Sotheby’s in Geneva: The Allnatt! Magnificent & Noble Jewels
May 14th, Geneva
“Geneva will be fizzing with excitement,” exclaims Sotheby’s. The Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction on May 14th will highlight pieces “from private collections of signed jewels from across the twentieth century.”
“The Magnificent Jewels sale will be completed by an exceptional group of Cartier animal jewels from several private collections, as well as exquisite diamonds and coloured stones, many with noble and royal provenance.”
A 3.03 carat Fancy Intense Blue pear shape diamond ring, a 17 carat cushion shape Kashmir Sapphire ring, a 30 carat square emerald cut emerald necklace, a Carvin French 35 carat red spinel ring, and more!
The parade of beautiful gems and jewels is extraordinary, and it starts with the main event – the Allnatt Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond!
FORMERLY IN THE COLLECTION OF MAJOR ALFRED ERNEST ALLNATT
Cartier
The Allnatt, Historical and Highly Significant Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond and diamond brooch, circa 1952
Estimate: 5,600,000 – 6,500,000 CHF
Designed as a flowerhead set with a round-cornered square brilliant-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 101.29 carats, the petals and leaf pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, accented by brilliant-cut, square and baguette diamonds, unsigned, maker’s mark, fitted case stamped Cartier.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 11340019, dated 28 October 2010, and report no. 11340019, dated 22 November 2000, each stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Colour, VS2 Clarity; together GIA letters dated 17 November 2010 and 27 November 2000, a GIA Monograph, reported data for GIA diamond grading report no. 8693682, dated 12 April 1995, The Allnatt Diamond – A True Collector’s Gem by Stephen C. Hofer Fancy Colour Consultants, The Allnatt Diamond Media Clippings and an edition of Famous Diamonds by Ian Balfour.
The Allnatt Diamond
The Allnatt diamond is one of the world’s most significant and historical Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds, celebrated for its richly saturated golden colour, enchanting older cutting style and elegant 1950s mounting by Cartier.
South African Diamond Deposits
The discovery of the 10.73-carat Eureka yellow diamond in 1867 kickstarted the South African diamond rush. In the ensuing decades, scores of immigrants tried their luck in the Cape Colony, effectively creating the modern diamond mining industry. Because the South African deposits are rich in nitrogen, they have yielded the vast majority of the world’s most important yellow diamonds including the 545.65-carat Golden Jubilee, the 205.07-carat Red Cross and the 128.54-carat Tiffany Yellow Diamond. In generations past, the term ‘Cape diamond’ designated light yellow tinted diamonds towards the tail-end of the D to Z range in reference to the vast quantity of yellow diamonds found in South Africa.
The Allnatt diamond was most likely produced by the South African De Beers Millennium Mine. Though its exact date of discovery is unrecorded, the diamond’s older cutting style suggests it was fashioned in the late 19th or early 20th century. As such, the manufacture likely predates the use of sawing so the Allnatt’s shape must mirror the outline of the original rough.
Major Alfred Ernest Allnatt
The diamond is named for its first documented owner, Major Alfred Ernest Allnatt, a renowned British sportsman, racehorse owner, philanthropist, collector and patron of the arts.
Mounting by Cartier
In the early 1950s, Major Allnatt purchased the yellow diamond, then still weighing 102.07 carats. He proceeded to have it mounted as a brooch by Cartier. Cartier’s original design drawing is dated to 1952, whereas the invoice for the completed brooch is dated 24 September 1953. The Allnatt forms the heart of a flowerhead composed of openwork, brilliant-cut diamond-set petals enhanced with baguette diamonds.
The design is highly reminiscent of the mounting Cartier created in 1952-1953 for another legendary coloured diamond, commissioned by an even more prestigious British client: Queen Elizabeth II’s Williamson Pink Diamond. The future Queen received this diamond as a wedding present in 1947 and subsequently had it mounted by Cartier as a brooch which she wore throughout her long and prosperous reign.
Sale and Repolish
The Allnatt Diamond was last offered at auction in Geneva in May 1996 where it achieved the outstanding result of $3,043,496 USD. Its property designation read ‘Property of a Lady’. At the time, the diamond weighed 102.07 carats and was graded Fancy Intense Yellow by the GIA. Subsequently, the stone was carefully repolished to its current 101.29 carats. This minimal loss in weight, while having negligible impact on the diamond’s outline and cutting style, bought the color up to Fancy Vivid Yellow Colour.
The Allnatt was certified by the Gemmological Institute of America in 2000 and again in 2010, each time being awarded a special letter. The GIA found no internal graining, colour zoning or fluorescence present in the stone. Like the majority of South African yellow diamonds, it was revealed to be type Ia. The GIA introduced their trademarked Monograph in 2009, a special distinction awarded to only the most remarkable of diamonds. In 2010, the Allnatt became one of the first diamonds ever to receive this honour.
The Splendor of Diamonds
The Smithsonian Museum of National History in Washington DC exhibited the Allnatt Diamond in the summer of 2003 as part of the highly prestigious exhibition ‘The Splendor of Diamonds’ which reunited seven celebrated diamonds, each representing the best specimen of their respective colours. The Allnatt was joined by the 203.04-carat D Colour De Beers Millennium Star, the 5.11-carat Fancy Red Moussaieff Red, the Harry Winston 5.54-carat Fancy Vivid Orange Pumpkin Diamond, the 59.60-carat Fancy Vivid Pink Steinmetz Pink, the 27.64-carat Fancy Vivid Blue Heart of Eternity and the 5.51-carat Fancy Deep Blue-Green Ocean Dream.
