Christie’s Geneva: Magnificent Jewels
As with many of the end of the year auctions, there are too numerous wonderful pieces to explore in the Report. This particular auction is no different.
Leading Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction in Geneva on November 12, is the Aga Khan Emerald Brooch.
THE AGA KHAN EMERALD
SENSATIONAL CARTIER EMERALD AND DIAMOND BROOCH
Estimate: CHF 5,200,000 – CHF 7,000,000
The square-shaped Colombian emerald of 37.00 carats, measuring 4.9 cm high, is surrounded by marquise-shaped diamonds, set in platinum and 18k yellow gold (with French marks), may be worn as a pendant or brooch. Created in 1960, unsigned, numbered (indistinct).
Gemological Reports
SSEF, 2024, report no. 136623, stating that the famous emerald weighs 37.003 carats, is from Colombia, with no indications of clarity modification in fissures. It is accompanied by an Appendix Letter attesting to the exceptional quality and rarity of this emerald.
Gübelin, 2023, report no. 23112014, stating that the famous emerald weighs 37.00 carats, is from Colombia, with no indications of clarity enhancement. It too comes with an Information Sheet on Untreated Emeralds, and with an Appendix and Gemmological Profile.
Provenance
This brooch was commissioned by Prince Aga Khan to Cartier Paris in 1960. It was gifted to his wife, Nina Dyer.
The brooch was offered for sale at Christie’s inaugural Magnificent Jewels auction on 1 May 1969 in Geneva, Switzerland, at the Hotel Richemond as part of the collection of Nina Dyer.
A few years later, the brooch passed to famous New York Jewelry House, Harry Winston.
For more on this amazing emerald, tap here!
The Aga Khan Emerald: ‘We might see
an emerald of this quality come up for sale once every five or six years.
It’s one of the rarest treasures on Earth’
In 1969, the Cartier-designed brooch sold to Van Cleef & Arpels and was later acquired by Harry Winston, who turned it into a pendant. “The fact that it has passed through the hands of three of the greatest jewellers in the world attests to its exceptional quality.”
More from the upcoming sale:
THE MAHARAJA NECKLACE
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
TRANSFORMABLE DIAMOND NECKLACE AND EARRINGS
Estimate: CHF 3,500,000 – CHF 5,000,000
The necklace features three FLAWLESS pear shape brilliant-cut diamonds of 25.50, 11.24 and 11.13 carats, is accompanied by numerous diamonds of various shapes and weights, all set in 18k white gold (with French marks), and is transformable in 7 different necklaces, 3 bracelets, 1 brooch, and 4 pairs of earrings. It is signed Van Cleef & Arpels, and VCA, the maker’s mark, is numbered, and complete in three fitted green Van Cleef & Arpels cases.
This incredible suite is accompanied by three GIA reports:
GIA, 2015, report no. 2175007489: 25.50 carats, D colour, Flawless, excellent polish & symmetry
GIA, 2017, report no. 2185039078: 11.24 carats, D colour, Flawless, excellent polish & symmetry
GIA, 2017, report no. 2185816462: 11.13 carats, D colour, Flawless, excellent polish & symmetry
and a Van Cleef & Arpels Handling Guide, illustrating the possible transformations of the set.
Size/Dimensions
The complete necklace’s inner circumference is approximately 39.0 cm
The main set of earrings reaches 2.0 cm high
How much does it weigh?
Gross weight: 476.3 grams (1 pound)
Created by the illustrious Maison Française de Haute Joaillerie Van Cleef & Arpels, the journey from design to realisation of this piece of jewellery took a remarkable five thousand hours of craftsmanship. Its design harks back to the majestic necklaces worn by Maharajas in the early 20th century, blending extraordinary craftsmanship with regal splendour.
Now this is a Convertible
Celebrating their heritage and their savoir-faire, Van Cleef & Arpels created one of the most versatile piece of jewellery ever created, being transformable into seventeen pieces of jewellery: seven necklaces, three bracelets, one brooch, and four pairs of earrings.
RARE 20 CARAT UNMOUNTED KASHMIR SAPPHIRE
A rare 20.18 carat Kashmir no heat cushion-shaped sapphire accompanied by an SSEF report, dated 2024, report no. 135421: 20.181 carats, Kashmir, no indications of heating, along with an Appendix Letter attesting to the rarity of this sapphire.
Also, a Gübelin report, also dated 2024, report no. 24010070: 20.18 carats, Kashmir, no indications of heating, with an Information Sheet on Unheated Sapphires, and accompanied by a Gemmological Profile.
The sapphire measures 15.50 x 15.11 x 8.82 mm.
