Important Watches I & II
Important Watches I & II
Following a triumphant auction last November—realizing over CHF 20 million and setting several world records—Sotheby’s returned to Geneva with two exceptional sales: Important Watches I and Important Watches II.
Important Watches included curated vintage and modern timepieces, including Patek Philippe, Rolex, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin, as well as independent watchmakers.
Highlights include a whimsical and rare 1949 Pendulette Mystérieuse—a unique 8-day mystery clock shaped like a strawberry, crafted in yellow gold, platinum, silver, agate, diamond, and topaz, with a heart-shaped mount.
We also spotlight the striking Cartier Libre Noeud, with its asymmetrical knot-shaped case, and a showstopping Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon featuring a rotating dial with a miniature Earth and a moon crafted from a faceted diamond bead.
Cartier, Paris
Pendulette Mystérieuse | A unique and highly unusual 18 karat yellow gold, platinum, silver, agate, diamond and topaz-set 8-day mystery clock in the form of a strawberry with heart-shaped mount | Made in 1949
Estimate: 500,000 – 1,000,000 CHF
But this mysterious clock did not sell…
Unraveling the Mystery
Concealed within agate base is a gilt-brass 8-day rectangular clock movement, plain stepped plates, gilded platform with lever escapement, bi-metallic compensation balance, index regulator, large mainspring barrel, plain cylindrical pillars, and connected to the mechanism for rotating chapter ring via a pulley system through one side of the gold support. There is a vertical gear concealed within the strawberry and driven by a chain and pulley system which turns a horizontal bevel gear on axle to drive the chapter ring
Making it even more mysterious, the strawberry-form timepiece is suspended from an 18 karat yellow gold heart-shaped support.
As written in the auction catalogue, “Extraordinarily complex to produce, these extravagant timepieces could take up to a year to complete and required the expertise of craftsmen across multiple disciplines—from enamellers, lapidaries, and gem-setters to engravers, polishers, and clockmakers.1 Mystery Clocks continued to be made after the Second World War, and in this 1949 example, the concept is further developed and refined.”
Cartier, Paris
A magnificent gold, silver, silver-gilt, nephrite, mother-of-pearl, coral, enamel and diamond-set 8-day Chinoiserie timepiece | Nos. 02327, 01906, 772 | Circa 1980
A Real Gem of a Clock
The dial of tracery form comprises 12 lobed mother-of-pearl panels, each panel with geometric accents representing the hours. The accents are set with diamonds at the cardinal positions, and coral inlays at the intervening hours. Set against a blackened disc, the ornate pierced hands with diamond-set tips and coral and diamond-set central boss make up the final form.
The silver and gold dish-shaped case is edged by 12 nephrite panels of sculpted arched form each set with mother-of-pearl Roman numerals. All of this is secured with pins and heightened by cabochon set turquoises.
The XII o’clock numeral is edged with red to enhance the position, while each nephrite panel is separated by a silver-gilt ribbon of navy blue enamel set with a single diamond.
This night stand clock comes accompanied by a GGTL certificate identifying the coral species.
Estimate: 200,000 – 400,000 CHF
This too did not sell …
Cartier, Paris
An exceptional 18 karat yellow gold, onyx, lapis lazuli and agate minute repeating 8-day Cube Clock made by the Couët workshop | Nos. 2553, 4528, 1656 | Circa 1925
The lapis lazuli dial is signed Cartier.
Polished onyx panels, bound by gold pillars and frame, are mounted upon a stepped agate base, each side with central trio of Art Deco faceted ridges with stepped profiles and set to their fronts with cabochons of sugarloaf-cut lapis lazuli.
Estimate: 60,000 – 80,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 76,200 CHF
Cartier
Libre Noeud, Reference 3080 | A white gold and diamond-set wristwatch | Circa 2012
Estimate: 17,000 – 35,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 20,320 CHF
As listed in the catalogue
18k white gold and diamond-set, case back secured by 4 screws
Cartier satin strap and 18k white gold and diamond-set buckle
The silvered brushed dial set with Roman numerals to the asymmetrical case of knot design, with brilliant-cut diamond-set bezel and pavé-set diamond ends, extending the diamond-set Cartier buckle, to the black satin and leather strap, mounted in 18K white gold, circa 2008, quartz movement, dial and buckle signed CARTIER SWISS MADE, case no. 22065NX, ref. 3080 with French hallmarks, case and strap with maker’s mark, in original fitted case, case.
