Queen conch must be harvested before a single pearl is found, and only one in ten is said to be gem-quality, making the conch pearl a coveted yet difficult to obtain gem.”
“While still referred to as a pearl, the conch pearl differs from oyster pearls with its absence of nacre, the composite material that provides oyster pearls with their iridescent luster. Instead, the finest conch pearls display a porcelaneous surface with a unique ‘flame’ characteristic that leaves the pearl with a mesmerizing shimmer.”
CARTIER SUITE OF CORAL AND DIAMOND JEWELRY
Estimate: USD 80,000 – USD 120,000
Price realized: USD 163,800
Here we have a suite of coral jewelry, by Cartier, using various shapes of fine quality and color coral plaques, accented by round diamonds, and all set with 18k yellow gold (bracelet and ring each with French mark), circa 1970.
We love how Cartier’s use of such fine quality coral embraces the entire bangle, the top and shoulders of the ring. It is especially nice when we can see the coral growth markings making it relatively easy to identify the material.
Jewelry from the 1970s utilized a number of ornamental gem materials such as coral, lapis, turquoise, jaspers, feldspars, and more. Yellow gold was the metal of choice, as seen here.
Christie’s did note that “this lot is made from or contains material that may be either protected or regulated.” The use of jewelry coral today is restricted.
CARTIER ART DECO RUBY, EMERALD, DIAMOND AND NATURAL PEARL JABOT-BROOCH
Estimate: USD 50,000 – USD 70,000
Price realized: USD $226,800
This beautiful Art Deco brooch is set with round cabochon-shaped and carved rubies, round cabochon-shaped emeralds, old, single and baguette-cut diamonds, and a Big and Bold 14 mm buttoMystery Set Jewelsn-shaped natural pearl, circa 1930, in platinum.
The pearl was identified by GIA on report no. 6213087110, as freshwater natural pearl, with no indications of treatment.
Mystery Set Jewels
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND ‘MYSTERY-SET’ EARRINGS
Estimate: USD 60,000 – USD 80,000
Price realized: USD $252,000
These invisible set sapphire and diamond earrings are designed as leaves, using calibré cut sapphires, marquise-shaped and tapered baguette-cut diamonds, set in platinum and 18k white gold (French marks), circa 1965.
They are also made with a retractable mechanism and may be worn as clips.
As written in the Christie’s catalogue, VC&A’s Mystery Set Brooch has been “thoughtfully designed, the Mystery-set setting uses a series of lattices, often in gold or platinum, rather than using traditional prongs or a claw-style setting. These lattices form a net, visible only from the reverse of the jewel, which carefully holds each gemstone in place. Richly saturated rubies, sapphires and delicate emeralds are cut with the utmost precision – each stone faceted with a special groove below the girdle, allowing them to slide gently along the lattice and sit snugly to one another. Taking on average over 1,200 hours to complete a singular ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, the resulting creation is combination of color, beauty and prowess.” We would not disagree.
A PAIR OF EXCEPTIONAL VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMOND ‘MYSTERY-SET’ EARRINGS
Estimate: USD 200,000 – USD 300,000
Price realized: USD $882,000
This incredible pair of ruby earrings are designed as flower heads, using calibré-cut rubies, and round diamonds, set in 18k yellow gold and platinum (French marks).
AN EXTRAORDINARY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMOND ‘MYSTERY-SET’ BROOCH
To match the earrings above, this flower brooch is set with calibré-cut rubies, round and baguette-cut diamonds, in 18k yellow gold (French mark) and platinum, and comes with a detachable stem.
One might think that there is so much more to write about such a jewel. Sometimes, “WOW!” is all you need.
Estimate: USD 400,000 – USD 600,000
Price realized: USD $1,562,500
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMOND ‘CAMELLIA’ BROOCH
Estimate: USD 100,000 – USD 150,000
Price realized: USD $302,400
No mystery here… The Camellia Brooch is traditionally set with oval-shaped rubies, and round diamonds, set in platinum. This is all about the art of design.
Christie’s also included a collecting guide to the jewellery of Van Cleef & Arpels here!
Three Unheated Sapphires – Sri Lankan, Burmese, and Kashmir
JAR SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND ‘BRAID’ RING
Estimate: USD 60,000 – USD 80,000
Price realized: USD $390,600
The first of three rings, this one is featuring an oval modified mixed-cut unheated Sri Lankan sapphire weighing 23.92 carats, accented by round diamonds, set in platinum, created by JAR, Joel Arthur Rosenthal.
Accompanied by an AGL report, dated 2025, report no. 1147815: 23.92 carats, Ceylon, no gemological evidence of heat, clarity enhancement: none
CARTIER SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: USD 100,000 – USD 150,000
Price realized: USD $466,200
Here we have a platinum and diamond ring, featuring a 15.59-carat square emerald cut unheated Burmese sapphire, accompanied by an AGL report, dated 2025, report no. 1147269: 15.59 carats, Burma, no gemological evidence of heat.
A RARE VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: USD 400,000 – USD 600,000
Price realized: USD $630,000
And the last of our three sapphire rings features a square cushion mixed-cut unheated Kashmir sapphire of 8.45 carats, accented by round and pear-shaped diamonds, set in 18k yellow gold.
AGL, 2025, report no. 1147892: Kashmir, no gemological evidence of heat, clarity enhancement: none
SSEF, 2025, report no. 146230: 8.455 carats, Kashmir, no indications of heating
Our Final Review Piece – A Million Dollar Natural Pink Sapphire
AN EXCEPTIONAL CARTIER COLORED SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING
Estimate: USD 150,000 – USD 200,000
Price realized: USD $995,400
Here we have a cushion mixed-cut unheated Burmese pink sapphire of 8.06 carats, surrounded by oval-shaped diamonds, set in platinum and yellow gold.
SSEF, 2025, report no. 146231: 8.06 carats, Burma, no indications of heating
AGL, 2025, report no. 1147268: 8.06 carats, Burma, no gemological evidence of heat, clarity enhancement: none
And THAT is Big and Bold!
