Sotheby’s Geneva: Luxury Week’s Magnificent Jewels. Blue Lagoon Pulled!
Gary Roskin
Roskin Gem News Report
Let’s Get Right to the Mystery: The Blue Lagoon Pulled
It’s Luxury Week in Geneva. Sotheby’s, Christie’s, GemGenève, and more. This is the week that can make or break the season.
But what happens if your best piece, your signature piece is not available?
This is what happened at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels Geneva Luxury Week Auction.
The Auction Business
One of the biggest challenges of promoting an important auction is being able to hold on to the featured attraction, the cover jewel, holding on to it just long enough for it to actually go on sale.
Case in point, the Blue Lagoon, a 93.94 carat blue paraiba Mozambique cuprian tourmaline, cut by the world’s renowned gem artist Victor Tuzlukov, and the featured item for the Sotheby’s Geneva Luxury Week auction. (See the banner above.) But by the time the Sotheby’s evening auction came around, the necklace was no longer listed.
What happened? We’ve been hearing about this necklace for weeks, maybe months. It was on every Sotheby’s promo material. Press releases were being published…
None of that matters. It was not being sold.
Why?
Unfortunately for those of us who are curious, the reason why it was pulled will remain a public mystery. This is the auction business. There are numerous scenarios that could happen when any auction item is put up for auction and then removed. For example, a prominent buyer would like to keep the item from going to auction and asks for a private sale, or a change of heart and the item is kept in the family, or the economy just doesn’t feel right to the seller and they will wait for a certain period of time and bring it back to auction when they feel the economy is better. The real reason the Blue Lagoon was pulled will remain an unanswered question.
Even Tuzlukov was surprised. Attending Geneva’s Luxury week, Victor Tuzlukov visited Sotheby’s several times, had pictures taken with the necklace, and was anticipating an inaugural auction of his work. Unfortunately, he will have to wait for another day, but in the meantime, we will share some images of the anticipation.
All images provided by Victor Tuzlukov.
The Auction Goes On
Even though the featured main attraction was missing, the Magnificent Jewels auction at Sotheby’s went on to make profitable sales.
There are so many wonderful pieces in this auction that we strongly urge you to continue on using the link below to continue viewing the entire auction entries. – gr
Some of the auction highlights are featured here:
Fancy Intense Green Diamond
Rare and Highly Important Fancy Intense Green, coloured diamond and diamond ring
NOTE: Natural Green diamonds, especially those that make Fancy, Fancy Intense, and Fancy Vivid, are not only rare, they can be extremely difficult to identify as “natural.” Color enhancement signatures of treated green diamonds can look exactly like Mother Nature’s signature. This can make it virtually impossible with some green diamonds for the professional gem labs to identify whether or not the green color is natural or treated. Fortunately for this diamond, the lab was able to identify its green color as natural. – gr
Estimate 1,180,000 – 2,090,000 CHF
Sold 1,633,000 CHF [ 369,000 CHF/ct. ]
Set with a cut-cornered square modified brilliant-cut fancy intense green diamond weighing 4.42 carats, flanked by cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut diamonds, the gallery pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and diamonds of pink tint, size 50, maker’s mark.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 1102900161, stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Green, Natural Colour, VS2 clarity.
Kashmir Sapphire (no heat)
Kashmir Sapphire and diamond ring
NOTE: Not very large, but BIG per carat price! 58,153 CHF/ct. – gr
Estimate 350,000 – 550,000 CHF
Sold 393,700 CHF [ 58,000 CHF/ct. ]
Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 6.77 carats, the shoulders accented by single-cut diamonds, size 54, sizing band.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 122979, stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
Big Blue – 50 carat Ceylon Sapphire
Ceylon Sapphire and diamond brooch/pendant
NOTE: Selling for over 600,000 CHF over the high estimate! -gr
Estimate 230,000 – 320,000 CHF
Sold 1,016,000 CHF [ 19,500 CHF/ct. ]
Ceylon Sapphire did well at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction!
The cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 51.76 carats within a surround of baguette diamonds, maker’s mark for Espezel, French assay marks for platinum and gold, fitting for wear as a pendant.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 132643, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating.
