Boucheron High Jewellery: Dripping with Confidence (and Diamonds)
We found this wonderful feature about Boucheron’s High Jewelry collection, Or Bleu (blue gold), written by Kristen Shirley with quotes from Grant Mobley at Only Natural Diamonds, and from Frank Everett, vice chairman of jewellery Americas at Sotheby’s.
The collection is stunning and the videos from Boucheron definitely inspire design.
by KRISTEN SHIRLEY –
The Malaysian Reserve Magazine –
SINCE its founding in 1858, Boucheron has operated in the lofty realm of the world’s most prestigious jewellers, but the Parisian house hasn’t achieved the mass commercial presence in the US of a Bulgari, Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels.
That’s beginning to change. After a decade of expansion in Asia, Boucheron opened its first boutique in New York this September, followed in the next few years by shops in Beverly Hills, Las Vegas and Miami.
The growing footprint reflects the brand’s success: In 2024’s first-quarter revenue report by parent group Kering SA, Boucheron was one of the few houses on the rise, growing by double digits.
Why is Boucheron so hot as luxury softens across the board? Customers of fine jewellery have begun to look outside iconic items such as Van Cleef & Arpels’ Alham- bra line and Cartier’s Love bracelets, designs that are so beloved they’ve become ubiquitous — and imitated.
Now, shoppers are looking for styles that feel more under the radar.
Boucheron offers plenty of those, largely with its daring high jewellery collections, which look unlike anything that’s come to market, said Grant Mobley of Only Natural Diamonds magazine: “The consumers currently driving the luxury market are increasingly drawn to distinctive, timeless pieces from storied brands, and Boucheron stands out.”
Its creations have captured the attention of this ultrahigh-net-worth audience, which “values style and craftsmanship over conspicuous designs that are often faked”.
Each year, the maison presents two high jewellery collections under creative director Claire Choisne. In each, the pieces are one-of-a-kind and usually priced upon request.
Histoire de Style in January revisits Boucheron’s legacy of jewels set in traditional designs, whereas its Carte Blanche collections in July are more avant-garde, using materials and techniques that can be described as out of this world: In a 2020 necklace, Choisne used an aerogel that insulates NASA’s Mars rover.
These masterpieces can be massive in scale and juxtapose the finest rare gemstones with more humble materials such as rock crystal (clear quartz), which is a signature of the maison. The latest collection, Or Bleu (blue gold), explores the swirling world of water with Iceland’s extraordinary landscape as inspiration.
One of the most inventive examples is a 148cm (58 inch) diamond necklace that falls almost to the knees to represent a flowing waterfall. Another, crafted from circles of rock crystal set with diamonds, mimics drops of water rippling across a lake. A curling diamond-set ear cuff simulates crashing waves.
“It’s pretty spectacular in terms of not just the creativity of the design, but how did they make it?” said Frank Everett, vice chairman of jewellery Americas at Sotheby’s. “How do you construct that piece and marry all those diamonds with rock crystal?”
The pictured Iceberg necklace was inspired by Fellsfjara, a black sand beach covered in pieces of icebergs that washed ashore; Boucheron’s artisans spent 2,000 hours merging carved rock crystal and diamonds to build it.
Everett said that despite their wild appearances — and no-doubt wild prices — these jewels “are worn and enjoyed. One of the great things with a one-off piece is that you only need one person to love it”. — Bloomberg [Why Boucheron Is Taking US Luxury Jewelry Market …]
From Bucheron
Claire Choisne dedicates her new Carte Blanche collection to water – a vital and precious resource. She was inspired by the waters of Iceland – strong, powerful raw. To emulate the color, texture, rhythm, reflection and even transparency of water, the Maison has once again pushed the limits of creativity. Boucheron has created 26 High Jewelry creations that pay homage to water and whose beauty is encapsulated for all eternity.
Dripping with Diamonds
When Claire Choisne stood before this waterfall, she saw a necklace coursing down the body.
A 148 cm creation in white gold and diamonds, which is the longest ever made by the Boucheron workshops. “Cascade” offers even more surprises by transforming into a shorter necklace, from which a pair of earrings can be detached. To stay true to the inspiration, the Boucheron workshops have crafted an extremely delicate piece. A real challenge of precision and patience with these unusual dimensions. 1816 diamonds of different sizes were set on the Cascade. The meticulous mesh work gives the piece its extreme suppleness and adds to its striking realism.
Necklace set with pavé diamonds, in white gold. Necklace made in the tradition of Boucheron multi-wear – 3,000 hours of work
The Ripple Effect
A drop falls and shatters the water’s fragile balance. It was this very moment that inspired the “Ondes” jewelry set. To capture this organic movement, the Boucheron studio first simulated it on the computer using 3D software, which then determined the volumes of a necklace and two rings.
Rock Crystal – of Course!
Claire Choisne chose sculpted and polished rock crystal. These pieces are characterized by both their finesse and the delicacy of their undulating movement. There’s no place for metal in this necklace, which is designed as a second skin. A real challenge for the craftsmen who, in addition to the sculptural work, were also instructed to follow the curves of the bust. And because transparency never compromises, 4,542 round diamonds in this creation have an invisible setting beneath the rock crystal. At the center of each wave, a diamond is set in a closed setting.
Necklace set with rock crystal and 4542 pavé diamonds, in white gold – 5050 hours of work
Rings set with rock crystal and pavé diamonds, in white gold – 610 hours of work
Obsidian – Natural Glass
Far from being crystal-clear, Iceland’s dark waters reveal a hostile nature. Claire Choisne has used its intense color to design two pieces, a bracelet and a ring fittingly named “Eau d’Encre”.
