Auctions offer a fantastic opportunity to study and appreciate jewelry from the past, whether it’s a specific era from the late 1800s or early 1900s, a remarkable center stone, or exquisite craftsmanship. Upcoming sales at Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Heritage, Phillips, and others showcase a great assortment of jewels to get a closer look. So let’s take a look.
Heritage Auctions
from the May 5 Spring Fine Jewelry Signature®
Schlumberger Colombian Emerald, Diamond, Platinum, Gold Ring
Emerald-cut natural emerald weighing 8.42 carats; marquise-shaped diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.40 carat; full-cut diamonds
weighing a total of approximately 0.20 carat.
Metal: 18k gold, platinum
“This buzz-worthy ring showcases an 8.42-carat Colombian emerald of exceptional depth and vibrancy. Accompanied by an AGL Prestige Gemstone Report, the emerald is certified as Colombian in origin with only minor traditional clarity enhancement. The setting is an exquisite blend of highly polished 18k gold and platinum, with two delicate bees composed of full-cut and marquise-shaped diamonds gracefully perched at each shoulder. An integrated, flexible gold band curves from the shank to beneath the gallery, ensuring a tailored fit while preserving the ring’s ability for traditional sizing; however, hairline cracks are forming at the point where it meets the shank.
An inscription, “Schlumberger,” is located inside the shank. The ring’s sculptural elements evoke a sense of movement and enchantment, seamlessly integrating nature-inspired artistry with bold gemstone brilliance.
AGL Report # 1144165, dated August 26, 2024, stating Natural Beryl, Emerald, Colombia Origin, Minor Traditional Clarity Enhancement
Estimate: $65,000 – $85,000.
14-carat Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond, Diamond, Gold Ring
Pear-shaped diamond weighing 14.14 carats; trillion-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 2.10 carats
Metal: 18k gold
GIA report # 16922543, dated September 19, 2017, stating Natural, Fancy Intense Yellow, Even, VS1 clarity
Estimate: $300,000 – $400,000.
Charlton Sri Lankan Sapphire, Diamond, Platinum Ring
Stones: Cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 13.22 carats; baguette-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 0.30 carat
Metal: Platinum
Marked: Charlton [early 1900s New York jeweler]
“Simply gorgeous. Words cannot fully capture the caliber of this sapphire—an absolute must-see at one of our cross-country previews to truly appreciate the beauty of this natural, unheated, and untreated gem!”
AGL Report # 1145773, dated February 19, 2025, stating Natural Corundum. Sapphire, Sri Lanka Origin,
No Gemological Evidence of Heat
Estimate: $30,000 – $50,000.
Buccellati Sapphire, Gold Necklace
30 Sapphire cabochons
Metal: 18k white and yellow gold
The cabochons measure approximately 5.75 x 4.50 x 3.00 mm. Total estimated weight of the cabochons in this necklace is approximately 25.00 carats.
Marked 18k Italy, Gianmaria Buccellati and accompanied by signed Gianmaria Bucellati necklace box/folio for safekeeping.
Estimate: $16,000 – $20,000.
“Buccellati: The Buccellati family has been perfecting the art of goldsmithing since the 1750s. Mario Buccellati (1891-1965) received his goldsmith training while an apprentice at the firm Beltrami e Besnati near La Scala, in Milan. By 1919, he took control of the business, gave it his name and focused on the art of engraving, mainly gold. His reputation for meticulous texturing of metals through detailed hand engraving turned metal into silk, brocade, tulle or the finest honeycomb lace. Buccellati’s Renaissance-inspired designs and distinctive style attracted an elite clientele. Over the years, Buccellati made jewelry for the royal families of Italy, Spain and Egypt, as well as Pope Pius XI and Pope Pius XII, among others. The family firm continues today with a passion for entirely hand-made one-of-a-kind jewels, featuring texture-engraved gold under the leadership of Gianmaria and Andrea Buccellati. Their unique artistry can be enjoyed in exclusive boutiques around the world.”
Sotheby’s Fine Jewelry from Paris
Auction: 26 March 2025 • Paris
Bague diamant Fancy Vivid* Yellow | Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond ring
Claw-set with an oval Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond weighing 6.60 carats, size 52, French assay mark for 18 karat gold. Accompanied by GIA report no. 5221674218, dated 17 October 2022, stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Color, IF Clarity.
*As you know, Vivid is the highest saturated color grade. Even so, Vivid is still a range of color. – gr
Estimate: 280,000 – 400,000 EUR
Van Cleef & Arpels
Collier diamants | Diamond necklace
“Composed of three rows of briolette-cut faceted diamond beads, the clasp enhanced with brilliant cut diamonds, length approximately 450mm, signed, numbered, French assay marks for 18 karat gold.“
Comes with case stamped Van Cleef and Arpels.
Estimate: 180,000 – 400,000 EUR
Collier rubis, “Single Red” | Ruby necklace, ‘Single Red’
Claw-set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 3.124 carats, length approximately 530mm, French import assay mark for 18 karat
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 143951, dated 24 January 2025, stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin with no indication of thermal enhancement. Together with an appendix letter attesting to its rare and exceptional quality, and its attractive colour referred to as ‘pigeon blood red’.