Estimate: CHF 1,200,000 – CHF 1,700,000
EXCEPTIONAL COLOURED NATURAL PEARL
COLOURED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Seen below we have four (4) strands of graduated coloured natural salt-water pearls of various hues ranging approximately from 12.80 to 3.65 mm, with an “old-cut yellow diamond” and diamonds clasp, in silver and yellow gold. The outstanding necklace is accompanied by an SSEF report, dated 2024, report no. 141799, noting 274 natural pearls, saltwater, with no indications of artificial colour modification.
As noted in the auction catalogue, “certain waters and regions are known for producing specific types of oysters, which in turn create pearls with distinctive colours. Japan and China are renowned for their pearls with soft white to cream body colours, often featuring a subtle pink overtone, and South Sea pearls, found in Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines, are recognized for their silver or golden hues. In French Polynesia, the Pinctada Margaritifera oyster produces darker pearls in shades of dark grey, black, and brown, commonly referred to as “black” pearls.
“In the Gulf of Mexico, the Pternia Sterna oyster also yields pearls with bodycolours ranging from brown to gray and dark grey, though often highlighted by striking and intense interference colours like vibrant blues, violets, or greens, which enhance their rich and attractive appearance.”
This really is a magnificent necklace. Each strand is fully knotted, attesting to the fine quality of the pearls.
UNMOUNTED 11 CARAT D-COLOUR DIAMOND, POTENTIAL
This sale will be interesting to watch. – gr
Here we have an 11.44 carat long slender oval brilliant, potentially Internally Flawless with minor recutting/repolishing, of D color. It is estimated to sell for between CHF 300,000 – CHF 500,000.
The diamond is accompanied by a GIA report, dated 2024, report no. 2231421304: 11.44 carats, D colour, VVS1 clarity, potentially Internally Flawless, along with a working diagram.
Repolish To Attain I.F. and to Remove the Double 4s
The number 4 is pronounced “si” (死) in Chinese, which is the word for “death.” Chinese buildings often don’t have a fourth floor, and drivers avoid license plates ending in 4. It is certainly possible that this diamond would need to be recut, not only to achieve the Internally Flawless grade, but to get rid of the double 4s (11.44 cts.) – double death.
CARTIER MULTI-GEM ‘MYSTERY’ CLOCK
Estimate: CHF 180,000 – CHF 260,000
Round carved rock crystal dial, rubies and emeralds of various shapes, nephrite and rose quartz, mother-of-pearl plaque, cultured pearl, round diamonds, manual movement, 18k yellow gold (French marks), signed Cartier, and numbered.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS EMERALD, CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND ‘ZIP’ NECKLACE
Estimate: CHF 180,000 – CHF 260,000
Carved emeralds, emerald beads, round cultured pearls, round, pear and square-shaped diamonds, 18k white (rhodium plated) gold, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, VCA, maker’s mark (Péry et Fils), and numbered.
THE ‘ZIP’ NECKLACE, AN ICON BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
One of the most innovative jewels ever created, the Van Cleef & Arpels’ ‘Zip’ necklace is an iconic design. Legend has it that during the 1930s the Duchess of Windsor asked Renée Puissant, the creative director of the brand between 1926-1942 and daughter of Alfred Van Cleef & Esther Arpels, to create a jewelled zip fastener to wear with her evening gowns.
Although the patent for the design was registered in 1938, it was not until 1951 that Van Cleef & Arpels presented the first ‘Zip’ necklace. The Zip Collection still pays homage to the world of fashion today, recreating zippers adorned with filigree, precious stones, and ingenious mechanisms.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND ‘ÉTOILE DU NORD’ CLIP-BROOCH
Estimate: CHF 60,000 – CHF 80,000
Featuring a central cushion-shaped sapphire of 9.37 carats, surrounded by round sapphires and diamonds, in 18k yellow gold and platinum (French marks), from the 1980s, signed Van Cleef & Arpels Int., maker’s mark, and numbered.
Acquired at Van Cleef & Arpels in 1987.
Accompanied by a Gübelin report, 2024, no. 24100035: 9.37 carats, Sri Lanka (Ceylon), no indications of heating.
This auction has so many wonderful pieces … including a beautiful VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SET OF MULTI-GEM JEWELLERY comprising a necklace and a pair of earrings. The necklace features large amethyst and onyx beads, round purple, pink sapphires and diamonds, cabochon black spinels; earrings to match with amethyst beads, round pink sapphires and diamonds.
Necklace and earrings mounted in 18k yellow gold (French marks), signed Van Cleef & Arpels, and numbered.
We have noticed lots of emeralds, rubies, and blue sapphires as well in this auction. Quite a wonderful selection.
And we shall close with yet another VCA…. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SPINEL AND DIAMOND FLOWER BROOCH
Estimate: CHF 45,000 – CHF 70,000
Black, red and pink spinels, round diamonds, 18k rose, white and yellow gold (French mark), signed Van Cleef & Arpels and VCA, and numbered.
This lot is a unique Van Cleef & Arpels jewel from the High Jewellery Collection.
Tap here to visit the entire catalogue – Enjoy the Auction!