63 Carat Colombian Emerald
Emerald and diamond brooch/pendant – minor enhancement noted
Note: This piece caught our attention, not only because it surpassed its high estimate by 400,000 CHF! but by its jewelry design. The emerald is rather large, and because the cutter, in saving weight, made the corners uneven, the designer attempted to hide the off symmetry by turning the gem on its corners. – gr
Estimate 90,000 – 140,000 CHF
Sold 571,500 CHF [ 9,000 CHF/ct. ]
The detachable pendant featuring a step-cut emerald weighing 63.29 carats within a border of brilliant-cut diamonds, the loop accented with baguette diamonds, the surmount set with pear- and marquise-shaped, brilliant-cut, baguette and tapered baguette diamonds.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 17110171, dated 29 November 2017, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures.
Van Cleef & Arpels Invisible Set Ruby Brooch
Ruby and diamond brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1960s
NOTE: We are always impressed by fine quality invisible set jewels. The workmanship, the gemstone quality, and the design, all merge to make an important piece such as this.
Estimate 150,000 – 200,000 CHF
Sold 381,000 CHF
Designed as a flower head, the petals mystery-set with calibré-cut rubies, the stamen enhanced with brilliant-cut diamonds, partially signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, maker’s mark for Van Cleef & Arpels, partial French assay marks for gold, detachable later added diamond-set stem fitting, case stamped Van Cleef & Arpels.
Mouawad, Vivid Yellow
Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond ring, Mouawad
NOTE: “Fancy Vivid” is the ultimate color grade for most Fancy Color Diamonds (with few exceptions). While it is still a range of saturation – there are some Vivid diamonds that are more Vivid than others – once they reach the Vivid range, they are quite spectacular, as is evidenced here!
Estimate 320,000 – 410,000 CHF
Sold 596,900 CHF [ 73,000 CHF/ct. ]
Set with a step-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 8.08 carats, the gallery and shoulders decorated with diamonds of yellow tint and brilliant-cut diamonds, size 6, signed Mouawad, numbered.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 5201519662, dated 23 August 2019, stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Colour, VS2 Clarity.
Marina B & Ceylon Sapphires (no heat)
Marina B was born into the illustrious Bulgari family. She branched out on her own, developing an instantly recognizable signature style incorporating daring colour combinations and sculptural volumes.
Another Ceylon Sapphire that did well at Sotheby’s!
Ceylon Sapphire and diamond ring, ‘Alpha Baguettes’
Marina B, circa 1986
NOTE: A design that appears so classic and clean, and yet one can imagine the challenge of matching and setting baguettes in this style. – gr
Estimate 20,000 – 40,000 CHF
Sold 88,900 CHF [ 11,500 CHF/ct. ]
Collet-set with a step-cut sapphire, approximately 7.40 – 7.70 carats, the mount decorated with baguette diamonds, size 49, signed Marina B, numbered, maker’s marks for Marina B and Pierre Brun, French assay mark for gold.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 132949, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating.
Colombian Emerald (minor enhancement noted)
Colombian Emerald and diamond ring
Estimate 90,000 – 140,000 CHF
Sold 190,500 CHF [ 11,000 CHF/ct. ]
Claw-set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.78 carats between bullet-shaped diamond shoulders, size 53.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 130342, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a minor amount of oil in fissures.
Natural Matching Heart Shape Sapphires
Sapphire and diamond rivière necklace, Kessaris*
NOTE: A professional gemlab identification and disclosure report did NOT accompany this necklace.
Estimate 140,000 – 240,000 CHF
Sold 254,000 CHF
Composed of a graduated line of alternating heart-shaped sapphires and diamonds, length approximately 410mm, unsigned, numbered, maker’s marks for *Kessaris, case stamped *Kessaris. (Kessaris is a high-end retail jewelry firm located in Greece.)
Sapphires estimated to weigh a total of approximately 60.00 – 68.00 carats, slightly violetish blue of medium strong saturation, well-matched for colour, slightly to moderately included, light colour zoning, needles and faint fingerprints particularly to the largest central sapphire, minor chips and nicks, abrasions to the facet edges
Bulgari & 20 carat Ceylon Sapphire (no heat)
Sapphire and diamond ring
Estimate 110,000 – 165,000 CHF
Sold 228,600 CHF [ 11,000 CHF/ct. ]
Claw-set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 20.01 carats, the bombé mount pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, accented with baguette diamonds, size 51, signed Bulgari.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 22022063, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating.