This watch doesn’t stretch the envelope gemologically, but design wise, what’s “knot” to like?
Rolex, Diamond & Emerald Watch
Daytona ‘Zenith’, Reference 16528 | A yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet and diamond and emerald-set dial | Circa 1994
The ‘Zenith Daytona’ is today receiving a well-deserved recognition from the collectors community.
Introduced as the first self-winding Daytona in 1988, it marked the most significant evolution in the 60 years-history of the revered chronograph. Thirty five years later, its influence is still very present in the current model.
The watch was produced in stainless steel, yellow gold and two-tone. In 1992, a gold version on leather strap was introduced (ref. 16518) followed by the white gold model (ref. 16519) in 1997.
“The current Reference 16528 example is an extremely rare piece, fitted with a most impressive diamond and emerald-set dial. This feature adds a stunning and luxurious aspect to the overall sport and masculine design. The combination of the yellow gold, white diamonds and green emeralds creates an extremely attractive visual effect, making this present lot not only a very rare and highly collectible timepiece, but also a stunning wrist companion.” We have been assured that the dial is comprised of emeralds at the numerals, with a face paved with round brilliant cut diamonds.
Estimate: 50,000 – 100,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 114,300 CHF
… if you are looking for STYLE, or Attitude (or both…)
Cartier Brooch Watch with Pearls, Black Onyx, and Diamonds
From the auction catalogue…
A gold, platinum, onyx, pearl and diamond-set art deco lady’s brooch watch | Circa 1929
A masterwork of elegance and ingenuity, this exquisite brooch watch with pearl tassels from the Maison Cartier stands as a rare testament to the golden age of Art Deco. Created circa 1929, the piece exemplifies Cartier’s revolutionary spirit during a period when the house redefined modern jewellery by uniting abstract geometry, daring colour combinations, and exceptional craftsmanship.
Crafted in gold and platinum and adorned with onyx, pearls and diamonds, this brooch watch encapsulates the quintessence of the Cartier art de vivre, where poetry meets practicality and artistry transforms the everyday into extraordinary. The integration of timekeeping within a jewel, subtly and elegantly concealed is a true celebration of both form and function, embodying the Maison’s enduring pursuit of aesthetic and technical innovation.
Both a jewel and a timepiece, it is a rare opportunity to acquire a piece of horological history that embodies the Maison’s avant-garde vision and impeccable savoir-faire.
Estimate: 40,000 – 80,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 88,900 CHF
This Moon is made of DIAMOND!
Astronomia Tourbillon ‘N°1’
Reference AT100.95.KN.SD.B | A limited edition ceramic, pink gold and aventurine skeletonized tourbillon wristwatch with rotation dial and diamond globe | Circa 2020
Estimate: 100,000 – 150,000 CHF
Lot Sold: 101,600 CHF
Jacob Arabo is known for his truly audacious and avant-garde designs, often incorporating skeletonisation and cased predominantly in sapphire crystal for unobstructed viewing, and exotic themes such as astronomy. The present watch ticks all of these boxes, and truly embodies the best of Jacob & Co.
How Does This Work?
The most visually striking feature of the Astronomia is its structure. Housed within a black ceramic and sapphire crystal case is the caliber JCAM10, which by their own admission is one of the brand’s most advanced and complex movements. A triple axis flying tourbillon, rotating diamond moon, rotating Earth globe, and rotating dial where the time can be read, are mounted on separate arms and attached to the baseplate via a central pinion which itself rotates, completing a full rotation every 20 minutes. An astonishing 365 components are required to accomplish this masterclass in movement architecture and engineering, and despite the level of complication, the watch still manages to hold 60 hours of power.
The timekeeping dial is a wonder in itself. Due to the entire platform’s rotation, a regular dial’s orientation would be ever changing, making the reading of time extremely inconvenient. Thus, the Astronomia features a patented differential system which spins in the opposite direction of the platform but at the same speed. As a result, the dial remains constantly upright and perfectly legible.
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