The Maison has chosen obsidian, a volcanic stone notable for the beauty of its deep black color. The bracelet is composed of two perfectly identical obsidian blocks. The material was sculpted with the help of a 3D printer to simulate waves and reproduce the movement of water as closely as possible. When it came to the ring set with a 2.01 carat D color, VVS1 clarity, pear-shaped diamond, it was the very choice of obsidian that guided its design. To contrast with the blackness of this rock, a snow setting has been used on both pieces. A subtle nod to the foamy waves on black sand beaches.
Bracelet set with obsidian and pavé diamonds, in titanium and white gold – 355 hours of work
The foam of the waves on the black sand. This stark opposition inspired Claire Choisne to create a series of pieces that reproduce the colors, contrasts and material textures of the shore. With “Sable Noir”, the Maison has succeeded in capturing this black sand in three creations.
This is not the first time Boucheron has introduced sand into a High Jewelry collection. In 2015, sand from the Thar Desert was encapsulated in a necklace. This year, black sand is agglomerated using a 3D printing technique that binds the grains together using a polymer applied in very thin layers, until the desired shape is obtained. This technique, traditionally used in the automotive and aeronautics industries, produces a highly resistant material that reveals the iridescent texture of the sand. On the necklace, the clasp is discreetly placed behind the two diamond pieces. The earrings are made using the same 3D printing technique, in the shape of drops.
As the centerpiece of this triptych, the cuff has no metal edges, giving the impression that it was sculpted from black sand. An organic snow setting adds extraordinary brilliance to this creation.
Black sand and pavé diamond necklace in white gold – 620 hours of work
Rock Crystal and Diamonds
Ice blocks shimmer on a black sand beach, reflecting the sun’s rays like diamonds. “Diamond Beach” is the place that inspired this necklace and pair of earrings, reproducing the play of light and transparency of these fleeting sculptures.
Sandblasting the rock crystal gives it the same frosty effect as icebergs washed up on the sand. On these pieces, Boucheron craftsmen have created a treasure trove of trompe-l’œil effects. Instead of the usual white gold claws that encircle the diamonds, the crystal has been shaped to accommodate the stones directly within it. Likewise, it’s impossible to distinguish with the naked eye the intricate mesh that binds the elements together, so much so that the whole piece seems to levitate on the neck. And some of the drops even contain a precious secret: glittering pavé diamonds underneath the rock crystal, which multiply the sparkle with a magnifying glass effect.
Necklace set with rock crystal and pavé diamonds, in white gold – 2,000 hours of work
Waves of Inspiration
The sea rages. Both a brooch and a piece of hair jewelry, this “Wave” pays tribute to the power of water. It also echoes a 1910 tiara from the Boucheron archives, which was inspired by Hokusai’s The Great Wave of Kanagawa.
The fruit of traditional High Jewelry expertise, this piece captures all the organic poetry of the original design. Each detail is shaped by hand using lost-wax casting, which involves sculpting the desired volume in wax. A mold is then made to obtain the negative wax impression, into which the gold is poured to follow the shape of the wave. Finally, 851 round diamonds are set, for a total of 20 carats.
Earrings made in the tradition of Boucheron multi-wear – 650 hours of work
Water rushing down rocky slopes. The “Flots” brooch was inspired by this landscape. It also pays tribute to another piece from the Boucheron archives, a comb dating back to 1901.
As if suspended from a thread, the diamonds imitate waterfalls, thanks to independent moving nets that undulate when they are worn. To ensure that the diamonds realistically mimic the movement of water, the gem-setters used chip settings, making the metal around the stones disappear. This setting is rarely used today, but it is sometimes found on antique jewelry such as the 1901 archive piece. Finally, alternating round diamonds of different sizes adds to the realism of the piece.
Pavé diamond tie necklace, in white gold – 500 hours of work
To capture this transitional state of water, Claire Choisne has created “Givre”, a new type of jewelry set that reproduces the movement of stalactites on the body.
A headpiece, an earring, shoulder jewelry and a ring follow one another in a movement dictated by gravity. Here again, the metal is discreet, giving way to precious elements such as pearls, mother-of-pearl and diamonds. No fewer than 691 pearls were required to create these pieces. This was a real challenge for the Stones department, which set out to find a batch of perfectly homogeneous colors and varied dimensions, in order to remain faithful to the Studio’s design. This ring also has movement, with a plate that rotates thanks to a ball system, allowing the elements to always follow the correct orientation, like ice melting.
Akoya pearl headpiece, pavé diamonds and mother-of-pearl, in white gold
Akoya pearl earring, pavé diamonds and mother-of-pearl, in white gold
Akoya pearl shoulder jewelry, pavé diamonds and mother-of-pearl, in white gold
Akoya pearl ring, pavé diamonds and mother-of-pearl, in white gold
2,610 hours of work
The impetuous force of Icelandic waters leaves its mark on the body. True to life, the two “Eau Vive” shoulder brooches seem to take everything in their stride.
Every detail of these perfectly symmetrical pieces is the result of a fusion of cutting-edge technology and High Jewelry expertise. Created using 3D software, the two brooches have been sculpted from a single rectangular block of aluminum to match the actual movement of the waves. This material, chosen for its lightness (8 times lighter than gold), gives the set unexpected comfort. Immersing these waves in a palladium bath intensified their brilliance even further, while the diamonds have been meticulously set on this wave, like a ray of sunshine. A system of powerful magnets enables the pins to be attached with great freedom, while still remaining discreet.
Pavé diamond shoulder brooches, in palladium-finish aluminum – 980 hours of work
For “Or Bleu”, it all began in Iceland. Discover how the beauty of these raw landscapes inspired Claire Choisne’s Carte Blanche collection.
Tap Here to see behind the scenes ideas!
Tap here to read the review in the Malaysian Reserve Magazine!
Tap here to go directly to Boucheron’s High Jewelry!