Estimate: 160,000 – 300,000 EUR
Van Cleef & Arpels
Broche rubis, saphir, or et diamants, “Danseuse” | Ruby, sapphire, gold and diamond brooch, ‘Danseuse’
Depicting a ballerina set with circular-cut and oval rubies, oval sapphires, single- and brilliant-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 65 x 45 mm, signed, numbered, French assay marks for platinum and 18 karat gold; case stamped Van Cleef & Arpels; late 1940s.
“Van Cleef & Arpels has a rich history with dance, starting in the 1920s when co-founder Louis Arpels frequented the Opéra Garnier. In 1941, the brand began creating iconic ballerina clips, featuring dancers in tutus set with diamonds and precious stones. The pieces, often adorned with vibrant gems like turquoise, rubies, and emeralds, captured dancers mid-pose, exuding movement and life. Some clips used textured gold instead of gems, catering to those who favored precious metals. The first brooches were a collaboration between Maurice Duvalet and John Rubel in the early 1940s. After ceasing production in the 1960s, Van Cleef & Arpels revived the ballerina designs in the 2000s. The 2007 Ballet Précieux collection and 2018’s Twelve Dancing Princesses collection further celebrated this iconic motif.”
“Ladislas Bergolz was a skilled jeweller who, alongside his brothers, founded a workshop in London before relocating to Paris. His maker’s mark was officially registered on 12 May 1920. Known for collaborating with prestigious clients, including the renowned jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels, his work displayed exceptional craftsmanship.”
Estimate: 30,000 – 40,000 EUR
Mauboussin
Broche cristal de roche, émail et diamants | Rock crystal, enamel and diamond brooch
Composed of frosted rock crystal, decorated on each side by foliate motifs applied with black enamel and set with circular- and single-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 60 x 20mm, numbered, exempted from French assay marking for 18 karat gold and platinum; 1925.
Accompanied by Mauboussin authenticity certificate dated 3 January 2018.
Estimate: 12,000 – 24,000 EUR
Christie’s Online: Hong Kong
– including a 56-carat Wallace Chan Carved Blue Topaz
NO RESERVE – WALLACE CHAN UNMOUNTED BLUE TOPAZ
Pear-shaped Wallace-Cut blue topaz of 56.9 carats, signed Wallace Chan
Estimate: HKD 50,000 – HKD 80,000
OPAL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Free form fire opals, round green garnet and coloured sapphire, round and pear shape rose-cut diamonds
Estimate: HKD 60,000 – HKD 80,000
NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Seven hundred twenty-two graduated round natural pearls measuring from 7.2 to 2.9 mm, round diamonds
SSEF, 2013, report no. 69893: 722 natural saltwater pearls
Estimate: HKD 120,000 – HKD 180,000
Important Watches II: Sotheby’s Online from Hong Kong
19 March 2025
Hermès
A white gold, diamond and sapphire-set wristwatch with mother-of-pearl date and moon phases, Circa 2024
| 愛馬仕 | Arceau 型號AR7.D91 | 白金鑲鑽石及藍寶石腕錶，備珠母貝日期及月相顯示，約2024年製
Dial: pavé-set diamond
Calibre: cal. H1837 automatic, 28 jewels
Case: 18k white gold, sapphire crystal display back secured by 5 screws
Case number: 3’703’329
Closure: blue Hermès alligator strap and 18k white gold buckle
Size: 38 mm diameter
Accessories: Hermès Certificate of Origin and International Warranty, setting pin, instruction manual and presentation box
Estimate: 200,000 – 300,000 HKD
SOLD!
Saffron Art Auction – A Few Extraordinary Pieces
FINE JEWELS AND SILVER / 1-2 MAY 2024
AN IMPORTANT ART DECO ONYX, CRYSTAL AND DIAMOND BROOCH BY GEORGES FOUQUET
Centring a beautiful old European-cut diamond set on a carved onyx plaque embedded in rock crystal, flanked by old-cut diamonds along the edges, stamped ‘G. FOUQUET , 27312’.
Onyx: 3.05 carats
Crystal: 40.10 carats
Diamond (old European cut): 0.96 carats
Diamond: 2.90 carats
Dimensions: 3.2 x 4.5 cm
Estimate: Rs 25,00,000 – 35,00,000 / $30,125 – 42,170
Winning Bid: Rs 29,26,500 / $35,259
PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND COLLAR PINS
Each plaque centering a marquise-shaped diamond with a surround of baguette and full-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum.
Circa 1920s
Diamonds: 5.67 carats
Gross weight: 16.94 grams
Dimensions: 2.8 x 1.7 cm
Estimate: Rs 14,00,000 – 18,00,000 / $16,870 – 21,690
Winning Bid: Rs 19,20,000 / $23,133
FINE JEWELS AND SILVER / 15-16 OCT 2024
AN IMPORTANT PAIR OF SPINEL, NATURAL PEARL, EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS BY THE GEM PALACE
Each centering on a circular pearl, elegantly set with diamonds on the prongs, suspending a beautiful rectangular emerald, further suspending stunning well-matched tumbled spinels. Mounted in platinum.
Estimate: Rs 1,30,00,000 – 1,80,00,000 / $156,630 – 216,870
Winning Bid: Rs 1,75,60,000 / $211,566
SaffronArt: Indian art Auction House