David Webb, Rock Crystal
Rock crystal, emerald, enamel and diamond bangle, ‘Chimera’, David Webb, circa 1990
NOTE: We are always drawn to rock crystal quartz, intrigued by jewelers who use what others may refer to as “unimportant,” “semi-precious,” or “common” gem materials and create a masterpiece such as this.
Estimate 50,000 – 80,000 CHF
Sold 57,150 CHF
Each terminal composed of a carved rock crystal chimera head, the eyes collet-set with cabochon emeralds, accented with pavé-set brilliant-cut diamonds, the sides of fluted rock crystal alternating with black enamel, inner circumference approximately 150mm, signed David Webb.
Accompanied by a copy of the original David Webb invoice, dated 10 September 1990.
René Lalique, Enamel work
NOTE: Simple and elegant, Lalique’s glass work in combination with gem materials is always worth a look!
Estimate 40,000 – 60,000 CHF
Sold 44,450 CHF
Aquamarine, enamel and diamond brooch, René Lalique, circa 1900 and later
Designed as two intertwined sheaves of wheat applied with enamel and plique-à-jour enamel, centering on a step-cut aquamarine, enhanced with circular-cut and rose diamonds, signed Lalique.
12 carat Ceylon Sapphire
Ceylon Sapphire and diamond ring
Estimate 70,000 – 90,000 CHF
Sold 292,100 CH [ 23,000 CHF/ct. ]
Set with a step-cut sapphire weighing 12.30 carats, between shield-shaped diamond shoulders, size 521/2.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 23062033, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating, stating ‘royal blue’ colour.
Stamped Pt 950 and PLAT for platinum. Sapphire slightly violetish-blue of medium strong saturation, very slightly included, faint silk seen under 10x magnification, minor abrasions to the facet edges. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 1.80 carats, on average G-H colour, VS clarity as gauged and graded in the mount.
Van Cleef & Arpels Invisible Set Sapphire Brooch
Sapphire and diamond brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels
NOTE: Isn’t it interesting that the invisible set sapphire brooches tend to get less attention than ruby brooches.
Estimate 75,000 – 110,000 CHF
Sold 190,500 CHF
Designed as a flower head, the petals mystery-set with calibré-cut sapphires, the stamen set with brilliant-cut, pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered.
Brazilian Paraíba Tourmaline
Paraíba tourmaline and diamond ring
NOTE: Even with heating (which is fairly common) and minor amounts of filler (which is becoming more and more common), its value is still held high. – gr
Estimate 350,000 – 550,000 CHF
Sold 381,000 CHF [32,000 CHF/ct.]
Claw-set with a Paraíba tourmaline weighing 12.02 carats, the shoulders enhanced with marquise- and pear-shaped diamonds, size 52.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 128815, stating that the tourmaline is of Brazilian origin, with indications of heating, with a minor amount of filler in fissures; together with a gemmological report.
“The Blue Lagoon”
The one that never made it to auction …
‘The Blue Lagoon’, Rare and Highly Important Paraíba tourmaline and diamond necklace, Adler
“This lot has been withdrawn” – says the Sotheby’s website.
Set with an oval paraíba Mozambique tourmaline weighing 93.94 carats, the necklace of lariat design composed of marquise-, pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 500mm, signed Adler.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 124373, stating that the paraíba tourmaline is of Mozambique origin, the colour is considered stable, together with an appendix letter; further accompanied by two gemmological reports and six GIA reports.
‘The described gemstone exhibits an impressive size and weight of 93.94 carats, combined with an attractive blue colour and excellent purity. The few inclusion features found by microscopic examination and the analysed properties are consistent with those found in copper-bearing tourmalines from the Alto Ligonha district in Northern Mozambique.’ Excerpt from the SSEF appendix letter. follow for more updates Roskingemnewsreport
Gem cut by world renowned artist, Victor Tuzlukov.
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