James Taffin de Givenchy for Sotheby’s Diamonds
Important Fancy Intense Blue diamond and diamond ring, ‘Duet’, circa 2011
Estimate: 730,000 – 1,100,000 CHF
Of toi et moi design, set with a pear-shaped fancy intense blue diamond weighing 3.03 carats and a similarly shaped diamond weighing 2.82 carats, the mount pavé-set throughout with brilliant-cut diamonds, size 53, signed Sotheby’s Diamonds by JdG, numbered, maker’s mark.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 5111671097, dated 1 April 2019, stating that the diamond weighing 3.03 carats is Fancy Intense Blue, Natural Colour, I1 Clarity; and no. 5121747081, dated 25 March 2019, stating that the diamond weighing 2.82 carats is D Colour, VVS1 Clarity, together with a working diagram stating that the diamond may be Internally Flawless after minor repolishing.
Highly Important Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond ring
Estimate: 500,000 – 800,000 CHF
Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 17.29 carats between triangular diamond shoulders, size 53.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 137358, dated 10 April 2024, and Gübelin report no. 24040071, dated 25 April 2024, each stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating, each together with an appendix letter, SSEF stating ‘royal blue’ colour.
Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond ring
Estimate: 400,000 – 500,000 CHF
Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 6.59 carats between triangular diamond shoulders to a bifurcated mount, size 45, sizing beads.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 126041, dated 25 November 2022, Gübelin report no. 24030015, dated 15 March 2024, and GRS report no. GRS2022-127054, dated 6 December 2022, each stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating; the GRS report with Platinum Rarity Award no. 4004 and an appendix letter.
Emerald and Diamond necklace
Estimate: 350,000 – 550,000 CHF
Featuring a step-cut emerald weighing 30.24 carats within a border of marquise-shaped diamonds, to a necklace embellished with pear-shaped emeralds and brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 420mm, maker’s mark.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 137288, dated 2 April 2024, and Gübelin report no. 24040057, dated 25 April 2024, each stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, SSEF stating a moderate amount of oil in fissures, Gübelin stating a minor amount of oil in fissures.
Carvin French Spinel and Diamond ring
Important spinel and diamond ring
Estimate: 320,000 – 500,000 CHF
Set with a cushion-shaped spinel weighing 35.25 carats between half-moon diamond shoulders, size 53, unsigned, maker’s mark for Carvin French.
Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 53617, dated 19 February 2013, stating that the spinel is of Tanzanian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement; together with two gemmological reports.
Cartier
Superb diamond devant-de-corsage, circa 1910
Estimate: 200,000 – 400,000 CHF
The partially articulated, openwork bow composed of laurel leaves, supporting flexible tassels, millegrain-set throughout with circular-cut diamonds, enhanced with rose diamonds, accented by marquise- and pear-shaped diamonds, unsigned, two small diamonds deficient.
Accompanied by Cartier certificate of authenticity no. GE2009-44, dated 15 May 2009, stating that the jewel was created by Cartier New York circa 1910; together with a copy of a Cartier insurance valuation, dated 1990.
Natural pearl and diamond necklace
Estimate: 150,000 – 200,000 CHF
Composed of five graduated strands of round to roundish and oval to slightly button-shaped natural pearls measuring approximately from 4.25 to 9.00mm, the clasp set with brilliant-cut diamonds, shortest length approximately 510mm.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 121464, dated 26 April 2022, stating that the five hundred and forty-two pearls were found to be natural, saltwater.
Lacloche Frères
Rare and Important pair of gem set and diamond pendent earrings, circa 1925
Estimate: 150,000 – 250,000 CHF
Each featuring an Egyptian figure in a characteristic stance, set with buff-top rubies, emeralds and onyx to circular- and single-cut diamonds, supporting a fringe similarly-set, screwback fittings, signed Lacloche Frères Paris, French assay marks for platinum.
Egyptomania
In the 1920s, the vocabulary of luxurious jewellery was largely spelled-out in diamonds and precious colored stones, and the shapes, forms and iconography were thematically influenced to a great degree by various ancient cultures. Vogue magazine published a number of features in 1921 on fashions in ancient Egypt, Greece and the Near East.
The discovery of King Tutankhamen’s tomb in 1922 inflamed a fascination with the land of the pharaohs that spread across the globe, and jewellers turned to symbols from ancient Egyptian art as a source of inspiration for their creations of glittering statement pieces. It is a period when trends in fashion and jewelry were inextricably linked. Bias cuts and tunic shapes proliferated. Couturiers such as Doucet, Lanvin and Vionnet created evening dresses which perfectly complemented the latest fashions in jewels such as elongated pendant earrings and panel bracelets. Scarabs, sphinxes, pharaohs, scribes, musicians and archers along with gods in their animal forms such as Anubis and Nekhbet, were often accented by hieroglyphics in undecipherable narratives using diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds and onyx to tell the story.
Jean-Marcel Humbert, who was curator at the Musée du Louvre during the 1994 exhibition titled Egyptomania accurately observed that “Egyptomania” is more than a simple mania for Egypt. It is not enough to copy Egyptian forms, artists must “re-create” them in the cauldron of their own sensibility and in the context of their times.” This was surely the goal of Lacloche and they successfully achieved that goal. In 1925, at the Paris Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs, Lacloche exhibited at the Grand Palais and was awarded a Grand Prix.
The production of Art Deco Egyptian-themed jewellery was short-lived, lasting until the onset of the 1930s, and it is important to note that these Egyptian-themed examples were fewer in number compared with other types of jewels created during the same period. The rare pair of earrings by Lacloche offered here can be considered among the finest examples of Egyptian revival Art Deco jewellery.
Tap here for the entire Sotheby’s auction catalogue of Magnificent & Noble Jewels!
